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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

xm 80

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  1. ;P i knew that something like this would come just wanted to protect the camshafts and stuff from debry since the valve covers are off all the time. But now on to the topic,are they really fine? btw i think the guys over at elmhurst toyota sent me a wrong water pump....does the TT pump have a seperate water outlet on the pump itself?
  2. Understood still the cam seals looked a lot worse and oil was leaking from there...just a bit.i replaced them,but i'm not sure if i have to push them in any further
  3. that's what i thought too......it sort of looks like the oil has come from the dizzy and made it's way all the way down the engine...IMO. i'll clean everything and have a better look at it afterwards.
  4. So here's a close up from the crank seal....thoughts?!?
  5. as you can see it's full of oil....btw I already cleaned the upper part of the head in this pic
  6. thanks guys for all the kind infos!!! to be honest those cam seals look pretty new to me.....strangly!?!?! if thought while everything is apart it would be a good time to change old seals out to prevent doing the whole procedure again. not sure about the crank seal at the moment....haven't had the time to get the crank sprocket off yet. one thing I noticed is that the engine was full of oil, in the front. this could be caused by the dizzy , because it's oily as shit, but not sure. I will try to post up some pics of the engine shortly
  7. I'm at the point now of changing the front crank and cam seals on my Na . I have absolutely no history about the services which where done to the car, so IMO it should be a good thing to change these. engine has around 130k Km (not sure about that since it was at one time converted to miles?!?! ). So I searched a bit around on how to (best) change the crank and cam seals.....but as I was reading more and more I also got more and more confused. some say you have to take off the cam caps to replace the cam seals, other don't do this...some use some sort of oil or lubricant to install them, others push them in dry. to be honest I have never done this before and I'm a bit careful with things like this, so any advice would be appreciated! as for the front crank seal, I read that it could be installed wrong/to far in.....has anyone a pic of a correct installed front crank seal as reference? thanks in advance for your help guys
  8. thanks guys soooooo much!!!!! i've been searching around the web and also came up with the carbon deposits.....make sense, since i found a lot of carbon/oil stuff in the intake manifold, all the way to the intake valves! @DNK: sorry i forgot to mention that it's a NA Supra. it's also strange....i found varies numbers of what is normal for a NA engine...but i guess it should be fine then @ider: i checked the gauge afterwards at work,....both the low and the high readings where correct!
  9. so i finally had some time to do a compression test on my engine....but i'm abolutly confused about the readings!?!?! here is what i was reading with the oil temp at around 80°C ("warm engine"): #1 225psi #2 220psi #3 227psi #4 223psi #5 220psi #6 220psi wasn't expecting this high readings at all, since i guessed that the head gasket was blown????!!!! as of shop manual these readings are way to high (new should be around 160psi IIRC). so my question is, what could cause this??? here are some things i noticed that might also indicate a trouble: - if i remove the PCV hose (intake side) from the intake and put my finger over the hole of the intake the idle rpm drops abouut 100-200 rpms -had some oil in the intake, not much, but it was visible to the eye also took a pic of the spark plugs...will post that later. since my dad own an endoscope i also gave it a try and had a closer look at the pistons...and they looked sort of "clean" to me??? they some darker patches (looked like rust...brownish) and some brighter spots....which looked like white or yellow-ish. any thoughts? car still idles a bit rough and have some misfiring (i would say), but this could be of another issue with the ignition timing (still have to check that too).
  10. Sure it's fairly easy the only thing u need is a puller for the clutch plate, not sure if u can do it without one. I did this a couple of months ago with my spare AC compressor....luckily for me the clutch plate was already off.
