View Full Version : Brakes
Who's got 'em? How much do you want for them? Will the brake pedal actually
travel less distance -especially if I add Castrol SRF or other equivalent
High performance brake fluid. How else can I get my brake pedal to travel
a shorter distance and give it a more sporty feel, currently there is under
normal braking about 1-3" inches of travel depending on how hard I wish/need
to brake and its a bit off putting.
Regards
Alex Holdroyd
(just finished dodging a kamakazi cat!)
I have them on my mkiv. They helped the pedal travel a bit, but then I had appalling brake travel before. I also run Chris Wilson brake pads which tend to help a bit with braking.
I dont use SRF fluid, I cant remember what fluid I am using but I know its about half the price of SRF and has never given me any problems even after 15 hard laps of Donington.
If you want a set the guy to talk to is Leon, he's based in North London and can be called on 07956 285219.
JB
Paul Booth
11-06-01, 19:48
When/if you get the answers, can you let me know what/how/where too?
I've had my TT now for 3 months and the brakes are extremely exciting when on the German Autobahns. I've been told a UK set of disks and calipers would be an extremely cost-effective solution but not to hold my breath looking for them.
The Brembo and AP kit looks a touch expensive, given that I'm not looking to race it, only to not hit the slow BMW in front.
Theres been a lot of discussion about the UK brakes, you can fit them to an import but the chances of making your wheels fit afterwards are slim to say the least. The stock 17" wheels have a huge front offset so that they can fit past the calipers and most of the wheels on the imports will not have the same offset.
The alternative is to use uprated brake pads. I use Chris Wilson competition pads which make the brakes at least as good, if not better, than a set of stock UK brakes. Problem is they squeal like buggery, so Chris also does some fast road pads which dont make any noise but are almost as good. Portfield pads are also worth trying, Paul Whiffin from this BBS can get hold of them.
JB
Paul Booth
12-06-01, 10:25
What impresses me about this site is not just the huge reservoir of knowledge, but the efficiency with which answers are dispatched.
I received notification on my mobile phone (courtesy of Vodafone) that an email had just been delivered to me and that the subject was [MKIV Technical]. On immediately accessing my email, I hit the link and went straight to this entry.
How much more real-time do you need?
Thanks for the truly excellent input. If I tell you I have 18" Axia wheels, would that give you any clues as to whether the UK spec callipers would fit?
Regards
18" wheels give you more of a chance but the chances are still pretty slim. Blitz do 2 versions of their 18" wheels, one with the offset for import brakes and one with the offset for UK brakes. The visible difference is huge. Its not the diameter that matters, its the distance that the spokes come out from the centre hub. The only way to be sure if to put your wheels onto a car with UK brakes. Of course this is all assuming you dont have one of the 1998 onwards cars which apparently have different hubs.
If it was a simple upgrade everybody would have done it and there would not be any uk brakes left.
JB
Paul Booth
12-06-01, 10:58
OK.
Until I can try it out, I discovered (I think) how to use the picture of my car on the JIC site in my signature.
If this works, you should be able to take a limited look at the wheels and give me a 'best-guess'.
I think I'm going with the CW pads by the sounds of things.
Where can I buy new import-spec disks from? I might as well do the job properly.
Rgds
UK brakes are as rare as rocking-horse poo, but they are HUGE by comparison to the Jap spec. Hence the difficulties with the wheels.
They slot straight on to the Jap car. Only thing in the way is the stock splash-guard but this you junk anyway. Best also to use braided hoses which does improve pedal-feel somewhat. Also consider replacing the rears as they are bigger too.
There is a concern in my mind about F/R brake bias, following the fitment of larger fronts. I was going to do some research on this last year, but took my car off the road for other mods before I got chance. I fitted the front Brembos together with UK rears and there doesn't feel like there are any bias problems. The UK fronts are only a tad smaller than the Brembos and I'm not sure if UK fronts coupled with Jap rears would be a good combination, bias-wise.
