Planning on Going BPU

Well after 20 months of Supra ownership I've decided finally to take the plunge and go BPU.

 

I plan to each bit at a time to sneak it "under the radar" so wifey doesn't notice.

 

So I'm planning to get:

Warlboro

Thor FCD

Colder plugs (what type? opinions please?)

Both decats with 1 Bar restictor ring.

EBC upto 1.2bar for those spirited moments.

And i'm toying with fitting water injection as I've read on here that its of benefit to charge temps and might prolong the life of my tubbies.

 

At the moment I have a mechanical boost gauge fitted reading in psi.

 

I'd like to get in addition EGT Temp and perhaps a WB 02 sensor fitted.Are these necessary/recommended?

 

I'm running a stock SMIC at the moment which is in good condition so have no plans to change this at the moment.

Is there anything I've missed off? Any recommendations from anyone?

Warlboro

Thor FCD

Colder plugs (what type? opinions please?)

Both decats with 1 Bar restictor ring.

EBC upto 1.2bar for those spirited moments.

And i'm toying with fitting water injection as I've read on here that its of benefit to charge temps and might prolong the life of my tubbies.

 

At the moment I have a mechanical boost gauge fitted reading in psi.

 

I'd like to get in addition EGT Temp and perhaps a WB 02 sensor fitted.Are these necessary/recommended?

 

Hi Dug,

 

Personally I'd not bother with the EBC at this point - purely to save money. Get a restrictor ring that supports 1.2 or 1.25 bar. I'd rather fit Aquamist than the EBC at this stage.

 

EGT and WB02 are recommended but not neccessary. EGT is more important at this stage...

 

Regards,

 

Gaz.

You're nicely on your way down the slippery slope now

 

For the plugs you can use either IK22's or cheaper NGK's (Which will need replacing more frequently).

 

Chris Wilson decat pipes & restrictor ring are highly recommended, they're very well made and fit perfectly.

 

I did all the mods you mention except the EBC, even though my IC was reasonable condition I saw a huge improvement in top end power after fitting an FMIC. Mine also ran very close to lean while on boost (12.7afr) until I replaced the FPR with an aeromotive one. Okay, the FMIC/uprated SMIC and FPR are not essential to BPU but might be the next step.

 

Good luck with the mods (and hiding it from the misses!), it really transforms the driving experience

Interesting post from "Mr I'm going to leave my car stock forever."

 

I'm joining the BPU club too and expect to be a fully-fledged member in a week or so!

 

I was going to go with IK22 plugs, although Paul reckons IK24s are fine up to 1.2 bar and not to bother with the colder ones. (I'm obviously bowing down to his superior knowledge.)

 

Both decats with 1 Bar restictor ring.

EBC upto 1.2bar for those spirited moments.

 

I'm having a stupid moment which clearly demonstrates how I don't understand these things...

 

If you're restricted to one bar by the ring, how do you increase the air flow into the turbo to actually get it to boost higher (to 1.2 bar)?

 

If you do plan on those 'spirited moments', I would heartily recommend upgrading to the FMIC.

 

Homer also suggested getting the fuel filter cleaned before going BPU, so I'm getting that done too.

 

Anyhow, I'm sure more knowledgable people will come along and inform you that I'm talking poo.

 

Happy New Year, BTW!

Speak of the devil!

Well after 20 months of Supra ownership I've decided finally to take the plunge and go BPU.

 

I plan to each bit at a time to sneak it "under the radar" so wifey doesn't notice.

 

So I'm planning to get:

Warlboro

Thor FCD

Colder plugs (what type? opinions please?)

Both decats with 1 Bar restictor ring.

EBC upto 1.2bar for those spirited moments.

And i'm toying with fitting water injection as I've read on here that its of benefit to charge temps and might prolong the life of my tubbies.

 

At the moment I have a mechanical boost gauge fitted reading in psi.

 

I'd like to get in addition EGT Temp and perhaps a WB 02 sensor fitted.Are these necessary/recommended?

 

I'm running a stock SMIC at the moment which is in good condition so have no plans to change this at the moment.

Is there anything I've missed off? Any recommendations from anyone?

Hi when i was going bpu it was recommended to me to get egt gauge as it is a good indicator that everything is fine on the combustion side of things. I use the defi bf series of gauges egt,boost, as they work really well and look damn bling plus theyre quite reasonable to, now come down a lot in price. Hope thats slightly helpfull HAPPY BPUing and happy new year.

Ha ha ha

 

GO ON DUG!!!!

Dug, if your planning on getting an EBC .. you could use a bleed valve as a temporary solution to adjust boost pressure .. until you do get an EBC for £200 - £275+ notes.

 

The upside is they cost less than £30 and can adjust boost. The downside is you have to adjust it from inside the engine bay with a screwdriver.

 

Just a thought. But it would mean you can enjoy raising the boost while your saving for an EBC.

On the other hand, there are those that believe that putting a bleed valve in a Supra is a heinous crime. My Supe had a bleed hose fitted when I bought it. I was advised to remove it... So I did. (I actually gave it away as a 'bonus' in an Ebay auction; I was feeling guilty for selling an HKS mushroom for way more than it should have sold for.)

My Supe had a bleed hose fitted when I bought it. I was advised to remove it... So I did.

 

Why ?

 

It just prevents boost pressure from opening the turbo's wastegate. Once the turbo spools up to the set boost, the valve opens, opening the wastegate.

 

Pretty much in the same way as a solenoid does in an EBC.

Dont waste your money on an EBC.

Isn't the difference that a decent EBC control the boost properly?

 

As far as I understood it, a manual BC (just a valve) can raise the boost but has nothing to stop any boost spikes etc which might cause damage, whereas a decent EBC can monitor and adjust to ensure boost never goes above the set limit. Maybe not all EBCs can do that but I think most do, and this is why they are worth getting over a manual BC, this is true isn't it?

