jagman

You check at your starter relay - use a voltmeter and measure - 1 pin has the voltage from fuse7.5 amp via ignition switch via neutral switch and via immobiliser if fitted - 12 volts when you turn the key = all good . the next pin on the starter relay mount has supply to the starter motor to signal it to crank - measure here for 12 volts ,all good then the problem is at the starter itself - the heavy duty lead to power it or its lost its earth -via the block itself - or the 12v crank supply - all good ? then your starter needs replacing - take it off and try it on the bench with a battery where you can see it engage and turn - hold on to it !!!! If you dont get 12v from switching the ignition switch - here is your problem - no neutral switch or fuse or ignition switch or immobiliser - so you check at the neutral switch on the gear lever side of the gearbox with a voltmeter or check the fuse is ok or the ignition switch is actually switching (they do fail)

you can check at the starter relay - one contact is voltage via 7.5 fuse - ignition switch , neutral switch to the contact , the next contact on the relay is voltage from large supply fuse to relay , this is the voltage supplied to the starter , you should feel the relay click , if clicking - then its likely the starter motor itself and it requires battering with a hammer in the first instance - then removing stripping cleaning fixing or a replacement - simple voltmeter tests needed

Looks like a simple receiver and key paired , probably based on an existing toyota set up . It was never a factory option so rather than alter the assembly line production it was offered as a dealer install - For ease of install it was made plug and play , splicing into the original door control unit connector . but it needed power ,so an extra power feed had to be spliced in somewhere . For ease of fit and no other mounting area ,they bunged it under the seat - the door locks will work exactly as the non keyless car . Apparently this is progress , from a key in the door ,to a fob , and now to just having a fob in your pocket and close to the car , it was all just too much effort previously ,and only £1000 to get the latest system fixed ...

It is indeed a big con , it's not a surprise to the Owners/directors that a company has gone bust , they have known for ages and done their plundering before hand , taking out bank loans , selling company offices and lease back deals , moving assets into untouchable places . If it was foreign owned (many are) the money disappears even faster !!! The owners/directors/senior management all move on to the next project with the loot What's left goes to the liquidators/administrators usually as a percentage deal of the total assets of the company (a percentage of what is at best confusing and calculated by the Liquidators) In short it is always the workers who lose out , either those who work for the company or supply the company , people who actually work always always lose ....those are the rules Sometimes companies linger on , often reducing wages as the "solution" , normally this means there is a pension fund that someone needs to work out how to plunder .....maybe another company can buy it out in total and "restructure" ie plunder some more . It's modern business , a conmans chess game ...

The UK market is small so a good test area for feedback , the reception is down to Toyota marketing and product design , Not enthusiasts , wishy washy part information and press releases that say very little , even now no one knows the specs , how can anyone get enthusiastic over something with so little information . As a £50 k car it’s competing with every sporty car including the GTR ,all the sports cars do , TT-RS is a fast as a Ferrari or faster ......Toyota....... go and compete !! Yesteryear is history.....make new history now

I guess they don’t know where to go with the car : so keep options open , use marketing for feedback , press and people and internet then finalise the spec . There is no point offering a car no one wants , and the competition is fierce in this area . The gap in time between the mkiv and this is large and no brand loyalty to fall back on ie updated tweeks to the original over the years. So something like say an Audi TT-RS has to be bettered : £50k , 400 hp , four wheel drive , magnetic shocks, good build quality and interior, some high tech in the mix - ultimately 0-60 circa 3.6 sec and 180 mph - 11 sec qtr mile Aftermarket stage 1/2/3 adds 100-200 hp and an ever growing list of hardware , tuning access for torque limiters , and engine control not hidden in algorithms to make life too hard . To be blunt is the new offering going to spank a 600hp Audi TT-RS and for how much ? Or Alfa Or Porsche or ... Who wants to come second??

Been there about three or four times : each time bar one had a similar outcome , filled in all the relevant paperwork , waited a couple of years and got paid enough for a value bag of crisps - the majority of the money was plundered by the administrators/liquidators. They had things like asset sales where they sold maybe £200k of stuff , got £10k and admin cost of £15 k ??!!? The one time it did not turn out like that , I had the foresight to remove some equipment before it all went Pete tong - very high value equipment that had a knock on cost to the company - I got in quick before the locks went on the doors and “held “ the equipment pending settlement of invoices - lots of threats but ultimately they paid me very quickly and got the stuff back !! Don’t know the legal details but possession rules - I had it and they wanted it . I know dozens of people that this has happened to , it’s common in my game and seldom works out if owed money - the game is rigged !

Also I have a flappy paddle steering wheel , and a laminova oil cooler , the box has a temp sensor in sump and the oil cooler an electric fan -the job lot for a conversion (box is also shimmed) (david P rebuild)

I do have a suprastick and display and an uprated autobox supra/soarer hybrid and oil cooler ,maybe a deal on your manual box and i would go manual -although i might break the R154

50:50 You have done well ! I would say around 10% actually are of any quality ,the majority of modern cars are electronic controlled and knowledge almost zero , not helped by plug in diagnostics for the brain dead or manufacturers hiding all useful information like state secrets . Attention to detail and basic practices are poor ,organisation even worse and the endless money chase can cause all sorts of wierd results ,lack of oversight and very poor training are at the root of the problem....

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/vb/attachments/f11/29868d1294073808-modifying-three-phase-motors-single-phase-use-steinmetz-connection.jpg Probably wired like this - any flash,bang , smoke and flames and I'm out ...... I did say probably ....

Sometimes a good old whack with a nylon hammer on contractors can free them up !!!

K1 is probably an on/off contactor and k2 and k3 are start and run contractors , k2/3 should have capacitors that they switch in (could be the two black boxes at the bottom - can't really see on my iPad ) - capacitor could be blown or a contactor not switching them in . Even if you get in a electrician - either the contactor or capacitor will need replacing (most likely defect) - depends on how much parts are and the electrician cost - if it pays to just fit new ones and see

Start capacitors are used on single phase and usually in the motor connection block on the motor -3 phase motors are self starting (if all three phases are there ) Is it single or 3 phase motor?