£40 for Mobil 1 (oil and filter change)

Hi guys,

 

Kwik fit do a oil and filter change for £40 using the top mobil oil 0w/40W full Syn oil.

Is this suitable for the supra??

i know people talk about 5w or 10w oil.

no its not, you need 5w40, 10w50 or 15w50 IMHO...........

 

0w is far too thin.......

no its not, you need 5w40, 10w50 or 15w50 IMHO...........

 

0w is far too thin.......

 

 

what would happend if i filled it with 0w oil???

pop? leaking gaskets?? :|

You don't want to - end of

im sure JAKE gets this done at kwik fit. being an ex kwik fit fitter im not 100% on the oil grade though

I used the kwik-fit £39 0W40 Mobil1 oil changes every 3000 miles for the last year - no leaks or pops or anything.

 

If you get leaks from using 0 oil I'd say you need to get new seals not get thicker oil!!!

I used the kwik-fit £39 0W40 Mobil1 oil changes every 3000 miles for the last year - no leaks or pops or anything.

 

If you get leaks from using 0 oil I'd say you need to get new seals not get thicker oil!!!

 

 

cos i think the next grade down at kwikfit the 10w is semi syn.

thats about £30.

im sure JAKE gets this done at kwik fit. being an ex kwik fit fitter im not 100% on the oil grade though

Yep, I do. No problems either. The way I see it, if the car smokes too much or leaks on zero weight oil you can always go back to using thicker oil in you leaky old motor. Mine's been fine.

I'd rather use fully synth if poss and for that price it's not worth getting your hands dirty!

Mind you, I only take it to the Kwik-Fit nearest me and always have the same guy do the work. He likes Supras and takes good care of it for me.

Hi there,

 

Can I just ask a quick question.

 

That oil change sounds decent but I was wondering what the mileage is on your cars.

 

I'm looking at changing my oil every 3000 miles too but also don't know what oil to use or what oil was used by the previous owner.

 

My car has 74500 on the clock and I'm doing my first oil change at 75000.

 

I'd like to run 0W40 Mobil 1 if I can.

 

Any help?

I've got two Supras at the mo (will be 3 soon!) My '98 VVTi has 30 odd thousand miles on it, my RZ has about 50,000 more than the white one.

I change my oil every 5000 miles, it's easy to keep track of that way.

 

Give the 0w40 a try. If the car doesn't smoke excessively you're good to go.

Thanks, will try it in 500 miles.

 

I also need my damn cambelt changed since it doens't state in the history when it was last done, does anyone know any tell tale signs to show it needs changing? I will get it changed but hoping it'll last another 3000 miles before my next oil change since I'm so strapped for cash at the mo.

Don't worry about the cam belt too much. It doesn't do any damage if even the belt snaps - the Supra has a non-interference design

All you'll have to worry about is getting the car back from wherever it was when the belt snapped.

That's a relief, always worried about cambelts in all my cars.

 

Better join the RAC or something, lol.

 

Thanks for your help Jake.

"0w 40 is too thin for your engine"

 

I don't know where/how this theory has originated, but it is certainly not proven (more like internet hearsay, an urban myth if you like)

 

I had been using it for ages and never had any issues whatsoever. Aircooled turbo on an aircooled engine, now beat that for stressed oil.

 

Traders hate it because the profit margins are lower than those on other oils, but then again it costs a lot more to produce.

 

At operating temps it will be SAE40, how exactly is that too thin for the supra engine, when the manufacturer recommends SAE30 (thinnner)?

Enough with internet crock...

 

If anything it will be thicker and for longer, since it keeps its viscosity for longer than the others (this can be proven experimentally)

 

As for it dissolving the 'crust' that keeps the older engines from leaking, that's another blast from the past (early eighties max), same era that came up with turbo-timers .

 

Things have moved on people...

"At operating temps it will be SAE40, how exactly is that too thin for the supra engine, when the manufacturer recommends SAE30 (thinnner)?

So you're saying it's not thin enough to manufacturer recommendations ?!

Toyota recommends SAE 30 (at operating temps)

Mobil 1 0w40 is rated at SAE 40 (at operating temps)

 

So yes, SAE 40 is thicker than SAE 30. Funny eh?

 

The zero in "0w40" stands for winter viscosity when the oil is cold, and in this case it doesn't exactly indicate viscosity of zero, it is a bit misleading here. It just happens to be the oil that flows the most at below-freezing temps, that's all.

Here is the info from my UK manual

Mine is the same, so 0w40 sits well within the UK's temp range.

 

In the case of Mobil1 the slightly extended viscosity range doesn't affect turbocharger performance (increased risk of coking at the bearing), because it doesn't use viscosity improvers like the other synthetics do.

A thread about oil and no Oilman pimping his wares? Can't be right

 

What filters do they use?

Was gonna say - have a word with Oilman, most clued up on the subject and he doess not recommend 0w40.

Some perls of his I found:

 

"f you are "modding" your car and adding BHP then consider your oil choice carefully as the stock manufacturers recommended oil will not give you the protection that your engine requires.

 

A standard oil will not be thermally stable enough to cope with higher temperatures without "shearing" meaning that the oil will not give the same protection after a couple of thousand miles as it it when it was new.

 

Let’s start with the fundamentals. An engine is a device for converting fuel into motive power. Car enthusiasts get so deep into the details they lose sight of this!

