View Full Version : Another single build! PHR street kit
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 10:14
Another single build thread I know but I won't be going into too much detail as I'm basically following Homer's build thread. I thought it would be good to post up stuff that is different that may help others and also ask a few quesions to help me.
Parts purchased so far:
PHR street turbo kit
Sard 650cc injectors
Wabro fuel pump
Aeromtive FPR
AEM ecu
fuel pulsation removal kit
double decat
Taking off the twins was a right PITA as everyone has eluded to but its done now thank god.
I followed the Interwork website (sorry can't remember whos site that is) to fit the SARD injectors. They fitted in perfectly.
Nice one that, I am looking to do the same in the future too. Can I ask you how much you paid for the items so that I can get an idea of the costs involved.
Sounds good :cool: A West Sussex lad, where abouts are ya ?
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 10:25
pics
nice one, what power are aiming for ?
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 10:31
I'm in worthing. Im not at home at the mo where the receipts are but when I get back ill post up the prices.
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 10:35
I hoping for around 500 ish hp at the end. I got the kit as its meant to be one of the fastest spooling ones, i dont want it too laggy. according to the phr site its good for 550hp
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 10:42
the first problem i have run into is the oil return for the turbo. the kits made for lhd supes so the steering mechinisms are in the way for my rhd.
I need a 45 degree fitting like the BL one on Homers thread, does anyone know where I can get something like that
mikeyb10supra
08-01-07, 11:13
Your using a cast manifold....very sensible ;) and good to see, what wastegate are you using?
I hoping for around 500 ish hp at the end. I got the kit as its meant to be one of the fastest spooling ones, i dont want it too laggy. according to the phr site its good for 550hp
thats fantastic - exactly what I am looking for......
Think Automotive will help with the oil part you need.
Just make sure the drain is pointing straight down out of the turbo!!!
the first problem i have run into is the oil return for the turbo. the kits made for lhd supes so the steering mechinisms are in the way for my rhd.
I need a 45 degree fitting like the BL one on Homers thread, does anyone know where I can get something like that
Glad to see the thread is of some use!
I'm almost certain Think automotive can supply one of those fittings (www.thinkauto.com)
Edit - too slow!
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 11:32
Your using a cast manifold....very sensible ;) and good to see, what wastegate are you using?
Its a ITS Progate wastegate 50mm that came with the kit I believe
You might also get away with turning the steering rack bolt the other way up ;)
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 11:44
You might also get away with turning the steering rack bolt the other way up ;)
good thinking Batman, I'm gunna go and have a look!
RobSheffield
08-01-07, 12:02
Nice one :)
Looks like we are both at approx the same point :)
mikeyb10supra
08-01-07, 12:18
Its a ITS Progate wastegate 50mm that came with the kit I believe
I take it your fabricating your own piping kit and wastegate attachments to mate up with the cast manifold
supradibbs
08-01-07, 13:05
ahhhh another worthing lad
am just up the road if you need any fabrication work i have a great guy i use or if you need any advice feel free to shout:)
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 14:40
I take it your fabricating your own piping kit and wastegate attachments to mate up with the cast manifold
nope, the PHR Street kit comes with the PHR cast manifold, the wastegate with adapter and the turb bolts straight on, i'll post up some pics of the kit in a min
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 14:41
ahhhh another worthing lad
am just up the road if you need any fabrication work i have a great guy i use or if you need any advice feel free to shout:)
cheers, I'll keep that in mind as I'm sure I need a couple of bits made
What are you doing for a downpipe? I had real problems with mine due to the straight position of the turbo...
You might also get away with turning the steering rack bolt the other way up Genius!
;)
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 15:30
What are you doing for a downpipe? I had real problems with mine due to the straight position of the turbo...
I haven't tried lining it all up yet as I had some weird 2inch decat pipe that was nowhere near fitting the supplied downpipe. The kit comes with the one in the pic and its meant to be able to bolt straight on. I've ordered 3inch decat pipes so when they arrive I'll try to line it all up, fingers crossed
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 15:33
I thought I'd attach my dyno plots when the car was a twn turb for comparison afterwards. Before it just had boost controller, first decat, Nur spec exhaust, induction kit and fmic
I haven't tried lining it all up yet as I had some weird 2inch decat pipe that was nowhere near fitting the supplied downpipe. The kit comes with the one in the pic and its meant to be able to bolt straight on. I've ordered 3inch decat pipes so when they arrive I'll try to line it all up, fingers crossed
Thats a nice setup, the downpipe appears to bolt directly onto the 1st decat pipe (though it will be US/UK spec, rather than Jspec).
Genius!
Credit should go to LeeT for that idea ;)
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 18:07
Thats a nice setup, the downpipe appears to bolt directly onto the 1st decat pipe (though it will be US/UK spec, rather than Jspec).
DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just ordered J spec decat pipes
DOH!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I just ordered J spec decat pipes
Ooops!
You might want to double check with PHR before cancelling the order but1 as its a US kit I would assume it'd have a US Spec flange.
Edit - just in case you're not aware, the 2nd decats are same so at least half your order will fit :) Its only the 1st decat that has a different flange.
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 18:22
Ooops!
You might want to double check with PHR before cancelling the order but1 as its a US kit I would assume it'd have a US Spec flange.
Edit - just in case you're not aware, the 2nd decats are same so at least half your order will fit :) Its only the 1st decat that has a different flange.
I'll give Envy a call in the morning. I wonder how expensive it would be to have a different flange welded onto the j spec 1st decat?
supra matt
08-01-07, 18:31
good thread mate im just down the road in chichester and have got the phr stage 2 dbb kit to go on mine hope to fit it this weekend or next . once there both done it would be good to go for a blast to see how much diffrenc there is between the two .