As for fluid, SRF is recommended for use with carbon pads, fitted to Jap spec brakes, as this combination runs much hotter - to the point where the temperature limits of ordinary fluid can be exceeded. Bigger brakes have a higher mass which causes them to run cooler by comparison. So ordinary DOT 5.1 will be fine.
As regards fitment: measure the distance between the narrowest point from the inner of your wheel spokes and the surface of the disc and I'll let know know if they will fit or not. Also, what year is your car?
I happened to glance through the posts on the other list and noticed you were after info. on ICE fitment. I have basically already done the same thing as you are asking about. If you post to this list I'll be able to give you some detailed answers as I'm not a member of the other list.
Yours,
J
looking at the pic I would say its highly unlikely that they will fit over UK brakes. Take a look at a car with stock wheels
http://www.btinternet.com/~branners/resources/gallery/0006024.jpg
and see how far out the wheel comes from the hub. If you can find out what width your front wheels are that might give a bit more of a clue.
Chris Wilson can also supply disks, as can Leon. Chris is based near Chester and Leon is in North London. Stock discs with uprated pads seems to work pretty well.
JB
Ash,
There is a new thread under Audio!
Thanks for the info on brakes, I might be able to get hold of some Lotus Esprit 4-pot AP Racing brakes - from my future father in law who works there. I'll get to try before I buy as well so I can double check the fitment. Will the ABS still work if I use a totally different brake? Is the ABS good enough to worry about. Does the official AP Racing and Brembo kit allow for the ABS?
Cheers
Alex H
Paul Booth
12-06-01, 11:48
I just can't get over how responsive this site is, it's awesome.
Thanks a $M for all this input. How do I contact Chris and/or Leon?
Rgds
Changing the brake calipers, whether for the UK spec or Brembo's or AP's, or whatever, doesn't affect the ABS at all.
Though what I did find was, at first, the ABS came in much more often. This was because I was so used to having to stomp on the old Jap-spec brakes and it took me a short while to modulate the required pedal-pressure to suit the more efficient Brembos.
Yours,
J
ps I'll come back to you later on the ICE questions... have to get some work done! :)
Leon can be called on 07956 285219. He can source and fit most parts including UK brake kits. He's based in North London between Watf*rd
and Harrow.
JB
Paul Booth
12-06-01, 19:45
Once again, many thanks.
While sitting in the perpetual jam leaving London on the A40 this afternoon, I used my time to make some phone calls (well actually, nothing new there).
I discovered that my local Toyota agent is happy to supply import spec discs for my TT. I also discovered that my local trade supplier has the import spec discs listed and can do next day delivery if needed.
If I don't use my tools they'll only get rusty, so, other than pads, it comes down to price, price and price.
I'm getting seriously amazed with how much easier it is to get parts and support for an imported vehicle than I ever expected.
Yep, Toyota on the whole are really good. Not only that, I have developed a Toyota contact who has proved exceptional. They even have the UK and import CD Rom data for any Toyota vehicle... never mind the MKIV. :)
Plus, they give me at least 10% discount on anything I buy, together with a free MOT every year on the 3 Toyotas I have. So I'm their biggest fan. :)
Yours,
J
Paul Booth
12-06-01, 21:09
I wish I could get Peugot to do that with our family cars.
Having said that, I did just swap all 4 disks and pads on my wife's '98 406 Executive for £130. That'll only get me one axle's pads on the TT.
Quote: from Paul Booth on 7:45 pm on June 12, 2001[br]Once again, many thanks.
I discovered that my local Toyota agent is happy to supply import spec discs for my TT. I also discovered that my local trade supplier has the import spec discs listed and can do next day delivery if needed.
How much are they quoting you for the discs?
Paul Booth
13-06-01, 16:45
I've got a pair of new Q&H rear discs coming now from my local supplier at £30 a piece. Paul Whiffin has a set of fast road pads for me and my front discs only require a couple of thou skimmed to be as-new (no real wear just not perfectly flat and I want to start with a clean sheet).
Here's interesting:
I contacted an old friend up in Oldham this p.m.. He supplies custome made industrial and performance Aeroquip hoses for everything from mining equipment to full blown racers.
