Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Alonso

Club Members
  • Posts

    12
  • Joined

Alonso's Achievements

Newbie

Newbie (1/14)

0

Reputation

  1. I'm not sure how do i want to proceed from the "commercial" point of view. But there will be a way to get one for everybody in a couple of months for a fair price And yeah, i'm also considering building somehow a round version für the facelift model when the first steps are sucessfully completed :-)
  2. Good point. The serial interface of the chip is also wired to the programming connector, but not yet used. So it would be possible to connect and read any RS232 data by using a small TTL converter out of the box with some custom programming. I just see some issues by connecting with CAN-Bus to modern standalones - i do net expect that the used chip is enough fast/powerfull for handling this kind of complex data. But RS232 should be fine. What ECu are you using? Maybe i can find one for testing this idea
  3. After "some" days i like to provide an update: I was driving a full season with my prototype. From the technical point of view, everything went fine. But as i was not happy with the display (not enough bright during daylight), i tested some alternatives - and i found a nice one. I went from the OLED to a cool retro LED display. I did also design & order new custom PCB's and i labeled the project to "Antigauge" :-) I'm currently completing the new software and will drive this baby again for some weeks by myself. Current specs: 6x analog inputs (4x 16bit, 2x 12 bit). Pre-wired for 2x temp, pressure, boost, dimmer and ambient temperature (eu-spec). But i'm ready to reconfigure all non-temp inputs to anything else. Real time clock, car battery powered (ultra low current) 1x RGBW Led for status (color concept: blue=cold, orange=warning, red=Alert, red/white flashing=Mordor) Green or red LED display by choice Plug & play (except the sensors), operated with the OEM buttons The current PCB for the EU-Spec (missing the connectors and led): I was able to buy a broken non EU-Spec gauge, so there is also a different PCB layout for those planned. And as there was a huge echo in the MK3-Community, there will also be a MK3 version as well in the future. But one step after each.. What i will modify for the final version: Enhance the PCB layout (position&type of the connectors) Adding a buzzer Improving the pushbutton contacts Prewire 2 more analog inputs, going 16bit for all analog inputs So guys, what do you think? Disappointed that the OLED has gone?
  4. I'm searching just for the undertray, but i'm also willing to buy the complete Active Spoiler unit if not sold as spare. Check the highlighted differences in the picture below (left: basic undertray, right: Active Spoiler). Shipping to Switzerland or Germany expected. Feel free to offer what you got.
  5. Thank you for the feedback guys! @Noz I'm currently using a 1.3" OLED black&white display. This one is fitting perfectly between the guides of the buttons without cutting anything on the clock assembly. The current display fits perfectly in the height, but not on the width. The shown version version also has a multicolor led close to the left side of the display to show alerts and warnings. But i see a lot of potential improvements in this topic.. @mwilkinson That would be super cool, i fully aggree. But to be honest, i've never had one of those in my hands. Will check if i can borrow one from a friend for the disassembly Good point about the "basic" non eu version. The top "temp" button is currently connected, but not used by the software today. So this should not be an issue. More painfull is the difference on the clock connector, they are also not the same. I have found a matching male connector for the EU model to power directly from the clock harness without cutting any wires. I will not be able to produce something similar for the other version. @mr.gil Cool, i'll remember that. Will come back to you if there is progress on a pre-production series
  6. I'm currently moving back to the OEM style, but keeping some aftermarket features. As first result, i'm currently working on a new gauge type - using the OEM digital clock assembly with some new home built internals based on a Arduino. A quick test run (no buttons, no sensors, test screen) The goal is to connect up to 5 analog sensors for boost, temps and pressure with this. Different screens and functions will be accessible by the OEM buttons. Including (auto) peaks, master alert and some other stuff. I'm currently completing this prototype and will use it during summer to confirm the usability and functionality of the used components. If everything works as expected, i'll produce some plug & play units with professional pcb's next winter. Just let me know if you have any feedback or ideas to improve my idea. Will possibly start an official group by post when i'm ready. There is no commercial goal behind - i'm working on this during rainy weekends and sleepless nights