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 18:38
good thread mate im just down the road in chichester and have got the phr stage 2 dbb kit to go on mine hope to fit it this weekend or next . once there both done it would be good to go for a blast to see how much diffrenc there is between the two .
Definately, I didn't realize so many supe owners were so close! Let me know how ur build goes:)
supra matt
08-01-07, 19:00
will do mate ya there is quite a fue round here , 2jz lives in your neck of the woods to he comes to the pompy meets so once your upand running pop down to one .
I'm only in Horsham,not that far away :)
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 19:14
Nice one that, I am looking to do the same in the future too. Can I ask you how much you paid for the items so that I can get an idea of the costs involved.
Here's a rough idea of the costs so far:
PowerHouse Racing Stage Street Turbo kit £2000
Sard 650cc injectors £210
AEM ecu + Aeromotive FPR + walbro fuel pump + fuel pulsation removal kit £1600
New gaskets + bolts etc £100
Double Decat £225
I was hoping to do it for £4000 but as with all my budgeting I've gone over!
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 19:15
will do mate ya there is quite a fue round here , 2jz lives in your neck of the woods to he comes to the pompy meets so once your upand running pop down to one .
Can't wait to get driving again, it's been off the road since September!
rpslaughter1982
08-01-07, 20:28
Just doing a bit of reading on the AEM ecu. What spark plugs are people using when running an AEM on a single. The manual recommends Denso Iridium IQ 24 or 26's, any thoughts?
supra matt
08-01-07, 22:13
ever of them will be fine mate or you could get some ngk ones .
Just in case you've not planned it, one thing I would recommend to do now is get those injectors flow tested. Last thing you need is a sticky injector or one flowing more (or less) than the others!
BTW, my budget was £2k, its at £5k so far and still rising :D
supra matt
08-01-07, 22:20
Just in case you've not planned it, one thing I would recommend to do now is get those injectors flow tested. Last thing you need is a sticky injector or one flowing more (or less) than the others!
BTW, my budget was £2k, its at £5k so far and still rising :D
would these not be flow tested at the factory mate ?
would these not be flow tested at the factory mate ?
No, at least, not matched
Plus they degrade over time spend doing nothing in boxes. They could be 2, 3, 10 years old. more than a few months sat in a box and they need re testing
Here's a rough idea of the costs so far:
PowerHouse Racing Stage Street Turbo kit £2000
Sard 650cc injectors £210
AEM ecu + Aeromotive FPR + walbro fuel pump + fuel pulsation removal kit £1600
New gaskets + bolts etc £100
Double Decat £225
I was hoping to do it for £4000 but as with all my budgeting I've gone over!
Thx for that....seems like £4K might be too low....:(
Where did you get the Turbo kit from?
mikeyb10supra
09-01-07, 08:54
looks like a nice setup you got there and the cast manifold will never crack ;) the exit to my gate feeds back into the exhaust trail, I see with your kit it dumps to atmosphere....interesting
rpslaughter1982
09-01-07, 09:26
looks like a nice setup you got there and the cast manifold will never crack ;) the exit to my gate feeds back into the exhaust trail, I see with your kit it dumps to atmosphere....interesting
and loud as I'm told!
Very, can sound like a full on race car :D
rpslaughter1982
09-01-07, 12:39
some pics of the turb kit
mikeyb10supra
09-01-07, 12:50
Very, can sound like a full on race car :D
Wez how do they sound with the exit of the gate fed back into the exhaust, im not after dumping mine to atmosphere due to the noise factor, I know others love it ;)
rpslaughter1982
09-01-07, 12:50
I've had a look at the steering rack bolt but I still won't have enough space even if I turn the bolt upside down. I think I'll have to order a new fitting.
rpslaughter1982
09-01-07, 14:18
Can anyone tell me the part number for this coolant hose?
I've had a look at the steering rack bolt but I still won't have enough space even if I turn the bolt upside down. I think I'll have to order a new fitting.
Had the same problem mate tried a few different things but in the end used my PHR oil feed return plate with a new 90 angle adapter use can get them from here http://www.thinkauto.com/ . I got mine from Greg @ Turbofit who was a top man :) and sorted out a custom one out me.
Hope you get it sorted
EDIT: See below just found a photo
rpslaughter1982
11-01-07, 12:41
Had the same problem mate tried a few different things but in the end used my PHR oil feed return plate with a new 90 angle adapter use can get them from here http://www.thinkauto.com/ . I got mine from Greg @ Turbofit who was a top man :) and sorted out a custom one out me.
Hope you get it sorted
EDIT: See below just found a photo
Thanks, I've now ordered the adapter from thinkauto so will soon have the same setup as you
fisherjohn
12-01-07, 01:23
i have been running that turbo for last 2 years or more ( L4 SUP ) it made 520 at the rear wheels at thor racing at approx 1.3 bar.
My car is j spec with aem and ik 27 plugs also with the aem c2di running wasted spark.
I have had a problem for the last year with the gearbox though as it is automatic and am now having thor refit the old ecu and fields harness to run the gearbox only and the aem to run the engine etc.
Apart from that my car has run very well also with 3600 uprated torque convertor.
rpslaughter1982
12-01-07, 18:38
i have been running that turbo for last 2 years or more ( L4 SUP ) it made 520 at the rear wheels at thor racing at approx 1.3 bar.
My car is j spec with aem and ik 27 plugs also with the aem c2di running wasted spark.