He told me he wouldn't supply me with stainless hoses for road use because:
1. Stainless overbraid onto alloy or stainless-on-steel end fittings are not MOT legal since the new regulation came in (it's a salt thing)
2. He's not sure about the legality, or long term safety, of stainless overbraid onto stainless end fittings.
3. Re-usable end fittings are illegal whatever and he's not prepared to make up crimped hoses as a freebee (damn)
4. He's a friend (?) and he doesn't want me using hoses with ends which may corrode off over Winter.
If I was using it on the track, no issues, as someone would be under it every event.
He's right, there's almost no chance of me going under it when there's salt on the roads.
Anyone know about the legality of stainless overbraid into crimped stainless end fittings?
So everyone that has replaced their brake hoses with SS overbraid ones will now be illegal? On the other hand I have no cats on a 1995 car :)
Paul Booth
13-06-01, 20:00
According to someone in the hose business for 30+ years.
I guess the cat makes it a double whammy, if they want to nail you. Let's see, will that stop me removing my cat when I get my Nur spec tube? duh.... Nope!
It's like my number plates, no one is going to say anything unless they have cause to stop me for something really naughty, then they load you up with the minor infractions. E.g. in my youth I was done for speeding and they noticed I hadn't displayed my current tax disk, which was sitting on a shelf at home. They did me for speeding AND failure to display a current disk but would not have done so if if I'd been stopped for a random check.
I'm going to call the Ministry tomorrow and get the full definition on the legality on stainless hoses, once I get back from Powerstation.
Can't wait for your post about the ministry, as I have just fitted braided lines to my son's car. MOT due next week:angry:
Quote: from Phil Wall on 11:43 pm on June 13, 2001[br]Can't wait for your post about the ministry, as I have just fitted braided lines to my son's car. MOT due next week:angry:
If they ask tell them the ends aren't stainless, just new one yesterday.:)
Rich
Paul Booth
14-06-01, 09:14
I know this is a bit cynical but it's what I use to do 20 years ago when I could afford to go rallying; use an MOT testing station that:
1. doesn't read trivial regs
2. doesn't understand the technicalities
3. doesn't think banning obvious 'improvements' make sense and uses their discretion
4. just don't give a damn
I have a large testing station near me that employs trained rock-apes and wouldn't know a braided brake hose from lycra stocking (guess where I'm taking mine once I've got the correct hoses fitted.
If you go to Kwik-Fit for an MOT, they'll just tell you that you need knew shocks or new tyres or your tracking's out (they're told to do this, they're not just idiots) and they won't notice the hoses.
My personal concern (particularly in light of what my friend who, although got somewhat anal after he passed 50, is extremely knowledgeable about high pressure hoses) is that certain braid/end-fitting combinations are blatantly potentially lethal on the road.
If you think about it, salt and alloy really doesn't mix and many people like to fit the pretty anodised end-fittings. Without weekly/monthly inspections by a hose expert, or regular changing, these hoses are going to become dangerous after a dose of road-salt.
He lectured me:
The strength of a braided hose is in the braiding, not the teflon tube, and once the braiding and/or end-fitting joint is compromised the first time you stomp the pedal the tube bursts with dramatic effects. The most common manner in which this happens is when it gets hit by a rock thrown up by the wheel.
"So use a cover spring" I said. Then you have the end-cup the spring fits in and this collects road salt in winter causing the end-fitting to corrode VERY quickly, he countered.
Personally, I am going to aim for the combination he was uncertain about, that being stainless overbraid into crimped (not re-usable) solid stainless end-fittings (not stainless plated mild steel which are common, apparently). If that costs me a little more and I have to (shudder) pay my friend to do the hoses for me under duress, then so be it. I'm going to make damn sure my hoses are really cleaned every time I need an oil change.
I think that if the person at risk is well informed and has a liberal portion of common sense the risks are reduced to near zero. Hell, how often do you actually check your brake fluid levels, standard hoses etc. now?
