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INDYPWR
05-04-06, 07:26
hey mates, how much power you think my car is putting out having the bpu?
1. full decat
2. greddy fcd
3. greddy profec b set at 1.2 bar max
4, restrictor ring
5. fmic
6. full 2.5 inch custom exhaust
7. walbro pump
8. ngk 6097 colder plugs

can anyone tell me what would be my bhp and rwhp ? estimate ?

tks ..

lambertpig
05-04-06, 07:43
have similar spec and made 302 at wheels .car auto and was dynoed in 2nd gear so i dont think i was acheiving full boost i guess you have about 330bhp at wheels 400+ at fly and prob 400ft lbs to.if it goes like mine im sure you will be pleased.hi end power is mad

JohnA
05-04-06, 08:50
can anyone tell me what would be my bhp and rwhp ? estimate ?

tks ..
You want the Truth?
Can you handle the Truth?http://www.max-boost.co.uk/stuff/colonel_afewgoodmen.jpg

High 300s most probably (on a scale similar to that of the manufacturer's claims)

High 400s or low 500s inflated and 'padded' for the Pub.
Pub is nicer.:d

SupraJames
05-04-06, 14:14
Have a very similar set-up on my UK, no restrictor ring though, also I have an FCD, and an upgraded HKS head gasket, mine made 375 at the wheels, so would expect a J-spec to make around 330-340 ish at the wheels at 1.2 bar boost.

chilli
05-04-06, 14:51
Have a very similar set-up on my UK, no restrictor ring though, also I have an FCD, and an upgraded HKS head gasket, mine made 375 at the wheels, so would expect a J-spec to make around 330-340 ish at the wheels at 1.2 bar boost.

why would the j-spec be any less at the same boost, doesn't make any sense if you ask me.

Anyway, sounds very similar to my car also set up wise.

I think a good bpu set up can see towards 370-390 at the wheels / hubs but every car is different and it can obviously be less but is unlikely to be more. What that is at the fly = anyones guess depending on losses, but a manual should show a better wheel figure for the same flywheel bhp obviously...

JohnA
05-04-06, 15:50
Boost is not a linear indicator of power.

For example, if you install a blowtorch under a metal boost pipe, then you'll see boost readings go sky-high. Yiiiipeeee!!!!
Well, no.
That won't give you a 10 second car;)

chilli
05-04-06, 15:56
didn't say it was, obviously it tops out at some point, but with all else equal, are you seriously saying the cars would differ by 45 to 55 bhp, I don't buy that without some evidence since j-spec cars have been shown to be just as capable unless you insist on ringing that last psi or two out of the steel tubbies, beyond what is considered safe for ceramics, which probably isn't really that worth it when you consider the gain vs reliability.

JohnA
05-04-06, 16:05
...are you seriously saying the cars would differ by 45 to 55 bhp,....
I didn't say anything like that seriously (or not seriously):)

I said:

High 300s most probably (on a scale similar to that of the manufacturer's claims)

Guru
05-04-06, 16:52
I would expect around 350ish at the wheels depending on the car's condition......

chilli
05-04-06, 16:55
I realise you didn't say it John, thought you were implying it by going along with what was said before... :)

High 300s probably is about right, must vary a bit from car to car and setup to setup.

Would WI (or water/alcohol) improve this figure at all?

JohnA
05-04-06, 17:00
With this sort of mods (as above, save the nipple ring etc) JSpec and UKSpec are not far off --- if that's what you're implying.

The "problem" is that BPU supras don't give as much bhp/extra-psi as one would expect (compared to other cars)

...which in a way brings us back to the fundamental flaw? (http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=43285&highlight=fundamental+flaw)thread, still unanswered. But I'm not through just yet.:sly:

Tricky-Ricky
05-04-06, 17:03
Water injection on its own will not increase power what it does do is allow you to run slightly advanced ignition timing and get the fuelling spot on! BUT you do need a fail safe device that can either cut boost or retard timing in the event of no water/blocked jet etc!

INDYPWR
05-04-06, 20:28
wow! many replies...tks mates...
yeah, before i was having problems tuning the greddy bcc because i didnt think i needed the restrictor ring on my soarer. but then once i installed the ring right after the downpipe, it made a big difference controlling the boost.
i would set up low boost at around 13psi and high boost at 16 (1.2 bar) and with gain at 20%. greddy bcc is pretty tricky. if you set your gain too high, you will get boost spikes but if you set it too low, boost will drop at high rpm's. i am still thinking of switching to blitz boost controller but i am happy how the car runs right now.

how often should i change my plugs? any suggestions?

oh yeah, when im cruising on highway at 75mph, my egt's read between 600-700 deg f. i guess that is normal as well.

JohnA
06-04-06, 06:58
16psi is not 1.2 bar

TT-DEK
06-04-06, 08:24
HI. I have same set-up, but with WI, and SAFC11. Dynod, @ 410 at 1 bar.
Mine is Auto as well so @ 1.2 bar will probably be around the 430 mark?
This is engine power!!!!!!

INDYPWR
07-04-06, 18:52
16psi is not 1.2 bar

i see, then how many psi is 1.2 bar? 15?

INDYPWR
07-04-06, 18:57
HI. I have same set-up, but with WI, and SAFC11. Dynod, @ 410 at 1 bar.
Mine is Auto as well so @ 1.2 bar will probably be around the 430 mark?
This is engine power!!!!!!

i am running the stock 5spd tranny from my soarer but with updated clutch kit. so, 1.2bar is about 430? wow....

JohnA
07-04-06, 19:02
i see, then how many psi is 1.2 bar? 15?
17.5 - 18psi

But don't assume that there is a linear scale of psi/bhp.

After 0.8 bar it starts to tail off slightly and after 1 bar it tails off more steeply. At 1.2bar it tails off even more steeply and after 1.4bar you start getting power LOSS despite speeding the turbos to booggery.
(stock turbos are assumed here. Aftermarket 'big' jobbies might tail off at different levels)