View Full Version : Blitz Twin Turbo Installation
As some of you may be aware I bought a Blitz twin turbo kit a couple of weeks ago and seeing as there's not many of these kit's about I thought I would do a complete step by step write up of the installation.
To start of with, I'll explain about the kit. The kit consists of two KKK450R turbo's, which I'm told are 61.5mm turbo's with a .73 hotside (thanks Usmann A!)*Edit* Just found some more info on these turbo's.
Compressor wheel inducer dia = 54.9
Compressor wheel ex dia = 76.2
Compressor housing inlet dia = 70
Compressor housing ex dia = 60
Turbine Wheel inducer dia = 64.4
Turbine wheel ex dia = 54.6
Exhaust Flange = K26
Taken from here:- http://www.blitz.co.jp/products/turbokit/turbo-charger.htm
Here's a couple of pics:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0820Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0827Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0828Large.jpg
Further information about these turbo's seems to be very difficult to come by.
The kit also comes with exhaust manifold or header, which is a tubular steel construction. There has been much said as to wether this will, in the future crack due to the unsupported weight of the turbo's. To safe-guard against this, I'm planning to create a brace that will bolt onto a stud welded onto the manifold, and the stock brace location on the engine.
Lastly the kit comes with a pair of Blitz D47D wastegates. Initially these appear to be set-up to open about 1.3Bar, but there is a nut on the top which will allow some fine adjustment of this.
Everything else will need to be fabricated. This includes the downpipe, air inlet pipe (from air filter) and the turbo outlet pipie (to the intercooler)
One last thing that does not come with the kit, and requires to be made, is the oil feed and return lines to the turbo's, and also wastegate actuation lines (ie from the compressor housing) All of these lines I will be making myself using off the shelf aeroquip components.
In terms of goals, I'm aiming for a healthy 600 - 650 bhp, which will be an easy 275 - 300 bhp increase in what I currently have. I know these turbo's can create in excess of 800 bhp, however my desire for engine longevity, and a restrictive budget means that I won't be able to aim for these kind of high figures in the short to medium term.
As far as how I'm going about the complete installation, I'm basically breaking it down into 8 distinct stages. They are:-
1. Strip stock sequential turbo's.
2. Pre-fit Blitz twin turbo's.
3. Fabricate downpipe, IC pipe, turbo air inlet pipe/ turbo brace.
4. Strip Blitz twin turbo's down and send away for ceramic coating/polishing
5. Strip stock fuel system.
6. Install custom fuel system.
7. Final fit Blitz twin turbo's.
8. Engine mapping.
Unfortunately I don't get much time to work on the car, so am only able to work on it at the weekends. That said, I'm hoping to have the car finished in about 8 weeks.
So to start off with here's how to strip the stock turbo's.....
Tools you'll need:-
You won't need any particular specialist tools, just a good 1/2" and 3/8" socket set with both normal and deep 12mm/14mm and 17mm sockets. A couple of 6 inch extensions wouldn't go amiss, as well as a universal joint for the 1/2" drive, a breaker bar, and a lot of WD40! A good set of spanners ranging from 10mm to 17mm, a set of axle stands and a jack would be useful too.
So to start off with, safety first, we'll remove the battery negative terminal:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0855Large.jpg
Next you'll want to drain the coolant. I didn't do this, and regretted it later when it caught me out by surprise, so a word from the wise... do it now!
Next you want to disconnect both the cruise control actuator cable and tuck it out of the way:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0856Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0857Large.jpg
and then do the same with the accelerator cable. I tucket it along the firewall:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0858Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0859Large.jpg
Next remove the air inlet duct:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0862Large.jpg
Loosen the jubliee clip around the hose from the air box to the turbo inlet and remove the hose. (It will take some jiggling to do this!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0860Large.jpg
Your engine bay should now look like this:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0863Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0864Large.jpg
Next undo the three bolts fixing the air box, and remove it (Not you can see the duct that feeds cold air into the air box from the bumper):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0866Large.jpg
Next you'll need to get under the car. So now's a good time to jack the car up. Ensure the car's on a level base, and jack the car up using the jacking points that can be found here:-
http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=44357&highlight=jacking+points
OK so with the car jacked up, you need to remove the catalytic convertor. To do this there's a couple of brackets and things that you need to remove to give you enough space to get the catalytic convertor out. So first of all you want to remove this brace. There's 2 bolts at the rear and 1 at the front which I had to use the breaker bar to undo:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0869Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0870Large.jpg
Just above the brace, you'll find this bracket. Undo the 4 bolts and remove it:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0871Large.jpg
Next you need to remove this bracket:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0872Large.jpg
To get to the bolts for this bracket I had to temporarily remove both the clutch inspection covers, you can clearly see the bolt hole for the inspection cover, and the top of the bolt for the catalytic convertor bracket. There's 1 bolt on either side of the gearbox:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0873Large.jpg
The last bolt for the bracket is one of the mating bolts for the cat/exhaust itself. Undo this and the bracket should now come away:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0874Large.jpg
If you now undo the other bolt that's holding the cat to the exhaust, and then undo the three bolts at the top of the catalytic convertor, the car should come away fairly easily. Remember there's a catalytic convertor temp probe attached. We'll remove this in a bit. Here's a pic of the downpipe with the catalytic convertor removed. You can see the three fixings. If these are difficult to undo, use plenty of WD40 and leave overnight. Luckily, mine weren't too bad...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0879Large.jpg
By this point you've probably got fed up of lying under the car, so let's get out from under there and undo some stuff on the top.
The toyota manual says to remove the harness protector at this point. It says to remove two bolts, but I'll be damned if I can find the one near the drivers side. So I undid the one on the passengers side and left it at that.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0882Large.jpg
Now comes the bit that I found a real pain. Removing the air lines over the top of the turbo's.
First of all you need to remove the water by-pass hose, if you've not drained the coolant system yet, do it before you undo this, or get plenty of paper towels to soak up the coolant as you undo it:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0883Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0884Large.jpg
Next unclip both of the connectors to the vsv's and move the loom right out of the way:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0885Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0886Large.jpg
Next you need to remove the hard piping accross the top of the turbo's. IF you remove all the hoses to the VSV's and undo the 2 bolts (IIRC?) You've done the easy bit.
Now if you follow the hard piping accross the top of the turbo's towards the back of the engine you'll find 4 lines going down the back of the 2nd turbo near the bulkhead. You need to undo all 4 of these. Don't worry if you struggle because the clips are facing the wrong way or just difficult to remove, I did too! In the end I beat it by using a pair of pliers on the clip, and a screwdriver pushed up against the end of the hose, and pushing hard with the screwdriver whilst I compressed the clip with the pliers. A real pain, but once those last 4 hoses are undone you can remove the hard-piping:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0887Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0892Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0894Large.jpg
Next if you remove the wastegate actuator VSV by undoing the 2 bolts and undo the hoses to the wastegate actuator which are on the front of the number 1 turbo. The grey connector attached to the bracket is for the stock narrow band o2 sensor. If you undo this from the backet by using a small flat bladed screw driver where it's clipped on:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0896Large.jpg
You should end up with a bit that looks like this:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0897Large.jpg
OK next if you remove the water hoses to the turbo. If you've not drained your engine coolant by now, you're about to one way or another. I strongly suggest you do it via the rad, and not by just undoing this hose. After all that would be a school boy error. :taped: :blush:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/108_0899Large.jpg
Undo the other 2 hoses as well:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0901Large.jpg
Next you want to remove the bolt to the upper water hose. I had to go a bit off-plan here as I had a non-stock dump-valve, so I removed that first. Anyway you can see the bolt you need to get to here. It's the blurred one in in the middle:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0903Large.jpg
Next undo the vent hose:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0904Large.jpg
and loosen all of the jubilee clips that you can get to on the top:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0905Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0911Large.jpg
Great write-up Tony.
That coolant hose from the rear of the cylinder head that goes to the heater matrix is a right bugger to get off. Getting it back on is damn near impossible.
After 20mins I gave up trying to the fit the OE sprung clip back on and used a jubilee clip instead.
90o Pliers will do the trick. Went out and got them for that very job one apon a time.
Some great pics there Tony.