I'm pleased this information came about as I was considering braided hoses for my car. On what I have heard there is no way I am going to have these things fitted. I have been onto the Aeroquip web site and note that they refer to their hoses under the heading of "Motorsport" .... no mention of road use.
With this in mind there must be a way to obtain better performing brake lines without resorting to braiding...any ideas.
Gavin
Paul Booth
14-06-01, 15:13
I just got back from Powerstation after my 4.5k medical, nice clean & fresh Silkolene in her pipes now.
Dirk hasn't heard about the road application issue on braided brake hoses and has no opinion either way, not being familiar with the detail. (politician).
I just spoke to the "Vehicle Standards & Engineering" department at the Ministry of Transport in London and apparently my question goes beyond 'is it in the MOT guidelines'; they think this needs answering properly. Unfortunately, the person competent to do this is not in until tomorrow. He will be programmed to call me and as soon as he does I will post his input.
Incidentally, my hose manufacturing friend did say that flexibles do age and will exhibit elasticity way before they show visible signs of wear. His suggestion was to replace the hoses at regular intervals with high quality non-braided hoses (I know, I know. Won't braided hoses last the same anyway even if abused by salt?)
It's important to note, it's not the stainless braid which is the problem (if it has a protective jacket - spring or sleeve), it's the point its joined to the end-fittings. Alloy or plated mild steel mixed with road salt causes horrendous electrolytic corrosion and a breakdown at the interface.
It remains my belief (subject to input from MoT) that protected stainless overbraid crimped to solid stainless end-fittings will outlast me and the car. (Reminds me of the watch that is guaranteed for life; if it fails the spring slashed your wrist. )
Completely off the point, Dirk (Powerstation) said SRF was a total pain in the proverbial if you're not taking it on the track regularly. It requires a total flush of the system and SRF absorbs water at such a high rate that it has to be replaced at very regular intervals to be doing its job properly. He said unless you're racing it, Dot 5 is fine (SRF believers take it up with him, not me).
(Edited by Paul Booth at 3:15 pm on June 14, 2001)
I got my braided hoses from Leon and they are all stainless steel, just checked with a magnet.
Paul Booth
14-06-01, 18:57
Stainless end-fittings too (Aluminium is non-magnetic)?
If they're crimped end-fittings, NOT reusables can you tell me how much please?
I've pretty much decided I'm going to use that combination and Oldham is a sodding long way for a handful of hoses.
Paul Booth
14-06-01, 19:03
On the subject of brake upgrades and my Axia 18" wheels.
I measured the distance between the disc face and the inside of my wheels; it's 52mm.
I measured the clearance distance distance an AP calliper needs from the rotor face on a Subaru (hey, I was at Powerstation and they have them kicking around in droves. No Supras other than mine). It was 55mm.
Now, if I'm lucky and the UK spec callipers have the same stickingoutness, I can get away with a 5mm spacer.
Comments please? Non derisory if possible but anything will do.
Anyone who uses ally brake fittings on a road car is asking for trouble. Ally oxidises more readily than perhaps most people realise - especially under typical winter road conditions.
Such fittings are designed for race use only where they will receive regular inspection and/or timed replacement.
High grade stainless steel is virtually impervious to corrosion and is the best material to use; which exceeds OEM spec in almost all cases, as most manufacturers employ plated mild steel. So no-one should have any qualms about using SS fittings on their road-going MKIV. In fact, stainless braided hoses and fittings are a universally recognised brake improvement modification for both cars and motorcycles alike.
Stainless screw-type fittings and stainless braided hoses are perfectly re-useable. It is the sealing glands that cannot be re-used and the actual hose-end that has been in contact with the gland. There is no real benefit in using a crimp-type seal or a threaded-type seal. Provided each is done properly, they both have the effect of performing the same function of sealing the pipe to the connector... they just do it in different ways.
As for SRF fluid absorbing water from the atmosphere: fact is, conventional brake fluids *are* hydroscopic... to the extent where manufacturers will recommend that brake fluid is changed at certain intervals. However, as regards the MKIV, SRF fluid is specifically recommended, under certain circumstances by ChrisW.
