ATF,done the searches & more confused than ever

I have been searching and reading the various threads regarding ATF and seen this also: http://www.scionlife.com/misc/tc003t99.pdf

But when I checked my fluid I noticed that the dipstick has "Dextron II" embossed on it. From what I have read Dextron should never be used. Wasn't really thinking to carry out a full flush so now I have no idea what fluid to use. Was hoping to drop the fluid in the sump and then top up. The box still has the fluid it came into the uk with so obviously I dont know what type it is.

My local gearbox place said that Dextron is fine and if they were to re-build these transmissions they would only use dextron and when I told them about valves clogging and other bits I have read on here they dissmissed it completely!

What do you guys reckon?

Use the Toyota stuff.... Less chance of problems!

Or use Amsoil synthetic ATF - Its spec is a direct replacement to Toyota ATF and will live longer, take heat better without burning & hopefully protect the box & clutch packs better?

Only use Toyota type IV fluid, other grades of fluid can mess with your auto box, make gear changes slow etc.

Dextron II is fine if you could still get it, this is what was reccomended originally if I remember correctly!! I used dextron III in my car for 3 yrs before I went for a ful flush and never had problems, I would stick with whatever was in there before tbh

Only use Toyota type IV fluid, other grades of fluid can mess with your auto box, make gear changes slow etc.

Thing is, if you read the Toyota service brief it clearly shows that you shouldn't mix Dextron with Type IV. If mine has been filled with Dextron as the dipstick would suggest, then according to the service bulletin I shouldn't use the type iv.

..But when I checked my fluid I noticed that the dipstick has "Dextron II" embossed on it.

DextronII is fine for the n/a

It's only the TT gearbox that needs TypeIV;)

DextronII is fine for the n/a

 

It's only the TT gearbox that needs TypeIV;)

Ok thanks for that. So as Dextron II is no longer available I can use Dextron III ? Also how much more power can the NA gearbox take before I run into problems? If for example I went NA-T am I going to have problems with my transmission, especially if it's using Dextron?

Shouldn't think it would be too bad. Dextron III is supposed to be decent stuff and i have seen cars running 350bhp through auto boxs with DIII in them.

m.

the only reason why that only toyota type iv recomended is because toyota will not release the oil spec so no other oil company will stick there heads out and say so,so oils will do the same job:( . i use dexron III in my car and have had no issues this is the way i see things- if dexron III is good enough for £120,000 crash tenders running over 800bhp then its good enough for my measily little car.

the only reason why that only toyota type iv recomended is because toyota will not release the oil spec so no other oil company will stick there heads out and say so,so oils will do the same job:( . i use dexron III in my car and have had no issues this is the way i see things- if dexron III is good enough for £120,000 crash tenders running over 800bhp then its good enough for my measily little car.

OK great thanks. But are we saying that it will be ok to use Dextron III as a top up after a sump drop mixed with whatever is in my box now? Or should I do the whole flush drain thing which TBH I wasn't planning on doing just yet?

i won't recommend mixing of oils so if you just worried about top ups then just buy the correct oil. also i cannot recommend any other oil apart from type iv. but just saying that i'm using dexron III in my box and have had no problems. hope i covered myself:d

OK cheers, think I will have to do a complete drain via the cooling hoses and then fill up with new fluid once I have decided what to use. There is no point in me losing the sump 1 litre or so and then topping up with Typeiv, Dex2 or 3 as I have absolutely no idea what is in there already. Spose it come with the territory of buying a jap import with no service history... At present I have nice tight changes and the fluid on the dipstick appears red and clean, so I can research it a bit first before deciding. Thansk for the advice, will let you know how I get on.

OK cheers, think I will have to do a complete drain via the cooling hoses and then fill up with new fluid once I have decided what to use. There is no point in me losing the sump 1 litre or so and then topping up with Typeiv, Dex2 or 3 as I have absolutely no idea what is in there already. Spose it come with the territory of buying a jap import with no service history... At present I have nice tight changes and the fluid on the dipstick appears red and clean, so I can research it a bit first before deciding. Thansk for the advice, will let you know how I get on.

