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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

HKS or Blitz?


Paul Booth
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Brakes - UK spec if they fit behind you rims, CW or PW race pads with good fluid if not.

 

Exhaust and Induction  - Blitz and HKS are both popular. Depends how loud you want you exhaust and how much you have to spend. With the recent group deals that have been floting around for HKS stuff I would say this has the edge at the moment.

 

ECU - BIG money and not really necessary as long as you still have the stock turbos and fuelling.

 

I would also think about some uprated suspension as it makes a huge difference.

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Paul,

 

Mines, do an excellent ECU piggyback system but I don't know who is actually able to program them effectively - if anyone on the list is able to I'd love to know as I have one.......

The MOTEC M48 though is the daddy of all ECU's its a total replacement unit and has the most powerful CPU in modern motors. There are various versions but you'll have to buy the top of the range as the lower versions only cater for 4 cylinders. It's about £1200 for the top of the range, I believe, don't know if that includes fitting and setup. Look up Motec on the web.

Induction Get the HKS musroom for everyday and if your loaded a Blitz SUS power for show!

I've got an HKS Super Drager, and although they are common, they're common for a reason. they look the, they sound the part and they give good hp increases. Unless someone comes up with a concrete reason to change I think I'll stick with HKS exhauts as they work for me! £500-700 for a complete exhaust from the first Cat to the exhaust tip - fitted.

AP Racing 6-pot and Brembo 6-pot are the only 2 real choices you have for brakes unless like me you have a v.nice future father in law who works for Lotus and can get you the AP 4-pot kit off of an Esprit! (Though we have yet to see if it will fit!) You're looking at £1500+ for brake kit.

etc...... hmmm boost controller.....? upto £500 for the top of the range Blitz piece of kit.

Intercooler...£800-1500 just for the intercooler 2-3 hours labour I believe.

Iridium Spark plugs £90 (fit em yourself!! - its cheaper)

New Cams

New Pistons - 3.3-3.4 litre

New HKS Sequential Dump valves

New Ball Baring Turbo's

750-1000cc injectors

Progressive dampers and coil springs (adjustable pillow ball mounts to adjust camber)

Ab-flug/blitz/veilside bonnet to vent all the hot air that'll be created.

5x oil tankers..... ahhh what the hell rip out the rear seats and stick in a 150 litre tank!

Replace the doors with carbon fibre copies - ditto for the boot and get the rear wing formed in it as a one peice moulding put it in DERA's wind tunnel and adjust the actual carbon wing element to give decent actual downforce and not too much drag.....ok now I'm dreaming - anyone work for one of the F1 teams and can get us access to these things?

 

Right I'll go back to lah lah land now....

 

TTFN

 

Alex H

 

 

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LOL

 

I think most of us are a bit too battle-hardened (or more like battle weary) for all that controversy stuff. :)  

 

To my way of thinking, the question is not so much which parts are the best, but what is it that you want to achieve from your car at the end of it all?

 

Taking the first item on your list: I would ask you... what is it that you felt you were missing out on, brakes-wise?

 

Because there's no such thing as "the best" brakes. It's just that certain types of brakes fulfil the requirements of certain applications better than others.  

 

That's why knowing what you want to achieve from your new brakes will, more often than not, narrow the choice considerably.  

 

The bolt-on parts from the two companies you mention are generally of high quality but can have inherent limitations.

 

For example, the HKS Hiper exhaust sounds the dogs bollox if loud exhausts are your thing. Personally, I prefer the deep rumble of the Drager. This, coupled with the fact that I won't have the silencing effect of turbos, for me, would make the Hiper just a tad too Hiper! But, if you also want your car lowered, with both exhausts, there are ground-clearance issues that must be addressed *if* you need to clear speed-humps around where you live.

 

I note you have an ECU swap as your 3rd choice. Now that's unusual. Because there is power to be had in tailoring the fuelling and/or ignition to suit the needs of new cams, turbos, etc. Likewise, another major item that has been overlooked (in the UK) is the MKIV cylinder head.

 

Justin and myself are the first people (to our knowledge) to have designed and installed a range of modifications to the MKIV cylinder head that are specifically tailored to increasing cylinder filling mid-range and to give significant extra top-end flow; whilst applying other modifications designed to sink more heat from the valve head into the cooling system. Thus making the engine not only potentially faster, but still operating within safe, logical limits.    

 

One example of an issue between the two companies in question, I came across just the other week.

 

Mark has the Blitz blowoff valve, which is advertised as being the loudest. Well, certainly louder than the HKS one by all accounts. Plus, I liked the mounting of the Blitz in the way they had a replacement intake pipe with a proper flange for the blow-off valve. By comparison, the HKS BOV mounts in place of the stock valve and gets severely muffled by the engine and cooked from the heat of the turbos.

 

However, from an engineering point of view, I prefer the 2-stage HKS valve. And the HKS unit looks, to me, better engineered than the Blitz. The actual sound of the valve is not a priority with me. So, as an optimum solution, I bought the HKS BOV and made a proper flange for it that I welded to the ally intake pipe just under the battery tray. But, to anyone whose main priority, when choosing a BOV, is to have the loudest... there is only one choice, the Blitz.  