Next if you undo the nuts holding the no.1 turbo inlet hose, and the bolts holding the no.1 turbo outlet hose, and the nuts to the no.2 turbo inlet hose:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0909Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0907Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0912Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0914Large.jpg
Now with a large amount of wriggling the no.1 and no.2 turbo inlet pipe and the no.1 outlet pipe (and maybe an extra hand) you should be able to remove the inlet pipe. (It took me a quite a bit of wriggling, and I couldn't describe the exact way, but perservere and you'll get it!):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0915Large.jpg
You're engine bay should now look like this:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0917Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0918Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0921Large.jpg
Now you can go ahead and remove the rest of the turbo outlet pipes right up to the no2 turbo outlet:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0923Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0924Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0925Large.jpg
Now your engine bay should look like this:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0926Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0928Large.jpg
Next if you undo the four bolts holding the heat shield and remove it:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0927Large.jpg
Notice how I placed paper towel into the turbo inlet's. Don't want anything getting in there and damaging them for the next potential owner ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0929Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0930Large.jpg
Just one for those who hadn't seen it before, but to the lower right of the turbo you can see the wastegate actuator:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0931Large.jpg
OK next it's time to remove the stock 02 sensor:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0934Large.jpg
This is what mine looked like after 100K miles of use:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0938Large.jpg
As I'm not going to be using this sensor with the twin kit, I decided to completely remove it:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0941Large.jpg
The grey connector I spoke of earlier:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0939Large.jpg
O2 sensor and loom:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0942Large.jpg
I may well keep the bracket, and cut the grey connector off the o2 sensor, and wire it up to my EGT probe so it will work with the stock loom.
The next bit was as much of a pain as getting the hoses off earlier.... :(
Removing the Exhaust gas control valve. This sounds a very simply thing to remove. There's a bracket which has a bolt and a nut to undo, and then there's 3 bolts, and the whole assembly "should" just come away.
I spent about 10 minutes trying to get a photo of the 3 nuts. Unfortunately my digi cam is an SLR, and it's a little large for getting into tight spaces. I managed to get a picture of this nut underneath:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0949Large.jpg
And you can just make out a second nut in the gloom of this pic. There was no way I could get to this bolt from underneath. The stud for the o2 sensor is just below the stud for this nut, so I couldn't use a socket, so get at it from the top use a spanner and a breaker bar to leaver the spanner to get it to budge. Not the best way to undo things but needs must:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0943Large.jpg
There's a 3rd nut 120degree's around the pipe. To get this undone I used a 14mm 1/2" drive socket with a universal joing and about 9" of extension bars. It was a real pain, but it came off in the end.
Onec the bolts are undone the assembly comes apart in 2 sections:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0952Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0953Large.jpg
Be careful not to drop or bang the second section if you're looking to keep the valve as apparently the valve is ceramic.
Here you can clearly see the bolt arrangement.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0955Large.jpg
Managed to do a little bit more this evening.....
The next step is to remove the turbo support brackets. There's two of them, here's a pic of the no.2 turbo stay:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0965Large.jpg
and this was the best shot I could get of the number 1 turbo stay upper fixing. I had to get to this by reaching up in front of the steering rack:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0959Large.jpg
No word of a lie, this is what I used to get these un-done. Really I could have done with a deep 14mm socket due to the length of the stud, but I didn't have one for 1/2"drive, and only had enough extensions for 1/2", I loosened the socket so it wasn't fully clipped onto the universal joint, and it just about managed to work:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0961Large.jpg
Here's the number 1 turbo stay removed:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0960Large.jpg
and number 2:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0969Large.jpg
Next I removed the oil feed/return for both turbo's. This was a real pain of a job, as again I had to use a ridiculous number of extensions to get to the nuts on the bottom of the turbo. Here's where it joins onto the bottom of the number 2 turbo (the easy one to get to!):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0972Large.jpg
Here's where the feed from on the engine block is. I used a 19mm socket to remove it. Make sure you put some towel under this banjo bolt as you undo it, as there was still quite a bit of oil in this pipe:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0973Large.jpg
I just about managed to get this pic of the oil feed banjo bolt for the no.1 turbo. Sorry for the quality, but it's a real tight squeeze! For reference This was taken from just below and in front of where the steering column meets the steering rack:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0975Large.jpg
I really struggled with removing the turbo oil feed hoses. Basically, as you can see in this pic, you need to seperate the hoses where the metal hard lines meet the rubber hose. After 13 years of being in 1 piece these were a real pain to undo, and took me some amount of time. As I'm not going to be using the oil return housing I removed that at the same time. I took a few shots of the bore diameters for reference. I'll try to remember to take a rule with me next time and get some with it in for scale reference:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0981Large.jpg
Turbo inlet and return diameter:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0977Large.jpg
Oil return housing diameter:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0978Large.jpg
Got quite a bit done today.
Before removing the turbo , you need to undo both of these hoses. Again after 13 years of living in 1 piece it wasn't keen on being seperated, and was a real pain to try and seperate.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0983Large.jpg
Once both of those hoses are undone, you can remove the turbo outlet elbow (the bit that holds the turbo's on!) On a J-spec there's 6 bolts (3 on each turbo) but on a UK spec there's 4. They were very difficult to undo, and there's not enough space between the end of the studs and the exhaust manifold to get a socket on them so you have to use a spanner. I suggest using a decent ring spanner so you don't round the nuts off. That would be a real pain! Here's some pics of the 3 bolts on each turbo (There's 2 on the top and 1 on the bottom on no.1 turbo and vice versa on no. 2):-
1 on the bottom of no.1 turbo:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0985Large.jpg
2 on the top of no.1 turbo:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0986Large.jpg
1 on the top of no.2 turbo:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0987Large.jpg
2 on the bottom on no.2 turbo:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0984Large.jpg
With these undone, with a good deal of wriggling you should be able to remove the turbo assembly. Be careful they're quite heavy, and you don't want to scratch all the paint off the engine bay. I lined mine with towel to help protect it. Here's how it all looked once I'd got them off:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0988Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0989Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/109_0991Large.jpg
OK I got a bit excitable at this point and wanted to see what the Blitz kit would look like fitted. Bearing in mind I haven't got any of the gaskets, I put some tape on the mating faces and quickly threw it on. I'll need to put the gaskets on for the next step so it'll be coming off, but here's how it's going to look pretty much:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/110_1021Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/110_1025Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/110_1027Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/110_1030Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/110_1031Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/110_1032Large.jpg
Fitted my Chris Wilson intercooler today. Details can be found here:-
http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=73003
Did a lot more work today.
I wanted to clear up all the odds and sods that I won't be using, mainly the vsv pressure tank and the fuel pulsation dampener.
Although it's possible to remove these without removing the intake manifold, as I'm changing the injectors and fuel rail, I figured I may as well strip the intake side off, and get to these two items from above. If anyone wants to simply replace the injectors most of this will be applicable. Here's how to....
First of all remove the air hose from the throttle body:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1167Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1168Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1169Large.jpg
Next remove the following connectors from the throttle body:-
The throttle position connector:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1170Large.jpg
The sub-throttle position sensor connector:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1171Large.jpg
and the sub throttle acuator connector:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1172Large.jpg
Then remove the 4 fasteners that hold throttle body to the intake chamber. There's 2 bolts at the top:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1174Large.jpg
and 2 nuts at the bottom, which to get to you'll need an extension bar on your 12mm socket:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1173Large.jpg
With those undone, you can pull the throttle body away from the intake chamber. Remove the gasket:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1176Large.jpg
There's a few hoses that you need to remove from the throttle body before you can completely remove it.