You wont do a full flush like that, a hell of a lot gets held up in the torque converter which wont drain.....only way to do it is to release one of the cooling hoses and empty into a litre at a time into a bucket and tip away and repeat until as much is out as possible, you then need two people...one under the car holding the bucket, the other in the car.

the person in the car switches on and slips it into drive pumping the fluid through the box and out trhough the hose thats not attached....the person holding the bucket measures a litre at a time and gives you the signal tio switch off when a litre is out, you then top up with a litre of fresh oil and repeat the process over and over a litre at a time until the stuff coming out is the same colour as the stuff going in....you will need around 12litres if I remember rightly!!

Very complicated, and not entirely effective as you are adding clean fluid to the sump. It is much easier than that and a one person job.

Use the pump to do the work for you. Maintain the circuit with one end of the system in an empty container and one in Fresh type IV ATF. One litre more than required should complete a full fluid change.

There is evidence that some MKIV TT auto boxes had problems with Dex III due to a reaction with the little blue spheres in the oil wells. Dex III cause them to swell and stick. Whether all auto boxes have the type of plastic that reacts to DEX III is unkown. Just because on persons experience is positive does not mean that all will be. Not worth the potential risk, for a few £.

Phil, it is a n/a box we're talking here

Phil, it is a n/a box we're talking here

Not trying to mislead. Unless the N/A box has no cooler the method still applies. Just use your chosen fluid. Just to clarify, type IV fluid comments apply to TT auto's only.

You wont do a full flush like that, a hell of a lot gets held up in the torque converter which wont drain.....only way to do it is to release one of the cooling hoses and empty into a litre at a time into a bucket and tip away and repeat until as much is out as possible, you then need two people...one under the car holding the bucket, the other in the car.

 

the person in the car switches on and slips it into drive pumping the fluid through the box and out trhough the hose thats not attached....the person holding the bucket measures a litre at a time and gives you the signal tio switch off when a litre is out, you then top up with a litre of fresh oil and repeat the process over and over a litre at a time until the stuff coming out is the same colour as the stuff going in....you will need around 12litres if I remember rightly!!

Yes, thanks Mikey, realised that. hence why I said doing it via the cooling hose. Have read loads of threads about doing it and that various methods. I did something very similar on my last autobox fitted to my 635 and replaced the filters while I was at it. But in this case my questions were related to the types of fluid and trying to avoid mixing them as well as the Dextron ii and iii thing as well. I had read in other threads that dextron should never be used in our types of boxes and then discovered that my dipstick had dextron embossed into it suggesting otherwise. So, with all this information I guess the only way to be sure is to play safe and buy 15 litres of type iv and do the complete drain. That being the case it will probably have to wait now as I realy don't want to be doing this outside at this time of year.

Interesting thread this one.

Firstly Dexron II is still available, I have them on the shelf!

Secondly Dexron III is in fact backwardly compatible and I have never had any problems when supplied to Customers.

Finally the Amsoil ATF is a fully synthetic one and as such will be better than a standard D II or D III, it is rated as a D III though.

Cheers

Simon

Yes, thanks Mikey, realised that. hence why I said doing it via the cooling hose.

oooops didnt see that

Finally the Amsoil ATF is a fully synthetic one and as such will be better than a standard D II or D III, it is rated as a D III though.

 

Cheers

Simon

I have been using this in my BL gearbox for a little while now and it seems to be holding up just fine.

Not cheap though at almost £50 for 5L

Interesting thread this one.

 

Firstly Dexron II is still available, I have them on the shelf!

 

Secondly Dexron III is in fact backwardly compatible and I have never had any problems when supplied to Customers.

 

Finally the Amsoil ATF is a fully synthetic one and as such will be better than a standard D II or D III, it is rated as a D III though.

 

Cheers

Simon

Blimey, thought this had dead ages ago....

OK so what you are saying then is that not knowing what I have in my transmission as sold to me I would be safe to use Dex iii as a partial change. i.e. drop the litre or so in the sump and then top up with Dextron iii or Amsoil? How much a litre for the Amsoil? Happy to take your advice on this as you are in the industry, but it does go against what has been stated on this forum previously, which is why I asked first;)

You'll find the Club prices on the Amsoil in the members section of our website here: http://www.opieoils.co.uk being American it comes in quarts not litres.

Cheers

Simon