I have had a problem for the last year with the gearbox though as it is automatic and am now having thor refit the old ecu and fields harness to run the gearbox only and the aem to run the engine etc.
Apart from that my car has run very well also with 3600 uprated torque convertor.
Thanx for the info, I'll probably be asking you a few questions nearing completion time! Mine's a manual so hopefully I shouldn't run into to too many problems but that power output seems perfect. Did you do the mapping yourself?
i have been running that turbo for last 2 years or more ( L4 SUP ) it made 520 at the rear wheels at thor racing at approx 1.3 bar.
My car is j spec with aem and ik 27 plugs also with the aem c2di running wasted spark.
I have had a problem for the last year with the gearbox though as it is automatic and am now having thor refit the old ecu and fields harness to run the gearbox only and the aem to run the engine etc.
Apart from that my car has run very well also with 3600 uprated torque convertor.
John have you spoken to Dimitri regarding the AEM and autobox?
Is it a standard autobox?
fisherjohn
13-01-07, 14:39
Hi Wez,
Long time no speak, no i have not but apparently Pete Betts obviously knows that there are issues with aem and an autobox, apparently lot of people have used stock ecu to run the gearbox, my car will hardly pull away at the moment, needless to say after the enormous amount i have spent on this thing it has pixxed me off greatly, it is a standard box btw with 3600 torque convertor, i have not been on here for months actually
rpslaughter1982
22-01-07, 15:21
Time for an update:
problems with the down pipe. As you can see from one of the pics the screamer pipe hits the PHR downpipe! How stupid, they sell this as a kit and by bolting all the bits together they supply they foul!!! Not happy.
Second problem being the downpipe doesnt match the decat pipe (I knew this was coming though).
What I really need to get is a custom down pipe made up. I know some people have done that on the forum so I would really appreciate some advice and suggestions where to get it done, many thanks
Turbofit made my custom downpipe, they would be able to mod your screamer aswell as they have a full time welder/fabricator there at all times but you will need to get the car to them, they have a guy that picks them up on a low loader at a very reasonable price;) 01908 614971
supra matt
22-01-07, 16:58
Time for an update:
problems with the down pipe. As you can see from one of the pics the screamer pipe hits the PHR downpipe! How stupid, they sell this as a kit and by bolting all the bits together they supply they foul!!! Not happy.
Second problem being the downpipe doesnt match the decat pipe (I knew this was coming though).
What I really need to get is a custom down pipe made up. I know some people have done that on the forum so I would really appreciate some advice and suggestions where to get it done, many thanks
Hi mate sorry to see you having trouble ! I think you will find they built it round a uk spec car so you will need to buy a uk spec down pipe it will then mate up right, As for the waste gate look's like you just need to spine it sound so the screamer pipe gose into the bend of the down pipe if that maks sence? Hope this helps ;)
Did you not get a mid pipe in the kit? The downpipe is not normally designed to fit the the decat pipe, you will normally also need a mid pipe and a V Band adapter, so it will fit a cat back exhaust (their mid pipe has a v band end to fit the HKS exhaust).
The dump pipe should also fit if fitted correctly, might be worth contacting Jarrett at PHR and sending him pics.
rpslaughter1982
23-01-07, 08:47
Did you not get a mid pipe in the kit? The downpipe is not normally designed to fit the the decat pipe, you will normally also need a mid pipe and a V Band adapter, so it will fit a cat back exhaust (their mid pipe has a v band end to fit the HKS exhaust).
The dump pipe should also fit if fitted correctly, might be worth contacting Jarrett at PHR and sending him pics.
Thanks for the replies. The kit did not come with a mid pipe as allegedly it was designed to mate up with the stadard exhaust. I was aware that it wasn't going to fit exacly because of the usa / jap different exhausts (although I thought it would just be a different flange).
On the wastegate front it doesn't rotate and the way its on is the only way it fits, I'll give PHR an e-mail to let them know.
I think my best plan of action is to get a new down pipe made up with the mounts for the various sensors
I got mine done at Hayward and Scott and very please with the results. They will need the car and when they did mine they also made brackets to hold it all together.
http://www.haywardandscott.co.uk/
rpslaughter1982
25-01-07, 16:42
Can anyone tell me the part number for this coolant hose?
Answered my own question, M T87209-14810 = £52.42+vat!!!!!!!!!!! I'll get some other hosing for the time being thanks Toyota
rpslaughter1982
26-01-07, 13:41
I want a 3 inch exhaust flexi pipe (or bellow) like the one Homer had welded to his exhaust, does any one know where to get one?
http://img170.imageshack.us/my.php?image=forum91yf5.jpg
supra matt
26-01-07, 19:10
try demon tweeks mate the motor sport section
rpslaughter1982
28-01-07, 20:31
try demon tweeks mate the motor sport section
Cheers, they've got some good stuff on there and the exhaust piping seems fairly cheap. I found the piece I was after though on www.dynoflow.co.uk. May help if anyone is looking for similar bits:)
Not got it finished yet Rich??? :p
By the time yours is back on the road mine'll be off the road having its BPU++.
rpslaughter1982
30-01-07, 17:31
Not got it finished yet Rich??? :p
By the time yours is back on the road mine'll be off the road having its BPU++.
You gotta cut me some slack mate, since I started this project I've been distracted by getting married, going to china for a couple of weeks and getting the misses pregnant. I hope it's finished before the little'en arrives or it may never get finished!!!!!!!!
rpslaughter1982
30-01-07, 17:43
Just thought I'd post a summary of the tricky bits so far:
PHR Street Turbo Kit ordered. This kit comes with a turbo elbow that bolts that bolts to the exhaust side of the turbo with a gasket. The turbo elbow is designed to match up with a US spec exhaust so will not fit the jap ones. I have a jap spec decat pipe which I have cut the flange off of. This will soon be welded to teh turbo elbow with a steel flexi joiner to get round the problem.
