PDA

View Full Version : How To: Valve Stem Seal Replacement



TLicense
20-10-05, 00:24
Time to do the valve stem seals on my 1993 J-spec with about 105,000 miles on it....

Before you start the parts you need to order are:-

Valve stem seal (Inlet) 90913-02088 12 off at 3.53 each
Valve stem seal (Exhaust) 90913-02123 12 off at 4.93 each
Cam shaft oil seal 90311-40020 2 off at 6.59 each

I recommend that if you've not had the camcovers off in a while you also order the following:-

Cam cover bolts 90105-06166 12 off at 0.56 each
Cam cover nut 90179-06288 4 off at 0.56 each
Cam cover washer 90210-07001 16 off at 1.83 each
Cam cover gasket (Inlet) 11213-46020 1 off at 7.53 each
Cam cover gasket (Exhaust) 11214-46011 1 off at 7.53 each

You'll also need some gasket sealant. I bought the Toyota stuff which was a little expensive to say the least, but hell, I've got it now so...

Seal packing 08826-00050 1 off at 42.96

If you've not replaced the spark plugs in a while also, you may want to order the following:-

Coil pack clip 90980-11246 6 off at 2.81 each
Cam breather hose 12263-46010 1 off at 5.78 each
Cam breather hose 12264-46010 1 off at 4.98 each.

As far as specialist tools go you'll need a couple of items. I ordered mine from snap-on.

Tool, Overhead Valve GA318A 34.90+VAT
Pliers valve stem seal YA8230 41.45+VAT

You'll need to make a modification the valve tool (which is used to remove and install the valve keepers) In stock form it is knurled. Thus needs to be removed otherwise it can scratch the head around the bucket bore. I turned mine down on a lathe at work. The tool actually comes in two main bits:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01680.jpg

Hopefully you can see where I machined off the knurling:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01681.jpg

You'll also need a length of rope. I got 2m worth of 6mm dia rope from homebase for 2.

Once you've got that little lot, you can be sure that the things that are to be quite honest more than likely to break or leak or just need replacing is covered. So I guess the first thing is to get on with the job.....

edited to add tools required

p3JZ5

TLicense
20-10-05, 00:41
So first of all, you need to remove the spark plug cover. Now if you're struggling at this stage, I suggest you get someone else to do it for you....

There's 10 bolts which you'll need a 5mm allen key to undo.

Once that's done you'll need to remove the two cam breather pipes:-

12263-46010
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01597.jpg

and

12264-46010
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01598.jpg

Mine were recently replaced so were nice and supple, if you've not replaced yours recently they'll be hard and will more than likely split.

Next you need to remove the coil packs.

To do this you need to unclip the 6 plugs that connect to the coil packs. They look like this:-

90980-11246
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01587.jpg

and

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01588.jpg

Again these will tend to go hard and brittle with age, and will tend to dissintegrate on contact so best to order a replacement set first.

You'll also need to disconnect the plugs that connect to the intake air control VSV:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01590.jpg

and also the exhaust bypass valve vsv:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01591.jpg

Sharpie
20-10-05, 00:47
Mine were recently replaced so were nice and supple, if you've not replaced yours recently they'll be hard and will more than likely split.


Yep, or totally solid hard and need cutting off with a stanley knife.

TLicense
20-10-05, 00:50
So once you've removed those you can pull the two engine wires to the front of the engine like this:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01584.jpg

Next the coil packs. There's 2 bolts for each coil pack. 3 coil packs. As I removed each one I marked them so I could match them back to the cylinder they came from:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01593.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01596.jpg

Next to unbolt the cam covers there are 12 bolts and 4 nuts.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01600.jpg

Th real pain here is getting to the last two bolts on the outside of each cam-cover, and the two nuts on the inside near no.6 cylinder. The problem is that the air tube that feeds air to the idle air control valve gets in the way. It has to be removed!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01602.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01601.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01603.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01604.jpg

It's got 5 pipes attaced to it and is held against the inlet cam cover by a spring clip. Once I'd undone the 5 clamps, it was fairly easy to shuffle it out. Be careful as the pipe above it runs to the heater matrix, so don't yank it around too much as you don't want to split the matrix as it's a dashboard out job to replace it.

TLicense
20-10-05, 00:56
Once you've removed the idle air crontrol valve pipe, you'll be able to get to the nuts and bolts:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01613.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01613.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01615.jpg

Now if the nuts come off, but the washers underneath won't move, try gently prying them off with a flat bladed screw driver. If that doesn't work, the next step of aggresion involves a hammer and the same screw driver. Using the screw driver (Or even a flat punch if you have one!) gently tap the washers around. They'll eventually start to turn, and then you can unscrew them. (The plastic bit melts around the thread of the stud, and forms it's own little thread - hence why it's difficult to just pull them off)

TLicense
20-10-05, 01:03
Now before I removed the cam covers I tidied around a little. I undid the accelerator and cruise control cables, and tied them out of the way:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01610.jpg

An I also removed the throttle cable support bracket otherwise you can guarantee it will just get in the way!

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01611.jpg

There's also two last pipes to remove, one on each cam cover:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01607.jpg

and

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01609.jpg

Ian C
20-10-05, 10:15
Hurry up Tony, I'm hovering over the "move thread to FAQs" button as we speak :D

Btw you can tuck the throttle cable under a wiper blade, gets it well out the way :thumbs:

-Ian

TLicense
21-10-05, 00:01
OK so next of all you need to remove the cam covers,

They take a little bit of maneouvring to get them out, but be persistance and they'll eventually come. If they're particularly stubborn, first try giving them a good whack with a plastic faced mallet. If you still have no joy, gently lever then with a flat bladed screw-driver. To avoid scratching the head, wrap the end of the screw-driver with tape.

Exhaust side off:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01630.jpg

And both of them:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01633.jpg

There may be some remnants of the seal packing gasket type gunk on the camcovers and the head near the front of the engine. You should be able to just pick it off it's the black blob to the lower right of this pick:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01634.jpg

With the cam covers off, now's a pretty good time to measure the shim clearances. The gap between the inlet cam and the valve shims should be between 0.15-0.25mm (0.006-0.010 in) and on the exhaust side they should be between 0.25-0.35mm (0.010-0.014 in) If they're outside of these tolerances then make a note of which shim on which cylinder and also what value you measured with the feeler gauge. Mine were between 0.15 and 0.2 mm on the inlet and 0.25 and 0.3 mm on the exhaust - perfect.


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01635.jpg

Next remove the timing belt cover. There's 3 allen bolts. You'll need the 5mm allen key again. There's one in the middle:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01619.jpg

And one either side:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01616.jpg

Couldn't get a good shot of the RH side (drivers side) one but it's in there somewhere:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01618.jpg

TLicense
21-10-05, 00:14
So you're getting close to removing the cam belt. However you also want to be able to put the timing belt back on, and not have to mess around with having to set the timing. Luckily to help us with doing this Toyota have put timing marks on the cam gears, the no. 1 and 4 timing belt covers and the crankshaft pulley.

I didn't get any pics of this bit (actually I'll own up and admit I forgot to line up the marks - doh!) but what you want to do is line up the timing mark on the crankshaft pulley to the 0 timing mark on the no.1 timing belt cover (It's down the bottom - I'll try and get a pic tomorrow and insert it here!) Hopefully the timing marks on the cam-gears and on the no.4 timing belt cover line up. If they don't give the crank a full rotation (360 degrees) it should now line up.