To be quite frank, my practical knowledge of racing, et al, is zilch compared to Chris. So if he recommends it, then I, for one, will happily stand in line.
Yours,
J
Paul Booth
14-06-01, 19:41
To be quite frank, my practical knowledge of racing, et al, is zilch compared to Chris. So if he recommends it, then I, for one, will happily stand in line
... as will I, as soon as decide to go racing with my Supra, but until that day I will stick with what is best for fast road use.
Aeropquip have a disclaimer in their parts catalogue to their factors and manufacturers to the effect "not to be used for road use".
Of course, I'm not that knowledgeable on the subject. If he's not returned to his home in Northern California yet, maybe someone would like to give Ian Hamer a call at his UK office 0161 633 6424. He's been supplying custom hoses for 30+ years and I'm damned if I'm going to argue with him.
Quote: from Paul Booth on 7:03 pm on June 14, 2001[br]On the subject of brake upgrades and my Axia 18" wheels.
I measured the distance between the disc face and the inside of my wheels; it's 52mm.
I measured the clearance distance distance an AP calliper needs from the rotor face on a Subaru (hey, I was at Powerstation and they have them kicking around in droves. No Supras other than mine). It was 55mm.
Now, if I'm lucky and the UK spec callipers have the same stickingoutness, I can get away with a 5mm spacer.
Comments please? Non derisory if possible but anything will do.
I have a mail from the guys in NZ saying that it needs 65mm. I havent checked this but the guys in NZ tend to know what they are talking about. The safest bet it to put your wheels onto a car with UK brakes, the design of the spokes has a lot to do with it as well.
I think the APs on the Scoobs are 4pot, the APs on the Supra are 6 pots.
JB
Paul Booth
14-06-01, 19:57
Yeah, I knew it was wishful thinking but it passed the time while Dirk was getting his hands oily on my Slurpa this morning.
BTW, there's a rare treat, seeing Dirk out of the office and doing some work. I suggested having the phone surgically removed a couple of weeks ago and he must have taken it to heart.
Humour: Powerstation have a brand-new Peugot 106 GTi in there, owned by a 20 year old who's having them spend £8k on the engine, looking to get as near to 160bhp as possible. No brakes mentioned, just the engine.
Please don't let it be me stopped at the lights in front when he's out and about.
Yes JB I'd agree with your figure: for the Brembos, at a point appoximately 135mm from the wheel centre, you need approx. 70mm of clearance... so 65mm seems about right as a guestimate for the UK-spec brakes as they are just a tad smaller.
Yours,
J
Paul Booth
14-06-01, 21:26
Well, it's Carbon pads until such time as they have eaten the discs, then it's either new discs, same spec., or add new rims to the budget for new brakes.
Groan!!! How much are nice 18/19" rims? Mine came with them fitted. I don't think I'm going to want to know really, am I? I think I feel sick.
Quote: from Paul Booth on 6:57 pm on June 14, 2001[br]
Stainless end-fittings too (Aluminium is non-magnetic)?
Pretty sure they are actually on the car so it was hard finding a place to put the magnet where is wasn't near the chassis, but it stuck to everything.
If they're crimped end-fittings, NOT reusables can you tell me how much please?
Yes they are crimped end fittings.
Leon Green does the whole set for about 60-70 pounds
Paul Booth
14-06-01, 22:40
Thanks.
I'll give him a call after I've spoken to the nice man from the MoT who's supposed to be calling me.
Quote: from Paul Booth on 10:40 pm on June 14, 2001[br]Thanks.
I'll ^give him a call after I've spoken to the nice man from the MoT who's supposed to be calling me.
Having looked at them again (hey I got a torch out and everything, they look like the Zinc plated Steel Goodridge hose ends. So they are probably not crimped.
Paul Booth
14-06-01, 23:12
I got the same vibe from Rich via email. It looks like the Leon standard hose uses the plated end-fittings.
I've gone too far now. I'm going for broke and I'm gonna find those solid stainless crimped end-fittings.
