terribleturner Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Ok, so i've decided as i can't leave the house that i'm gonna try and swop my springs over. I've got a little picture below, but i just wanna check that there's nothing i'm missing. A= Undo the 3 bolts on top situated inside the car. B= Compress springs. C= Remove bolt. This should release the damper so i can then remove the spring right?? Im half way through and don't think i've compressed the spring enough as the damper is still pushing down on part C. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 How are you compressing the springs? Be very careful mate, you wouldn't be the first guy to kill himself when a spring compressor slipped at an inopportune moment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 I just got some standard Spring compressors from my local car shop. They seem sturdy enough. I was just unsure how much they needed to be compressed. May go have another go. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 I've just read your first post again. Are you trying to compress the springs with the shocker still on the car? When I took my rear shocks off I didn't have to compress the springs at all to remove the strut from the car. It must be easier to to compress the spring once the strut is off the car. I assume you've got a workbench and a decent vice etc? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 Your the second person to say they didn't have to compress the springs But i am right with removing the top 3 and the bottom 1 arn't i?? Then the thing should just fall out, so to speak? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Jack the car up so that both rear wheels are off the ground. Otherwise the anti-roll bar will get in your way. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustGav Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Yup, I've taken my springs and shocks off the car, and then added on the Tein's and put them back on without spring compressors.... Easy enough done, just got to be careful. Gav Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 The whole strut comes out as a whole when you remove the bolts at the top and the bottom. You can then compress the spring on the ground and remove the top mount bolt. There's a manual in the download area. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 The whole strut comes out as a whole when you remove the bolts at the top and the bottom. There seems no way that the strut is coming out. It seems to have expanded and shifted out. The 3 screw at the top will not go down towarsd the wheel arche for love nore money Can't even get it back together to get a garage to look at it for me. Saying that it wedged in place Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Remove the top wishbone. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Don't strain the ABS sensor lead. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 There seems no way that the strut is coming out. It seems to have expanded and shifted out. The 3 screw at the top will not go down towarsd the wheel arche for love nore money Can't even get it back together to get a garage to look at it for me. Saying that it wedged in place Have you got both rear wheels hanging down? How have you got it jacked up? Jacking it up from under the diff is no good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 yeah my arse end is blowing in the wind as we speak Chris is it usual to have to remove to top wishbone?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 yeah my arse end is blowing in the wind as we speak Chris is it usual to have to remove to top wishbone?? No, but I know what I'm doing.... You need to lever the bottom arm down, hard. Be careful what you lever, and what you use as a fulcrum. I have seen a few realy HORRIBLE messes where people have tried this at home, so don't bugger it up. Some jobs are just easier done on a ramp by someone that's done loads of them before! Not being nasty, it's just the way it is. Like I don't fiddle with my PC..... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 I am assuming you are changing the rears, to replace with another set of assembled struts? The pic shows front dampers. Removing the ARB link at one end helps, but that in itself is fraught with problems if you bugger up the hex key "hole". Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 Cheers Chris, may see if i can get it back together and let a garage do it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cashpoint Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 You wimp Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TRD3000GT Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 rears are EASY .. fronts.. I had them done by my engineer.. He does the work at GVN.. £30 a corner as far as I remember? Dont use spring compressors..! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 You wimp Im not im not I tell you, from reading everything it sounds easy, but there's something seriously wrong. Once i've undo all 4 bolts there's just no give whatsoever. my excuse is i'm ill. *cough* *cough* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 James, I did ask before but you didn't reply. How have you got the car jacked up? Where have you put the jacks? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 Sorry Jake. yeah the car is jacked up and i now have some axle stands postioned under it taking the weight. When i jacked the car up to start with i did just one side as i was only checking before i started the job. Didn't want to start something i couldn't finish It seemed fine and i put the first axle stand in before moving to the otherside. Nothing was being obstructed in anyway once the car was up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 It's ok James - I got as far as changing the rears on mine but chickened out and ran to Chris before trying the fronts. I managed to screw up a drop link hex screw which was seized and that put me off trying the rest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terribleturner Posted August 1, 2005 Author Share Posted August 1, 2005 It's just so annoying as it sounds so easy to do and i can't bloody do it. AAaaagggghhhhh!!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave S Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 I'll ask aswell...where have you put the axle stands?? cos you need to be able to force downwards the hub/disk to get the strut out, if youre supporting using points on the suspension youll not get it off Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jake Posted August 1, 2005 Share Posted August 1, 2005 Just checked, the instructions on mkiv.com say to remove the caliper and stabilizer bar link. http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/shock_replacement/rs-1.jpg http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/shock_replacement/rs-2.jpg http://www.mkiv.com/manual/manualtt/shock_replacement/rs-3.jpg Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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