The EVAP hose:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1177Large.jpg
The Water bypass hose from the no.4 water bypass pipe :shrug: You can see it here attached to the bottom of the throttle body, there's another water by-pass hose just behind it as well:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1179Large.jpg
Lastly you need to remove the power steering air hose:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1180Large.jpg
With those undone you can remove the throttle body:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1181Large.jpg
Here's what the intake chamber looks like with the throttle body removed:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1182Large.jpg
Next remove the dipstick and dipstick guide. If you've got an auto, you'll also need to remove the auto transmission oil dipstick and guide. I have a 6 speed so didn't need to do this. To remove the dispstick guide there's 1 bolt:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1184Large.jpg
Remove the fuel line from the clamp that is part of the dipstick guide, and then pull the dipstick guide upwards. It will pull away from the oil pan:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1186Large.jpg
Next remove the air intake chamber stay, and the throttle cable bracket, there's 1 bolt and 1 nut on the chamber stay, and two bolts on the throttle cable bracket:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1189Large.jpg
Next remove the idle solenoid control valve connector:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1190Large.jpg
Disconnect the turbo pressure sensor connector. I don't use the stock sensor, even though it is still attached to the intake chamber:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1191Large.jpg
Here's my AEM 3.5 bar MAP sensor, that I'm using instead:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1192Large.jpg
The manual for the UK says to remove the VSV for fuel pressure control, but this doesn't look like a VSV. I think it's the intake temp. sensor, which the UK spec doesn't have (mines a J-spec):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1193Large.jpg
Next remove the PCV hose from the VSV valve:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1195Large.jpg
I also have my Aeromotive fuel pressure regulator attached to the back of the intake chamber, which I had to remove:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1194Large.jpg
Next remove the Water bypass hose from the ISC valve to the no.4 by-pass hose. I found it a lot easier to actually remove the ISC valve from the intake manifold, and then disconnect the hoses there. There's 2 bolts for the ISC valve:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1197Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1205Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1206Large.jpg
There's a one way valve to prevent air blowing backwards through the ISC valve. Note the orientation for when you re-install:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1201Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1202Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1203Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1204Large.jpg
Next remove the EVAP hose from the vacuum pipe on the manifold stay:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1204Large.jpg
And the EVAP hose from the vacuum pipe on the no.4 water bypass pipe to the no.2 vacuum pipe, unfortunatey I didn't get a good pic of it, but it's the hose under the purple connector for my MAP sensor. Also in the pic is the Power steering air hose for the intake chamber, which also needs to be removed:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1207Large.jpg
Next remove the brake booster vacuum hose. There's a couple of copper washers, remove them too:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/111_1199Large.jpg
Next remove the EVAP hose from the charcoal cannister from the no.2 vacuum pipe:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1209Large.jpg
Next remove the no.4 water bypass pipe, there's 2 bolts:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1210Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1211Large.jpg
Next remove the intake manifold stay, there's 1 bolt at the top, and 1 at the bottom. I couldn't get a decent shot of the lower bolt. If you follow the stay down though, it's easiest to get to the lower bolt from under the car:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1212Large.jpg
Next remove the electrical wire clamp. This is a bit of a nightmare job, as there isn't lots of room between the end of the manifold and the firewall. If you use a short 12mm socket it will help for the second bolt. I used a 12mm spanner for the first bolt:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1214Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1213Large.jpg
Next remove the ground wire from the intake manifold, you can just make it out here:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1215Large.jpg
Next remove the bolt from the clamp that holds the diagnostic port:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1217Large.jpg
Next remove the 5 bolts and 2 nuts that hold the intake chamber on (There's another 2 bolts that I didn't manage to get pics of, they're right under the manifold, under the no.2 and no.5 runners) :-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1219Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1220Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1222Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1223Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1224Large.jpg
With those removed you can remove the intake manifold:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1225Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1227Large.jpg
You should be left with an engine bay that looks like this, remove the gasket for the inlet manifold:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1226Large.jpg
Next to remove the injector rail, first of all remove the stock fuel pressure regulator. As I've got an aftermarket one, it was just a case of removing the adaptor:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1232Large.jpg
Next remove all of the injector connectors. You may want to label them, but to be honest they'll pretty much only go on the injector they should go to as the loom points them in the right direction. Also remove the two camshaft position sensors:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1229Large.jpg
Next remove the fuel inlet pipe, place a towel under the union as you undo it to prevent fuel spillage:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1233Large.jpg
Remove the 6 bolts and the 3 injector holder plates:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1235Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1236Large.jpg
Next remove the 2 bolts holding the injector rail, the first pic is rubbish, sorry, but the bolt is the one in the middle:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1237Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1238Large.jpg
With those two bolts removed the rail should just pull off:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1239Large.jpg
Be careful to collect all the injector insulators, here you can see the one on the left was left on the manifold, whilst the one on the right came away with the rail:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1240Large.jpg
Here's what the rail looks like removed:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1241Large.jpg
You should now be left with something looking like this:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1242Large.jpg
That's it for if you're just replacing the injectors. I'll be fitting my new rail and injectors in a couple of weeks time, so I'll post up how to fit them. In the mean while I continued with cleaning up the bits I wanted to remove.
To get to the pressure cannistor and the fuel pulsation dampener I decided to remove the inlet manifold runners.
To do this first of all unbolt the pressure cannistor, and remove the two hoses for the VSV, and the two hoses to the actual cannistor, here you can just make out the VSV, there's a bolt either side that you need to undo:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1244Large.jpg
With that undone, next undo the 2 bolts holding the wiring loom:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1230Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1231Large.jpg
and the bolt holding the fuel inlet pipe:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1234Large.jpg
With that done, it's just a case of undoing the 8 fasteners holding the inlet runner on:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1247Large.jpg
And then you can remove the pressure cannistor:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1246Large.jpg
And you should be left with this:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1248Large.jpg
Next to remove the fuel pulsation dampener, I chose to undo the line from the filter to the dampener, as this is going to be replaced anyway:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1257Large.jpg
There's 2 bolts holding the fuel pulsation dampener. They were done up real tight:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1253Large.jpg
With them undone, you can remove the fuel pulsation dampener:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1254Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1255Large.jpg
And that was pretty much it for today!
Cleaned up the inlet manifold runners today.
Remember before:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/112_1247Large.jpg
After:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1408Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1405Large.jpg
With the powerhouse racing fuel rail and a couple of injectors fitted:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1409Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1410Large.jpg
Am quite pleased with it if I say so myself :)
How did you clean the runners up that well?
-Ian
Well it was a fantastic day, so I thought I'd do some more work out on the car, although didn't get much done as I kept going inside to get a drink and getting distracted by the racing on the tele.
Anyway, I basically spent some time today starting to tidy up a few odds and sods seeing as hopefully I should have the remaining bits I've been waiting for this week, and will be able to install them the coming weekend.
I removed the fuel regulator, which was attached solely by the return hose:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1424Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1412Large.jpg
Then I removed the fuel filter, there's the two bolts holding the filter on, the earth cable, and of-course the captive connector for the supply hose. Note the cross section of the supply. This is being replaced with a -8 line:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1426Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1428Large.jpg
I also removed the fuel filter mounting bracket, as I'm going to need to fasten the aeromotive filter that's replacing the stock filter somehow, so will need to fabricate some kind of bracket.
The keener eyed ones amongst you, would have noticed that I've not removed the catalytic convertor completely yet. This is because the temp probe's fixing bolts (Note, I don't think UK cars have this) were 9/10's of the way to being completely rounded off. I had to remove the temp probe anyway, so figured I'd disconnect the probe which goes into the cabin via a grommet in the floor, and remove the whole lot in one go.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1434Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1433Large.jpg
To do this, first of all I removed the drivers foot rest:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1446Large.jpg
Then the kick panel and lower door trim:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1445Large.jpg
Then if you pull the carpet back from the front of the centre consol, you'll see this connector:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1449Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1451Large.jpg
If you disconnect this, and then follow the loom down to the floor, you'll find this grommet:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1453Large.jpg
If you push this grommet through the bottom of the floor using a screwdriver, you should then be able to pull the loom through, and then completely remove the catalytic convertor:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1454Large.jpg
Here you can see the grommet. I'll need to find a standard one of these to block the hole back up:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1455Large.jpg
Parts all starting to roll in at last! Still waiting on Gaskets and Flanges though, although I shouldn't think they'll be long now.
Anyway here's the filter I bought, what's your thought's chaps?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1486Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1490Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1487Large.jpg
And the last few parts for my fuel filter assembly came in today :nana:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1501Large.jpg
No fuel leaking onto me when I have to strip it down and replace the filter :cool: :eyebrows: :-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1503Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1504Large.jpg
I also stripped the stock fuel lines and test fitted the -8 feed and -6 return lines on my day off yesterday. I then had to strip them back out to make the lines up, which I did tonight at work. They're being pressure tested at just over twice their maximum working pressure (150psi) tomorrow morning. When I get 5 minutes I'll post up pics.
It's mahooosive. The whole assembly is 17inches long. :blush:
It fit's like a peach into the existing bracket too.
Just an update on this.
Nothing has really gone on the car as I'm still waiting for parts to arrive. Mainly some banjo fittings to connect the fuel hoses through the fuel hanger, and also the gaskets and flanges for the turbo's. The good news is that I've got half of the gaskets, and have decided to make the remaining flanges myself. (Having a CNC machine shop at your disposal is a godsend!)
Other than that, I've started making up the fuel lines, and pressure testing them. It's quite a lengthy process, as they have to be the right length, and they all have to be pressure tested to twice the working pressure.
The injectors came back a while ago from flow testing and cleaning. A company I can quite happily recommend for doing this is HGL Motors. http://www.injectorcleaning.co.uk/
The injectors I've got are Siemens Deka 3105 low impedance. They're sold as 875cc, but actually flowed 888cc at 3 bar.
The pre and post clean results are as below. Note the values are for the amount of time given above each column, and should be converted to minutes to get meaningful values:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1507Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1508Large.jpg
Other things happening, well the fuel filter assembly sticks below the car too much. This is a problem but is easily cured by replacing the upstream straight dry break with a 45degree dry break.
I've also made the oil fittings that bolt to the turbo's and join to the block. I've got to make the oil-lines up this week and get them pressure tested.
I'm hoping that in the next 2-3 weeks I'll get the remaining bits and then within a couple of weekd of that, it should all be in a state where I can send it off to get the pipes fabricated.
I'm still hoping that everything should be finished this side of winter, but we'll see.
Right,
I've done loads of work of late, and hadn't had a chance to write it up so here goes...