Amusing anecdote: About twenty-something years ago, back in the days I used to be able to afford rallying, I had an evil 2.3 Firenza (didn't go round bends all that well but infinite amount of torque - used to leave Group 1 RS2000 for dead in a straight line).
Anyway, it got nicked by joy riders. When the police found it they took me out to collect it in the paddy wagon, generous you might think. Not so. One of the bobbies was building a rally Firenza and wanted to see how I had achieved the negative camber and reinforced the notoriously weak trailing rear links.
So, you get the idea.
Picture this contable, in full uniform, on his back in the rain under the back of my car with a torch making appreciative muffled grunting noises.
I will carry that image to the grave.
Paul Booth
15-06-01, 11:30
This is getting surreal.
The very VERY nice man from the MoT called me this a.m.. He is extremely interested in this question as he runs a Lada Niva in off-road competitions and on the road (I know, I know, what could I say really?) and he doesn't know the answer.
He does, however, know who in the Vehicle Inspectorate to program to get the answer.
Are you, like me, getting the feeling that only those people who are actually hose experts have any sort of idea what this is all about or have even read the paperwork on this.
I throw down the Gauntlet: can anyone find anyone like Powerstation (who have heard squat on this) who have actually heard anything on this subject?
Once the people at VI have answered the nice Lada off-roader at MoT and he's got back to me, I'll post it.
Larff, well how I larffed......
Paul Booth
18-06-01, 17:28
Right here it is:
The nice man from the MoT called me this a.m. after talking to his friend in the Vehicle Inspectorate and you're gonna love it (I insist!).
It is not reasonable for any MoT inspector to be able to differentiate between re-usable and crimped end-fittings and it is especially unreasonable for an MoT inspector to be asked to determine the material type of the end-fittings, ergo any stainless overbraid hose with whatever end-fittings will be deemed to be acceptable if they are perceived to be in good condition.
In other words, they will NOT differentiate between braided hoses and standard rubber hoses.
So (you know what's coming now don't you?) I called my smug friend in Oldham and told him what I had discovered. This caused him immense consternation as he has the Aeroquip instructions in front of him AND he has recently had a West..'something-or-other' fail an SVA because it has stainless hoses and he had to replace the hoses for rubber to get his SVA.
Needless to say, he now wants the number for the nice man at the MoT so he can have the person who failed his SVA fired.
Bottom line.... use your hoses in peace but DO remember, Aluminium and salt do NOT go together. Either use stainless end-to-end or check them 'rigorously' at regular intervals.
Hi...
If we have come to the conclusion that full s/steel hoses are the way to go ....... who can supply a set for the MKIV and how much.
Gavin
My sons MOT confirms the previous posts, all stainless lines, passed OK.
Now for some for the Supra.
But where do we get them?
I had a chat with a buddy of mine who has been an MOT inspector for some time (amongst other things). He says their job is basically to check the condition and/or effectiveness of items such as brake-pipes, et al, at the time the car is tested.
He gave me a like example of the car's bodywork, saying, it doesn't matter to him whether the body is fiberglass, steel, aluminium, etc. Provided there is no corrosion to the extent where it would affect the structural integrity of the vehicle, at the time the test is conducted, then it will pass a UK MOT. He further added that he often came across cars that had corrosion problems which he estimated that, another winter down the line *may* be an MOT failure. But, at the time of the current test, it was a pass.
Likewise, he added, with the brake fittings: provided whatever *is* fitted is doing an adequate job at the time of the MOT then the vehicle should pass. And he further went on to say that it was not his job to speculate what may (or may not) happen some time in the future.
He also pointed out some small-print somewhere where it says that just because a vehicle may have a current MOT certificate: that fact, in itself, is in no way any kind of guarantee that the vehicle the certificate relates to is actually roadworthy... just that, on that day, at that time, it passed a UK MOT.
HTH,
J
Paul Booth
18-06-01, 20:20
He gave me a like example of the car's bodywork, saying, it doesn't matter to him whether the body is fiberglass, steel, aluminium, etc.
