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@supra_aero: Yeah there are alot of carbon fibre ones. This is exactly the same color, texture and somewhat softness as the rest of the oem dashboard. @Scooter: The gauges in the picture are defi-link defi meters with controller, has nothing to do with the console itself. Yeah I figure the buyers are rare but given the seller I found a couple of years ago seems to be the only occurance of a re-sale of the triple and that I've only read of one sale on the four-holed version it would be interesting to know the actual rarity and maybe an estimated pricepoint if one were to sell it. Hard to value such a specific items though, I have no clue :-D Here is another picture to get this piece out on the internet at least! I did not have any on this computer with it mounted in the car though.

Hi, Back in the days dreaming of Supras I saw a dash compartment replacement with three gauges kinda oem-style and for me it really added to the whole classy japanese race street car look. A few years ago when I bought a Supra I was looking for that which I remembered around the internet/eBay and was surprised I couldn't find anything similar to my memory to buy. Only carbons or plastic but I found some pictures of a HKS Electronics Console with four smaller gauges and thought I might have remembered wrong about the triples. Then one day I came across it, an HKS Electronics Console on a hefty buy-now price but I thought it was worth it for me. I took it out from the car when I sold it because I thought it would be hard to find a new one for the next Supra. Now a few years later I have never once seen one for sale on different forums/groups/ebay nor have I came across a Supra with it in it so I am wondering if I were really lucky, if I am missing the posts about it or something else. I think I will be holding on to it but after finding a forum post for an active club guy that has been looking for the one with four 52mm gauges "for years" and no info on a triple 60mm console I am kind of curious on the rarity in comparison and surely the price of my console that holds three 60mm and HKS Electronics? It has OEM box and OEM manual paired with it. What are your thoughts?

Yeah, thats what I thought! Angle does really shape the oem ones differently on photos but in the game it's too much. Googled a bit more in regards to ridox fenders and then posted this on another forum: "I thought they laser scanned the cars but looking at the Supra front fenders it seems it might not be the case. It is not the do luck 25mm wider fenders but it could very well be the ridox 25mm wider ones according to shape but hard do know if they are wider or not. So, we are looking at either a ridox fenders wide supra fitted to a custom made oem front or we are looking at forza unique fenders. Attention to detail people! One does not simply add a Supra in a game! (j/k)." Though a wide body Supra with custom OEM front would be unique, anybody made one?

I am in love with the original look but this is awesome! Could you just photoshop in the "evil toyota" emblem on the front to see how it looks, it's the same theme and even if I don't like front emblems I think it could be just right for this look :-)

Hi, I just went all cranky when I thought that they messed up the "laser scanned" model of the Supra in the game Forza Horizon 2. It looked like they had the sharper edged 25mm wider fenders from Do-luck that comes along with the original Do-luck front (it is wider right?) but modelled it with an oem front. However, when I was googling pictures of 98+ Supras I came across both the more round shaped fenders and the more sharper ones on alot of different fronts. At this point my mind got all screwed up. My questions are: 1. Did the Supra have a redesign of it's front fenders at some point (98+ facelift?) 2. If above is true, are these 25mm wider than the more round ones (like the original Do luck kit)? 3. Are all above just imagination due to camera angles? I am pretty sure my fenders are superround without a mirroring edge on a shiny day. Thanks //Peter

Endless brakes was too expensive for my budget (£650+ for front pads?), waiting for an offer on a set of Carbotech XP10 which a friends who runs them cold (but in a much lighter car) recommended. What are your thoughts? If bleeding the fronts and this weeks normal braking makes the rotors and pads seem somewhat like they where before last wednesday, I'll have another trackday on saturday and then thats it for this summer. Definetly putting in 2.5" ducts, how should I spread/point the cold air.. just straight onto the shortside/ventilation of the discs? Lesson learned, quote created; "Big brakes aren't always good brakes. Good brakes are an expensive material sport that is aided by good braking techniques."

Should their be fireworks shooting passed your sidewindow entering a hairpin? ;-D I got the big brake (US/UK) and Porterfield Fast Road Pads + Castrol SRF React (new). What to change and in which order; Driving style, rotors, pads? Need to bleed the brakes cause they are really swampy now and I can hear the slits in the rotor so I guess the pads are looking like a smudged muffin by now... But it was fun! And again; any tips for good track pads? :-)

Hi, I am using 3G slit/drilled 323mm rotors with Porterfield fast road pads. Was on the track today and made my rotors really shine. I think i cooked my castrol srf react because brakes are really swampy now. Claim 1 (True or False it please): I guess the excess heat is mostly me being unused to track driving and doing the braking too early over a longer time and not doing it firmer and closer to the corner? Claim 2 (True or False it please): I am running too many laps without a pure cooling lap (3-5 full-on). I think they shouldn't heat up in excess if I brake later but harder but I would also like some input to other things I could do with my car. Can someone recommend a pad that works great on track for the supra UK/EU spec brakes? Is it a good idea to tunnel in some more air directly in front of the brakerotor with a 2.5" flex channel (http://badassparts.se/luftslang-2-5-silikon-300-c.html) Thanks in advance //Peter