 

So that's why I say it is important to have a good idea in mind of what you want to achieve from your MKIV. Once you have a good idea of that, then there is normally only one component that optimally fits the bill in each situation.

 

In my experience, however, I have found that such an optimum outcome cannot normally be achieved simply by bolting on some part or other straight out of the box. For example, like my BOV situation. Getting the whole thing right is all about taking an off-the-shelf component and re-working it here and there, to create something unique and special to you. After all, that (to me at any rate) *is* the whole idea of car-tuning at the end of the day. In the sense that you take a mass-produced vehicle and tailor it to your specific needs and/or requirements.    

 

When I completed the first major tuning stage of my MKIV, shortly after it was finished I suddenly looked at the car and realised, to my horror, that all I was doing was spending thousands of pounds and hundreds of hours of my time... in order to produce a rolling advert for HKS.

 

So I took it all apart and started again.

 

Had I thought a bit more seriously, about what it was I was attempting to achieve at the end of it all, I'd have saved myself a *lot* of time and expense.

 

HTH.

 

Yours,

J

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...... hmmm boost controller.....? upto £500 for the top of the range Blitz piece of kit.

Intercooler...£800-1500 just for the intercooler 2-3 hours labour I believe.

Iridium Spark plugs £90 (fit em yourself!! - its cheaper)

New Cams

New Pistons - 3.3-3.4 litre

New HKS Sequential Dump valves

New Ball Baring Turbo's

750-1000cc injectors

Progressive dampers and coil springs (adjustable pillow ball mounts to adjust camber)

Ab-flug/blitz/veilside bonnet to vent all the hot air that'll be created.

5x oil tankers..... ahhh what the hell rip out the rear seats and stick in a 150 litre tank!

Replace the doors with carbon fibre copies - ditto for the boot and get the rear wing formed in it as a one peice moulding put it in DERA's wind tunnel and adjust the actual carbon wing element to give decent actual downforce and not too much drag.....

 

"wheeze....wheeze"

 

All excellent input though, especially on the bits I can actually afford: exhaust, induction etc.

 

Someone posted an item on their HKS system dragging its bottom. What do we know about those kind of issues on the competing products, i.e., problems?

 

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To my way of thinking, the question is not so much which parts are the best, but what is it that you want to achieve from your car at the end of it all?

 

Whoa! Perfect answer. Exactly the answer I give people when they say what PC spec do I need or what mobile phone should I buy.

 

My list was nonsense and the things I listed were just to elicit a response.

 

I want to reduce lag on the turbos;

I want it to stop better and I want a better brake pedal feel;

I'd like the power output to be more linear (over the power band, obviously) and less all-or-nothing.

 

Then, and only then, will I look to improve it's latent capability.

I understand getting a better breathing solution (in and out) will improve on the lag issues and possibly help straighten out the power output.

Brakes: well this is an ongoing saga. Blatantly, from the feedback I've received, I'm going to be using Carbon pads on standard discs until I can afford discs, callipers AND wheels.

Noise-wise, my experience is that a noisy car attracts more negative attentions than positive and I can live without either.

 

That's my starter-for-ten. After that we'll see what I've got to work with.

 

Thank you all for you input.

You might like to know Powerstation like MKIV owners because (generally) they are more knowledgeable and technically aware. Of course I'm going to fix that little red wagon.

 

 

(Edited by Paul Booth at 11:10 am on June 15, 2001)

 

 

(Edited by Paul Booth at 11:12 am on June 15, 2001)

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Thank you for your support, but the answer I gave could be applied to every area of modern-day life.

 

Not only that, my answer would have been the same whether you were choosing a holiday... or modifying a car... or choosing anything else for than matter.

 

Would any sane person go willy-nilly to loads of destinations, progressively further and further away from their home, until they found a holiday place they liked?

 

Of course not... well, not these days.

 

Maybe two-hundred years ago I suppose that was how it was done.  

 

Problem is, as far as the MKIV is concerned, that *is* the way most people set about tuning their cars.

 

Yours,

J  

 

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Problem is, as far as the MKIV is concerned, that *is* the way most people set about tuning their cars.

 

Yours,

J  

 

Possibly a little harsh and definitely not as true as it is for some breeds of vehicle owner.

I do tend to see the "my dragster is louder than your dragster" syndrome but not much from people who have done some competition.

My general rules are (generally in the order I like to deal with them):

1. Make it stop better.

2. Make it go round bends better.

3. Make the mill run more efficiently/reliably/smoothly.

4. Analyse the results.

5. Goto 1.

 

Hence:

Avoid walls (either by going round them or stopping before hitting them); avoid noise (scrutineers get pissy about excessive noise); avoid bits dropping off (marshalls get pissy about things dropping off); avoid engines breaking (my bank manager gets pissy when my engine breaks); avoid finishing last (I get pissy when I finish last - well, when I could afford it I did).

 

Seems to work just as well for fast road work, but cheaper.

 

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Harsh, no. It's just that many types of conversation and/or humour don't come across too well in these forums. People who know me realise that I'm a bit of a closet psychologist whose observations regularly border on the insane. :)

 

Yours,

J

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