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terence

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  1. i need a little help here please, have some manifolds which have been modified to fit the head of a mkiv made by trust originaly. now the manifolds allow kkk26's to fit and probably other makes of turbo to if you get flange's made for different fitments. my ? is, this system doesnt have a balance pipe btween the manifolds so each bank of manifolds are seperate, every other set of manifolds ive seen have a balance pipe off the same pipe that feeds the wastegates. i am aware that this would equal the presure out btween the two manifolds but does that not effect the true reading the adjustable wastegate see's ? ie exhaust gases traveling from one manifold to the other and causing exhaust gas turbalance. also is it ok to fit the wastegate dump pipes into the down pipe's ? and is it ok to have both dump pipes into the same down pipe as it will make plumbing so much easier. can someone measure the distance from the edge of the head on the exhaust side being the edge of rocker cover to the suspension strut leg so i can make sure all will fit in. hopefully having some copies made of the manifolds when finalization is finished. thanks in advanced. terry
  2. Hi adi just tried to send you pics and mail but it keeps rejecting your email address Terry
  3. Hi I beleive its best to lay this one to rest, I know what i got and paid for. my last coments on mr G's turbos are, yes that was the price and the info you have is incorrect, we have the spec and it was verbaly given to us at the premises along with the product and discussed heavily b4 the work was done. and they flowed as much air as leons set b4 he changed his setup completley. larger inlet hosuings were fitted and they were machined too. larger impeller blade larger stainless exhaust blade and machined housings stainless steel shafts 360 bearings ported wastegate dual oil seals for reducing leak by, under vacum on tickover. the above was then tuned to how we wanted the power to work, ie low down and midrange. I also have the pics b4 they were fitted if anyones interested. terry ps the turbo housings were so much bigger that it should really of had the exhaust manifold machined to match the port sizes and the inlets were out as much as could be machined with out going into the inlet screw holes, they were as much as could be done, all that could be left to do was to put a slightly larger impeller blade in but it would have given more lag which is what we didnt want.
  4. Hi all |can anyone tell me what colour the uk injectors are supposed to be and part no's. I have part no denso 23250-46060 and they are purple, 550cc ? terry just got them from the states 2day, off to get them tested now.
  5. Hi I to find what you say as strange, I only spoke to him recently to have my own set done, the price ive said is actualy slighlty dearer than i am paying. The wheel sizes you refer to are varible as to the state of tune of the turbo, i beleive the shafts are stainless. David has had his done a little while back on his 2.5tt and they were fantastic and cost £950 quid inc vat and the exact words were, "they flow enough air, as what leons did before he changed his turbo set up" i beleive leon has since sold them on to someone else. Davids turbos were maxed out in every way including bigger induction housings and built to how david wanted to drive the car, ie low lag and plenty of mid range, he's not interested in doing 150mph, His turbos could flow more air but lag would enter the factor, are we talking about the same person ? I am unwilling to to give details away because the original conversation was if i could supply the units he would build them, i didnt want people phoning him up haseling him whn the price given to me was a good one, it may be different for others i dont know. the price is for a pair, Terry ps ,ail me privatley about this please terry, thanks
  6. hI I work 12 hour days and spend 3/4 hr getting to and from work and sats to so im not always upto date with my emails. I maintain scapers & cats d6 d9's etc the stuff that moves motorways etc so very tiring, everything is very heavy or very tight so im knackered most days. What sort of power output can one expect from this turbo upgrade > that will depend greatly on the state of tune of your engine or components and the state of spec of the turbos. turbos ar'nt an exact science anyhow, if you had turbo's built for low down grunt and mid range then obviously top end power would be less than say someone with top end performance in mind. I personaly prefere turbos to work as low down as possible without losing to much else where, torque is what gets your car motoring, power is for top end use only. Now if you could match torque and bhp equaly consistantly through the rev range that would be an engine worth having. big bucks, the supra 2.5tt is very close. with max boost say 25psi ? If I sent the blown turbos to you how long would the turnaround time be? > i believe in previous conversations 2 bar was the quoted figure but you wouldnt want to run that, your engine wouldnt last long unless built for it, and if it was you probably wouldnt have stock turbos reworked cos youd have enough money to buy a big single or something. turn around time has been said to be a round a week - 10 days but i would think that would depend on what hes doing at the time. Something is not right with this thread> like what ? I would like an exact spec for the £850+VAT turbo's please.> all the turbos ive given him have been housings remachined and or ported ( dependant on what needs to be acheived ) stainless shafts with stainless expeller blades enlarged impeller blade ( again dependant on needs ) 360 bearings dual oil seals ported waste gates ( again dependant on what the needs are ) dynamicly balanced come to you looking like new. it was a set of jap specs that were done last time and i wouldnt know what they are like compared to uk ones, but daves 2.5tt flows enough air for around 450+ bhp if you can get the rest of the engine to work properly to produce the power. when i have mine done, i explain what i would like them to acheive, the state of tune of the engine ie exhaust system and cam degrees and profiles etc they are going on, and where abouts you would like the performance to be most. What's the guys first name & I'll confirm he is the same guy??