Hi, I am installing a line lock reversed to prevent fluid from going to the rear calipers (engaging line lock prior to applying brake pressure) so that I can use front brakes as desired while having no rear brakes. I was thinking I only need to connect the solenoid to the front outlet from the brake cylinder instead of the rear but then thought about ABS.. Question 1: Is ABS off when trac control is turned off from the switch in the car? Question 2: If cutting off brake power at the master brake cylinder will affects ABS while trac control is off, whats the best way to counter that? Wire a switch to the ABS fuse? On power donuts, while braking, the ABS has never clicked which leads me to believe ABS should not be an issue when installing line lock as described? Thanks for answers!

Sounds good Chris! Btw, I read somewhere that the stock ecu provides "full fuel" after 1 bar? Do you (or anybody else) know if this is so, and what does it really mean? The same amount of fuel at X RPM at 1.2 bar and 1.0 bar? Yeah, I've been wondering to about the 1.35 bar after getting into supra technicals.. Maybe steel upgrades? He ran season 2012 and season 2013 with it as a pure track car where he won one of the seasons in his class. This year it's been remade to a street car with occasional visits to the track only. Except for a clutch and a blue flywheel he's not had any mechanical issues as of 2012, only bodyparts.. 2jz quality stamp? :-)

Hi, Swapped the exhaust and are getting 1.2 bar/17.4 psi as a minimum/baseboost. Currently running the BC flat at 1.2 even though I would prefer a lower baseboost around 1 bar and use the BC to get just over 16 psi but I guess you cant get everything.. Now BC only works as a 1.3 bar/18.9 psi warning/limiter. Funky JDM wastegate... Anyways!I do not have a wideband O2 hooked up so I just wanted to verify that I am "generally safe". I have a walbro pump and stock 440cc injectors, ECU is stock. Is it safe? A friend is running 1.35 bar/19,6 psi on 440cc injectors (~98% duty) and jdm turbos. He's ended 50+ tires on the drifttrack running 3rd gear rev limiter in all the big turns, so thats proven.. but thats with a Link G+ ECU.. I am curious how the stock ecu handles 17.4 psi on 440cc? Quite repetative, but is it generally safe? :-D Thanks for answers!

Sorry for pulling up an old thread but I am fitting a Line Lock and wanted to do some research. I am gonna hook it up in reverse on the rear calipers. It's a single solenoid kit so I will be fitting it to the master cylinder (that would be the rear brakeline right?) meaning I will be engaging it prior to applying brakes and block fluid to the rear calipers while using front brakes. I was reading up on ABS system and also on this thread it was recommended to put in a relay for the ABS power but I was wondering if that is really neccessary? If I do a doublefooted burnout now with traction control off, ABS light does not come on nor am I having any "ABS-stuttering". Line Lock or no Line Lock, wouldn't this be the same scenario? Front tires standing still while rear are turning? I guess the question is; if traction control is turned off via the "Slip Off" button, is also the ABS turned off? Thanks for answers so I'll know how to plan for the electrical before trial-and-error :-)

HSD MonoPro Front 18kgf/mm Rear 10kgf/mm HSD DualTech Front 16kgf/mm Rear 10kgf/mm

Hi, I got a four wheel alignment made this spring and driving is pretty good but on a visual glare the car sits with somewhat of a negative camber on the rear while the front is neutral or even sometimes seems to have positive camber (guess it's just my imagination). Anyways, I am waiting for a set of HSD MonoPro coilovers and I read something about the toe alignment in the rear getting messed up when lowering the car and whilst the front was pretty much the same while lowering it was recommended to do a four wheel alignment again. Is this true? I thought the double wishbone made for a pretty solid alignment all through the vertical movement of the wishbones? Should I be getting the car aligned at a shop and thinking about how the front ends looks, should I be requesting some specials values on alignment? I don't know how much the orginial parts can be adjusted in regards to camber and caster? The car is driven on the legal road but with occasional (1-3 times per year) "street car visits" on the local medium sized track. Tire wear is not really an issue depending on the pros and cons but I am hoping to get at least 10k miles from the fronts. Any thoughts? Thanks.

Thanks for the input guys.. Got the bigger UK brakes front/rear on the car with porterfield front pads with lots of wear left. Discs are a bit cracked on the surface but should last at least for this season. - I went TTC this evening, oh man the car feels alot more fun! - Relearned/reconfigured the HKS EVC with 110 offset and 0.86 bar (12.5 psi) as base and 15-16 psi as set boost (is this normal?) opposed to 10 psi as base and 100 offset manually configured in twin turbo mode before. - Ordered new rear pads. - Ordered Driftworks/HSD MonoPro Coilovers as per recommendation instead of working the engine this season. Next buy will be new discs (probably spring 2015) and bushing depending on the state of the ones on the car (will inspect while mounting coilovers).