As I'm not removing the cam belt, to help me get it back onto the cam gears in the place I took it off, I marked the cam gears and the belt like this:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01620.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01621.jpg

Now to actually remove the cam belt, you need to unbolt the cam belt tensioner. This is found between the alternator and the engine just behind the outer part of the crankshaft pulley. I tried to get a pic, but it's also just above the anti roll bar, which kinda get's in the way but it's the black cylindrcal bit slightly to the right of the middle of the pic.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01624.jpg

There's two bolts which you'll need a 10mm socket. I found it was easiest to momentarily unbolt the hose lines that run just under the tensioner (The bolts to the left of the middle of the pic, and another bolt on the lh side of the engine). I then used about 9-12 inches of extension bars to get to the bolts. Undo them evenly. Here's a pic of tensioner once removed :-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01627.jpg

TLicense
21-10-05, 00:34
Now the cambelt is no longer under tension it should be fairly easy to remove the belt by sliding it off the camgears.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01628.jpg

I then tucked the cam belt down out of the way without twisting it.

OK so now it's time to remove the cam gears. You'll need a 17mm socket for the bolt on the front of the camgears, and I used an adjustable spanner to hold the camshaft in place. Toyota very kindly gave us a perfect hex halfway down the camshaft to grip the camshafts:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01638.jpg

To stop the adjustable spanner dinking the head when you try to undo the bold, wedge a piece of paper towel between the spanner and the head. The camgears are done up to 79Nm (59 ft-lbf) so are pretty tight. You may need to get some extra leverage like a breaker bar or something. Here's the exhaust side off :-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01639.jpg

I marked the backs of both camgears with which side they cam from just so I can get them back on in the same order as they came off. I don't think it would really matter if you swapped them over though. Here's the inlet camgear:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01642.jpg

Both camgears removed:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01644.jpg

Next you need to remove the no.4 cambelt cover. There's 4 bolts. One either side of the camshafts and 1 each side a little lower down. You'll need a 10mm socket for these.

Once these have been removed you can start to remove the cover. It's a right git because of it's shape, and also it hits the lower timing belt cover. I gently prised the lower cover and with pushed the cover to the LHS of the car. Eventually after some wriggling around it came free:-

Where it fouls the lower cover
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01647.jpg

Reasons why it's difficult to remove:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01648.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01650.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01651.jpg

The front of your engine should now look something like this:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01654.jpg

TLicense
21-10-05, 00:50
So now you're pretty much ready to start removing the cam gears.

The first thing to do is to remove the no.1 bearing caps. There's 4 bolts that you'll need a 10mm socket for. Undo them uniformly, and remove the bearing caps. If the caps are difficult to remove you can prise them with a flat bladed screwdriver. Again wrap the tip in tape so as not to scratch the head. Keep the individual caps and their bolts together so you're not mixing up bolts and caps.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01655.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01657.jpg

Now remove the oil seal

90311-40020
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01658.jpg

Here's a shot of one of the no.1 bearing caps once removed:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01659.jpg

And of the cams:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01661.jpg

So now you need to undo the remaining caps. These need to be done in order. I've got a paper-copy of the order to remove them in which I'll try to scan in. In the mean time, if you look closely at the top of the remaining caps, you'll see they have numbers. 2-7.
You need to undo them in the following order in a number of passes.
2-6-4-5-7-3
Loosen the inner of the two bolts before loosening the outers. I did mine over 3 passes. As I was undoing them there was a little "clunk" as the springs under comrpression released.

No caps:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01662.jpg

Again keep the individual caps and their bolts together (sandwich bags are ideal) Don't worry too much about labelling them as they're stamped with their number on top, along with and arrow that points towards the front of the engine.

You should now be able to lift out the cams:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01665.jpg

I couldn't find any particular marking on each cam, so I labelled them as I removed them:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01667.jpg

But don't worry too much as only the exhaust cam has this larger diameter part to it:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01668.jpg

And here's what it will look like with no cams:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01669.jpg

fisherjohn
21-10-05, 03:17
Tony,

When you put those cams back and the end seal caps put some good sealant round them as if not all your oil is gonna piss out past them even with new seals, which i strongly recommend.

Been there, trying to help you save a crying sesion !!!

TLicense
21-10-05, 23:04
So you'll now be pretty close to removing the buckets and shims. I tried to lift them out by hand, but they were covered in oil, so I couldn't get a good grip. So I resorted to using some large adjustable pliers and taped over the jaws so as not to scratch the buckets. It was then easy to pull the buckets out with the shims still sat on top of them. Here's a couple of pics of them seperated:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01688.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01689.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01690.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01691.jpg

To make sure I didn't get things mixed up, I got an egg box, and used that to keep each valves bucket and shim organised:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01687.jpg

I'm going to do 1 cylinder at a time to help prevent any possible mix up.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01684.jpg

Here you can see the valve retainer (The round disc) and the valve locks (the bits in the centre of the retainer)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01686.jpg

TLicense
21-10-05, 23:29
Now the problem is if you remove the valve locks and the retainer now, the valve will drop into the combustion chamber, and you'll need to take the head off to get it back. I'm choosing, if you've not guessed already, to use as someone eloquently put it "the rope trick".

To do this what you need to do is set the cylinder you're working on to somewhere round about bottom dead centre. It doesn't have to be too precise.
To do this it's easiest if you remove the spark plugs, if you haven't done it already when setting up the timing marks earlier on. (You'll need a 16mm spark plug socket to remove the spark plugs)

To find approximately bottom dead centre (BDC) I gently put a long (maybe about 9 inches or more) screw driver down the spark plug hole, and then turned the crankshaft untill the screwdriver stopped moving down and started to move back upwards. Here's a pic of it st approximately BDC:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01694.jpg

Remove the screwdriver once you're at BDC.

Now tie a knot into the end of the rope you've bought, and then start to feed it all into the combustion chamber through the spark plug hole.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01695.jpg

Now turn the crank shaft gently untill it you feel resistance. This is the rope being compressed between the top of the piston and the bottom of the head and the valves. This will then stop the valves from dropping into the combustion chamber when you remove the locks and retainers. Genius.

So now you'll be ready to remove the locks and retainers. You'll be using the valve tool to do this. However I found that the diameter was slightly too large, so I placed a washer onto the end of it (it's got a strong magnet inside it by the way - this is what "grabs" the valve locks) Also now's a very good point to take some paper towel and place it anywhere where any small parts could fall down. In particular the oilways between the valves.

You then simply place it against the retainer, and give it a medium tap with a hammer:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01696.jpg

The valve spring compreses, and the retainer moves down the valve with it. However the valves not moving, which means there's no load on the valve locks, and the magnet in the tool whips them out the way. When the spring un-compreses, there's no locks to hold the valve retainer in place any more, so the retainer becomes free as-well. (And incidentally get's grabbed by the magent also)

Here's some pics of the locks and retainer:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0053Medium.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0054Medium.jpg

Here's a pic of the valve tool with the locks and the washer stuck to the magenet:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01699.jpg

valve locks - yes they are that small!
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0045Medium.jpg

You can then just lift the valve spring out. I marked it so as I knew which way up it cam out:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0051Medium.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0052Medium.jpg

So now it was possible to remove the actual valve seals using the valve stem seal pliers. The inlet side was quite difficult to pull out, but after a good pull it finally pried free.
Unfortunately I just had enough time to remove 1 to take a pic for you, sorry about the quality, I'll take some better ones tomorrow when I do the others and get a couple of shots of what they look like before they're removed.

edited to say turn crankshaft - not camshaft - the camshaft is no longer in the car so turning it will do no good whatsoever!

TLicense
22-10-05, 22:19
Seal in pliers:-
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01704.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0055Medium.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0056Medium.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0057Medium.jpg

The seal will quite possibly split as you remove it. This usually means it leaves a small rubber ring around the valve stem, you'll need to fish this out:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0073Medium.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0074Medium.jpg

If you look into the bucket or lifter bore now, it should look something like this:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0062Medium.jpg

TLicense
22-10-05, 23:25
So now you'll be ready to fit the new seal. Make sure you fit the correct one. They are different inlet to exhaust. The inlet ones have a bronze finish to the outside of the seal, whereas the exhaust one has a silver/grey finish.