  7. Ahh damn, the writeup is in the internal ("driver") section of the board. You need to confirm that you have currently registered a Supra to your name, and complete the registration process. To be honest, there is no need for that to just read my german post there I'll provide a complete english version in this forum within the next days. As a short teaser, how my mod works; The OEM spoiler ECU does provide the following modes during driving: 1 - Spoiler always up when speed 2a - Spoiler up when speed > 80km/h (50mph) and "Auto off" button on the switch pressed 2b - Spoiler down when speed > 80km/h (50mph) and "Auto off" button on the switch not pressed 3 - Spoiler always down when speed > 160km/h (100mph) My mod does replace the speed signal from the car and simulate a constant speed of about 100km/h (60mp/h). As result, the spoiler will just operate in mode 2a or 2b, controlled by the factory switch - nothing else. The led does directly show the current state of the spoiler (like before) Creating a square wave speed signal is pretty simple, and can realized by a cheap, generic device like a NE555 based circuit. You can buy a complete board that is directly able to deal with the voltage levels in a car (example device linked in my post above) for real cheap. To make even simpler, there is enough space in the spoiler ECU to install it directly in there. There are 3 wires to deal. You just need to connect it to GND and ACC, unsolder and protect the speed signal from the car on pin 1 (upper row, first pin right on my picture) from the board and connect the new speed signal to the old solder pad where pin1 was connected. Configure the NE555 to provide something in the area of 100Hz. Isolate and Protect everything - done. Some schematics: Will edit and provide more information/pictures in the next days by editing this post.
  8. I just like to add my version of this, known as "Alonsos smart mod" in the german community. I have allready published a full article some time ago there (in german). A short summary; It's a example). The "new" speed signal and ACC/GND is soldered directly into the ecu. The spoiler can then controlled by the "auto off" switch. The prototype looked like this: I was driving with this for 2 years without any issues. I'm currently doing a improved version with a more professional install this winter. Stay tuned
  9. Hello everyone After using your forum for a very long time, i decided to support and join the community. I prefer the old school community forums way more than modern Facebook/WhatsApp groups and chats. My name is Michael, 39 years old and located in Berne, Switzerland.I have a degree in electronics, but working as a data scientist today. I like to to some "hands on" work an my cars or my hose when i'm away from the office. Since my childhood, i was fascinated from pop-up headlights. As result, my first personal car was a T18 Celica in 1999. After some other cars, i bought a pair of MK3's Supras in 2006 and got integrated into our local Supra community real quick. After some other MK3's, i take advantage of the opportunity to buy a MK4 from a friend in 2013. (This was a major point on my personal bucket list ) I'm still in love with this car - and i still have a MK3 from previous days. The MK4 is a (German) EU-Spec LHD TT Targa in 199 silver, and looks like this: Back in 2014, i had a very bad start into the supra season. A bloody metallic object from a unknown source went into my 6th cylinder and has damaged the engine after after driving for the first 3 days in that year: After the first days of frustration, i decided to rebuild the engine from scratch. I bought a "cheap" brand new shortblock, did fully rebuild the head, replaced tons of parts/gaskets and got finally ready beginning of 2016: Mod list: Work XD9 wheels K-Sport suspension EBC brake disks and pads Fully custom exhaust (street legal) BPU'd Zeitronix Wideband/EGT/Boost/Oitemp monitoring Full dash LED conversation Activle spoiler with modified ecu for manual operation HKS SSQV HKS hardpipe kit for SMIC (painted in black) Focal hifi system with pioneer double din headunit Various facelift parts Torque converter with 3200 stall Plans for this winter: Brake rebuild Facelift headlights Adding a modified OEM subwoofer Upgrading the tranny cooler Refurbishing various small parts Here we go - happy to be part of this community And sorry for my english skills - my mother-tongue is Swiss-german
  10. Hi there I'm doing the same stuff actualy. I want to use the id-3 for some temperature measurement. First, some facts; -There is no need tu buy the f*** expensive harness from blitz. You'll only need a fitting connector. Have a look to your favourite electronic discounter. -The Pinout of the SBC id-3 http://supra.alonso.ch/d/222-1/67.jpg You only need a fixed reference voltage (f.e. 5vdc) for the sensory supply. You can get them with a LM7805 component or similar. Then, you can use any fitting temperature sensor, NTC or PTC does'nt matter. Add a secundary resistor to limit the current. Connect the middle between the temperature sensor and the resistor to the input of the sbc, and set the parameters in the settings menu. F.e. 1VDC --> 10°C, 4VDC --> 90°C. Of course you have to calculate these values, but this should be an easy lesson for anyone with some electonic knowlegde. I can post you my complete solution in a few weeks. There is some more important work to do first You hope you can understand my english Kind regards
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.