Yakky

Enrichen the "Injector adjustment" - because the "acceleration injectors" maps are for TP-in, dumping a little extra during throttle position delta. Auto-tune is a fuelsaver/dynotime saver when setting up a "base" map for then tweaking. There's little hope that your global adjustments will be right for all load points. Without auto-tune, you'd be brave to map on public roads from scratch - know what I'm meaning?

999 and 999 will be same as 0 and 0. Global zero effect. Tuner is probably using maps only to tune - which is fine if maps are good. Be careful using his maps and then changing to 440-550 global resize. The injector Before and After is just an educated guess to start tuning from (when used). Use Emanage "Auto-tune" for good results like others. Look it up if you don't know what I mean. In regard to lag - this will be very sensitive at idle conditions as Ricky moots. If the injectors are OEM, then look them up. It won't make much difference at boost though unless crazy values. Lag left at zero-zero will mean no effect - quite safe usually if injectors are similar lag.

Hey Dan Does she drive a white GT4?

Fuel consumption over a tank worth is mostly closed loop, especially if you drive carefully. Open-loop (at full throttle) is where *your* car is over-fueling. Ask your dyno operator on how to sort out the fueling. If that dyno chart was from just one run, then it could have been just random, you need a few runs to see what the ECU is doing - especially if you reset the ECU recently.

1JZ vvti's aren't easy to find either!

That's because less than 10 is off the scale for most sensors. You're running pig rich.

Dangerously rich AFR at under 10, you must have seen alot of black smoke sucked up by the extractors!

Are you going to do anything about the high compression ratio on the 1JZ VVT-i that puts off people going over 1.1 bar or more..

Agree with Drew there. Ctek are great for the cheapies (under 100 quid) from direct experience but they won't charge a "dead battery" every time - voltage less than 10.8 or so volts. Try an old fashioned big charger to get something in the dead one, and then later switch over to a budget Ctek. Then they're great. Else a dead battery will get you stuck in Stage 2 or Stage 3.. or whatever and after 8 hours the Ctek unit gives up.

Everyone's advice above applies - it's all good. One hour of technician time at most - maybe bite the bullet?

Torque would be amazing as the torque multiplicative effect is in play while not locked up on this dyno print. More torque but less efficient - so lower power.

Kaan - don't confuse lockup with stall mate. Your solenoid as Ryan said for mechnical lockup may not be firing, or there may be a problem with the line pressure control solenoid (affects whole system). You need to get someone to check the output of the lockup solenoid from the ECU, start there as Nero says. Check the pin-out, and get a multimeter on there. Start there because at least you'll know if the ECU thinks it is ok to lockup the TC. There is also a temp sensor on the gearbox that could be not fitted/connected or not reading right - presumably used to avoid lockup when cold to warmup the box as slipping will generate heat, desirable when cold.

Big money from Toyota, and not sure but they might not extra for the magnetic clutch - which makes it sound fancy but it's not. Guessing but over 500 quid new. Second hand is cheap because you're taking a punt that it's a good unit. If it's not then your system will swarf with bits of A/C pump piston and then worse, the next compressor you try will chew up also, so your system must be flushed and the swarf filter replaced (if Toyota's have one, VW's do - it's just a pipe). When you buy one, look for one where the wheel freely moves, and with no/little corrosion. Do not buy from ebay - buy from someone on Forum maybe a trader here, and ask them to swap it if it's a dodgy one. Remember that your system needs checking for swarf BEFORE you fit the 2nd-hand unit.

System is swarfed - full of bits of metal. There should be a swarf filter somewhere in one of the pipes. Find a decent mechanic to sort - they'll know and charge you for the pipe and a system flush.

Brake fluid - sometimes only does it under acceleration if it's close.