I also found that the turbo elbow flange hit the screamer pipe when fitted. Not a big problem for me as I have cut the pipe anyway but if someone wishes to mate it to a US spec exhaust they may have trouble.
Another problem is the oil return. The turbo sits considerably lower than other kits I have seen whcih makes it difficult to get the feed fitted round the power steering mechanisms. In order to fit it to a RHD car it will have to be modified. I have modified this by buying a male/male 90 degree which bolts to the block and shortening the oil return pipe itself.
The kit comes with 'drop down' style intercooler piping which did not match up with my intercooler. I have cut this pipe around and rotated the turb so that it routes to where the original piping went.
I've been distracted by getting married
Where was my invite then? :p
Congrats BTW..... And you're right. you HAVE to finish it before the nipper comes along, or else wait about 18 years ;)
If you need a hand/tools/stuff you know where I am mate!
rpslaughter1982
10-02-07, 19:26
urgent - (nearly to the point of starting) Can anyone tell me what fuel pressure i should be running with the single - 650cc injectors, stock rail, fuel pulsation bypass, afpr - many thanks
Stock fuel pressure should be fine.
What's AFPR mean?
What are you using to trim the injectors?
Edit,
Nevermind, I searched the thread
33-38 psi will be fine. Ian recommended 38psi for my setup which is essentially the same.
supra matt
10-02-07, 23:00
and are you not ment to set the fuel pressure with the vacum off as well?
and are you not ment to set the fuel pressure with the vacum off as well?
Correct.
rpslaughter1982
11-02-07, 18:15
Thanks for your help peeps. Actually turned it over for the first time since september yesterday with no major drama! I've taken some pics and a short vid which I'll post as soon I get my camera working.
RobSheffield
11-02-07, 18:17
Nice one, look forward to video :)
rpslaughter1982
12-02-07, 17:31
Here's a pic of my downpipe welded up
Looks good! Nearly there :D
Where did you end up getting the expansion joint in the end & what was ther price? (Need to make another dp for mine at some point..)
rpslaughter1982
12-02-07, 17:57
Looks good! Nearly there :D
Where did you end up getting the expansion joint in the end & what was ther price? (Need to make another dp for mine at some point..)
www.dynoflow.co.uk and it was £20 delivered. Very good service
rpslaughter1982
12-02-07, 17:58
http://video.google.co.uk/videoplay?docid=777778129388692325
It was just the first time we turned it over so nothing is set up yet but not bad considering it hasn't budged for 6 months!
that is a very good price
rpslaughter1982
12-02-07, 18:05
I think that exhaust valve on the dynoflow website could be fun too. Normal system for the MOT then straight out for a laugh!
rpslaughter1982
19-02-07, 19:09
Another question, on the back of the intake chamber is air intake hose, where should this route to on a single? many thanks
supra matt
19-02-07, 19:13
think you just block that one up mate ! or use it for the wast gate.
rpslaughter1982
19-02-07, 19:40
think you just block that one up mate ! or use it for the wast gate.
Sorry, just so I know we're on the same page, the tube on the far left of this pic?
Yep, its in a good place to use for boost reference. Got mine hooked up to the BOV (its the same feed the stock BOV uses).
I wouldn't use that for the wastegate. the best one for that is off the compressor housing (closest is best)
Sorry, just so I know we're on the same page, the tube on the far left of this pic?
If you mean the one on the end with the pipe still attached then yes.
supra matt
19-02-07, 19:44
I would say cap it off mate
RobSheffield
19-02-07, 19:46
Video sounds good :)
rpslaughter1982
19-02-07, 19:50
Thanks all for your help.
On another subject, I did the 12v fuel pump mod as it was recomended to me when I got the walbro fuel pump. Unfortunately I did more research after carrying out the mod and have since discovered that it is dangerous as the fuel pumps always on with the ignition! What's the best way around this? I still want the pump to be run on 12v's.
supra matt
19-02-07, 19:53
its only on with full ignition mate , it,s off if you have it in postion 1 which is your stereo and that ,
rpslaughter1982
19-02-07, 19:59
its only on with full ignition mate , it,s off if you have it in postion 1 which is your stereo and that ,
Apparently the problem is if you crash (touch wood) the fuel pump will continue to pump fuel into the engine which could lead to all sorts of problems. It was briefly discussed on TL License's blitz twin install thread however he completely changed his fuel setup and no alternative suggested for people with the standard setup.
TBH I dont know if the standard pump would stop in the event of a crash.
rpslaughter1982
24-02-07, 15:55
As per the info on the 12v thread I have decided to undo the mod.
I have done a compression test on the cylinders and they all came between 170 and 180 psi which seems healthy to me
I'm going to wire up the the aem 3.5 bar map sensor, does anyone happen to know what wire goes to where? 3 wires on the aem red green and black, 3 wires on the standard sensor are brown, black and blue with a stripe. Many thanks
rpslaughter1982
29-09-07, 10:56
Haven't updated this thread for a while but I thought I'd add a little overview of my experiences/problems.
1- The PHR Street kit oil return did not fit on my Jap spec rhd car due to the steering rack. I bought a 60 degree aerospace 10an female hose fitting hoping that it would clear but it didn't (-10JIC Doubleswivel- Aeroquip http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_Female_60o_fitting_69.html).
