Changed my shocks and springs today, all by myself :D

Well, nearly.. I was lying to a customer saying "I'll be there shortly. This Exchange Server is throwing a wobbly!"

Anyhoo, some comments to pass on. Firstly, it wasn't that difficult. I was glad I had bought a couple of 1/2"-drive breaker bars, as my trusty 3/8" ratchet wouldn't have sufficed on this one.

Spring compressors were needed for removing the spring from the old shock so that I could take the top-mount and bumpstop off. I am not certain that they were under much pressure, but didn't want to risk just undoing the nut at the top just in case.

Spring compressors were *not* needed for fitting the lowering springs, I guess because they're ever so slightly shorter. They were a perfect fit and tightening up the top nut pressed them in place nicely.

The stabiliser-bar link would definately have been the problem stage. This is a hex-slotted bolt with a nut on the end. Turning the nut just turns the whole thing, so you are meant to slot an allen-key into the end to hold the bolt in place. I suspect this might have resulted in the bolt splitting, and besides I don't have any spanners, just a few socket-sets.

It wasn't actually necessary to remove the stabiliser-bar link. With a bit of force (! ) pushing on the lower control-arm allowed the old shock to be removed easily, and the new Bilstein to be dropped in.

I am absolutely amazed at how the car feels though. I have installed Tanabe GF210 springs onto Toyota Bilsteins (B6 I think they are called) and the car feels superb. It's definately lower, but it actually feels softer and smoother than it did with the stock springs and KYB combo.

These are the shocks which were on the front:

http://www2.css-networks.com/kyb.jpg

Whilst I'm sure pushing down on the lower control-arm isn't the best way to treat the lower control-arm bushes, it definately is a worthwhile shortcut.

Well done!

Would pay to get the geometery checked for your new ride height now though.

Good Job Carl, so when you coming round to do mine

Spring compressors were needed for removing the spring from the old shock so that I could take the top-mount and bumpstop off. I am not certain that they were under much pressure, but didn't want to risk just undoing the nut at the top just in case.

Good job you didn't just undo the nut Carl, otherwise you probably wouldn't be here writing about it

People have been killed, or worse, by doing the very same

Anyway glad you got the job done, those Exchange Servers can be a right pain sometimes

People have been killed, or worse, by doing the very same

Lethal things those springs, if you don't have the right tools and use them properly.

right I've well fucked it now

thanks for the words of support. Whoever it was that said the fronts were the hardest was talking rubbish This is the reason why I did the fronts first. I decided that if there was a bit I couldn't do then I wouldn't do any.

That rear stabiliser-bar link *has* to come out. Either that or I need an elephant on the hub while I pull the strut out.

Even worse than this, I noticed that the rear "hex-slotted bolts" had a sort of L-plate on them to keep the bolt still while you undo the nut. So I started to undo the nut, and got it out about 7mm, and then the peice of metal stripped itself. So now I have a wobbly stabiliser-bar link and still a stuck strut

That'll teach me to be happy!

Oh yeah I seemed to forget mentioning that I hadn't done the rears yet

Right I've pulled the bitch out. So, my conclusion thus far (3/4 done) is:

You *still* don't need to remove the stabiliser bar links, but you need to push down like a bastard.

You definately shouldn't even attempt removing them, unless you plan to hacksaw them off and fit new ones.

else you might end up with a wobbly stabiliser-bar link like me

a good tip to push the rear suspension down in a controlled manner is to use a scissor jack with a peice of 3x2 between the iner wing and the top of the suspension arm (the bit with the black rubber on top) you'll need a few goes to get it in the right position but its a damm sight easier than leaning on it, oh and fer fecks sake use axle stands

See here for what I had to do to sort my droplinks:

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=42987&highlight=droplinks

I know I'm getting fed up when all I can hear in my head is the Badeal & Skinner theme-tune over and over and over ("it'll never work.. it'll never work..")

Top tips of the job:

1. Use Axle Stands (car nearly went AWOL when trying to undo the NSR caliper bolt!)

2. Rear shocks *must* come out top first. You'll get pissed off trying it bottom first, 'cause it just doesn't happen.

3. Crouch inside the rear wheel arch, and push the hub down with your knee while pushing the top of the shock toward the rear of the car. It'll come out with ease.

See here for what I had to do to sort my droplinks:

 

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?t=42987&highlight=droplinks

LOL! yep.. they are little bastards! Mine will have to be hacksawed or ground off with a dremel or something, when I get some replacements.