 

To get more power, an engine must be modified such that it converts more fuel per minute into power than it did in standard form. To produce 6.6 million foot-pounds per minute of power (ie 200 BHP) a modern engine will burn about 0.5 litres of fuel per minute.(Equivalent to 18mpg at 120mph). So, to increase this output to 300BHP or 9.9 million foot-pounds per minute it must be modified to burn (in theory) 0.75 litres.

However, fuel efficiency often goes out of the window when power is the only consideration, so the true fuel burn will be rather more than 0.75 litres/min.

 

That’s the fundamental point, here’s the fundamental problem:

 

Less than 30% of the fuel (assuming it’s petrol) is converted to all those foot-pounds. The rest is thrown away as waste heat. True, most of it goes down the exhaust, but over 10% has to be eliminated from the engine internals, and the first line of defence is the oil.

 

More power means a bigger heat elimination problem. Every component runs hotter; For instance, piston crowns and rings will be running at 280-300C instead of a more normal 240-260C, so it is essential that the oil films on cylinder walls provide an efficient heat path to the block casting, and finally to the coolant.

 

Any breakdown or carbonisation of the oil will restrict the heat transfer area, leading to serious overheating.

 

A modern synthetic lubricant based on true temperature-resistant synthetics is essential for long-term reliability. At 250C+, a mineral or hydrocracked mineral oil, particularly a 5W/X or 10W/X grade, is surprisingly volatile, and an oil film around this temperature will be severely depleted by evaporation loss.

 

Back in the 1970s the solution was to use a thick oil, typically 20W/50; in the late 1980s even 10W/60 grades were used. But in modern very high RPM engines with efficient high-delivery oil pumps thick oils waste power, and impede heat transfer in some situations.

 

A light viscosity good synthetic formulated for severe competition use is the logical and intelligent choice for the 21st century."

"A light viscosity good synthetic formulated for severe competition use is the logical and intelligent choice for the 21st century.

You should seriously consider a "true" synthetic for "shear stability" and the right level of protection.

 

Petroleum oils tend to have low resistance to “shearing” because petroleum oils are made with light weight basestocks to begin with, they tend to burn off easily in high temperature conditions which causes deposit formation and oil consumption.

As a result of excessive oil burning and susceptibility to shearing (as well as other factors) petroleum oils must be changed more frequently than synthetics.

True synthetic oils (PAO’s and Esters) contain basically no waxy contamination to cause crystallization and oil thickening at cold temperatures. In addition, synthetic basestocks do not thin out very much as temperatures increase. So, pour point depressants are unnecessary and higher viscosity basestock fluids can be used which will still meet the "W" requirements for pumpability.

 

Hence, little or no VI improver additive would need to be used to meet the sae 30, 40 or 50 classification while still meeting 0W or 5W requirements.

 

The end result is that very little shearing occurs within true synthetic oils because they are not "propped up" with viscosity index improvers. There simply is no place to shear back to. In fact, this is easy to prove by just comparing synthetic and petroleum oils of the same grade.

 

Of course, the obvious result is that your oil remains "in grade" for a much longer period of time for better engine protection and longer oil life."

"Something worth considering when you select your oil is the viscosity (thickness) and myths abound but, some of the facts are here:

 

Surely the thicker the oil the better!

 

This isn't always true - even when using a petroleum oil. Although it is true that heavier viscosity oils (which are generally thought of as being thicker) will hold up better under heavy loads and high temperatures, this doesn't necessarily make them a better choice for all applications.

On many newer vehicles only 0w-40, 5w40 or 10w40 engine oils are recommended by the manufacturer. If you choose to use a higher viscosity oil than what is recommended, at the very least you are likely to reduce performance of the engine. Fuel economy will likely go down and engine performance will drop.

In the winter months it is highly recommended that you not use a heavier grade oil than what is recommended by the manufacturer. In cold start conditions you could very well be causing more engine wear than when using a lighter viscosity oil. In the summer months, going to a heavier grade is less of an issue, but there are still some things to be aware of.

 

Moving one grade up from the recommended viscosity is not likely to cause any problems (say from a 10w40 to a 10w50 oil). The differences in pumping and flow resitance will be slight. Although, efficiency of the engine will decrease, the oil will likely still flow adequately through the engine to maintain proper protection. However, it will not likely protect any better than the lighter weight oil recommended by the manufacturer.

Moving two grades up from the recommended viscosity (say 10w40 to 10w-60) is a little more extreme and could cause long term engine damage if not short term. Although the oil will still probably flow ok through the engine, it is a heavier visocosity oil. As such it will be more difficult to pump the oil through the engine. More friction will be present than with a lighter viscosity oil. More friction will be present than with a lighter viscosity oil. More friction means more heat. In other words, by going to a thicker oil in the summer months, you may actually be causing more heat build-up within the engine. You'll still be providing adequate protection from metal to metal contact in the engine by going with a high viscosity, but the higher viscosity will raise engine temperatures.

In the short run, this is no big deal. However, over the long term, when engine components are run at higher temperatures, they WILL wear out more quickly. As such, if you intend on keeping the vehicle for a while, keep this in mind if you're considering using a heavier weight oil than the manufacturer recommends.

The best advice is to is to stay away from viscosity grades that are not mentioned in your owner's manual."

"Mobil one do not make a 0w-50 because the viscosity range is too much to sustain, they do make a 0w-40, this is generally not practical for a modded GTR as it is too thin when cold(your engines dont need it) and do not provide maximum protection when at extreme.

 

The 10w-40 is most likely to be a semi synth or a mineral oil, you can use it but you can do much better by using a full synthtic, so for a modded GTR the ideal grade is a 10w-50 full synthetic, either PAO or Ester/PAO."