The oil kit comes with a mounting bracket (to fit to the block) and a straight male to male (10AN to NPTF I believe). This male male adapter sticks out too far. I actually botched this using a 90 degree female to male adapter from B&Q and haven't seen any leaks.
I believe the best way around this problem is to buy a 45 or 90 degree 10AN to 1/2inch NPTF male to male adapter which will screw into the PHE adapter plate. Think auto have some.
FBM2024
-10JIC x 1/2NPTF- aluminium
http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_JIC_to_NPTF__AN823___166.html
MMA98-10-8
-10JIC x 1/2NPTF- aluminium
http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_JIC_to_NPTF_173.html
I have heard that another way to get round this problem is turning one of the subframe bolts upside down however I didn't fancy doing this.
2- Turbo exhuast pipe. This will not fit the Jap cars and on my kit the exhuast pipe actually hit the screamer pipe. This didn't matter to me too much as I had a different exhuast pipe made up however it's worth checking when the kit arrives.
3- Remember to fit fuel resistant rubber o-rings to your injectors/fpr/rail etc. I didn't and it took me an age to take it all off and refit them properly. I got mine from http://www.speedflow.co.uk/z510.htm
4 - spark plugs. When starting and tuning initially don't use iridiums. I rendered a brand new set of IK24 useless in about 50 miles from overfuelling. Get some cleanable ones will sorting out initial maps and then put the good ones in for fine tuning.
5 - AEM ecu's are complicated for a begginner! Living on the south coast there are not many specialist tuners around and exceptionally few that can map AEM's. I ended up driving a long way to pay for mine to get mapped and when I got the car back it still didn't idle with some very weird AEM idle settings.
Mine wasn't a custom map from scratch however the tuner adapted another map with different map sensor and injector settings. Whilst this hasn't caused any major problems the map scale is off. You pays your money..........
In hind sight, if I were to do my small single install again I'd probably go for a piggyback system for simplicity.
6 - I had a number of stalling problems with my car after the all the kit was fitted. When the engine got hot and you drove to a stop the engine would cut out. Also had a big dip in RPM when pressing the throttle from idle. After a lot of fiddling I found the main poblem to be the throttle plate resting position and ICV% Vs RPM table on the AEM.
After reading the manual properly, when setting the idle you should do so with the ICV off and no extra load on the engine (aircon, lights etc). You adjust the resting Throttle position first to get to your idle target. After this has been completed you can set your ICV% vs RPM for your RPM range and engine loads. This may seem obvious to advanced tuners but for a novice like me took me about a month to figure out!
RobSheffield
29-09-07, 11:08
Thanks for the update, you may have just helped me with a problem!
Cheers for that Richard, that will also help me out a lot :)
Who mapped your AEM and why is the scale off?
Mine wasn't a custom map from scratch however the tuner adapted another map with different map sensor and injector settings. Whilst this hasn't caused any major problems the map scale is off. You pays your money..........
In hind sight, if I were to do my small single install again I'd probably go for a piggyback system for simplicity.
6 - I had a number of stalling problems with my car after the all the kit was fitted. When the engine got hot and you drove to a stop the engine would cut out. Also had a big dip in RPM when pressing the throttle from idle. After a lot of fiddling I found the main poblem to be the throttle plate resting position and ICV% Vs RPM table on the AEM.
After reading the manual properly, when setting the idle you should do so with the ICV off and no extra load on the engine (aircon, lights etc). You adjust the resting Throttle position first to get to your idle target. After this has been completed you can set your ICV% vs RPM for your RPM range and engine loads. This may seem obvious to advanced tuners but for a novice like me took me about a month to figure out!
Not sure I would be confident to run positive boost on a map that seems to have been cobbled together from a different car mate, who mapped it ?
Here's a rough idea of the costs so far:
PowerHouse Racing Stage Street Turbo kit £2000
Sard 650cc injectors £210
AEM ecu + Aeromotive FPR + walbro fuel pump + fuel pulsation removal kit £1600
New gaskets + bolts etc £100
Double Decat £225
I was hoping to do it for £4000 but as with all my budgeting I've gone over!
And that doesnt account for labour costs - which would apply in my case - how much labour is involved (approx) ?
Thanks for the update mate - any chance of seeing a dyno sheet or some HP numbers?
Haven't updated this thread for a while but I thought I'd add a little overview of my experiences/problems.
1- The PHR Street kit oil return did not fit on my Jap spec rhd car due to the steering rack. I bought a 60 degree aerospace 10an female hose fitting hoping that it would clear but it didn't (-10JIC Doubleswivel- Aeroquip http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_Female_60o_fitting_69.html).
The oil kit comes with a mounting bracket (to fit to the block) and a straight male to male (10AN to NPTF I believe). This male male adapter sticks out too far. I actually botched this using a 90 degree female to male adapter from B&Q and haven't seen any leaks.
I believe the best way around this problem is to buy a 45 or 90 degree 10AN to 1/2inch NPTF male to male adapter which will screw into the PHE adapter plate. Think auto have some.
FBM2024
-10JIC x 1/2NPTF- aluminium
http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_JIC_to_NPTF__AN823___166.html
MMA98-10-8
-10JIC x 1/2NPTF- aluminium
http://www.thinkauto.com/acatalog/On_line_shop_JIC_to_NPTF_173.html
I have heard that another way to get round this problem is turning one of the subframe bolts upside down however I didn't fancy doing this.
2- Turbo exhuast pipe. This will not fit the Jap cars and on my kit the exhuast pipe actually hit the screamer pipe. This didn't matter to me too much as I had a different exhuast pipe made up however it's worth checking when the kit arrives.