I dipped the seal into clean engine oil (assembly lube would be better) and then positioned it over the tip of the valve stem. Make sure it goes on nice and square:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0075Medium.jpg

I then used the valve seal tool to push the seal down the valve stem. When it gets to the bottom it should double click into place. If you've loaded it with lots of oil/lube it will more than likely "squelch". Give it a gentle tug with the pliers to make sure it's locked into place.

Now it's worth making sure that there's no play in the valve. Take the stem and see if it moves upwards or downwards. If there's more than a couple of mm of play, it means the rope has been compacted down by the lock/retainer removal process. To fix, try moving the crankshaft towards TDC again. If this doesn't work you'll need someone to hold the valve in place whilst you first of all move the piston by rotating the crankshaft back from TDC. Then pull say about 9" of rope out of the spark plug hole. Then re-insert the rope, but using something about the size of a knitting needle, try to push it in the direction of the valve you are working on. Whilst doing this the person holding the valve should not let go. If they do, it will more than likely mean having to remove the head to get the valve back. With the rope back in position rotate the crankshaft back to TDC untill you feel the piston hitting the rope again. Hopefully the rope should be under the valve head now, and the valve will not move. If it does try this again untill it doesn't. (After doing all 24 valves I never had to try it again!)

Next take the valve spring. Give it a check over to make sure it's dust/dirt free. If not give it a clean over with a paper towel. Fit it back over the valve stem. Make sure it's seated correctly at the bottom:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0065Medium.jpg

Next place the retainer over the spring. Again make sure it's seated square:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0066Medium.jpg

Place the valve locks into the hole in the valve retainer. To re-insert the locks I found I could semi insert them by pushing on them with my thumbs. This helped to locate them:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0078Medium.jpg

Then using the valve tool, I placed the tip between the locks, squared the tool up to the retainer and gave it all a good push down the axis of the valve. 50% of the time it worked straight away and the locks clicked into place. I used a kind of pumping up and down motion. After 3-4 "pumps" I checked to make sure the retaner was locked in. Sometimes 1 of the locks would drop in and the other wouldn't. Like this:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0080Medium.jpg

If it does this you need to remove them again, and try to fit them again untill they both drop in evenly.

To make sure they are fitted correctly, push down on the retainer untill the spring compresses a little. If fitted correctly the retainer and locks will stay in place. If they move at all, remove the locks using the valve tool, and re-fit them.

It's now time to re-fit the bucket. Again make sure it's clean. It needs to drop into the bore squarely. It should be an easy fit, and won't need much pressure at all to push it down. If you need to force it, it's not sitting square, so lift it back out and try again.

Then onto the next one......

TLicense
28-10-05, 00:35
Right then, where did I get to...

Ahh so you should now have the valve locks in place for the first valve and it should look something like this:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0003.jpg

So now you need to repeat the procedure for the remaining 23 valves.

As you're going along I stongly advise that you place some paper towel either side of the valve you're working on to stop the small valve locks dropping into the depth's of the engine.

Also as you go along you may find you run into some problems with things getting in the way like engine hooks:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0001.jpg

It's only two bolts to undo each one, and it'll make the job much easier. Engine hook removed:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0010.jpg

Another item that can get into the way is the VSV for the intake air control valve (1 bolt and two hoses) and also the intake air conrtol valve actuator:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0006.jpg

Which has two phillips head screws. Be careful when undoing these as they're prone to rounding off:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0007.jpg

So once you've done all 24 valves it's time to start putting the whole lot back together again. But before you do, it's the ideal opportunity to take some tiem to make sure everything is in shape. Give each valve a good shove to make sure the valve locks are in place. Check that you can rotate each bucket in it's place albout the axis of the valve stem. It should move fairly easily. If not take the bucket and shim off and try re-fitting it. I had one that for some reason was a little stiff. I removed and then re-fitted it and it was a lot better. VERY IMPORTANTLY Make sure everything is clean, and that you've accounted for all nuts bolts and tools. You don't want to leave anything in there that shouldn't be there!

OK so re-assembly should be fairly easy now that you've got this far.

First of all re-fit the camsshafts. You need to apply a some engine oil to the thrust face of each camshaft. (This is the face that pushes up against the bearing caps along the axis of the shaft)
You need to install them in a vertain position. There's a pin on the end (knock pin) on the end of each camshaft to help do this.
Install them to start with, witht the inlet cam, with the knock pin at the 3 oclock position (These pics were taken after I'd fitted the no.1 bearing caps so ignore them):-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0020.jpg

and the exhaust cam with the knock pin at the 11 oclock position:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0021.jpg

Now fit the no.3 and no.7 bearing caps, and tighten the bolts untill the caps are snug against the head:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0017.jpg

TLicense
28-10-05, 01:04
Now fit the oil seals to the end of the camshafts. Apply a small amount of light grease to the inside of the seal to help the seal slide into place:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0015.jpg

Next fit the number 1 bearing caps. Put some of the sealant onto the mating face of the bearing/cylinder head. After taking this pic I added a little more than this as I didn't feel it would be enough:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0019.jpg

To give you some idea, when I tightened the bearing cap, this amount squelched out from the mating face:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0024.jpg

Now fit and tighten to 20Nm (14ft/lb) the remaining bearing caps in the following order:-

5-1-3-4-2-6-7

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0028.jpg

Now here's the trick bit.

You now need to align the knock pins to the 12 oclock position. Use the hexagon section half way down the camshaft and and adjustable spanner to turn the camshafts clockwise untill they're at the 12 oclock poisiton:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0025.jpg

Now undo and then re-torque to 20Nm the following bearing caps bolts:-

Inlet: 1-2-5

Exhaust: 1-2-6.

Now rotate the camshafts again clockwise to the 4oclock position:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0026.jpg

No undo and then retorque to 20Nm the following bearing cap bolts:-

Inlet: 4-6

Exhaust 4-7

Now rotate again, clockwise, to the 8 oclock position:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0029.jpg

Undo and then re-torque to 20Nm bearing caps:-

Inlet 3-7

Exhaust: 3-5.

If at any point you find you can't move the camshaft around, it probably means you've got a bucket/shim that is stickling in place. You need to remove the camshaft using the same order of bearing cap removal as you did when removing the cams the first time around. Check all the buckets are moving freely and then go back to the camshaft installation and repeat the installation procedure.

Now re-check the valve shim clearances. I found mine were a little tighter than before but still within the same tolerances as when stripping the cams out.

TLicense
28-10-05, 01:17
So hopefully that will be the camshafts fitted.

Next fit the no.4 timing belt cover, make sure the wiring loom is behind the cover when you fit it, it's too tight to lift it over once the cover's fitted. Trust me! Make sure all 4 bolts that you removed get put back. (They should be torques to 8.8Nm but I defie anyone to get in there with a torque driver!):-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0037.jpg

Now fit the camshaft gears. Why not put them back on in the order they came off? To help fit them use a spanner at the hexagon section (or mole grips in my case!) to hold the camshaft in place. Use a cloth to stop the spanner from "dinking" the head. They need to be tightened to 79Nm (59ftlb)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0039.jpg

Now's a good time to set-up the timing.

What you need to do is to align the camgears with the timing marks on the no.4 timing belt cover:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0043.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0042.jpg

You then need to set the crank-shaft pulley to the 0 timing mark, with the no.1 cylinder at top dead centre.
To do this gently place the long screw driver into the plug hole of the no.1 cylinder, then turn the cranksshaft untill the timing mark lines up with the 0. NOW be careful, there's two timing marks on the pulley. (As I found out after a lot of head scratching later!) if you're turning the crankshaft clockwise it's the second timing mark that you want to use.