> i really dont see the need to explain whos who and doing what, im not in some sort of competition and dont need the money, that's not why i do it, it was purley to help out others and to make people aware there are other avenues other than using expensive outlets, that all. But since you ask it begins with G, now I wonder who that could be ? I discussed maybe having turbo's built for the club and or other freinds etc and he set me up a good price and as yet has'nt let me down, the quality is good and experiencing the goods has led me to go nowhere else. Terry my turbo's are being spec'ed to run with nos and cos the way it works wouldnt run very well on a stock motor, sure you can put nos on a stock motor that has turbos but there wil be a bottle neck somewhere or a sacrifice, my cams are being reprofiled along with nos and turbos and exhaust to gain maximum effect and there's the rest of the engine to go yet. like i said its not an exact science and each car will behave differently according to what your engine spec already is.
  7. is that price regardless of the spec ie turbine size? > that is for a set of supra twin turbos, cant see it being any differnt, did davids and having mine done and the same price. the only time is if the turbos has actually blown apart physicly, nits missing or melted or cracked, things like that. he has given me good prices on everything ive asked for and quilaity on the ones ive seen and used was brilliant ricght down to th finsih. Terry he may wel have different prices for different turbo's, i never have asked him.
  8. Good enough? > not by a long way but a good try though, im sure if anyone looks hard enough they can find out who it is, just ask loen or mr branners, im sure they will help you. if you go through leon or anyone else for that matter you will pay their prices, simple. thats how it works. the price i gave was a price through me, i'll be honest i will earn a little for passing them on but i think you'd be hard pushed to find better and for that quality. Terry and before anyone thinks im ripping them off, i would earn maybe £50 on the pair and when thats £500 notes cheaper than say turbo technics before the vat i cant see too many people complaining particularly when i could earn more out of it and no-one would be the wiser.
  9. then the rubber damper and inertia mass of the pulley will be out of tune with the vibrations in the cranktrain, with unpredictable results. > yes i would agree to a point, but im not lightening to such a degree, only the surface edgeing, so i cant see it being to far off the mark, you would have to have the crank measured for vibration and enertia and have a purpose built pulley for it, how much would that be. as i said before, i am using what i have, answer to your block ? is all the surfaces inside the area where crank sits which have sqaure edges, ie the webbing the holds the crank really and the caps, although the 2.5tt block was already like this when i came to do it, good quality that engine, billet crank, forged rods, it was so well set up it was hard to improve on it within the budget. you seam to be against the front pulley, have you had other experience with aftermarket parts then, it is a grey area. Terry
  10. Here we go again, dare I say this, I can send your turbos to the same chap who builds them for loen, now if there good enough for leon there good enough for anyone, I use him too and his work is excelent, cost is around £850 + vat a pair for fully blown hybrids providing yours are not totaly knackered. He will also build them to your spec, ie what you want to acheive, bottom end, midrange, top end and so on. Terry I await the barrage of comments
  11. Hi darren as i said before there is so much i left out, i only skimmed the basics, im finding it very difficult to say anything on this list cos if i dont cover every possible eventuality when commenting on a topic people find the missing info and start asuming. the rounding of the crank is purley to take away any edges which under load can cause stress fractures to apear, by rounding of the edges you remove the possibilty of it happening, the same for flash markings, round curved areas are less prone to fractures cos the crack if you like cant start on a curved area like it can on a corner area. polishing the crank & rods is also good too, my crank would have the maching done first ie rounding, polishing, tuftriged and then the whole assembly ie front pulley, crank & ring gear would be balanced as a unit, this way the whole bottom end is in tune. it is then very important to keep the ring gear bolted to the crank in the same position every time in order to keep balancement. the rods would receicve the same treatment, rounded, shotpeaned, polished, weighted equaly and tufridged. The pistons would be reworked, lightened and weighted so they were all the same, this way the whole bottom end would be able to spin up quicker, less prone to stress fractures and would be able to deal with more load b4 failure. I would have the bearings on the bigs plastigauged to ensure correct tolerence as well as the main bearings. by doing all this it means the whole bottom end can take more of a load whereas a standard bottom end could fail. if you are any good at this sort of thing you can do most of it your self, although i wouldnt advise it if you have no experience, i build engines and transmissions everyday of my life, so i have some idea, I dont claim to be the best in the world, I just do what I think is right and it hasnt let me down yet or failed. Im not in the same legue as say chris wilson but i have built more engines from the humble lawn mower to big v16 detroit 2 stroke diesels in motor scrapers and everything in between than i can remember. I also build race engines for motorcyles for an endurance team along with suspension set up as well as a power bike i race when i get my act together. Terry