3- Remember to fit fuel resistant rubber o-rings to your injectors/fpr/rail etc. I didn't and it took me an age to take it all off and refit them properly. I got mine from http://www.speedflow.co.uk/z510.htm
4 - spark plugs. When starting and tuning initially don't use iridiums. I rendered a brand new set of IK24 useless in about 50 miles from overfuelling. Get some cleanable ones will sorting out initial maps and then put the good ones in for fine tuning.
5 - AEM ecu's are complicated for a begginner! Living on the south coast there are not many specialist tuners around and exceptionally few that can map AEM's. I ended up driving a long way to pay for mine to get mapped and when I got the car back it still didn't idle with some very weird AEM idle settings.
Mine wasn't a custom map from scratch however the tuner adapted another map with different map sensor and injector settings. Whilst this hasn't caused any major problems the map scale is off. You pays your money..........
In hind sight, if I were to do my small single install again I'd probably go for a piggyback system for simplicity.
6 - I had a number of stalling problems with my car after the all the kit was fitted. When the engine got hot and you drove to a stop the engine would cut out. Also had a big dip in RPM when pressing the throttle from idle. After a lot of fiddling I found the main poblem to be the throttle plate resting position and ICV% Vs RPM table on the AEM.
After reading the manual properly, when setting the idle you should do so with the ICV off and no extra load on the engine (aircon, lights etc). You adjust the resting Throttle position first to get to your idle target. After this has been completed you can set your ICV% vs RPM for your RPM range and engine loads. This may seem obvious to advanced tuners but for a novice like me took me about a month to figure out!
supradibbs
29-09-07, 23:56
Not sure I would be confident to run positive boost on a map that seems to have been cobbled together from a different car mate, who mapped it ?
Agreed AEM is a complicated piece of kit as you well know not sure as to why the guy who mapped it is doing so if he is not up to speed with it
rpslaughter1982
01-10-07, 11:03
(Who mapped your AEM and why is the scale off? )
sorry but I don't want to name names. I know it's good for people to know and if anyone really needs to know I don't mind talking via PM or other but posts complaining can go a bit crazy and I don't want to be involved in that.
I believe the scale is off because it's not set up with the correct MAP sensor settings. It's got a load offset and different scalar to the standard settings for a 3.5 bar aem sensor.
(And that doesnt account for labour costs - which would apply in my case - how much labour is involved (approx) ? )
I don't really know how long it would take a skilled mechanic to do all the work, it's taken me nearly a year working every other weekend.
rpslaughter1982
01-10-07, 11:25
I think this is the current map that is in my car for peoples info only
(I cannot take any responsibility if people use it etc blah blah).
All comments are welcome, I'm still working on the idle
rpslaughter1982
01-10-07, 11:35
these are before dyno plots
rpslaughter1982
01-10-07, 11:40
After dyno plots, I'm really happy with the drive (apart from idle). Nice and progressive. Much better than twins I think, especially between 3 and 4 k
You're right, the scales are off - unless you will be hitting 4bar of positive boost :D
Anyway, what boost are you running to ? I need to look at this at home tonight mate, will PM you my thoughts.
rpslaughter1982
01-10-07, 11:55
the car was mapped upto 1.4 bar but I've only been driving it up to 1 bar. Feels quick enough to me and a bit safer while things are still being sorted out :)
As mentioned before you are wasting half the map resolution with the current load breakpoint setup, the RPM breakpoints look good.
There is no boost fuel cut set.
Looking in your garage you have a manual box but the gear ratios have not been setup and the autobox control is still enabled, this doesnt cause any issues but is nice to have it setup.
rpslaughter1982
02-10-07, 00:48
Cheers, I've decided to start again with my map. I'll post up my progress. I think it would be good for AEM users to have some more stuff on this site. The AEM site is OK but not too 'new user' friendly. I appreciate this forums help and hopefully I'll be able to help others at some point.
As mentioned before you are wasting half the map resolution with the current load breakpoint setup, the RPM breakpoints look good.
There is no boost fuel cut set.
Looking in your garage you have a manual box but the gear ratios have not been setup and the autobox control is still enabled, this doesnt cause any issues but is nice to have it setup.
Are you doing this yourself?
rpslaughter1982
02-10-07, 12:38
I was going to but I've been talking to some others on the forum and it looks like I'll be able to get some much needed and very appreciated help.
I'll keep the post updated with what's going on when I know more.
rpslaughter1982
03-10-07, 15:34
I’m trying to sort out the battery offset for the SARD 650cc Hi-Imp injectors I have fitted. The required info is not in the AEM set up wizard.
From the AEM forum I have found that people have tried the following settings:
2550 2550 2550 2550 2520 2030 1750 1500 ???? 1250 1080
2550 2550 2550 2290 2100 1890 1730 1620 1500 1420 1300
I haven’t found anything definitive yet. I did have someone else’s map who was using the SARD 650s but it’s at my mates house at the moment who is away on holiday.
Has anyone else used these injectors with an AEM?
I have also heard that the SARD 650 injectors are the same as the Denso and Holley injectors. Has anyone heard of this?
Richard, do you know exactly which adaptor you ordered from Think Auto, as I'd like to buy the adaptor ready for when my kit turns up next week. Cheers :)
rpslaughter1982
04-10-07, 18:36
Richard, do you know exactly which adaptor you ordered from Think Auto, as I'd like to buy the adaptor ready for when my kit turns up next week. Cheers :)
I ordered a 45 degree female hose end as I thought this would bolt onto the staight male to male connection that came with the pick. From the pic of my car you can see that I've fitted a 90 degree fitting to the adapter plate which is a bit of a botch. I cannot advise you to do it this way.
