Ian C
07-03-06, 01:23
Or five :) After a funny creaking noise turned into a cracked stud that I was lucky to find early, I thought (what with 600bhp being on tap these days) I would swap all my rear wheel studs. No sense messing about especially as the studs are under £2 each.
I'm assuming you can get your rear hub to look like pic 1.
The hardest bit is taking the old studs out, as this can involve some clobbering which is really bad for your expensive wheel bearing. In order to avoid this clobbering I got myself a cheapo ball joint remover of a specific design from Halfords... (pic 2).
Locate the tool as shown in pic 3. If it's the same tool as I got it will fit although it's close :) It also has to go in at this exact point, it won't fit any other way. Smaller ball joint tools may. The two prongs go either side of the back of the wheel stud, the single prong as square on the nose of the stud as possible. Tighten it up so that it's got a good grip, but before the prong starts to work it's way off the stud nose (pic 4)
Now that all the tension is taken up, we can shock the stud out a bit. Using a hammer (pic 5), tap the tip of the prong. It doesn't have to be, and indeed shouldn't be, a big hit - wrist action only ;) You'll find the stud moves quite effectively - it may go so far as to make the BJ seperator lose it's grip and fall off.
Once the stud is loose, winkle it out via the route shown in pics 6, 7, 8, and 9. Get a new shiny stud in the same way (pic 10) and locate it in the hole.
To relocate the wheel stud firmly and fully, refit your brake disc and get a wheel nut (a spare one would be ideal but you can use your regular one). Wind on the wheel nut (pic 11) and just before it's flush with the brake disc, squirt on a bit of WD40 to lubricate the surface. Try not to get any on the disc's friction area though ;) (pic 12).
Now just lock up the hub. I didn't use the handbrake as the disc wasn't really on properly, instead I used a jack handle to wedge it for doing up (pic 13) and undoing (pic 14) the nut again.
You should now have wound in the stud to the point in pic 15. Now do the other four :D
-Ian
I'm assuming you can get your rear hub to look like pic 1.
The hardest bit is taking the old studs out, as this can involve some clobbering which is really bad for your expensive wheel bearing. In order to avoid this clobbering I got myself a cheapo ball joint remover of a specific design from Halfords... (pic 2).
Locate the tool as shown in pic 3. If it's the same tool as I got it will fit although it's close :) It also has to go in at this exact point, it won't fit any other way. Smaller ball joint tools may. The two prongs go either side of the back of the wheel stud, the single prong as square on the nose of the stud as possible. Tighten it up so that it's got a good grip, but before the prong starts to work it's way off the stud nose (pic 4)
Now that all the tension is taken up, we can shock the stud out a bit. Using a hammer (pic 5), tap the tip of the prong. It doesn't have to be, and indeed shouldn't be, a big hit - wrist action only ;) You'll find the stud moves quite effectively - it may go so far as to make the BJ seperator lose it's grip and fall off.
Once the stud is loose, winkle it out via the route shown in pics 6, 7, 8, and 9. Get a new shiny stud in the same way (pic 10) and locate it in the hole.
To relocate the wheel stud firmly and fully, refit your brake disc and get a wheel nut (a spare one would be ideal but you can use your regular one). Wind on the wheel nut (pic 11) and just before it's flush with the brake disc, squirt on a bit of WD40 to lubricate the surface. Try not to get any on the disc's friction area though ;) (pic 12).
Now just lock up the hub. I didn't use the handbrake as the disc wasn't really on properly, instead I used a jack handle to wedge it for doing up (pic 13) and undoing (pic 14) the nut again.
You should now have wound in the stud to the point in pic 15. Now do the other four :D
-Ian