Seems to confirm it.
As for SVAs, one does whatever one has to to get it through, after that one does pretty much what one damn well feels like.....
I have to supply my friend in Oldham with the name and direct-dial details of the nice man at the MoT and he has committed to provide the name(s) of one or more companies dahn sarf who can provide full stainless end-to-end for those of us who don't want to be going under our cars every week-end, at the same time.
As and when he comes up with the goods, obviously I'll sell the data (well that's what everyone does isn't it - humour), I'll post it on 'ere. Hopefully tomorrow but I do have to pick up my new caravan sometime tomorrow and I'm all girly excited about that and I might forget. Before Thursday, whatever.
Anyone see that car-caravan exceed 200mph on the TV recently? Wasn't me but it got me thinking......
Paul Booth
20-06-01, 14:18
This is somewhat embarrassing and I feel like a cheap salesman.
Ian Hamer in Oldham has said that he can supply stainless braided hoses with crimped stainless end-fittings.
I asked him about Aeroquip and, although they are a factor for Aeroquip, he thinks they've lost the plot somewhat over the last few years.
He is going to supply me with 'Earl' braided hoses and crimped stainless end-fittings, however; MKIV hose construction is not listed in their bible of hoses and so he needs a set of standard hoses for his engineers to match to.
Now this means me taking mine off the road while he does this and I'm not keen on that idea.
Does anyone have a set of standard hoses they've taken off I can borrow as a model until my nice shiny ones are delivered?
As and when he's made up mine, anyone else not already having access to a local supplier, can call him at:
Ian Hamer
Hamer-Stevenson Hydraulics Ltd.
Oldham
0161 633 6424
ian@hamer-stevenson.co.uk
I have absolutely no idea what he's going to charge but he's usually pretty fair (he's a collector of rare metal, e.g. mint AC Ace, MGA Twin-cam, etc. and is fairly sympathetic to interesting car owners). If anyone thinks he's a bit steep, drop me a line and I'll have words with him about his heritage.
you cant even get a rough idea how much? Most places charge about £100 for a set, I think Leon does them quite a bit cheaper than that.
JB
Paul Booth
21-06-01, 09:57
Because I know the guy, I'm not going to get involved in quoting issues. It's his business and whether he wants to supply hoses to 'non-trade' is up to him.
I don't want to be obstructive but I'm not going to risk friendships and potential future friendships over brake hoses that I'm not selling.
I'm using him because he and one of the other directors are also car enthusiasts and have been friends for 20 years. He used to supply hoses for my bikes and I trust him not to supply me with stainless plated mild steel and, through lack of expert knowledge, tell me they're solid stainless.
Obviously, it's in my interest to ensure he has the specs for the hoses, otherwise he can't do mine, but other than that, if he never sells another MKIV hose I shan't lose sleep.
Likewise, if other MKIV owners feel happy using re-usable Aluminium end-fittings (so long as it's not me they're behind, nor my children in the bus queue), I shan't worry about that either. They're pefectly legal for MoT purposes.
Hi...
I might of miread but I thought Leons hoses were not full stainless.
gav
Quote: from HardHead42 on 10:22 pm on June 14, 2001[br]Quote: from Paul Booth on 6:57 pm on June 14, 2001[br]
Stainless end-fittings too (Aluminium is non-magnetic)?
Pretty sure they are actually on the car so it was hard finding a place to put the magnet where is wasn't near the chassis, but it stuck to everything.
If they're crimped end-fittings, NOT reusables can you tell me how much please?
Yes they are crimped end fittings.
Leon Green does the whole set for about 60-70 pounds
This was from RJ earlier in this post, seems Leons are full steel, unless I am misreading it.
JB
Paul Booth
21-06-01, 10:48
Easiest answer is to pick up the phone. It's what I keep meaning to do but as soon as I do I know I'll hear something which means I'll have to get in my car and drive down the M40.
The only reason I haven't called Leon to confirm the spec. on his hoses is because of the price I pay elsewhere (cough!).
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