I believe your best bet is to mimic the kit that Homer had on his car. This will involve buying a 45 degree male to male adapter. I believe the sizes of this are 10An to 1/2 inch NPTF. I wonder if Homer could confirm this.
I have stolen some pics from Homer's build thread (I hope you don't mind Homer) to hopefully explain
rpslaughter1982
26-10-07, 11:08
Just been looking at my map trying to figure out some of the problems.
I see in the ignition phasing options, ignition sync is set to 0.09. Is this correct? On the aem forum they have always said not to mess with the ignition sync.
Also the coil dwell vs batt volts table has been altered compared to every other map i have seen. Is this to do with the HKS dli? Has anyone with a DLI and aem adjusted their coil dwell settings and if so how.
many thanks for any help
I see in the ignition phasing options, ignition sync is set to 0.09. Is this correct? On the aem forum they have always said not to mess with the ignition sync.
Also the coil dwell vs batt volts table has been altered compared to every other map i have seen. Is this to do with the HKS dli? Has anyone with a DLI and aem adjusted their coil dwell settings and if so how.
many thanks for any help
Can you email me your cal file to look at?
I run a HKS DLI, here are my dwell settings :-
http://www.zen85016.zen.co.uk/gallery/aem/coildwell-s.JPG
rpslaughter1982
26-10-07, 12:35
Can you email me your cal file to look at?
my cal is on post 104. It's been slightly modified since it was posted (scales etc) but the settings for coil dwell and ignition sync I believe are the same.
my coil dwell looks very similar if not identical to yours which I guess means it is right.
what do you have as far as ignition sync is concerned?
Any chance you can post or email the current cal?
rpslaughter1982
26-10-07, 12:56
here's the dwell and settings under ignition phasing tab
Dwell settings look ok to me :thumbs:
What size injectors are you running, what boost controller are you using and what transmission.
rpslaughter1982
26-10-07, 15:35
What size injectors are you running, what boost controller are you using and what transmission.
650cc Sard injectors,blitz dsbc and 6 speed getrag
650cc Sard injectors,blitz dsbc and 6 speed getrag
PM`ed
rpslaughter1982
04-11-07, 10:47
Just looking into the timing of my car. Please correct me if I am wrong:
to set up the timing on the supe correctly the crank pulley mark should be set to the 0 degree mark (tdc) and the cam marks to the corresponding grooves on the cam cover.
in my pics the crank pulley is slightly off. does any one know how much this would put my timing off by? would it just be the degrees shown on the markings or does that amplify through the rev range etc? many thanks
gsportcars
04-11-07, 15:54
The belt looks fine to me. I remember changing my cam belt and if you turn the crank pulley so it lines up perfectly you will find that the cam pulleys will have moved so little that you prob won't notice it at all.
BTW, Have just read through this whole thread from start to finish. Very nice I have to say, but my question is, have you ever had any experience of mapping before or are you completely new to it???
Only reason I ask is that I would love to be able to map my own car to a certain extent but I know that I could completely destroy something if I don't know what I'm doing. I wouldn't want to try just incase.
rpslaughter1982
05-11-07, 08:14
cheers for the info.
I haven’t had any experience no which does sound dodgy. I have been getting help from other forum members though and tbh I won’t be attempting any of mapping for ‘driving’ conditions. I have really just been having a look at the start up and idle so that hopefully when it comes to getting the car properly mapped it will be a lot easier!
I have also wanted to learn about the aem just so that I know what I’m looking at :)
The belt looks fine to me. I remember changing my cam belt and if you turn the crank pulley so it lines up perfectly you will find that the cam pulleys will have moved so little that you prob won't notice it at all.
BTW, Have just read through this whole thread from start to finish. Very nice I have to say, but my question is, have you ever had any experience of mapping before or are you completely new to it???
Only reason I ask is that I would love to be able to map my own car to a certain extent but I know that I could completely destroy something if I don't know what I'm doing. I wouldn't want to try just incase.
Now that I'm a trader I can own up. I went and saw the car but uploaded a new re-scaled map, changed a few other settings and improved the off boost ignition but not a lot could really be done as I don't advocate road mapping this time of year.
Last time I spoke to Rich he was going to bring it to me when I've opened up, so hoping this is still the case - be good to see this perform properly and in time for when the weather changes :)
Incidentally, Rich did a good job on the idle :thumbs:
rpslaughter1982
06-12-07, 19:44
Now that I'm a trader I can own up. I went and saw the car but uploaded a new re-scaled map, changed a few other settings and improved the off boost ignition but not a lot could really be done as I don't advocate road mapping this time of year.
Last time I spoke to Rich he was going to bring it to me when I've opened up, so hoping this is still the case - be good to see this perform properly and in time for when the weather changes :)
Incidentally, Rich did a good job on the idle :thumbs:
Yup still the case, just trying to clear the credit card before 2nd Jan!
The car hasn't moved in a good few weeks as the battery became U/S. I think I'll just replace it with a Halfords one
Just FYI guys to fit the Street Turbo Kit to the RHD cars better we have changed some items in the kit and will be included for any J-spec order. Included the 45 degree bend needed for the Drain Line.
Thanks for the advise on your car's as we dont have them here but we try to make it best for everyone. If there seems to be a problem anywhere else feel free to PM and I will get it corrected.
Cheers,
Joe
Hi Joe
I had a problem with the IC pipe (fit HKS Type R FMIC) hitting the steering rack, I know a few others who have had the same problem. I got the pipe cut and re-welded so as to clear the rack, pics attached.