  12. hmm, interesting talk, ive just read the whole lot from beginning to end and it makes good reading with lots of different views. with ref to the crank and rods and pistons, i found the standard mkiv pistons to be the same as used in the 2.5tt mkiii, these were actually a higher spec piston with regaurds to handling psi than any of the after market performance piston i could find, ( not to say there arnt any but not in our price range )not the weight department but the abuse they could take b4 colapse, hense we didnt change them. you can change the profile of the piston a little, ie skirt height etc to lose a little weight and so on, but remember there are other factors to concider when doing this. I found a toyota dealer who could sell new mkiv pistons for £35 each, so when buying after market stuff at a £1000 plus, weigh up the odds etc I beieve the crank and rods to be cast as are the pistons, ( i await other peoples coments )on my crank the edges have been rounded to prevent stress fractures appearing leading to failure, lightened and balanced and nitro tufrigded ( cant spell ) the same with the rods and also polished. this will allow me to put more stress caused by upgrades and move the failure point further away hopefully. ( sure i can buy a billet crank that will withstand higher treatment but it costs big bucks, this is just using what i already have ) My block is also receiving the same treatment but not tufridged, again to remove any stress fractures that could apear. Along with new shells etc, not changing the front pulley as it provids balance and harmony throughout the rev range, I dont like lightened or after market pulleys, fine maybe if you rebuild your engine every day or after a race but not for road use, read an article about harmonics in cranks and pulleys. my head is going to be flowed to allow by hybrids ( built to my spec ) to work as best as possible, ( idea being to create as free flowing air route as possible from induction through to exhaust ) every port hole will be matched equally to allow for no interference of air flow. ( sure i could rework the head with bigger valves and machine all the valve guides and so on for less interference but it all costs big dough, im just reworking what I have) cams are hks 256 exhaust ( cheap thanks to Gavin ) and uk inlet reworked for longer lift ( again thanks to gavin), cam pulleys, squish and compression set up,( again the varies according to how much psi and nos I use, dont want a melt down ) everything will be lightened and balanced and weighted equally ( not to a riduculas point but just to remove the manufactoring casts ) and to run some nos, ( the nos is for nothing else other than spooling up the turbos ). due to the creation of lag by the hybrids, ( the nos is just to fill the whole created low down to bring on the spooling earleir thats all) And then the rest of the usual stuff, exhaust, induction, Ic, injectors, fuel pump ( uk fuel pump for the fuel rail & j spec pump purley for the nos ) turbo's will be fully reworked and run a true set up, the induction housings will be milled and impellers changed and exhaust ports flowed along with wastegate and exhaust manifold. + the other bits. Basicly as much as the stock parameters will allow with out changing to aftermarket turbos ay hugh expense. That basicly concludes the tune of the engine ( ie blueprinting, if you were to look at how the supra engine was designed on the drawing board you would find a very different engine in your car, simply cos of materials, manufacturing costs and the ability to build as it was desigend ) other than fueling, my problem is which way to go with the set up of the fueling, this can only be done on a engine bench test or a rolling road, that will probably cost more then the cost of the tune. All i am doing is removing the restrictons that are inbuilt, and to optamise the engine I have with out going into changing everything outside of what I have. If i had an endless pot of money i would have a totaly different engine and probably car for that matter, I am just utualising what I have under my bonnet. when set up properly it should be quick with lots of torque, torque is my thing over bhp any day, torque is what makes your car move, I will have a maximum setup on the dyno and then slightly down tune for saftey margins but I would expect a genuine 500 bhp with very little lag, ie straight from the word go, no waiting ( waiting for spool means spotty little teanager will be gone b4 u. ) now we dont want that do we. Terry I await the barage of comments, bring it on, LOL ps there is an awfull lot of other bits ive left out when building an enine, but would take to long to write down. thanks for the debate about pipework and headers etc, it answered ?s I had. happy supra motoring.
  13. terence

    nitro

    adam, you seem top be knowing this area, wher can i look at info on nitro timers and their ignition timers as im about to bid on ebay for a apexi itc, apexi supa afc, hks boost controller and a blits super sound, really desperate to find a way of contolling ignition timing for the introduction of nitro for the short period to get the turbos to spool, im not using it at the top end but just to get the turbos started, just a whif, help help help
  14. terence

    nitro

    that was meant to say timing adjustment
  15. terence

    nitro

    can anyone tell me where i can get info on a progresive nos modual and something called an apexi s, itc, does anyone have any experience with toming adjustment on a jza80 other than a expensive mapable ecu ? thanks Terry
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