You can just make out the yellow timing mark on this shot (It's really difficult to get a good shot of this!)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0047.jpg

TLicense
28-10-05, 01:37
Now fit the cambelt over the camgears. To do this I fitted the belt to the inlet side first and then onto the exhaust camgear. This keeps the cambelt nice and tight and stops your timing from slipping when you put the tensioner on which is the next step.

To fit the tensioner, you need to place remove the rubber dust boot from the end, then place it in a vice. You then need to clamp the vice up untill the hole in spigot in the middle lines up with the hole on the ring around the outside. Then stick a 1.5mm or equivalent allen key into both holes like this:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0051.jpg

Then refit the dust boot:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0050.jpg

Next fit the tensioner with the allen key in place. I found it easiest to lift the tensioner into place using a socket with and extension fitted to the bolt that fits into the tensioner that is closest to the front of the car when the tensioner is fitted. It's a bit difficult to explain, but after 20 mins of trying to fit the damned thing I found this way to be easiest. Unfortunately I couldn't get any shots of this (I couldn't focus that close!)
Once the tensioner is fitted, using a pair of pliers reach up and pull the allen key out of it's place.
Now go and check the timing again. Hopefully it should still be spot on. If not remove the tensioner again, and the timing belt from the camgears and try again untill it's timed perfectly. Once done remove the big screwdriver from no.1 cylinder.

Next re-fit the no2 timing belt cover using the 3 bolts and a 5mm allen key:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0055.jpg

With that done you can now go ahead and fit the cam-covers.

Once again use the sealant where the cam cover goes over the no.1 bearing caps. Make sure you remember to place the washers under the nuts bolts and tighten them to 5.4Nm

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0056.jpg

Next fit the spark plugs, and then the coil packs. Make sure they go back into the same position and in the same orientation as they came out.

Re connect the 6 plugs to the coil packs, and also the 2 VSV's that connect to the exhaust side of the loom.

Next re-fit the two breather pipes accross the centre of the cam covers and the two pipes on the sides.

Now's the time to refit the idle air control valve pipe. make sure all the tubes are fully on. (I found it easiest to thread it in via the left hand side, right next to the idle air control valve.

Now refit the spark plug cover and all the bolts again using a 5mm allen key.

Refit the accelerator cable mount and also refit the accelerator cables. Make sure there's a small amount of play on the cable.

So that's it, you're pretty much done. Before you rush in though, make sure everything is tidy, and that all the electrical connectors and pipes that you have removed and refitted are correctly seated and pushed on.

So that's it go ahead and start her up and she should purrr like a smokless kitten!!

If you have any questions/suggestions feel free to pm me or add them to the bottom of this thread.

Best of luck with it! :thumbs:

carl0s
28-10-05, 02:00
How much will you charge to do mine when the time comes Tony? :)

UltraFlynn
28-10-05, 09:08
Outstanding post. I'm never going to do it myself but it's great to see how it's done.

bedlam
28-10-05, 09:11
Tony

Top post mate simple to follow and good clear pics :).

Andy

Aerotop Dave
28-10-05, 09:20
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0010.jpg

'Sunset over engine being worked on' - an atmospheric pic for the 2007 calendar.

adi2009
28-10-05, 11:20
Great post!!!

TLicense
28-10-05, 13:36
How much will you charge to do mine when the time comes Tony? :)

LOL well because I was taking my time, and as you can tell, taking lots of shots with the camera (There's quite a few that didn't make it into this thread!) it took me close to 20 hours to do the job. I should think if I were to do the job again it would probably take me about 10-15 hours. So I can see how pofessional mechanics who are charging 50-60/hour can charge 600 for the job, then there's the price of the parts on-top.
Personally I wouldn't charge anyone beyond 300 plus parts, at the end of the day it's just spannering and being methodical about how you work.

michael
28-10-05, 14:03
Personally I wouldn't charge anyone beyond 300 plus parts, at the end of the day it's just spannering and being methodical about how you work.

If I post you a train ticket to Leeds can I book you please? ;)

carl0s
28-10-05, 14:06
:d

Pete
28-10-05, 14:53
I've created a PDF version which is a lot easier to print out. Corrected some typos etc..
You'll find it in the Members only downloads area under Engines.

Hope that's ok with everyone.

TLicense
28-10-05, 15:22
:thumbs:

Pete
28-10-05, 15:28
:thumbs:
I made sure your name was on it not mine anywhere, it's badged as the club and linked to this thread too.

dangerous brain
28-10-05, 16:08
Tone how comes you didn't put the money you saved on doing this job yourself into a set of spangly new HKS cams? :) Good werk fella.

Aerotop Dave
28-10-05, 16:24
LOL well because I was taking my time, and as you can tell, taking lots of shots with the camera (There's quite a few that didn't make it into this thread!) it took me close to 20 hours to do the job. I should think if I were to do the job again it would probably take me about 10-15 hours. So I can see how pofessional mechanics who are charging 50-60/hour can charge 600 for the job, then there's the price of the parts on-top.
Personally I wouldn't charge anyone beyond 300 plus parts, at the end of the day it's just spannering and being methodical about how you work.

I've just asked my usual garage for a quote for this so we'll see, but I vaguely remember Dude charging 400 for it (that could be wrong though).

dangerous brain
28-10-05, 16:28
He'd probably do it a bit quicker though as he's done so many. I don't know what facilities Tony has so I don't know if that is a factor as well.

TLicense
28-10-05, 23:38
To be honest the whole point of posting this was that you could do it yourselves! It's not a difficult job, and if you follow the steps as I've written them down it would be pretty hard to go wrong to be honest!

Just get the correct tools for the job and then take your time and be methodical.

Oh as for my facilities. I did the whole job with the car on my parents driveway. OK I do have a reasonably decent set of tools, but I didn't really use anything ,other than the special tools I mentioned at the start, that a hundred quid at halfrauds wouldn't get you. From what I remember I used:-

10mm spanner
14mm spanner
17mm ring spanner
Mole grips
Adjustable spanner
1/4 inch ractchet driver
10mm deep socket (1/4inch drive)
12mm deep socket (1/4 inch drive)
1/2 inch ratchet driver
22mm socket (1/2 inch drive)
16mm spark plug socket (1/4 inch drive)
6 inch extension (1/4 inch drive)
2 inch extension (1/4 inch drive)
Stanley knife blade (to clean the old sealant off the head)
Torque wrench (1/4 inch drive - 20Nm to 100Nm IIRC)
Axle stands
2 tonne trolley jack
Medium sized plastric mallet
9 inch long screwdriver
Scribe for getting the rubber remains from the valve stems
Medium sized pliers.


Can't think of much of anything else, but generally just things that the average home mechanic has. Nothing special!

Best of luck!

carl0s
29-10-05, 00:03
so does that mean you *didn't* need one of these special tools that I just paid for? and what about the Toyotool?
http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=320581&highlight=valve+stem+seal

hmmph

Pete
29-10-05, 10:58
I think you missed this bit Carlos:

OK I do have a reasonably decent set of tools, but I didn't really use anything ,other than the special tools I mentioned at the start

carl0s
29-10-05, 11:11
I think you missed this bit Carlos:

ah, yes. thx ;)

JohnA
29-10-05, 11:20
But it's not mentioned in the list upfront, is it?
(at least I can't see it, lol...)

