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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Do I lacquer or Zoopseal my BBS LM's ?


Muffleman
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Hi all,

 

I have 18" BBS LM's on my Supra. These were fully refurb'd and relacquered about this time last year, but the lacquer is starting to bubble already. I spoke with Fat Wheels who refurb'd them and it's because there is no adhesion between the rim and the lacquer. He then said that I can either have them re-refurb'd and lacquered, or get them refurb'd and then zoopseal them.

 

Not impressed to know that if I lacquer, it's gonna be an annual event, so was wondering about the Zoopseal. Plus Fat Wheels want £600+vat to refurb the alloys, whether I lacquer or not :eek:

 

Anyone clued up on the Zoopseal ? Does this peel over time ? Does it protect the wheels like lacquer ?

 

Cheers

 

Matt

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About 2 Years to be exact.... Although I think it can be shorter as well depending on the abuse they will take.

 

I have applied Zoopseal to my wheels.... Bit of a chore and quite time consuming to do it correctly, but the wheels seem to be ok so far. (about 4-6 weeks now)

 

;)

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Depends on how much of the of the wheel is bare polished metal and how much is powdercated. It also depends on the area around the screw.

 

My 2-piece BBS wheels have deeply counterbored screw heads in centres which are powdercoated and laquered, so if the laquer cracks it will be weel out of sight. However if moisture gets in it will start to make white matks under the laquer that will radiate out from the screws.

 

If the centres are painted or powdercoated then you might get the mating surfaces masked off, powdercoat the visible bits, assemble them and them laquer over the top of everything. That would give you an unbroken skin of laquer but it might give you some issues with ever getting the screws out again!

 

Ian C had a similar problem to this as his screw heads tightten down onto plain, non-countersunk laquered rims, which cracked almost right after the screws were tightened. Not sure how he got around it.

 

A clear powdercoat should have good adhesion because it is electrostatically attracted to the surface.

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Ian C had a similar problem to this as his screw heads tightten down onto plain, non-countersunk laquered rims, which cracked almost right after the screws were tightened. Not sure how he got around it.

 

I bit the bullet and got Image Wheels to make me a new set of outer rims that were anodised (or something) and therefore protected against corrosion and the elements etc without any coating that can crack or peel. About £600 and hours of work taking the wheels apart, cleaning and painting the bolts, and reassembling the wheels again, but worth it for the results :thumbs:

 

Image Wheels are brill.

 

-Ian

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Thanks mate, seeing as Fat Wheels want £600+vat for a refurb, I may have to send them to Image Wheels.

 

Cheers

 

Doesn't quite work like that, you just get Image Wheels to make you up new ones out of blanks - send them an old one as a template. This was only for the outer rim section, not the inner rim or the centre bit, getting them done would be £££s more. But that was the only bit that was kerbed and corroded so it worked for me ;)

 

They won't perform their anodising/whateveritis treatment on 3rd party wheels, only on the stuff they make.

 

-Ian

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I bit the bullet and got Image Wheels to make me a new set of outer rims that were anodised (or something) and therefore protected against corrosion and the elements etc without any coating that can crack or peel. About £600 and hours of work taking the wheels apart, cleaning and painting the bolts, and reassembling the wheels again, but worth it for the results :thumbs:

 

Image Wheels are brill.

 

-Ian

lets have a pic ian. my chrome rimmed racing harts are looking tired. all alternatve methods will be greatly received. i heard that the racing harts are aluminium plated in chrome. if thats so, surely they can be polished? is there any powder coating that is shiny or looks any good?

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