I also fitted one of your 4" down pipe/mid pipes and had a problem with it hitting the sub frame, I don't have any pics of this, but I was able to get it to fit with some gentle persuasion with a hammer. I was using the pipes with a HKS manifold/GT35R, so this may have something to do with this
cheers
rpslaughter1982
21-12-07, 21:38
Just FYI guys to fit the Street Turbo Kit to the RHD cars better we have changed some items in the kit and will be included for any J-spec order. Included the 45 degree bend needed for the Drain Line.
Thanks for the advise on your car's as we dont have them here but we try to make it best for everyone. If there seems to be a problem anywhere else feel free to PM and I will get it corrected.
Cheers,
Joe
If only I had started my project 14 months later :)
Just read through all of this. Whats the £damage so far?
rpslaughter1982
22-12-07, 13:16
Just read through all of this. Whats the £damage so far?
a bit scary. rough totals:
PHR street kit with delivery and vat about £2300
Decat pipes £25.75
AEM + 3.5bar sensor + walbro fuel pump + Aeromotive FPR £1666.15
IK24s X 2 sets (fouled the first lot) £140
HKS DLI £256.73
injectors £250
fuel proof o-rings £9
Gaskets, fuel+oil filter + coolant £160
Silicone hosing £47
FPR fitting kit £105
Exhuast welding £100
Misc clips, wiring £20
various oil changes £150
a crap map that needs re-doing £400
somewhere around £5855 total :( and not finished yet
rpslaughter1982
24-12-07, 09:33
For AEM users: does anyone have any info on the throttle% vs throttle inj corr table? I cant seem to find it in the manual. I can only find it in the adv fuel trims tab. Most maps I have seen do not a have a value in it however mine has a negative correction at low Throttle %
The *throttle inj corr* is a correction factor that is based against what percentage the TPS is open. What you have along the bottom axis is the percentage of the TPS i.e 0% closed, 100% fully open. (p.s make sure you have the tps setup properly)
You then add the extra correction trim if you find that the more fuel is needed on slight opening of the throttle.
Most supra's are ok with this all set to 0 but i most of the time find myself tweaking it to the engine characteristics
never seen one you need to pull fuel though unless it has a wild Acceleration enrichment setup.
I must add also that the aem ecu is not really an ecu i would want to be playing with when trying to play with ECU's and using other peoples settings on your car etc is only a reciepe for Disaster.
Ryan
rpslaughter1982
24-12-07, 12:08
The *throttle inj corr* is a correction factor that is based against what percentage the TPS is open. What you have along the bottom axis is the percentage of the TPS i.e 0% closed, 100% fully open. (p.s make sure you have the tps setup properly)
You then add the extra correction trim if you find that the more fuel is needed on slight opening of the throttle.
Most supra's are ok with this all set to 0 but i most of the time find myself tweaking it to the engine characteristics
never seen one you need to pull fuel though unless it has a wild Acceleration enrichment setup.
I must add also that the aem ecu is not really an ecu i would want to be playing with when trying to play with ECU's and using other peoples settings on your car etc is only a reciepe for Disaster.
Ryan
Cheers for the info. I'm not really modding the ECU much but just trying to understand it better. The map I am looking at I paid £400 quid for and it was rubbish and dangerous. It soon to be properly mapped ;) I'm just looking at the idle really.
My car has a negative value so it is leaning the car out at low throttle, another dodgey discovery.
From the AEM forum it looks like it is used in boost comp maps.
I did some research on the AEM forum too and they say its not good to use on turbo cars as you can get high load situations on part throttle.
rpslaughter1982
10-01-08, 23:33
just thought I'd link this thread to another one I did in case anyone is following this one - http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=135657
Nearly time to go to AFR, I'm getting quite excited, I really hope there's no drama :blink:
Just thought I'd update this thread :)
Couple of issues with this car, one of which was fluctuating boost and poor boost control. I believe I have found the cause, the diaphragm inside the wastegate was kinked along one edge where it rests against the wg body. This meant that the plunger could not freely move up and down. I will post a pic when I get a minute.
So, have spoken to Joe at PHR and we are arranging for a new wastegate to come.
Second problem that has developed is causing some head scratching. When the engine is up to operating temp, the engine will occasionally stall. I held the revs at 2k to see if it would do it again and yes it does, the revs drop by 500rpms or so, the engine stumbles for a second and then it's fine again. Even more strangely, if you watch the AEMPro software, it almost seems as if it completely pauses for a split second !
Very odd. I going to try the AEM in my car tomorrow morning, rule out the ECU first. Then I will break out the oscilloscope and start testing crank\cam sensors etc etc. Will also check wiring to the ECU, especially earths and so on. Tis a strange one though :confused:
Otherwise the car is coming along fine, all mapped to low load so just the power runs to do. Just need to sort out the boost control and this electrical fault :)
PHR street kit with delivery and vat about £2300
Decat pipes £25.75
AEM + 3.5bar sensor + walbro fuel pump + Aeromotive FPR £1666.15
IK24s X 2 sets (fouled the first lot) £140
HKS DLI £256.73
injectors £250
fuel proof o-rings £9
Gaskets, fuel+oil filter + coolant £160
Silicone hosing £47
FPR fitting kit £105
Exhuast welding £100
Misc clips, wiring £20
various oil changes £150
a crap map that needs re-doing £400
somewhere around £5855 total and not finished yet
:blink:I'd be well pleased with that!!I wish I was a welder!!:(My manifold and exh. came to about3g!!
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