TLicense
29-10-05, 13:46
From the look of it Carlos that replaces this tool:-

Pliers valve stem seal YA8230 £41.45+VAT:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/DSC01682.jpg

that I bought from Snap-on. :thumbs:

Jake
04-01-06, 15:03
Before you start the parts you need to order are:-

Valve stem seal (Inlet) 90913-02088 12 off at 3.53 each
Valve stem seal (Exhaust) 90913-02123 12 off at 4.93 each

So now you'll be ready to fit the new seal. Make sure you fit the correct one. They are different inlet to exhaust. The inlet ones have a bronze finish to the outside of the seal, whereas the exhaust one has a silver/grey finish.
Is this right?
I've got twelve of 90913-02088 "Seal, Valve Stem Oil" and twelve 90913-02123 "Seal, Valve Stem Oil"
but the colours are the other way around. 02088 is grey and 02123 is bronze.

Which are the intake seals and which are the exhaust ones?

TLicense
04-01-06, 15:15
Yup my mistake,
02088 is the exhaust seal and should be grey
02123 is the inlet seal and should be bronze.

Apologies!

Soonto"HAS"soop
04-01-06, 15:18
Is this right?
I've got twelve of 90913-02088 "Seal, Valve Stem Oil" and twelve 90913-02123 "Seal, Valve Stem Oil"
but the colours are the other way around. 02088 is grey and 02123 is bronze.

Which are the intake seals and which are the exhaust ones?

Can you not check on the EPC Jake? If no one replies I'll have a look when I get home if you can't.

Jake
04-01-06, 18:27
Yup my mistake,
02088 is the exhaust seal and should be grey
02123 is the inlet seal and should be bronze. Thanks Tony.

Can you not check on the EPC Jake? If no one replies I'll have a look when I get home if you can't. Sorted now Ben - cheers anyway.

Bob
04-01-06, 19:41
Jake, are the holes in the stem seals slightly different sizes? Only I got mine from ebay and can't tell which is which until I open up the head!

TLicense
04-01-06, 19:50
Huh? They should be different colours mate.
A bronzey type colour and silver.
The EPC lists just 1 part number for both inlet and exhaust, but it's a different number to the above. (90913-02090) with a qty of 24, so I guess if you get those then they'll fit either :shrug:

Soonto"HAS"soop
04-01-06, 20:59
The EPC shows 02088 as the exhaust side, but then throws 02123 out and says it does not exist. HHHhhmmmmm let me check the exploded diagrams....

Soonto"HAS"soop
04-01-06, 21:02
Seems the EPC sees the intake as 90913-02090 and is for production vehicles after 01-01-95, maybe it has changed again?

TLicense
04-01-06, 21:12
You EPC is probably a lot newer than mine Ben! Put it this way, I got mine back in '98, and I doubt it was the most current one then!

LeeT
04-01-06, 21:34
Jake, are the holes in the stem seals slightly different sizes? Only I got mine from ebay and can't tell which is which until I open up the head!
there was a thread on supraforums about the ebay seals. apparently they are all the same size but someone did use them with success. i'd only buy these from mr T to be honest

Bob
25-03-06, 13:44
Just working on this at the mo, bought some Ferrea valve seals from Dusty. Just taken out the spark plug on no. 6 (think that's the right number - one at the far end anyway! :blush: ) and it' sliterally dripping with oil :( Also noticed all th eends of the plugs are white - is that okay?

And why hasn't this been made a sticky / faq thingy?

Marco
25-03-06, 15:33
The oil is there probable because your rocket cover seals are worn out, when you replace them with new ones it should be OK! I had the same problem.

Dont know about the white plugs...

Bob
28-03-06, 22:02
I'd just like to add a bit of advice for anyone attempting this:


DON'T buy a cheap tool such as THIS (http://www.sealey.co.uk/PLPageBuilder.asp?gotonode=ViewProduct&method=mViewProduct&productid=8821). It will only screw things up and end up bending, having spent 3 hours trying desperately to replace the first set of keepers, only to see one of them ping away into the front garden never to be seen again (resulting in 48 hours of sulking).


DO buy the proper tool from HERE (http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=72214&group_ID=1578&store=uk&dir=catalog) (<50 delivered next day). This will allow you to stand slack-jawed in a mute mixture of rage, embarassment, and disbelief when you re-install the first three sets of keepers in under 60 seconds.

TLicense
28-03-06, 23:41
lol Ben. Have you finished the job now? If so how did it all go? I take it you took the head off anyways seeing as you were fitting new valves?
Did you machine off all the knurling on that tool as well?

amigo5
26-10-07, 13:56
one question on this nice article
how i will reconize when start the engine on the smoke from the back is from the steam valve

or
i have a blown turbo
since i drive on the TTC mod and i think there is no problem with turbos
?
?
?

TLicense
26-10-07, 17:26
When you initially start the engine, unless the turbo seals are *really* worn, they shouldn't smoke.

If you get blueish smoke that clears after a few seconds, then it'll be the valve stem's. If it continues then it'll be something else.....

boosted
10-01-08, 23:01
Thank you so much for this post. It's been very helpful .... I tried this valve seal job on my Aristo V. The problem being, I seemed to have dinged up the head a bit as I cannot get a couple of the valve buckets back in with out force. I don't want a floating or stuck valve ... any ideas on this or am I now stuck with getting the head looked at by a pro?:(

I feel pretty stupid. I de-knurled the tool but maybe I was concentrating too heavily on giving the tool a good wack with the hammer. The tool must have made contact with the head.

miko_supra
25-01-08, 17:53
just read this. fantastic write up!

d&d
04-04-08, 21:59
anyone wanna sell there overhead valve tool?

carl0s
20-05-08, 15:11
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0042.jpg

You then need to set the crank-shaft pulley to the 0 timing mark, with the no.1 cylinder at top dead centre.
To do this gently place the long screw driver into the plug hole of the no.1 cylinder, then turn the cranksshaft untill the timing mark lines up with the 0. NOW be careful, there's two timing marks on the pulley. (As I found out after a lot of head scratching later!) if you're turning the crankshaft clockwise it's the second timing mark that you want to use.

I am considering doing this procedure (smoke on startup after weekend is shocking now), but feel a little daunted. It's all pretty clear except for the timing related stuff, which is where I feel I might cock it up.

In the bit I have quoted above, you have said to place the screwdriver into no1 plughole, presumably to observe something, but you haven't said what to observe.

Does setting the crank pulley yellow-mark to 0 automatically imply TDC on no1 cylinder, and we're just using the screwdriver to confirm that this is correct ?
You say "set the crank-shaft pulley to the 0 timing mark, with the no.1 cylinder at TDC". Do I have to do both then, or does setting the crank to the 0 timing mark actually set the no1 piston to TDC (my limited understanding of engines suggests turning the crank will move the pistons directly, but I'm looking for clarification :) )

d&d
20-05-08, 17:38
Yea thats correct, setting the crank pulley at 0 timing mark will set No1 and No6 piston at tdc but to not confuse you Just work your way along 1-6

Fearless
05-06-08, 17:14
Yea thats correct, setting the crank pulley at 0 timing mark will set No1 and No6 piston at tdc but to not confuse you Just work your way along 1-6

Please correct me if I am wrong but setting the crank pulley at 0 timing mark will either set number 1 and number 6 pistons at top dead centre OR at bottom dead centre. That is where the screw driver comes in :) with the crank pulley timing mark at 0 put the screw driver in number one spark plug hole and make sure the piston is at TDC not BDC

bolarbag
05-06-08, 19:05
This is a great thread b.t.w its so comprehensive!:)

carl0s
05-06-08, 19:21
Please correct me if I am wrong but setting the crank pulley at 0 timing mark will either set number 1 and number 6 pistons at top dead centre OR at bottom dead centre. That is where the screw driver comes in :) with the crank pulley timing mark at 0 put the screw driver in number one spark plug hole and make sure the piston is at TDC not BDC

and if it is at BDC? Do you rotate the crank one full revolution more and then it'll be at TDC, or do you just turn the crank until no1 is at TDC and forget about what the crank timing mark says?