OK I mentioned that the fuel filter assembly was hanging too far below the car, well I replaced the up-stream fitting with a 45 deg one. The problem with this was that once you've done that, the hose fouls the floor of the car. :rolleyes:
To get around this I disassembled the quick release and then using a blow torch heated the fitting up and bent it to the correct angle. It didn't need much. You need to disassemble it first, as there are rubber seals in there which would melt otherwise. This is what it now looks like:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1544Large.jpg
You can see the evidence of where I heated it up here:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1545Large.jpg
I did put some rubber between the filter and the mount originally, but after thinking about it, I removed it, as the filter should really be grounded. Here is a picture of the filter fitted. Notice the ground strap will go to the bolt hole on the bracket to the left of the picture:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1546Large.jpg
I did put some rubber between the filter and the mount originally, but after thinking about it, I removed it, as the filter should really be grounded.
This is how low the end of the filter sits now:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1574Large.jpg
I started to fit the hose the plumbs into this, but I haven't finished modding the fuel pump hanger yet, so will post up the rest of that when that's done (hopefully for next weekend)
So with that sorted I pre-fitted the fuel rail and the injectors, with the main aim being to get the hose from the y-piece on the downstream side of the filter to the rail the correct length's.
I spent quite a lot of time routing the hoses so that they're not coming into contact with any of the remaining stock hoses, or anything that is likely to get hacked through by rubbing against the steel braid.
Here's what it looked like:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1547Large.jpg
Next I wanted to sort out the length of the line from the return on the rail to the FPR.
My FPR will be mounted off of the back of the inlet manifold (where it was mounted before the install) This meant that I had to re-fit the inlet manifold.
I sandlblasted the inlet manifold clean at work a while ago, and couldn't get into the guts of it to get the sand out. So I soaked it in petrol and sloshed it around and then using a sponge cleaned the inside of it out. I was quite pleased with the results:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1613Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1614Large.jpg
With all the ancillaries fitted (Note I've re-fitted the stock pressure sensor, but as this isn't being used in my set-up, it'll soon be junked!):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1615Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1616Large.jpg
Anyway, here's the inlet manifold pre-fitted:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1619Large.jpg
Note the clearance to the fuel rail:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1621Large.jpg
And here's the FPR fitted:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1625Large.jpg
A work of art Tony. What make are the filter & rail?
Cheers.
The rail is powerhouse racing, and the filter is an Aeromotive with about £100 worth of Aeroquip fittings. :eyebrows:
Earlier I also tended to the turbo side.
These are the fittings that I've been waiting for 10 weeks for, along with the gaskets and other flanges:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1586Large.jpg
Notice the restriction:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1591Large.jpg
The thread on them were 3/8th's UNF. However the thread was absolutely shocking. So much so I thought they were something else. Not only me but a machinist with over 15 years of F1 experience, the guys at Mardi Gras motorsport at Silverstone (they thought it was some kind of Jap R series thread!) and the guys Trident motorsport at silverstone. In the end, one of the chaps at Earls got it right, and just used a bit of brute force and wound the 3/8th's fitting in :blink: :-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1589Large.jpg
So anyway, after that runaround :rolleyes: , here's the turbo inlet flange that the fit to:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1593Large.jpg
Next go's the gasket:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1594Large.jpg
And then the fitting:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1595Large.jpg
Also note in this shot you can see the flanges that come off the back of the turbo. The downpipes will eventually be welded onto these. They're fixed on with 4 M8x20 long cap head bolts, as are all of the oil feeds:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1597Large.jpg
I then made up one end of the oil line hose and fitted that so I could judge for the length of the line. I was going to go for a 45degree on the other end, but it looks like a straight will fit better. Anyway here's the hose fitted and the Boost logic blanket too:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1602Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1603Large.jpg
Just before I started to pack up for the night, I figured I'd take a look at the fuel pump ECU area, as I've got to start to think about mounting the twin relay's I've got for the pumps.
To get to the fuel pump ECU, you need to strip a bit of the rear interior.
First of all remove the rearmost panel. There are 5 (IIRC) screws hidden under little covers. Remove them with a flat bladed screwdriver or somesuch, and then remove the screws. The panel should come away, please forgive the state of the boot, but there's a lot going on in there at the moment!:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1607Large.jpg
Then you need to remove the LHS panel:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1608Large.jpg
To do this you first need to remove the strut brace cover. There's 3 (again IIRC) screws to undo this. Once that's removed, remove the screw holding the LHS panel. Before you completely yank this out of the car, you may want to undo the connector for the boot light ;) :-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1609Large.jpg
At this point I discovered why my fuel pump was running continuously when I keyed on. It's because JPS had done this to my wiring, I believe it's the 12V mod, but personally I would have preferred them not to have done it, as if I'd had an off, the fuel pump wouldn't have cut out and would have happily pumped petrol until the tank was empty. Cheers guys :rolleyes: :-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1612Large.jpg
That's about to where I got, today...
Nice scotchlok Tony ;) I know a few people who's cars pump runs continuously with the ignition on :(
Those turbos are a work of art, lots of caphead bolts :)
-Ian
It's sooo dangerous, it really riles me. I spent absolutely bloody ages trying to get the AEM to turn the pumps off as well, only to trace it back to this! Don't even get me started on the bloody skotchlok! I certainly never asked for it to be done, I think it might have been a band aid to help a poor idle.
Oh well at least now I know what it is and can take steps to sort it!
I must admit I'm pretty pleased with the turbo's myself. We pretty much only use CH bolts here at work in the aero dept. They pretty much only use NAS bolts on the car, but they're mucho expensivo.
I would say though that I'm a little suprised with quite a few of the gotcha's this kit offers. For example, quite a few of the studs for the exhaust manifold end up too close to the bottom of the exhaust runners and the nuts end up fouling either the runner, or foul the weld between the flange and the runner. For example:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1551Large.jpg
I'm not quite sure how I'm going to get around this. I'm going to have to get my fabricator to modify it somehow, but I really don't want to grind the runner, or more importantly the weld back, as it'll weaken the manifold. :( Any suggestions anyone?
Yes it does. And great thread mate!
Cheers mate, do you know which side of the compressor it goes? I'm guessing between the turbo and the IC right?
I'm not quite sure how I'm going to get around this. I'm going to have to get my fabricator to modify it somehow, but I really don't want to grind the runner, or more importantly the weld back, as it'll weaken the manifold. :( Any suggestions anyone?
To fit the BL manifold you angle grind the bottom studs themselves down by about 6mm (one of them a bit more). Still plenty of thread, just that funny end bit gets taken off. Not so sure about the weld though, maybe use 3/4 of a washer under the nut?
-Ian
flyin_scouseman
28-09-06, 09:28
Yeah that ^^ either get shorter studs or remove them with stud extractor and chop 'em down. Washers can either be filed or ground on the narrow edge so that you take a quarter off the total diameter of the washer.... almost leaving you with a C shape washer.
It just seems so rough to do that when the rest of the job is being done "right" though.
I'll see what can be done.....
Did a bit more work over the weekend. Mainly to do with sorting the last of the fuel hosing out. If anyone is planning on making up their own hoses, don't underestimate how much of a pain it can be!
Here's how you go about making your hoses up...
First of all buy some hose and fittings. I got mine from www.thinkauto.com
They're not bad in terms of price and deliver most things next day. If it's not there next day, then it usually means it's not in stock so it'll be a long weight. However that said, it's only the more obscure items like large banko fittings and the like that they struggle on.
Anyway, so get some hose. Install the bits that you want the hose to connect to, and using the hose measure up how long you want it to be. Make sure you give yourself enough length so that you can wind it around items (you don't want it chaffing!) but then you don't want it really tight. Here, I'm checking the length of the hose from the rail to the FPR. I've got the FPR end of the hose already connected up.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1644Large.jpg
Put some masking tape on the hose at the point you want to cut it. You NEED to do this, as you're going to have to hacksaw through the hose. If you don't have the tape (any heavy-ish duty tape will do I suppose) then the hose will fray, and you will never get the connector on:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1646Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1647Large.jpg
Then grip the hose horizontally with half the tape sticking out the side of the jaws, and then hacksaw through the tape, and the hose. When you're sawing through, you may feel the blade kind of cathing on the hose. You don't want it to do this, as it's pulling the braid out rather than cutting through it. If there is a little bit of fraying once you've cut through, you can trim it back with some sharp snips. Your hose once cut should look like this:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1648Large.jpg
Then get your connector. This is a swivelling 90 degree -6 JIC fitting. (The swivel bit means that once the hose is connected you can still rotate the fitting):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1652Large.jpg
It looks a bit gammy because it's been used before. These types of fittings are prefectly re-usable. Unscrew the hose fitting:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1653Large.jpg
And fit it over the end of the hose. The easiest way to do this is to place the hose vertically in a vice, with the jaws gripping the hose about an inch and a half below your cut. Then place the fitting on the end of the hose, and push down whilst rotating the fitting. With this particular fitting, I placed a 19mm socket over the top of it and using a t-bar pushed down on it using that. You need to push it ALL THE WAY DOWN, otherwise it will leak, and maybe pop off the hose when you pressurise it up. Here's the end fitting pushed on:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1654Large.jpg
Then mark the masking tape that's still sticking out right next to the fitting:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1656Large.jpg
You then take the rest of the fitting and using a spanner to hold the part of the fitting you've just put on, screw in the remaining part. It should be pretty difficult to do:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1658Large.jpg
As you're screwing it in, check that your pen mark doesn't move to far away from the first fitting. If it moves any further than this, then remove the second bit, push the first fitting back on, and start fitting the second bit again:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1659Large.jpg
Once you've done that, carefully using a knife, trim the tape back:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1660Large.jpg
Another type of fitting looks like this, it basically has three parts. The first fitting is the same as before, then there is the back bit that fits inside the hose, then the last bit screws into the first bit, but actually cuts into the rubber between the internal bore and the braded outer. This is how it seals:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1661Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1662Large.jpg
So as part of sorting the hoses out, I needed to remove the stock fuel hoses that run from the filter to the tank.
