Robbie

White with the Circuit pack. I think having a white supra previously made the colour choise easier.

I ordered mine at the start of December but I've got to wait 'til June, The test drive did it for meand I ordered it the next day. I'd previously test driven an alpine a110 and S version, the alfa Quatrifoglio and a mkv supra. The GR yaris was the most fun.

Yup, the engine was build but it gave out due to me putting cheap sparkplugs in and one disintegrated mdamaging a valve and the piston! It was running 1.4bar for the 10.66 run. Sadly I never got to turn up the boost. The manual I had was a bit notchy and I'm slow athe gear changes. The manual was a std engine. The best ET on that was 132 at santa [email protected] and 2bar of boost. Jspec cams Lots of torque though!

Here's a good thread from the Aquamist site about Meth, water injection and so on http://www.aquamist.co.uk/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1801 The flex option sounds good if you have the Syvecs installed. If you want to water injection your idea a of Direct port is still an option. The flex sytem wasn't an option for me when | put my direct port sytem in. When My car ran a Ethenol and petrol mix with direct port water, It ran superbly. really low egt's, no Det and 2 bar on road fuel. It was installed jan 2008 and is still going strong. It's been adjusted for 100% petrol and that's my default setting for the car in summer.

Hi, Could you give me price on the drive shafts and uk spec diff. I can collect thanks

HI, unfortunately the flashing is normal when you remove the trac fuse. I can't recall th other flashing though. Have you tried pressing the manu button on and off a few times to see if it goes off

I tend to use this company now for small to medium sized parcels: http://www.p4d.co.uk .It's a similar sort of setup by the look of it I've used them quite a few times and also to Japan (a classic piece of hi-fi that turned up intact!)

I assumed samurai20v was interested in the head, as he began with a query regarding the shims in the head For the cams DHL will do it for around 68 GBP

just been on the site and got these quotes:

Hi, without precise final weight/dimensions etc, I estimate shipping to cost around around 160 -190 gbp

Hi. I'd imagine the cost to be quite high as it weighs over 20kg's but I've no problems with posting abroad. The shims under the buckets is the same design as an RB head. The std 2jz head has a recessed bucked that holds a much larger(almost the same diameter as the bucket , shim , and therefore heavier slab of metal. Being above the bucket and directly against the cam it could therefore pop out under extreme high revs (in theory).

last time for a quick sell! The JUN cams are still for sale £450 The springs and retainers, I'll do for £125

I've cracked the casing open. The outer casing is made from a solid cast casing which does all the hard work. The inner part of the casing is a pressed metal shell about half a mm thick that seems to be pressed onto the outer section and held there by friction only. In order to remove it from the main casing I had to destroy it, breaking the seal with a hammer and an old screwdriver. There's no obvious clip but the main section has a small groove that holds a rubber seal to prevent the grease from escaping and a lip for the casing to press over. Perhaps toyota can get a new section, I dont' know! The most important thing is the inner section of the casing has no effect on the drive strength, it seems to act only as an attachment for the outer rubber boot.

Can the outer section of a drive shaft casing be dismantled? I've now got a spare driveshaft but don't know/ cant see how to dismantle the outboard section. Can it even be done?

Still wanted!