Fearless
05-06-08, 20:17
and if it is at BDC? Do you rotate the crank one full revolution more and then it'll be at TDC, or do you just turn the crank until no1 is at TDC and forget about what the crank timing mark says?
If it is BDC turn the crank 1 full turn and line up the timing mark again and it will be TDC

Fearless
05-06-08, 20:29
If it is BDC turn the crank 1 full turn and line up the timing mark again and it will be TDC
Actually I am typing before engaging my brain :( d&d was correct with the crank pulley timing mark lined up number 1 cylinder WILL always be at TDC but you also need to ensure the cam timing marks are lined up if not you will need to rotate the crank 360 degrees

carl0s
15-06-08, 11:27
I've created a PDF version which is a lot easier to print out. Corrected some typos etc..
You'll find it in the Members only downloads area under Engines.

Hope that's ok with everyone.

Top man. I was just pondering how best to print this myself. You've saved me a lot of effort. Thanks ;)

JDModified
08-02-09, 23:35
In the interest of helping out here, I suggest checking the seal part numbers, my info suggest whats written here is the wrong way round and could end in trouble, I might well be wrong but please check.
James

TLicense
08-02-09, 23:39
Yup my mistake,
02088 is the exhaust seal and should be grey
02123 is the inlet seal and should be bronze.

Apologies!

;)

JDModified
08-02-09, 23:42
Nice one Tony, There was me hoping a heap of people havnt put them on the wrong side.
:)

TLicense
08-02-09, 23:44
IIRC the part number has been updated now and they're all the same now anyways.

Chri5
02-03-09, 22:35
Great guide, I think the Aristo will need doing soon!

I've never seen a valve spring tool like that before, its GENIUS!!:D

SMiFFAD
13-04-09, 12:10
Great guide i cannot thank you enough for doing it.

I did mine over the weekend and fired her up yesterday with no problems :cool:

dude
13-04-09, 16:33
As has been said earlier in the thread i used to do these for around 400 plus parts and now i am at AFR this will still be the price, we don't use string however we keep the valves shut using compressed air;)

SMiFFAD
02-05-09, 16:32
As has been said earlier in the thread i used to do these for around 400 plus parts and now i am at AFR this will still be the price, we don't use string however we keep the valves shut using compressed air;)

You tell me this AFTER ive done it.. when i live 1/2 a mile from AFR. Shame on you :p

TLicense
04-05-09, 01:37
Yeah but you're 400 better off and you have a nice sense of achievement.
Plus with no dis-respect to AFR, as this is aimed at less reputable garages, you know if you've done a good job of it and not bodged it.

flukey-lukey
04-05-09, 17:01
Did mine a couple of months ago with the help of this guide :) Although I used compressed air to keep the valves shut instead of rope too.

After finishing the job and firing her up I had an enourmous [-]hard on[/-] sense of achievement, but if I'm totally honest I don't think I would do it again. For the sake of 400 I'd rather pay someone else to do it for me :D

Ian C
04-05-09, 19:05
As has been said earlier in the thread i used to do these for around 400 plus parts and now i am at AFR this will still be the price, we don't use string however we keep the valves shut using compressed air;)

Welcome back now stop pimping your services in an FAQ thread of all things! Shame on you :p

I will however leave it in as it's a relevant example to people deciding if they should do it themselves or not.

-Ian

Abz
03-09-09, 22:40
Brilliant guide Tony, very well laid out & good array of quality pictures!

I've had a think with the spanner & I am not good at these sort of things.
Mine needs doing so will hopefully be dropping the Supe at your house next week :d

jevansio
26-05-10, 18:13
Massive thanks Tony for taking the time to document this, I don't think I could complete this job without it.

Just completed the 1st valve & inserted upgraded Crower Springs & Ti Retainers at the same time, so it is possible :)

I just thought I'd update this post as the rest of the valves didn't go as smoothly as the 1st one. I found the tool more and more difficult to use, and by valve three I was struggling to get the keepers to go back in, I decided to make my own tool to compress the spring so I could take my time:

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=110945&stc=1&d=1274986306

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=110946&stc=1&d=1274986306

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=110947&stc=1&d=1274986306

I also just found this pic of SF which looks like another great tool to use, not sure if it's custom or not but it's worth putting in this thread, taken from http://www.supraforums.com/forum/showthread.php?t=589118&page=2 EDIT its a VW tool modified

http://i402.photobucket.com/albums/pp101/dentguy05/IMG_6884.jpg

Tourniquet
31-05-10, 17:56
Do you need to move the rope as you go or is it doing its job once initially stuffed in ?

TLicense
31-05-10, 18:18
You've got to feed it into each cylinder as you work on that cylinder.

When you remove the valve retainer, the valve will drop down into the cylinder unless something stops it.
The rope basically coils up on top of the piston and then jams against the bottom of the valve, stopping it from dropping.

Tourniquet
31-05-10, 18:36
Ok so to clarify as Im a dumbass, does that mean each of the 6 sparkplugs holes covers 2 of the 24 valves...or is it cylinders?!?!

See my problem is I don't know what alot of the parts are called but once I delve in I can see what needs to be done lol.

Thanks matey

TLicense
31-05-10, 18:55
No problem.

You've got 6 cylinders, each with 4 valves. So each sparkplug services 1 cylinders worth (ie 2 inlet and 2 exhaust valves)

Tourniquet
31-05-10, 19:06
I understand :p

I've made several attempts at getting the little locks back into place now. It's so fiddly ! I finally get them in place but the spring hasn't compressed back into place so it looks as it should only poking out higher than the rest that I haven't touched yet ! Am I being shy at spanking it one to push it all in or is there something else I've overlooked ?

Tourniquet
31-05-10, 19:43
BUMP !

Sorry, pokey tongue was supposed to be grin lol :d

JohnHandy
31-05-10, 19:46
I understand :p

I've made several attempts at getting the little locks back into place now. It's so fiddly ! I finally get them in place but the spring hasn't compressed back into place so it looks as it should only poking out higher than the rest that I haven't touched yet ! Am I being shy at spanking it one to push it all in or is there something else I've overlooked ?

The size diference quoted by terminator in your other thread?

posibley?

Tourniquet
31-05-10, 19:51
Im thinking it might be something else as I've replace one on each sie at the moment - exaust and inlet. One of them has to be right but still having trouble getting them both in - grrrr

jevansio
31-05-10, 19:52
Pics may help

Tourniquet
31-05-10, 20:07
Thanks guys, it's ok I was just being too shy with it. After bouncing up and down on it like a hooker with an apprenticeship a few times it has all locked down. Well sort of, one clip pokes up a tad as in the guide so just a question of taking them out and trying again till they both seat as they should.

Thanks again all

TLicense
01-06-10, 00:01
Sorry for the delay. Work beckoned! ;)

If it looks like this:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0080Medium.jpg

Then it's wrong.

It needs to end up looking like this:-

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v649/tlicense/Valve%20Stem%20Seals/100_0003.jpg

Once you think they're locked in, give the end of the valve a tap with a plastic mallet. If they're not properly in then they'll hopefully ping out then rather than when you're doing 70 on the motorway. ;)

leelbuk
23-11-10, 21:21
Hi Tony/any one else who might be able to answer!

Found the following tool on snap-on's site which looks the same but without any knurling and cheaper! Any reason why I shouldn't get this one?