Now, be REALLY carefull here. Remember it is Petrol you're dealing with so take suitable precautions. (You don't want it in your eyes for example!) Don't say I didn't warn you....
So the first thing to do is to remove all the plastic trunking. It's held with a plethora of fixings. You'll need to undo them all ;)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1473.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1474.jpg
Once that's removed you'll be able to see the feed, return, breather and break lines:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1477.jpg
The feed and return lines are obvious as they're the only ones not connected to anything "upstream" anymore.
(note quite sure why the pics have suddenly got smaller. Sorry....)
Now go into the boot, roll back the carpet, and remove the board, and remove the spare wheel. You'll be confronted with this inspection cover:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1369Large.jpg
Remove the 6 nuts and then remove the inspection cover:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1371Large.jpg
Next remove the fuel pump and fuel level sender electrical connector:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1372Large.jpg
Then remove the return hose:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1373Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1374Large.jpg
Next remove the fuel tank breather hose:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1375Large.jpg
Next undo the banjo bolt from the feed hose. There's a copper crush washer on it:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1376Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1377Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1378Large.jpg
With that done, remove the large jubilee clip holding the retaining ring from the hanger assembly:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1380Large.jpg
Now remove the retaining ring. They're notoriously hard to undo. You'll probably have to resort to putting a screwdriver against one of the protrusions and hammering it round.
Once that's removed, you can carefully remove the hanger assembly:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1381Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1384Large.jpg
Here's the stock pump:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1386Large.jpg
The bits hanging off the assembly are the fuel level sender. Don't knock these otherwise it will read incorrectly.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1387Large.jpg
Here's what's inside your fuel tank, as well of fuel of course:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1383Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/113_1382Large.jpg
Now that the hoses are removed from that end you can remove them from the car completely. They're a right pain as they go over the sub-frame and suspension. I ended up bending mine quite a bit to get the things out.
Then you can feed your new hoses through:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1495Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1496Large.jpg
This is the hose fitting inbetween the tank and the tank shield. It's really a pain to fit it through here, but it will go:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1497Large.jpg
In fact a -8 and a -6 will just about fit in there:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1665Large.jpg
However there is a clip that used to hold the old return line, and holds a breather line. To help the hoses fit, I trimed this so that it was just holding the remaining breathre line:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1664Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1663Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1666Large.jpg
And here's my lines. As you can see the feed line is was still a little long at this point, but the return is just right. After I took this shot, I trimmed the feed line back:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1668Large.jpg
Other than that, I picked up a couple of bits that I'd sent off to be powder coated. I was quite pleased with the results:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1631Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1630Large.jpg
Oh, yes I almost forgot. I also started looking at wiring in the relays for the twin pumps.
I'm thinking of fitting a couple of new fuses in the engine fuse holder. So I removed the distribution board too see what kind of connector I would need.
As you can see there are plenty of spare slots in the bottom row of this pic:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1674Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1677Large.jpg
This is the connector I need to get, if anyone knows where I can find these exact same ones, please pm me:
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1678Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1684Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1687Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/116_1689Large.jpg
Cheers
OK for reference the part no. of the connector above is 82998-12140. They cost something like £2.50 each.
Anyway, did a little bit of work on the car today. Mainly wiring in the relays for the twin fuel pumps.
I started off by removing the fuel pump ECU as described above. Basically I'm not going to be using this for my install, so I'm going to mount the relays for the pumps where the fuel pump ECU usually can be found.
So anyway, here's the fuel pump ECU in all it's glory:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1707Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1706Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1704Large.jpg
Now to mount my relays, I'm going to rob the bracket off the back of this. It's spot welded on in 4 positions. To remove the bracket you need to drill out these welds with a 4.5mm drill bit. Once you've done that the bracket will just come away:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1708Large.jpg
There are 2 little protusions on the bracket that stop you from mating the bracket to anything flat, so I groung these off, and also tidied up the burr's on the holes I had drilled:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1709Large.jpg
For the relays I ordered 2 30Amp relays from Farnell. The part no. is RMD05012. However I needed a way to mount these, so I took a 90mm x 80mm piece of flat-stock CFRP, and drilled off a set of 4.5mm holes to suit the relays. I then lined up the bracket I had just salvaged and drilled 4 holes to line up with the ones on the bracket:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1711Large.jpg
Then it was just a case of riveting the bracket to the carbon using the drilled off holes, and then riveting the relays to the carbon. I decided to use rivets because if you want to use bolts then you have to bond some kind of nut to the carbon, unless you use a rivetted anchor nut, and if the relays ever fail, it's easy enough to drill the rivets out. Anyway:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1713Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1714Large.jpg
New posts copied to faq section.
Here's a bit more of an update.
As I mentioned I had to get the car trailored to get the remaining pipework to be done. For the entirety of this project the car has been sat on axle stands. Before I could drop the car off of the stands I had to re-fit a couple of parts. Namely the upper front crossmember extension:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1745Large.jpg
The bolts of which needed to be torqued to 29Nm and the nuts which needed to be torqued to 33Nm. I then re-fitted the front lower arm bracket stay:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1749Large.jpg
The bolts of which needed to be torqued to 44Nm and the nut to 59Nm. Here's what they look like re-fitted (excuse the fact that it's upside down, the flash caused shadows across the pic otherwise!) Notice lots of anti-sieze grease to help when removing these components in the future:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1756Large.jpg
Once that was done, I could drop the car back onto the wheels.
Before the pipework was to be fabricated, I wanted to make sure that everything that could be put back onto the car was, so that the guy knew where he could and couldn't run the pipework. So I fitted as many of the oil fittiings as possible. The actual oil lines aren't fitted as I will route these around the pipework once that's done, but at least by doing this he will know that there is going to be something there, and not leave me without any space to fit them. Here's the rear turbo oil feed fitting:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1789Large.jpg
I also fitted the hose from the heater matrix to the no2 water bypass hose (pipe running vertically through this pic:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1787Large.jpg
I also fitted the return fitting for the oil feed. This is usually done with a block that has a 45 degree fitting screwed into it with a hose fitting fitted to that. The reason for the 45 degree fitting is that you need to avoid a stud and nut that's on the power steering pump. As I didn't have a fitting for this, I made my own using 10mm thick aluminium. I cut the ally to using the stock return as a template. I wanted to guarantee that the fitting would end up in the right direction to clear the stud/nut, and have some control over where it was going to end up pointing, and as I was needed 2 feeds, I decided instead of the usual 45degree fitting to go for this little assembly:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1775Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1776Large.jpg
Which consisted of a M18 to -6 male to male convertor, with a M18 copper washer to prevent leaks. Then a -6/-6 male to -6 female 'T' going to a -6 straight to hose on one side and a -6 90 degree to hose on the other. It fitted a treat ;) (Note the stuf and nut directly below the fitting in this pic):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1779Large.jpg
When fitting this I also replaced the gasket which was part no. Y15472-46010.
