rider

I have a pneumatic 9l oil extractor that gets used a lot on my wide variety of motorised cars and plant. Clean and easy. On the Supra, it managed a PAS oil fluid flush in about 30 seconds sucking on the return line. Though its main use for me is on engine oil extraction from plant with awkward drain plug location or cars with specific vacuum drain tubes. I also have a car with no drain plug on the differential so it gets used on that. For under £30 for a manual pump with 9l capacity reservoir, that's a keen price for a product with decent Amazon buyer reviews. My oil extractor is one on my regular go to garage tools. https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B0CDFY1CC4/ref=pe_9466511_957079191

That suggests to me that the problem lies not within the mirror itself but with its screen mount. If you have someone push the mirror mount against the screen when you drive then you will see if that stops the vibration.

That isn't normal, see if it continues if you dip the mirror. If that stops it then just raise the mirror manually to give you the non dipped view in the dipped setting.

You can gloss up acrylic paint by adding a medium to it, effectively a varnish, to then spray as one coat. With an acrylic paint once it has dried out it is near impossible to reactivate so doesn't lift with polish. So it seems the OP could be polishing off cellulose paint which wouldn't be a factory applied paint choice in the 1990's but may well have still been a body shop choice in the 1990's especially with old school sprayers who grew up with cellulose.

To think I threw away an aerial because the antenna wasn't lifting when the motor was churning away. I didn't know then that you could get a replacement part for the antenna so that aerial got thrown. I do hold that part as a spare on my garage shelf now. It looks like your blast cabinet has external air. I've been thinking about buying a cabinet for years but the cfm on my narrow 1/4 air line wouldn't be enough to operate it effectively. What size bead or grit are you using and at what cfm air through what size air line? I have a 16cfm compressor but it struggles to drive air tools so it probably only delivers 10cfm through the narrow bore tubing. Which is fine for pumping tyres or paint spraying but I'd suspect is a bit weak for bead blasting.

The car paint isn't cellulose. We know that for two reasons, thinners don't reactivate the paint and there is a clear coat which is something you never see on top of a gloss oil based cellulose paint. The 90's were before the era of water based paints so its probably safe to assume the original paint would be acrylic with a clear coat lacquer finish.

I have a self refurbished leather 3 spoke wheel with horn boss that I haven't got around to fitting onto my own car yet (which has the cheaper composite wheel variant original) so I could let it go for £1,200 collected or arrange your own courier. That is about half the new price before they were discontinued. There is a cheaper option available on eBay presently for £1,031 and that includes delivery. If you phoned them up and took it direct, rather than via eBay, you could probably get 10% off. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256407033710

They seem to take a while to shift but I've seen the j spec bonnets tend to move at around £400 to £500 but they do get advertised for more. I haven't seen a UK spec listed in recent times, I'd guess add a hundred for the scoop, maybe more seeing they are only available as fibreglass repro's these days. It's all a best guess seeing it all depends who and how many people are in the market. In the good old days those bonnets were £100 all day long but Supra inflation has had its way.

If it were me I'd take a punt on the Denso units of the same era having the same casing, plug connector and internals with the only discernible difference being the mounting bracket location, number of and shape. The Supra module has three mount locations so the Celica and the 90-92 model year Land Cruiser has a similar casing to the Supra under model number (land Cruiser 85980–60020) but both do use different shaped mounting brackets. My theory depends on whether Toyota supplied the mounts along with the module which would give a convenient explanation why the same module could then have several car model specific part numbers. I never tested this theory with actual purchases so it just remains a theory at this time.

The link below is to a USA based value tracker for the Supra, or indeed any model retailed in the USA giving a 5 year history on bids and sales for the car model. It isn't split into specifics on manual or auto or turbo or NA but it does show the average trend and individual information on each data point. Prices in the USA have softened a fair amount during 2023 as they did here in the UK. The price breakdown does drill down into mileage impact on pricing which is a useful guide to the depreciation curve. There is nothing comparable for the UK market but it does seem similar price trends so is a useful reference point for those watching which way the market is moving. I always felt 2023 would be peak Supra so it could be a gentle drift down from here as the cars age gracefully with precious few spare parts available to maintain them in a Toyota guise. https://www.classic.com/m/toyota/supra/4th-gen?chart=sales

There is currently a black carpet for sale on eBay

If your vent is a replica of the UK genuine then you can generate a template from the thread for the hole drilling. http://www.mkiv.com/techarticles/european_hood_scoop_install/index.html

There are differences with fuel delivery and circuitry in NA or TT or modified so it's not easy for anyone to be specific with a list of things to check. This link will give you some pointers to relay check and bypass but its specific to a TT setup which your car may or may not be. https://www.supraforums.com.au/forum/topic/73726-fuel-pump-issue-help-please/

It would be impossible to say what pretty much anything is worth without pictures as rolling shells come with bits or without bits and in a variety of conditions. Bits add to the valuable. Bits like tailgates with glass worth £1k or missing £0. With or without aluminium bonnets, there is another £600. Some come with lights others don't, there is another £1,200. Some come with dented panels some come with straight panels. Some come with good useable/sellable set of wheels some come with not so good wheels. Some come with an interior, part interior or no interior. Is the shell supported on the original sub frames and drive shafts? They fetch strong money these days.

I assume you will be after new bolts so Toyota would be a good place to start. Some people are happy with using recycled bolts but I have always avoided that on suspension parts as they are safety critical. With high torque bolts the threads get stretched and smoothed on first tighten which means you need a higher tightening torque to achieve the same preload you had during the first tightening. That is a think up a number exercise.