 

anyway I think 1 bar to 1.2 bar, not really worth the £ for an EBC, just fit a 1.2 restrictor and drive with head and not your foot!

Dug, if your planning on getting an EBC .. you could use a bleed valve as a temporary solution to adjust boost pressure .. until you do get an EBC for £200 - £275+ notes.

 

The upside is they cost less than £30 and can adjust boost. The downside is you have to adjust it from inside the engine bay with a screwdriver.

 

Just a thought. But it would mean you can enjoy raising the boost while your saving for an EBC.

 

Thats if ya know what pipe to put it in!!! No matter how much i look at the pics in past threads,i still aint got a bloody clue!!!!

anyway I think 1 bar to 1.2 bar, not really worth the £ for an EBC, just fit a 1.2 restrictor and drive with head and not your foot!

Now i don't want to be messing things up here but i can feel the difference when i change from 1.2 to 1 bar. I didn't think i should or would but i can. Dug your more than welcome to come take mine for a spin and see if you frrl a BC is neccassary.

 

The plugs is an interesting one as i think the majority of members will swear by IK24's, but i'm running 22's and have never had a days fault with them.

 

Extra gauges are good, specially with the double decat going in (as Darryll Says, Mr. Wilsons and his restrictor ring is the winner). personnanly i have the oil so i know when the engine is up to temp so i can floor it and EGT so nothing gets too hot. Oil Pressure is a recommened one too.

 

Thor VFCC is a good choice and the fuel pump a must.

Stupid question........

 

 

I know what BPU is, but what do the initials stand for?

 

Andy

basic power upgrade i think

Stupid question........

 

 

I know what BPU is, but what do the initials stand for?

 

Andy

Basic Perfomance Upgrade.

Fank yew!

 

Andy

I personally dont think there is anything wrong with using a bleed valve as long as you are aware of its odditys.

 

For instance, if you set it up on a cold day to give you 1.2 bar you will see less boost on a hot day and more dangerously visa versa.

 

As for intercoolers after some testing (more to be done) im starting to believe performance wise they are a waste of money. The stock side mount (even 10 years old) does a very good job.

Thanks for all your comments.

 

James, I may take you up on that offer.

 

As I said it will be bit by bit, with the decat being the least so all the other supporting mods are in place first.

 

And i feel slightly jaded this morning!

IMHO,

decent exhaust, (if you don't have one already),

walbro,

WB02 gauge, (to keep a check on fuelling),

NGK BKR7E, or BCPR7ES, (either are more than adequate),

Thor FCD, (best available IMHO),

decat,

restrictor ring, (to suit 1.1 bar or thereabouts),

EBC, (to 'fine tune' to higher boost levels for those 'spirited' moments with better control),

 

This always seems to be a very personal subject with many different opinions to reach the same goal with claims of either better reliability or cheapness depending on which route you take.

 

Again, personally, I've had bad experiences with ERL, hence why Aquamist isn't on my list, but I do understand the theorys and benefits behind it and if they've sorted out their pump reliablility problem, it may be worth considering. However, my car is set up to run approx 500-550 on a daily basis with 600+ available if I wind things up a bit. I've never needed Aquamist yet and my EGT's haven't climbed over 850. (probe directly after port 6).

 

I'm also not a great lover of Iridium plugs. The tips seem very fragile and break off if things aren't set-up and working 100% correctly. Now you could say that everything should be set-up correctly in which case the iridiums would be fine. But at this stage I would stick with the NGK's. They're well proven and robust.

 

Wide band and/or EGT gauges are also worth having. This could easily be the engines saviour if things aren't quite right. Whether this be a very cold day, a sustained full throttle run and things start leaning out, or simply a bad batch of fuel. Well worth the investment.

 

On my first Supra, I found that the car was detting at anything over/near to 1.2 bar. I had a FPR fitted and the fuel pressure was wound up a bit which cured my problem and allowed me to run up to about 1.3 bar. Now this is a bit of a fudge when it comes to 'properly' tuning a car, but it's one that again is proven and known to work.

 

As I said, all very personal, but the above is MHO and from personal experience.

Plenty of good advice in this thread some slight differences in set up are down to personal preference at the end of the day.

 

Now i don't want to be messing things up here but i can feel the difference when i change from 1.2 to 1 bar.

 

I'm sure you can feel the difference but it is actually only around 30bhp isn't it? I say only 30bhp lol it's still a lot but it's less than 10% of the cars overall power - just wondering if that justified the cost of a decent EBC that's all.

 

I was going to do it exactly as suggested here, 1.0 / 1.1 bar ring and EBC but the car hit 1.2 just with the ring and I havn't really found the need to turn it down, I use the accelerator for that. Saying that, in the summer if the boost is low then an EBC might be on the table I guess...

 

Anyway CW or Paul Whifin 2.5" SS downpipes and restrictors seem to be the way to go, I went for the Whifbitz one and it was excellent.

 

Thor VFCC is a good choice and the fuel pump a must.

 

Highly recommend this out of the FCD devices. Easy to install, is already set up about right out of the box, can't go wrong...

 

Good idea about the gauges, need to add an EGT and Wideband O2 myself, was thinking the Wideband O2 should come first though.

I agree with Matt. A WB02 is a good mod. Especially when you go "single"

 

And if you find that your running lean at high boost .. fit an FPR to increase the fuel pressure to your 440's.

Dug,

 

I'll be selling my blitz SBC-ID II and Powermeter soon. Probably sell the lot for £100 - £120 or something like that.

I'm going to be using the AEM to control boost, so won't need them. PM me if your interested.