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=78777&PartNo=ga317&group_id=1578&supersede=&store=uk&tool=all

Instead of the one you had?
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=72214&group_ID=1578&store=uk&dir=catalog

Perhaps it is different in size or maybe wasn't for sale when you made the faq?

I'm totally prepared for the fact that I may have asked a stupid question here as I am inexperienced when it comes to the inside of an engine but thought I'd ask as I have no lathe and think 50 for two small pieces of metal and a magnet is more painful than 34! :D

dude
24-11-10, 11:26
IMO they are both crap, I bought the dearer one and really cannot get on with it, it is very easy to hit the bore where the bucket has to go and you will never get the bucket to properly go back in its bore, if you force it there is a chance it will stick and hold a valve open,I have never managed to get the collet installer to work either but that may just be me, that combined with the fact I have not had a head refurb recently where quite a few of the valves did not need reseating I think doing the seals on the car is only viable if you need to sell the car, if you are keeping it and running it tuned it is false economy as any baked on carbon from the oil leaking into the cylinder can lead to hopt spots and detonation.

leelbuk
24-11-10, 12:20
Cheers dude, I appreciate that the better thing to do would be remove the head and do this however most people just put up with the smoke at start up and repeatedly say this is ok/without serious consequence.

I have a leaky cam cover seal so I thought I'd replace them which then led we to think about changing the cams for some 264/264's whilst I'm in there which then again led me to think that it would be a good opportunity to change the stem seals too.

As far as I know I didn't have a problem with abnormal det before (when recently mapped by Matt he didn't mention any) and I've not even seen 1000 miles on fresh oil since that day plus my seals aren't majorly bad compared to some so I think that I should be ok here and changing the seals should at least prevent any further build up as you say.

With this in mind, shouldn't the general advice on the forum be that as soon as there is sign of leaky stem seals that they are changed immediately rather than the laid back attitude towards leaky stem seals, especially with pushing the stock twins further and further where det is more likely?

Oh, and the original question still stands :innocent: is the cheaper, non knarled version suitable for the job? I'm going to be taking my precious time to ensure I don't mark the head/bucket bores etc as time is not an issue as much as it would be in the trade.

TLicense
24-11-10, 13:10
Hi Tony/any one else who might be able to answer!

Found the following tool on snap-on's site which looks the same but without any knurling and cheaper! Any reason why I shouldn't get this one?

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?search=true&item_ID=78777&PartNo=ga317&group_id=1578&supersede=&store=uk&tool=all

Instead of the one you had?
http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&item_ID=72214&group_ID=1578&store=uk&dir=catalog

Perhaps it is different in size or maybe wasn't for sale when you made the faq?

I'm totally prepared for the fact that I may have asked a stupid question here as I am inexperienced when it comes to the inside of an engine but thought I'd ask as I have no lathe and think 50 for two small pieces of metal and a magnet is more painful than 34! :D

The simple answer is I don't know. I've not seen / used the GA317 so can't comment. Why not order it and if it's no good send it back?

leelbuk
24-11-10, 13:14
The simple answer is I don't know. I've not seen / used the GA317 so can't comment. Why not order it and if it's no good send it back?

That's what I think I'll do, was just asking in case you had come across it on your search for the tool and chose not to order it for a particular reason. I'll order it and let you know what I find.

TLicense
24-11-10, 13:23
IMO they are both crap, I bought the dearer one and really cannot get on with it, it is very easy to hit the bore where the bucket has to go and you will never get the bucket to properly go back in its bore, if you force it there is a chance it will stick and hold a valve open,I have never managed to get the collet installer to work either but that may just be me, that combined with the fact I have not had a head refurb recently where quite a few of the valves did not need reseating I think doing the seals on the car is only viable if you need to sell the car, if you are keeping it and running it tuned it is false economy as any baked on carbon from the oil leaking into the cylinder can lead to hopt spots and detonation.

It could be that you need to machine it down a bit more to give yourself greater clearance to the bores. I didn't have any issues with clipping the bores, but I was being uber-careful.

SUPRALOOPY
24-11-10, 20:25
I put a 45 deg angle on the alloy bit as I thought it could hit the bores too. I also found that you do not need to hit the tool just push it down with a snap.

dude
25-11-10, 09:36
I put a 45 deg angle on the alloy bit as I thought it could hit the bores too. I also found that you do not need to hit the tool just push it down with a snap.

Not with my valve springs you can't !!!!!!

jevansio
25-11-10, 13:58
Lee, did you see that tool I made on the previous pages? If you want to borrow it to make the job less stressfull I will send it you :) pm me

leelbuk
26-11-10, 00:04
Lee, did you see that tool I made on the previous pages? If you want to borrow it to make the job less stressfull I will send it you :) pm me

Thanks for the kind offer Jay! Snap-on are delivering the GA317 tool tomorrow so I should know by then if I can get by with it or not so I may yet take you up on that offer! That tool you made is a bit of genius and I don't think I'd have bothered with the snap-on one if I'd had thought about asking you to borrow yours!

dude
26-11-10, 10:54
Thanks for the kind offer Jay! Snap-on are delivering the GA317 tool tomorrow so I should know by then if I can get by with it or not so I may yet take you up on that offer! That tool you made is a bit of genius and I don't think I'd have bothered with the snap-on one if I'd had thought about asking you to borrow yours!

We have the tool that you bolt on and lever the valves down with and that works much better, by the time youve had collets flying around you may as well take the head off!!!;) Ill have a bet that as you are single and changing the kit anyway I can remove the head with inlet and refurb it inc reseating the valves quicker than you can change seals using the kit, thats after you have removed the turbo kit and not inc refitting it.

TLicense
26-11-10, 14:53
We have the tool that you bolt on and lever the valves down with and that works much better, by the time youve had collets flying around you may as well take the head off

Sorry John, but I'm going to have to disagree with that. There's no way that replacing the seals with the head on the car is less hassle than removing the inlet and turbo's, even more so if you still have the stock turbo's.
Paying you 400 is probably less hassle, but then if you're charging circa 50 an hour I have my doubts as to how throrough someone can be in pulling off the turbo's, the head, stripping the head down and then rebuilding it and then re-assembling it in 8 hours.

SUPRALOOPY
26-11-10, 20:05
Not with my valve springs you can't !!!!!!

I was not doing yours..LOL

dude
26-11-10, 23:12
Sorry John, but I'm going to have to disagree with that. There's no way that replacing the seals with the head on the car is less hassle than removing the inlet and turbo's, even more so if you still have the stock turbo's.
Paying you 400 is probably less hassle, but then if you're charging circa 50 an hour I have my doubts as to how throrough someone can be in pulling off the turbo's, the head, stripping the head down and then rebuilding it and then re-assembling it in 8 hours.

The last one I did on the car was an all day affair, I would not do another, give me a car with no turbo system on it (as Lee is changing set ups) with my air tools and I bet I have the head off before you can do the first cylinder VSOS. Note there are no turbos on the car Tony!!!!! If we are talking turbos as well its a diff ball gane but Lee is changing kits so turbos don't come into it, we can always try it for real if you fancy a challenge;)

leelbuk
28-11-10, 22:38
Unbelievable but I did it! :d

Started at 10:30am, finished fitting the last seal at about 6:00pm and the only casualty is my back & hands! I managed to do the job and leave the head ding/scratch free which I'm pretty proud of seeing as I've never ever opened up an engine, even if I did only take the very top off and considering I did this on my driveway in these stupid temperatures!! :cold:

Credit goes to Tony! Thanks for the guide as I wouldn't have had the confidence to do this job otherwise!

Just need to get some cams and do the shims before I can put everything fully back together.