  11. some update here: so i bought a new TPS and IAC (planing to keep the car, so no reason not to change out some expensive parts IMO) installed the TB with the new components and well it got a bit better. so what it does now is cold start idles up to 2000rpm and then drops it very slowly over a long time to 1300rpm where it stays forever. so i took the car out for a quick spin and the car felt def. better then before, but still idles at around 1300 rpm all the time. i know u guys mentioned about getting another ECU, but Supras are pretty rare over here in Germany, yet to find a correct JDM ECU! I could prop. buy one from the UK, but than again i have to spent Money, just to try......well in the end i might have to,but for now i'm still trying several other things. what i noticed yesterday was that the IAC is "stuck" open at warm idle?!?!? i took the intake tube off and let the car run without it....same thing as before, idle rpm at 1300 and once i put something on the hole for the IAC the car stalls??? another funny thing is that even if i unplug the IAC the car stays at the same idle rpm (1300) should this not effect the cars idle? so i took my ohmmeter out and measured the pins on the IAC plug (harness side) while the car was running and had IMO some strange readings.... all i got was around 78 ohms constant on all pins if i used B1 and S1-S4 . If i used the B2 pin and S1-S4 i didn't get any Signal/ohms ???? that's as far as i got last night. i'm just trying to keep this thread updated for the future . i ran across sooooo many started threads with the same problem, but once the seemed to be close to be solved the thread ends. really start to think it's the ECU ?!?!!?
  12. You can actually measure the relay ! I would do that first or just get a new one since it looks like it's faulty. But as i stated earlier you can measure out the relay. just do as stated in the workshop manual.
  13. so here is an update on what happened next (for future references): took the car out for a quick spin about 15 miles and left it sitting for about 30-45min. came back started the engine and same thing as before! idle gets stuck at 1000 rpm and fluctuates up and down about 50 or 100 rpm! all the symptoms where back, also during driving condition. so i drove home and had a look under the hood. again umplugged some vacuum lines and repluged them without any change. then i took the ohm meter out and measured the IACV terminals all over again.......and guess what! 2 terminals where way out of spec! they showed 40-50 ohms, the upper limit hot should be around 30 ohms! the other 2 terminals showed values around 25 ohms which is absolutly fine. so i guess my IACV is gone.....at least once it's hot. so what i did next was to cool down the valve and see what happens....and the idle got a bit better (i guess it would have been fine if i tried cooling it down more). but still is might be also a problem of the TPS. i have never adjusted a TPS, so i took the spare throttle body i have laying around to try this. i also noticed here that i have continuity between the 2 terminals with the .60mm feeler gauge! but i also noticed that the throttle plate has some Play in it until it really opens. this is about 2.3mm!! so i opened the stop screw and turned it all the way until it was firm with the point at which the throttle plate is just about to open. then i opened the TPS and adjusted it to the point where with the .40mm feeler gauge i still have 2 Ohms (Workshop Manual tells u to be within 500 or less ohms?!?!?!), and the point where i have no continuity with the .60mm feeler gauge. all the other values where also in spec. can anyone tell me if this is ok? or is it wrong to adjust the TPS like this? from what i read on the Internet is that there is a value which tells the ECU "you're not idling now, we are driving", which is read from the TPS......could this be the point with the .60mm feeler gauge? i'm not an expert on this so any kind of help would be awesome
  14. so guys the most mystirious thing happened looks like the problem solved it self????? i don't know why!!! herre's what i did yesterday to the car: just wobbled on some of the vacuum lines, unplugged them here and there, replugged them.... i noticed the water level in the tank was almost not at zero?!?!?! don't know why.....so i refilled it to full and let it run for a couple of minutes. it was still fluctuacting like carzy afterwards! so here's what i did today: i measured all the pins on both the TPS and the IACV. IACV cold and hot! all in specs, except one was close to out 30 ohms (hot condition) which is the upper limit.also measured the TPS as of manual....also here everything in specs except the third value which should be "no continuity" had continuity!! the .60mm feller gauge didn't do anything....i needed a 3.6mm feeler gauge until the "no continuity" status was achieved! am i doing something wrong? since it's a NA j-spec supra i'm not 100% sure if the values are the same as the US NA ones. i'm also not getting this : "apply vacuum to throttle opener before testing TP sensor" IMO there is none on the NA throttle body.....or?
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