Matty_L

The 1UZ housing solved the problem, it moved it in front of the steering rack and allowed me to keep the cooler too Just needed a filter relocation kit to avoid hitting the ARB Thanks for all the replys & info.

Hey, I've just received a letter from askMID saying my car isn't insured. I took a policy out with Adrian Flux in August. They haven't contacted me at all to say there is an issue so I can only assume this is a mistake. Do we have a rep for Adrian Flux on here who could look into this for me? I phone them earlier and was told to phone back tomorrow. Thanks for any help

Thanks for the replys. After doing a bit more research I might be able to use my 1UZ housing. I'm doing the swap at a mates house so I'll get some picks when I next go over there.

Hey guys, I've put a 3UZ V8 in my Supra from a GS430, only issue is the oil filter housing is too close to the steering rack, even with a relocation adapter its against the rack. So I could do with moving the steering rack forward a few inches. Has anyone ever done this? Is there likely to be any geometry issues with doing this? Cheers

subscribed. I'm about to swap my soarer 1uz for a 3uz You had any thoughts on the rev counter? My non VVTI works on the stock gauge with MR2 guts in it, but that won't work when I go to the VVTI 3UZ

This was mine with some Supra rims before its respray: Look at the door sills, they're a common rust area, if its kitted get under the car and see if you can see under the skirts, passenger side is the usual one, but check both. Ask the owner to remove the trim under the frunk (it's just a few easy clips) then check the firewall for any damage, that'll tell you if its had a smash. Other than that its the usual suspension knocks, smoke etc if its a turbo then check the turbo shaft for play, it should have zero side - side and minimal in - out. Absolute max boost is 1.2bar on a stock engine, personally I kept mine to 1bar. As long as the body work and engine is good, you should be okay suspension parts are cheap, it doesn't have expensive wishbones etc As others have said, the MR2 doesn't have the build quality of the Supra, but it does give you a rush to drive, its less forgiving than the Supra and more on limit of putting you backwards into the ditch at every corner. I never span mine but came close quite a few times on track. I still have a few MR2 bits in the garage so if there's anything they need give me a shout, I'd be glad to get it out the garage

The middle top image on page AC-21 and again at the top of AC-26 here: http://www.turbosupras.com/pdfs/JZA80%20TSRM/AC.pdf

Hey guys, Do I need a clamp that holds the two aircon pipes onto the matrix at the bulk head? I'm melting in my black Sup without aircon Or am I missing something? I have the two pipes, one big one small, but I can't work out how they attach. I know I have a bit missing, but what? Goes here: This is what it looks like on a mates car: https://scontent-b-lhr.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-prn2/t1.0-9/10295701_10152400096415944_7177191481032923874_n.jpg

Hey guys, Been on here a while and not really contributed much to the forum yet, so heres some info people with 1UZ swaps might appreciate: Firstly my car was a TT, I swapped the boost gauge for a voltmeter, to do this I removed the little circuit in the back of the cluster, then used some wire & crimps to piggy back the positive and negative terminals from the fuel gauge, the third screw on the boost gauge doesn't do anything on the voltmeter. You could cut the tracks away or do what I did and lift the circuit out the way and bolt the voltmeter under it. Not sure if that explains it very well... I'll get some photos. Next thing I did was to get the RPM gauge working. Obviously going from a straight 6 to a V8 means the stock gauge won't work. I used to own a rev3 MR2 Turbo and still had a cluster in the garage from that, so I removed the dial from the front of the rev gauge, then removed the coil & attached circuit from the MR2 gauge and swapped it into the Supra cluster. I then started the car and got it to its operating temperature, then fit the needle to the front of the gauge with it pointing at 700RPM +/-50RPM (This is the idle range of a 1uz) I might not be 100% accurate because the Supra gauge goes up to 8k and the MR2 was 9k, but with it idling at 700RPM it appears to redline just over 6.5k like it should. You'll need to solder some wire for this, only 1 of the three screws line up correctly, but its very easy if you have a soldering iron. I'll get some photos up when I get a chance.

Thanks guys can't make the meet on Monday, we're going to a wedding.

Hey guys, The car is pretty much sorted now, big thanks to Paul at Whifbitz for looking at it, the main issue was the stereo that had been installed by a previous owner, who apparently didnt know what they were doing lol, and it needed a new alternator possibly caused by the wiring issues. But its now back on the road here's a quick photo to celebrate I'll get some better photo's soon

Thanks guys. Not had a chance to look at it due to moving house, but hopefully Paul will be able to help sort it out.

nah it's not put me off the car yet, a mate came over earlier and commented on how good the condition of it was under the car, so it has it's up sides lol. Hi Ed

It seized a pulley and snapped the aux belt on the way home. So Paul sorted me out with some parts, while I waited for them to arrive I thought I have a look at some other things on the car, I noticed some of the gauge lights don't come on with the ignition (but they did when I picked it up) and the windows dont work anymore. I'm not sure if this is related to the aux belt issue, but there was a 10A fuse under the dash that had blown, so I replaced it but it just blew again.

I have the car home now, but having a few problems with it, hopefully be sorted soon.