I then had a bit of a decision to make. I never really liked the way that the two pipes on the water outlet are blanked off with a piece of hose that goes from one pipe to the other.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1727Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/114_1430Large.jpg
It never seems very professional to me. I had already decided that I was going to clean it up anyway, so I removed it by undoing the two bolts shown here:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1730Large.jpg
And undoing the clip to the rad hose:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1731Large.jpg
Then it's a case of pulling it off of the no.1 water bypass pipe. It's a bit tight as it's got a couple of rubber O'rings to stop it from leaking, but with a bit of waggling back and forth it soon came off. Here you can see the O'ring on the no.1 water bypass pipe.:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1733Large.jpg
With the water outlet removed, I then pulled the two pipes out using a pair of stilsons. This was quite easy for the first one but really hard for the second, but they did come out:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1735Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1739Large.jpg
With that done I then set about blanking the holes, and my Dad came through with some water blanking plugs that he uses at work. (Thanks Dad! ;) ) I also gave it a bit of clean-up in a sandblaster. Before doing this I decided to remove the two sensors. The larger one came out really easy. The smaller one... Boy what a pain in the arse this was! First of all the nut part of the connector rounded off, then when I tried to mole grip / stilson it out it disintegrated into about a million parts. So I tried to easy out the remainder, but as the metal was so soft, the easy out was just forming a reverse thread! SO I had to resort to drilling out the remaining brass and then re-tapping it. IIRC it was an 8.7 drill and a 3/8 BSP tap - the water temp sensor itself has a taper thread on it so I used PTFE tape when re-fitting. The part no. Y83420-20040, although there was an option of two, but this one seemed to fit OK.
Anyway here's the blanking plugs:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1780Large.jpg
You can see that they fit flush:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1781Large.jpg
The top sensor here was the one that gave me problems:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1782Large.jpg
And here's the water outlet re-fitted :) :-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1783Large.jpg
Other bits and bobs, well I fitted the engine hook on the exhaust side which you can see in the above picture. The bolts need to be torqued to 39Nm.
I also received a few bits back from the powder coaters. Here's the throttle control cable bracket:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1719Large.jpg
And with the rubber piece re-fitted (I used some WD40 on the rubber to help push it on):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1725Large.jpg
and the chamber stay:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1720Large.jpg
and also the inlet manifold stay:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1722Large.jpg
Here's the throttle control cable bracket and the chamber stay test fitted (the inlet manifold will be coming off again to final fit everything else under the manifold) :-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1744Large.jpg
Other than that I received the Air filter for the idle solenoid:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1716Large.jpg
And that is pretty much it. Hopefully if the weather holds for the next few days I'll be able to get some more done :rolleyes:
Cheers
Looking good sir. Are you not worried that -6 is a little small for oil return ??? :)
Nah, it's a -4 feed, and the restrictor hole in the Blitz supplied fitting as absolutely tiny (maybe 3mm max!) so basically twin -6's (although I agree it's going to a single -6 after the T) should be OK.
Here's the hole in the feed to the turbo:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/115_1591Large.jpg
Should be ok bud,
Usually most returns are a fair bit bigger even with restrictors for DBB to promote free flow.For reference most if not all after market feeds are -4 and that's on singles twins and DBB
Oil can get , for want of a better word, "whipped" up on exit of the return. You want the oil out of the turbo to get out as fast as possible in order to have fresh oil sitting on the bearing, hence the return should really be a "gravity or least resistance path" return instead of pressure. The stock system is a good indicator of this, that you took of, the return is much bigger than the feed. HKS twins for example also have the restrictor feed but the return is almost -10. Not a knock but just a highlight. :)
Top notch install, very neat and fantastic write up which will help loads of people out. keep up the good work :) :cool:. We need more like this!
I managed to get a chunk of work done on the fuel pump hanger assy as this has been sat on the side for quite some time now.
As I mentioned previously, a -8 90degree fitting will not fit under the fuel tank inspection cover. To get around this problem, I decided to use a -8 banjo fitting:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1798Large.jpg
The problem with this is that the WOTM fuel hanger isn't thick enough to be able to screw a banjo bolt in from one side and then an hose adaptor on the other side to connect to the pumps.
So to get around this, I machined the opening from 3/4 to 22.5mm OD and tapped it M24 x 1.5. I then machined a 25mm OD piece of steel bar so that it had a 24mm OD end the same thickness as the hanger and then cut an M24 x 1.5 thread onto that. I then drilled the centre of it 11/16" and then tapped it to 3/4-16 to fit the -8 fitting. :blink:
I could then screw this into the top of the hanger, which essentially extends the thread depth so that I could fit it all. In this pic you can see the metal boss (I'll try to get some better pics tomorrow):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1801Large.jpg
I also did the same thing for the return feed, but this time machined it to suit -6 rather than -8.
I then started to turn my attention to wiring the pumps in. As has been mentioned many times, the stock set-up isn't man enough to run two pumps at potentially 30amps each. The wiring gauge is nowhere near big enough. Another pain was the fact that the pigtail on the connector for the Walbro's I have aren't quite long enough.
So to sort this out I completely took apart the connectors for the pumps and the stock connector. I then stripped the wires from the terminals and re-crimped/re-soldered some wire rated to 35 amps.
I've connected the positives of both pumps to the stock bulkhead connector, and will connect the earths of both pumps to the hanger itself, which will in turn be earthed.
I didn't get any pics of the connectors dissassembled (there was a massive amount of effing and blinding!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1790Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/117_1792Large.jpg
I tested them out by running 12 volts through them, and the earths grounded to the hanger and it seemed to work pretty well. All I have to do now is to securely connect the earth's using a couple of nordlock washers (I really don't want them working loose!!! :eek:) and that's one job ticked off....
Managed to finish off the fuel pump hanger assembly today.
First of all, I wasn't happy with the way the wiring was installed. I'm extremely paranoid about wiring in the fuel tank. After all you only get one chance to get it wrong.
To ensure that there was no chance of any of the wires working loose or anything touching any bare wire and causing any kind of spark, I decided to pot all of the connectors using some 3M 2-pack glue (Can't remember the part no. of the stuff, but I'll find out and post it up)
Here's the wiring loom as it started off:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1805Large.jpg
You can see how the wiring is showing on this pump connector:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1806Large.jpg
And on this connector to the stock electrical connector:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1813Large.jpg
After glueing and spending an hour in an low heat oven to help cure the glue this is what it looked like:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1820Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1823Large.jpg
The ground wires were crimped, soldered then potted with glue:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1824Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1825Large.jpg
No big explosions for me then! :)
Next I set about finishing off the actual installation of the wiring loom.
At this point I got fed up with the stock bolts (some kind of imperial size, can't remember what) so I drilled and tapped them out to M5's for fixing the ground wires from the pumps to the hanger and M8's for fixing the ground wire from the hanger to the chassis.
I then assembled it all together:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1832Large.jpg
Here you can see the stock connectors with my new 35amp wiring:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1837Large.jpg
You can clearly see the extension piece I had to make to be able to fit the -8 male/male adpator and the banjo bolt to the top of the hanger:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1836Large.jpg
Here's how the ground wires were fixed. Don't worry the bolts aren't annodised so they will conduct fine. (I measured 1.6ohms from the power supply, through each pump and back to the hanger). I used nordlock anti-vibration washers under the ground wire bolts to prevent them from ever vibrating loose:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1828Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1827Large.jpg
Here's a pic of the top of the hanger with the banjo fittings I'm going to use. Obviously the centre is the fuel feed which is -8, the right hand side is the fuel return which is -6, and the lhs is the breather which again is -6:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1840Large.jpg
All in all, I would say there has been somewhere in the region of 15 hours work just in sorting this assembly, but I'm quite pleased with how it's turned out. Pity it had to be so modified and wasn't as it should have been from the shop. Oh well....
Anwyay I'll be fitting this along with the final installation of the fuel lines tomorrow :)
I finished the installation of the fuel pump assembly today.
I had a couple of issues though.
First of all, when I went to fit the banjo fittings after putting the pump assembly into position and fitting the retainer ring (here's a tip, if you're struggling to re-fit the retainer ring try running some grease on the thread. Not too much mind, you don't want to be getting it in the fuel tank!) I found that as the banjo fittings sit very close to the top of the retainer ring, they fouled it. So I had to relieve some of the upper portion of the ring around each fitting:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1871Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1872Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1873Large.jpg
I then found even when just using banjo fixings and not the 90 degree bends that I'd originally hoped to use, it still fouled the inspection cover. To get around this I initially tried turning down the head of the -8 feed bolt. But it still clashed with the inspection cover, so there was nothing else to do than grind a small hole into the top of the cover. By the time I'd finished it was a not so small hole. It's not very neat but it's got the job done. If I were doing it again, I would just drill a hole just big enough to fit the bolt head through. I also drilled a 6mm hole through the inspection cover and fitted a gromet for my ground strap to go through:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1877Large.jpg
I've fitted the ground strap to the ground point on the rear bulkhead. I've given myself enough cable so that I can tape it to the floor of the boot so it won't catch on anything:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1878Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1876Large.jpg
I also fitted the fuel feed up to the fuel filter and produced an exact list of components that I've used for my fuel line set-up that I'll post later.
OK so I set about finishing fitting all the fuel lines.
I can't stress how important it is that you route all the lines as safely as possible. I will be manufacturing a mount that I can attach a P bracket to that will be attached to the mounting points that the stock fuel hose cover bolts to. Once that's fitted I'll see if I need any further brackets to ensure that the lines are nice and secure and they won't get caught up on any road-debris. I couldn't get any decent pics of the routing, but basically you want to follow the stock routing as close as possible. I'll try to get some better pics when I mount all the support brackets.
