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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Oil Relocation Kit + Oil/Auto Cooler Info


terribleturner
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I've heard a fair few horror stories of Oil Relocation kits and not alot from people who have them and had not a days trouble. I'm thinking about getting one to make the oil changes easier, but don't want to buy something that's gonna fail on me a couple of months down the line. Also i was thinking of intoducing a better oil cooler. Am i right in thinking the oil cooler will sit between the filter and the Relocation plate?? And finally would it be better to go for the Auto cooler before doing the oil cooler?? Any thoughts please :D

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Never had a problem with mine ....

 

If you are changing your radiator and have, therefore, to introduce a auto cooler then fine - otherwise IMHO stay with the stock!

 

When using a fin design these must be placed in the airflow...

 

Also oil relocation kit on mine really useful as you can fit the oil temp and pressure probes too etc

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Depends what usage the car will get, a 12 or 15 row cooler is enough for fast road work, but for serious track day usage you need to be up in the 30 row plus bracket, and that's a physically BIG cooler to put somewhere. i have just made a set up for y rear wheel drive 2.5 litre Skyline, and I used a 34 row full width cooler in front of the ater rad, and behind the front mounted I/C. The other problem is most commercially available JZA80 kits use -10 hoses and fittings, too small for a 3 litre engine worked hard. You really need -12, but that size hose and fittings is very expensive. I think bought trade just the bits for my cooler intall came to 500 quid. You need an adaptor plate that's billet, high flow, with a built in oil thermostat. I have a -10 one for sale, an HKS unit, with oil temp guage adptor built in, you'd then need hose and fittings and the cooler itself. I can give excellent prices on coolers, hose and fittings. ONLY use proper stainles or kevlar braided hoes, and proper Aeroquip / Earls / et cetera screwed fittings. Jubilee clipped stuff is TOTALLY unacceptable on oil lines.

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Drag strip usage is not hard on temps at all, the engine isn't under load for long enough. Just go for a -10 fitting size set up, DEFINITELY use a thermosta, and about a 13 or 15 row cooler. That should be adequate. The JZA80 2JZ-GTE already has an oil to water cooler under the filter itself, so some oil cooling is performed by the water rad already. It's track usage that's the killer, or in places where road racing is legal, like some of the American 100 mile high speed runs. They are killers for oil and coolant temps.

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Don't bother with the kits by GReddy or Blitz, they are very expensive for what they are. You can get all the bits you need from Think Auto. 19 row 235mm cooler fits nicely in the passenger side. Definitely use proper braided hose with threaded unions not the push fit stuff. If you want a cooler as well you will need 1 oil filter takeoff (go for the side entry one - there's more room), 1 remote filter mount, an oilstat and the cooler. You can't use one of the takeoffs with a built in thermostat with a remote filter or you'd only get filtered oil when it got hot!

 

You go from the takeoff to the remote filter, then from there to the oilstat and back to the takeoff. The other side of the oilstat goes to the cooler. So you need 5 lengths of hose with 10 connectors. Some of these are best made with 90 degree connectors. Then you need 4 male-male unions to hook up those to the takeoff and remote filter mount. You need to decide where you are going to put everything before you can decide what connectors etc you need. I have the remote filter under the car and the oilstat on the sidewall. Oh, and make sure you use bonded seals between the male-male unions and the takeoff plate/remote filter mount if they are BSP threads or PTFE tape if they are NPTF threads otherwise they will leak.

 

Done properly it will be absolutely fine. The oil cooler makes a big difference on track. I was getting very high oil temps after only 10 minutes or so, now I can happily lap away without a problem. I can look out the list of parts I used if you want. In fact, I think it's already posted on here somewhere.

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