Tricky-Ricky Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 This is odd, this is in relation to my front oil seal going (i think!) anyway i managed to get the auxiliary pulley cover and cam belt off last night, oil everywhere, gave it a good degrease, looked at it this morning and found that i had a trickle of oil coming down from the pressure relief valve:( now i can't see this being the cause of my large leak, but it could be a factor, i also can't see the crank oil seal (haven't removed the cam drive pulley yet) but if the seal had actually popped out it would be visible, very strange! anyone had problems like this? i also noticed by the very visible i.e. somewhat excessive amount of silicone sealer visible, that my sump has been off before, which is a little worrying as to what for?? will try and get some pics up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 OK now i have taken the main nut on the valve Assembly off, there are two springs! is this right?? the manual only shows one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 Anyone?? also i'm now pretty sure that the oil pump has been off before! but the big question is WHY? not to keen on the amount of liquid gasket used:( http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid205/p1ee28ce6b2eed99b9641d2269bc2275b/ef0eec53.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 You could still be blowing oil past the sealing lip. The seal doesn't physically have to pop out. I must admit yours looks nicely seated from that pic. Can you post a close-up? As odd as it may seem , the floppy rubber seal will wear a groove in the crankshaft, rather than the crankshaft wearing out the rubber seal. You sould be able to see if the seal has moved forwards by checking the location of this groove (if there is one). Now you've got this far you may as well hoik that seal out and replace it for the few quid it will cost. When you say there are two springs in the PRV, do you mean two concentic springs or two end to end? SOme pics would be handy. As for "silicone" sealant, you would be amazed if you saw how little of this stuff is applied in the OEM environment. Maybe a bead of 1mm diameter applied by a robot for an oil pan. Ideally none of it should ooze outsidd the joint on the outside of the engine. There is a requirement for some excess on the inside, but that is getting into the detail of RTV joint design. The amount of sealant on yours looks a little bit excessive! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 Oh, and the EPC only specifies one spring for the oil pump PRV. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 Yeah thers defiantly far to much sealant, and my worry is that it could have got somewhere it shouldn't have:( so do ii remove the oil pump/plate to check or leave it be and hope things are ok ? as for the seal there had been no drips underneath so i presume it had been ok previous to the leak, but as it seems to be intact, but if that's the case can the engine loose 3lts of oil though it in a little over 5 mls? I was intending to replace the seal regardless, i will also replace the PRV O ring to, and yes there are two concentric springs, i'm sure i have heard of others with two springs like this, but as you say the manual depicts only one, but i'm not sure if removing one would be a good idea? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 The stock Oil pump has 2 springs one inside each other. RTV from the factory is grey so yes that lot has been off at some point even tho the RTV from factory is beaded at 2 to 3 mm and some weapage can be seen. That looks like the black later RTV and hand applied, Nothing wrong with it TBH and you know its sealing. What I would do is as Digsy says and wip that seal out for no other reason than to run a strand of wire down the Seal drain hole and make sure It's not blocked with excess RTV. Also make sure when you put the idle wheel back for the timing belt that you put some light Thread lock on it, Oil can also weep from that point and it runs down, faking a FMS leakage, And it gets worse with RPM. Hope that helps Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 Oh and you can't Remove the pump without dropping the sumps and attached gear so a big give away is if the RTV is the same all the way round there too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Digsy Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 I remember you took your pump apart Mig Hmmm. The Epc is a bit misleading them. There's deffo only one spring part number on mine. Maybe when you order one you get both? 3 litres of oil gone in 5 miles seems a bit excessive for a weepy seal. A 2-3mm bead of RTV is just sloppy Shame on Toyota Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 I remember you took your pump apart Mig Hmmm. The Epc is a bit misleading them. There's deffo only one spring part number on mine. Maybe when you order one you get both? 3 litres of oil gone in 5 miles seems a bit excessive for a weepy seal. A 2-3mm bead of RTV is just sloppy Shame on Toyota Had more that one appart Yeah they come as a pair and I would be very very wary of removing one of them, Means the relief valve would open at a lower pressure. Yeah I thought it a bit Thick beading But there you go Mr Toyota must have been feeling generous with the RTV when he wrote the TRSM Or maybe sinclair could not make a robot good enough back then to lay 1mm:p Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 Oh and you can't Remove the pump without dropping the sumps and attached gear so a big give away is if the RTV is the same all the way round there too. I will have a closer look tomorrow but the odd thing is i cant see any excess silicone seal around the upper sump join? i'm sure i have read on the US site that it is possible to remove the pump without dropping the sump? but then they have different BHP to;) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miguel Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 I will have a closer look tomorrow but the odd thing is i cant see any excess silicone seal around the upper sump join? i'm sure i have read on the US site that it is possible to remove the pump without dropping the sump? but then they have different BHP to;) The problem is that there is a casting on the inside of the pump that drops down below the midsump section that wont allow you to pull the pump of the crank. It's a royal PITA getting the bottom sump off in situ. Just giving you a heads up beacuse if you undo that pump you are going to be opening up a big job when you find out you cant pull it off. You dont want to end up like this if you decide to pull it off> http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=42556&highlight=oil+pump Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tricky-Ricky Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 Thaks for the heads up:) not really the kind of job i want to tackle at the side of the road:( "3 litres of oil gone in 5 miles seems a bit excessive for a weepy seal." thats what bothering me the most! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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