Meanwhile, at the engine end....
The inlet manifold I fitted earlier was just to test-fit the lengths of the fuel lines. To final fit the lines, I had to re-strip the inlet manifold back off:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1881Large.jpg
I slightly removed the fuel rail as it's quite difficult to fit the return feed with it fitted in place. With the fuel rail removed I re-fitted the rear engine hanger (Torqued the bolts to 39Nm)
I then fitted the return feed. The return feed on my installation will drop between the number 3 and number 4 runners, under the inlet manifold, and then to the fuel pressure regulator, which will be mounted to the engine side end of the inlet manifold:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1882Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1884Large.jpg
Here's a pic of the PHR fuel rail mount, basically it's 2 right angled brackets that bolt to the stock location. Then there are 2 aluminium spacers that go between the brackets and the rail. You then put a bolt all the way through and put a nut on the bottom,
I used a couple of nordlock washers to make sure nothing would vibrate loose:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1885Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1886Large.jpg
I then fitted the crankshaft position sensor connectors:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1887Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1888Large.jpg
At this point I couldn't decide wether to fit pigtails to the injector looms or to get a plug in adaptor. I did initially decide to go for an adaptor but later decided to go for soldering the pigtails to the injector looms. I'll post pics up of that a bit later....
Anyway, in the meantime, I fitted the engine side fuel feed:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1897Large.jpg
And then set-about re-fitting the inlet manifold
When fitting the inlet manifold, the first hose to re-connect is the water bypass hose to the ISC valve, and the water bypass hose from the ISC valve to the No.4 water bypass pipe.
I found it was easiest to temporarily re-fit the no.4 water bypass pipe, with the bypass hose fitted (this fits up between the no.3 and no.4 manifold runners):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1898Large.jpg
Here you can clearly see the hose going up between the runners in the top right of the picture:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1899Large.jpg
I then connected both hoses to the ISC valve:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/118_1900Large.jpg
I then bolted the inlet manifold to the inlet runners. Fit a new gasket on and then tighten the 5 bolts and 2 nuts all to 27Nm. The manual does not state any specific order but I did them up evenly (it's good practice anyway):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1901Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1909Large.jpg
To get this centre bolt done, I undid the no.4 water bypass pipe from the manifold and moved the bypass hose as high as I could between the inlet runners:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1905Large.jpg
I then fitted the 2 bolts on the engine wire protector to the end of the inlet manifold:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1910Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1911Large.jpg
And fitted the ground wire:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1912Large.jpg
I then fitted the manifold stay. It's quite imporant to ensure you get the manifold the correct sides of all the hoses the run under the inlet manifold (including the new fuel hoses). You don't want to end up snagging anything. The 2 manifold bolts are done up to 39Nm, I couldn't get a pic of the bottom one, but if you get the top on first then see where it puts the manifold you'll soon find the bottom bolt. Also getting the torque wrench onto the bottom bolts was an absolute nightmare. There was a lot of trial and error in fitting the correct combination of long/short series sockets and extensions. In the end I think it was a 1/2" short series 12mm socket connected to a 1/2" wobbler connected to a 1/2" - 3/8" step-down connected to my 3/8" torque wrench. On the botttom, I think it was a 1/2" 12mm socket connected to a 4" extension connected to a 1/2" wobbler conneted to a 1/2" to 3/8" step down connected to my 3/8 torque wrench. Anyway here's a pic of the top fixing:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1914Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1915Large.jpg
I also fitted (for the last time!) the no. 4 water bypass pipe:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1917Large.jpg
I then connected up a few of the connectors and hoses on the inlet manifold:-
The Inlet Air Temp sensor connector:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1918Large.jpg
The ISC valve connector:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1919Large.jpg
I also fitted the ISC valve filter:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1920Large.jpg
and the PCV hose:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1923Large.jpg
I also fitted the No.2 vacum pipe, that the diagnostic port mounts to using the 2 fasteners (hint, when trying to do these up keep a magnet handy to catch them if the fasteners fall. I think I must have spent 1/2 hour looking for these bloody things on the floor, just to find them perched on the crossbrace. Doh!):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1924Large.jpg
With that fitted, I connected up the EVAP hose from the charcoal cannister to the No.2 vacuum(how environmentally friendly of me! I wonder if I'll get into a lower tax band ;) ):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1928Large.jpg
And the EVAP hose from the no.4 water bypass pipe to the no.2 vacuum pipe:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1929Large.jpg
And the power steering air hose to the air intake chamber:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1930Large.jpg
It was a this point after the 845 pics that I've uploaded off my camera that the battery decided to die. Bugger. :( I carried on fitting a few bits and bobs, and when I get a chance (hopefully tomorrow, I'll take a few shots of the bits I missed)
Cheers
OK, I've got a little time as the car is in the fab shop, so I figured I'd post up details of my fuel kit.
It's as follows:-
2 x Walbro 255 lph fuel pumps
2 x Jubilee clips
2 x 0.5m Startlight -6 hose
2 x -6 straight hose fittings
1 x -6 to -8 Y piece
1 x -8 to -8 male-male adaptor
1 x WOTM triple pump hanger (heavily modified)
1 x -8 banjo fitting
1 x -8 banjo bolt
2 x 3/4 copper washers
1 x -8 90degree hose fitting
3.04m -8 Aeroquip hose
1 x -8 straight hose fitting
1 x -8 dry break socket
1 x -8 dry break 45 degree plug (modified to about 30 degrees)
1 x -8 to -10 male to male adaptor
1 x aeromotive highe flow fuel filter
1 x -10 to -10 male to male adaptor
1 x -10 to -8 female to female adaptor
1 x -8 dry break plug
1 x -8 dry break socket
1 x -6 to -8 Y piece
1 x -6 straight hose fitting
1 x -6 45 degree hose fitting
0.35m -6 Aeroquip hose
1 x -6 90 degree hose fitting
1 x -6 straight hose fitting
0.92m -6 Aeroquip hose
1 x -6 30 degree hose fitting
2 x -6 to -10 male to male adaptors
2 x o'rings
1 x PHR fuel rail
6 x Siemens Deka 870cc injectors
1 x o'ring
1 x -10 to -6 hale to male adaptor
1 x -6 90 degree hose fitting
0.68m -6 Aeroquip hose
1 x -6 30 degree hose fitting
1 x -6 to -6 male to male adaptor
1 x -6 blanking plug
2 x o'rings
1 x Aeromotive FPR (13109)
1 x -6 to -6 male to male adaptor
1 x o'ring
1 x -6 straight hose fitting
3.48m 06 Aeroquip hose
1 x -6 banjo hose fitting
1 x -6 banjo bolt
2 x 1/2" copper washers
1 x -6 to -6 male to male adaptor
1 x -6 straight hose fitting
0.3m -6 Startlight hose
1 x -6 banjo bolt
2 x 1/2" copper washers
1 x -6 banjo hose fitting
0.25m -6 Startlight hose
1 x jubilee clip
The majority of fittings, I bought from www.thinkauto.com but some were bought from Earls, simply because they're 5 minutes from where I work, and I could get parts the same day. At some point I'll try to post up part numbers, and do a total quantities list.
Cheers,
OK so the car is at the fabricators, and they have finally started working on the car.
They asked me to call in so I could see everything while it was still just tacked together to see if I was happy with the work they had done. I've asked them to make a few asjustments, but on the whole it looks pretty encouraging. They should be done by the middle of next week. I managed to get a few pics (sorry for the blurriness of the first one!)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1935Large.jpg
Here you can see the downpipe from the front turbo snaking under the rear turbo. There isn't enough space for it to run parrallel to the block:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1937Large.jpg
For the downpipe, they've welded a Y-piece above the join for the exhaust This is where both downpipes from the turbo's join together. The downpipe from the rear turbo, runs over the top of the downpipe for the front turbo. This brings it pretty close to the brake master cylinder. Too close for my liking. They're going to see if they can create more space. If not I'm going to make a heat shield up:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1938Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1942Large.jpg
I've also asked them to create a "balance bar" which joins the two "collector" parts of the turbo manifolds together. Obviously being part of the exhaust manifold, they will be subjected to a lot of heat, so I asked for the balance bar to have a flexible section to cope with thermal expansion. They've created a sliding join, which has a labyrinth seal to stop the exhaust gases escaping. The only downside to this is, because the two parts of the pipe are interlocked together, both front and rear manifolds now have to be removed together, and then split. You can see how tight it all is, as this is the best shot I could get of where the balance bar joins into the front manifold:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1939Large.jpg
Here's a pic of the where the balance bar joins the rear collector. You can also see the -10 fitting for the oil return. Unfortunately this now fouls the balance bar, (Hence why the cartridge is currently rotated so that it's not vertical) so I'm going to have to get one of these with a 30 or 45 degree bend in to be able to rotate this back to how it should be:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1940Large.jpg
I've asked them to move the filter so that it's straighter to car-line, and also put a slight downwards bend to the pipes so that it easily clears the bonnet. They're going to make a stay that come off of the two stock fixings to the left of this picture (just in front of the strut towe):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1943Large.jpg
Other than that, I'm going on monday to remove the wheel and inner arch for them, so that they can fit a tube from the IC and out of the stock hole in the wing into the engine bay which will also have the B.O.V. mounted to (inside the inner arch). This will then have a Y fitting that will connect to both turbo's.