Some notes:


If doing this on a driveway like I did, make sure your neighbours windows are closed or that they are at least not offended easily - profanities were being chucked as often as tools!
My cam pulley bolts were INCREDIBLY tight - almost a showstopper for me. It took a breaker bar on the pulley end and using another spanner to link with my adjustable to get the leverage I needed and even then I was practically giving myself a hernia trying to undo them!
The seals are VERY tough to remove, especially on the inlet side which made job harder as you are trying to remove them with brute strength but still wary of damaging anything. Gripping the seal and turning it about the valve stem broke the seal and made it easier.
I had to remove the heater matrix coolant hose to the rear to allow me to reach the final valves and getting purchase on the valve keeper tool was especially difficult there
I only had to use the rubber mallet a couple of times to remove the keepers when my own body strength wasn't enough
Me pushing with my whole body weight was barely enough to refit the keepers - bare this in mind if doing this yourself. A heavier person should have an easier job as I'm only little!
The GA317A tool was smaller and had no knurling and is cheaper so I would say its the more suited tool however I had to put a few layers of insulation tape and fold it over the end to make 1st time keeper seating much more reliable (see pics) but other than that it fits within the bore with a few mm to spare. Insulation tape around the outside of the tool helped further in preventing and damage to the head.
Whether it made a difference or not I used 3m of 6mm soft polyester rope instead of 2 - I never had to re-adjust the crank part way through a cylinder and it compressed very easily but remained very firm against the valves even with the tool compressing them.
Be prepared to do nothing after - I'm feeling pretty knocked out now! :stretch:


http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/mrg33kman/Fitting%20Single%20Nov%202010/SDC10347.jpg

http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/mrg33kman/Fitting%20Single%20Nov%202010/SDC10348.jpg

http://i604.photobucket.com/albums/tt121/mrg33kman/Fitting%20Single%20Nov%202010/2010-11-28203008.jpg

edge
28-11-10, 22:44
Mate, i take my hat off to you. I changed the oil in h's car yesterday and i was layered up and i was only out for an hour and i was FREEEEZING.
When we bolting this new turbo on then? :D

leelbuk
30-11-10, 17:28
Only few things to go now! Get new cams this week, fit them, check shims, put back together, install injectors, then it'll be time to fit manifold, turbo, wastegate, fuel pump etc.

Should have it ready by christmas easily but maybe won't map until new year depending on how much snow we get!

Kristian_Wraae
10-04-11, 14:28
Anyone has a set of tools for this that they want to sell?

Linty264
13-01-13, 16:27
Fantastic write up guys, currently searching for my first supra tt ATM but I don't think I'll take this job on myself if it ever gets to this stage lol

Seoul4korea
21-03-13, 17:21
Great write up.... I'm getting ready to do this for my 1J.

Did I miss the PDF or something?

Seoul4korea
26-03-13, 01:17
bump

RobUK
26-03-13, 06:14
Think you will be better looking on a mk3 supra forum if you have a 1j as the mk4 uses a 2j and therefore all guides etc will be tailored to a mk4/2j engine!

tDR
26-03-13, 11:56
Think you will be better looking on a mk3 supra forum if you have a 1j as the mk4 uses a 2j and therefore all guides etc will be tailored to a mk4/2j engine!

The 1JZ is a very similar engine.

Seoul4korea
27-03-13, 01:38
Think you will be better looking on a mk3 supra forum if you have a 1j as the mk4 uses a 2j and therefore all guides etc will be tailored to a mk4/2j engine!

LOL 1J is a 1st gen 2J so a lot of things are the same.

mk1its
07-06-13, 21:27
Awesome write up; I attempted something similar on my 04 WRX and time seemed to be my enemy. A wife, own business and 2 kids meant that spending the whole weekend taking the engine to bits was met with abuse! I was removing the engine with a view to rebuilding it (long story!).

Anyway, (yes I will get some pics of my new car up ) this needs doing on my 94 Jap TT, is there anyone near Melton Mowbray (Notts/Leics) that's reputable for completing this work?

It does seems straight forward, and I know I could do it, but with the responsibilities I have (business/kids/wife), I just simply wouldn't be able to allocate the time.

I don't mind driving somewhere to drop the car off, but would just like some recommendations from you guys.

Have to say on a separate note, out of all the car forums I have been a part of, this is by far the most rewarding although there are too many vultures around and parts go far too quickly :d:d:d

Sod it, I'll get some pics taken and get them posted in the newbies section; it is dirty though....:d

Sheefa
07-06-13, 23:33
Littlenum (James) and Bignum (Si) off the forum may be able to do this Mate. They have a unit in Bromsgrove so not too far away and they're good blokes.

DJT88
22-03-14, 09:49
Managed to do this job myself using this guide mostly. Thanks very much for the clear instructions.

Because I also had to do a timing belt change I made some extra room on the front of the engine.
I then also spotted some leakage marks on the water pump so also replaced that for a new one.

Just for reference, I also used the special snap-on tools. This was VERY usefull! I wouldn't recommend anyone doing this without some special tool to undo and redo the valve locks.

Some pics, because pics are always nice.

Front of engine disassembled
http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=182404&d=1395478047

the look you get under the valve covers with cams removed.
http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=182405&d=1395478078

Valve tool snapping the valve locks out of place
http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=182406&d=1395478094

Ripped of the old valve seal, with every seal, there was some rubber left at the bottom.
http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=182407&d=1395478105

Replaced the IACV pipe for a K&N filter to get rid of the ugly irritating pipe around the back of the engine. Also want to reposition the heater pipes some day.
http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=182408&d=1395478129


Welded the crank sprocket when I had the chance.
http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=182409&d=1395478148

Installed some new Whifbitz adjustable cam pulleys, and the new timing belt.
http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=182410&d=1395478160

All closed up and running again.
http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=182411&d=1395478171

Josh
22-03-14, 10:03
Nice work :)

I still need this doing as I feel embarrassed when I start the car for the first time and a cloud of blue smoke fills the street. I bet the neighbours think the car's knackered lol

Dnk
22-03-14, 10:12
Nice work :)

I still need this doing as I feel embarrassed when I start the car for the first time and a cloud of blue smoke fills the street. I bet the neighbours think the car's knackered lol

Mine only smoked a small amount and when we changed the vss they
weren't in very good condition, yours must be totally shot.

DJT88
22-03-14, 10:27
Mine only smoked a small amount and when we changed the vss they
weren't in very good condition, yours must be totally shot.

Mine also smoked a puff for abuot 2-3 seconds...
I was left over with this (pic), most of the seals split while removing them.. And the inlet side is a pita to rip out.
http://mkivsupra.net/vbb/attachment.php?attachmentid=182412&d=1395480435

carl0s
22-03-14, 10:29
I just did this job on my v8 BMW - but I took the heads off and used the big C-Clamp compressors and it was easy peasy!
I had to take the heads off for other reasons really (chain guides, and to drill out air-flow passages).

As it happens I have the original tool that was recommended on here, somewhere.. Never did use it. Somebody else did my Supra for me years ago.

Krimi
30-03-14, 15:09
I've got a question, I have the ferrea valve stem seals, I'm going to install some GSC S1 cams, and Springs, can I put the ferrea seals in the stock valves?? Anyone knows?

DJT88
31-03-14, 18:26
I've got a question, I have the ferrea valve stem seals, I'm going to install some GSC S1 cams, and Springs, can I put the ferrea seals in the stock valves?? Anyone knows?

I've used the Ferrea seals on the stock engine. Got the set from whifbitz. All good so far.
Different springs and cams shouldn't matter as the size of the seals is very much the same, Ferrea and OEM.

Krimi
01-04-14, 01:11
I've used the Ferrea seals on the stock engine. Got the set from whifbitz. All good so far.
Different springs and cams shouldn't matter as the size of the seals is very much the same, Ferrea and OEM.

Thanks :)