They're also fabricating a couple of turbo stays. I was hoping they would be able to fit these to the stock locations on the engine block, and then bolt to a couple of welded on studs to the bottom of the collector part of each manifold, but with the wastegate tubing in, it looks doubtfull that there will be sufficient space. So they're going to look at making one for the front turbo that is mounted off of either the strut tower, or the engine hook mounts, and the rear one will possibly come off the manifold studs. We'll see what it ends up looking like on that one....
Tony, you have so much patience my friend. My personal opinion about the fabrication, is that heat will create a lot of problems on brakes and valve covers. Watching your pics, i'm now 100% sure that the blitz kit was a gimmick from the blitz factory. If it wasn't they would have supplied all the parts to make it a kit. But now with just 2 manifolds, 2 gates and blowers, it's just basically not worth anything. I thing your cost will be a lot higher at the end than buying a new hks twin kit and installing two big ones 3037s on. On the other hand you will see that the twin kits on repairs, they are a bitch, too many things to take out. What if the gasket of the rear gate needs to be changed, or the blower's gasket. Good luck from the bottom of my heart. But when you want big, better go with an HKS SPL kit and you're done, install is 2 hours max, and piping is a breeze and ready for you. Simple, big, and easy to install. Good luck again.
Cheers
Dimitri
P.S. don't get me wrong i love the complexity looks of it, it's just the repair part that i hate, and since you are doing it all by yourself, man, you're gonna have some fun. I hope your buddies bring the beer and food, because every repair will take a few get togethers to be fixed.
Dimitri,
I share the same concerns over the heat. Hence why I mentioned making up some heat shields, and having everything ceramic coated (heat-shields as well, although this will happen at a slightly later date)
I also agree about Blitz making this kit as a bit of a gimmick. The total lack of support is dissapointing to say the least, and given the choice of buying this kit at the RRP, or the HKS kit, I would recommend the HKS, as there is a lot less hassle involved.
However, that said, I don't think it's quite as bad as the picture you've painted. Whilst it's not going to be as easy as a single to strip it down, I can and have (many times over the last 6 months!) removed the manifolds with turbo's and wastegates attached in about 10 minutes flat. Even with all the pipework on there, I could still strip it all down in a lot less than an hour. The wastegates are easily accesable from under the car, so there's no problems there either.
I'm trying to make the installation as robust as possible, so hopefully there will be little need to strip it all down. It's making sure that nothing's going to be a problem, or if it could be, having a plan of action in advance that has caused the whole project to take so long.
Thanks for your comments though, it's good to take on board :thumbs:
I understand what you are saying Tony, it's just what i'm seeing from experience. After 5,000miles the nuts will not be as easy to take off. Heat makes wonders man. Ceramic coating on the other side doesn't really do anything. You will see it yourself. The only thing it does, is just look good when new and very ugly after 6 months of running and temps. You will see things in the future.
Best in terms of power and easiest to install kit ever is the T51 kit, in my opinion. The vband never have any leaks and they just are easy to install and uninstall. If you were doing that for a living you would have the same opinion with the people that work in my shop. In a few words they say "Death to the twin kits". It's such a pain to repair, and you cut your hands and then the balance pipe leaks, etc. etc., then the gate gaskets blow, forget it. Vband wastegates and v bands turbos, never leak. For your own shake though make sure you heat wrap the down pipes and put some expensive blankets on the turbos(like the BL ones), of course when you take them out they starting to disintegrate, but while on, they do the job. Since your steering wheel is on the right, you will feel the heat in the summer, you will see. GOOD LUCK.
Cheers for the advice Dimitri. I've already got the BL blankets, and I'll take your advice and also wrap the down-pipes.
Well only 5 and a bit weeks late, I've finally got the car back! :)
Whilst I'm very happy with the quality of the welds etc. There are a few little bits here and there that I'm going to get them to look at, but overall nothing major.
To be fair, it's a real nightmare job, and I think they've done as well as can be expected. I'll just have to give it a bit of TLC and she'll be right!
Anyway, here are a few pics, excuse the odd coupling that isn't fitted right. I'm still waiting on a set of mikalor's to arrive. (And better couplings!):-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1979Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1981Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1974Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1978Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1976Large.jpg
Right, now that they've got all that lot on there, the first thing I've got to do is strip it all back off to get it ceramic coated. It never ends! :rolleyes:
Did a bit more on the car today.
After advice from Dimitri, I've decided to have the injector collets welded into the inlet runners. This meant having to remove all of the inlet side. A bit of a pain, but it only took an hour or so.
I also identified a couple of other issues with the recently fabricated pipework.
Namely the rear turbo to IC pipe doesn't line up correctly with the turbo outlet:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/119_1975Large.jpg
And the pipe then goes VERY close to the downpipe from the front turbo:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2031Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2038Large.jpg
But there's plenty of space to do something to sort it out, so I'll get onto the fabricators first thing Monday.
I also received the other day a set of camcovers from Supradibbs with -10 PCV fittings, so I had a trial fit of these:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2070Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2059Large.jpg
Here you can see the exhaust cam cover PCV fitting. Although in this pic it is lining up with the rear turbo PCV inlet, I'm actually going to have the inlet cam PCV go to the rear turbo (it means just running a 180 degree fitting and hacing the hose go over the rengine, not ideal but the tidiest route I think) and then have a 90 degree fitting on the exhaust cam cover and the hose going to the front turbo inlet.
I've got a carbon spark plug cover appearing at some point, which I think will look great with it. I'm also going to fit some black AN fittings rather than the red and blue.
I've started to look at where I'm going to put the feed from the charcoal cannister.
I think I'll feed it just in front of the PCV fitting on the inlet to the rear turbo. What do you guys think?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2065Large.jpg
Here's a pic of how it's lining itself up so far. Overall I'm quite pleased!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2072Large.jpg
After what has seemed an absolute age of waiting for stuff to happen, I've managed to crack on over the weekend and get some bits sorted. I'm hoping to have a big push and to get the car back on the road before May.
On Dimitri's advice, I decided to get the injector top-hats welded to the inlet plenum to prevent any boost leaks under boost. Doing this meant that I had to strip off all of the inlet side. Again. :rolleyes:
So anyway, strip away I did.
Whilst the inlet plenum was off, it gave me an ideal opportunity to change the bolt that holds the oil filter mount assy to one that I could plumb a pressure sensor into.
Here's the standard bolt. You can see I've undone it a little:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2086Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2088Large.jpg
And here's the replacement with my AEM 150psi pressure sensor attached. The Toyota part number is 90401-19008:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2089Large.jpg
Now the AEM pressure sensor comes with a 1/8NPT thread on it. The union bolt comes with some other thread, which is about 8mm dia, so I had to buy a 1/8NPT tap and drill and tap the bolt out. It's not the best in the world, as 1/8NPT isn't a million miles away from about 8mm so it's not the tightest thread in the world, but is just about bites up as the sensor is nearlly fully wound in. (The thread on the sensor is tapered). I also used PTFE tape to help seal the thread. There's a star washer that goes behind the bolt.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2091Large.jpg
As mentioned I had the top hats for the injectors welded to the inlet runners:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2092Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2093Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2094Large.jpg
No boost leaks for me! ;) :)
One thing I'd forgotten when I fitted the inlet plenum before, was that as I'm keeping the charcoal cannister, there's a VSV that is used for it. It's mounted under the pressure cannister usually. I've modified pressure cannister bracket to get rid of the supports for the pressure cannister, as I'm not using it which means I'd lost the mount for the VSV. There's just enough room to drill a hole in the bracket and mount the VSV without it fouling the wiring loom when it's all re-fitted:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2095Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2096Large.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2097Large.jpg
Here's my completed inlet runner assembly:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Blitz%20Twin%20Insallation/120_2098Large.jpg
So I re-fitted this the same as I did before, and then fitted the fuel rail, the same as I did before. :rolleyes:
However before I fitted the inlet plenum, I had to wire up the injector connectors. I was told by someone on here, and later confirmed it myself, that it doesn't matter which way around the injectors are wired. So I simply cut the connectors off, and wired on the new ones, and then covered the joints in heatshrink:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlice