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Supra ST Myster
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Speaking to Mig (vortex) the other day and he mentioned to me about this as an idea, i have now implemented it into a pratical solution, so here it is.

 

For those who are worried about when to start pushing the car from a cold start up this new system now tells you when you can..

 

Basically there is going to be a surface mount LED just located above the RPM points of 3000,3500,4000,4500,5000,5500,6000,6500 and 7000, (in the first pic attachment that is what it is going to look like, only done one LED at the moment,choice of colours) so when you start your car from cold, the LEDs will all light up one after the other starting from 3000 then 3500 then so on till 7000, and then all stay on, so as the car gets warmer they start to go out, first being 3000 then the next being 3500 and so on untill the last one is out 7000, i have done a quick animation (bit crude) but you get the idea of how it will look. It is taken off the water temp sender unit as everyone has one, but as we know the oil takes a bit longer to get to safe temps, it will be implemented in the water temp sender so that it does actually go out after the water has reached its normal tempreture.

 

thoughts really please..

Picture(33).jpg

LED Temp.gif

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Little point using the water temp sender, as you say. Water is upto temp in around 2 mins, oil, much longer. Wont give you any indication as to when you can put your foot down, all the lights will be out and the oil will still be way off anywhere near full temp.

 

Great idea though.

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Little point using the water temp sender, as you say. Water is upto temp in around 2 mins, oil, much longer. Wont give you any indication as to when you can put your foot down, all the lights will be out and the oil will still be way off anywhere near full temp.

 

Great idea though.

 

100% correct dude , the oil temp guage is very imprtant !!!

 

Dude :devil:

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Sounds like a great idea and something I would be very interested in if it could be made to work :)

 

My only doubt: how accurate is the water temperature as a guidance to the RPM the engine (primarily the turbo) can handle. i.e. you water temp could still be high after leaving the car parked for 20 mins, but the oil would have cooled way off optimum temperature, thus giving a falsely high max rpm reading

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ok, what i mean regarding using the water temp sender is that i can use the sender as a reference against the oil temp, not actually making the lights all go out when the water is at its hightest tempreture.. so basically putting a time delay on each of the steps as the resistance is getting higher/lower from the sender unit as i know the water gets warm a lot quicker than oil, also not many people have oil temp senders/gauges or wants the hassle of installing them.. if people do have them installed then it can work straight from the oil temp sender,

 

this is just another option...

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To make a 'REAL' kit you would only need to source some oil temp senders (without guages ) its relatively easy to fit one using the Lexus bolt with the facility to put the sender in the middle of it .

Whilst your looking for new products how about a knock detector ala knock link , you allready have 2 knock detectors and the wiring into the cab of the car ????? a cheaper one of these would sell very well .

 

Dude :devil:

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yeah dude, just thinking really it wouldnt be much hassle to get maybe some sump plugs made up/or bought and then drilled through with a thread in the middle then screwing the sender in there, i know Chris Wilson has said he can do this... or if they can be bought ready to fit? As the sender units are normally the same size and thread pitch..

that would be more acurate than the other way plus less electronics :thumbs:

 

Regarding the knock sensor yes there is 2 inputs to the ECU, front of engine and rear of engine, does it matter which one it goes to, to get its input? or is it from both?

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I think this is a really good idea. I'm assuming you are going to use some kind of bar graph driver IC to light the LEDs?

 

I was just thinking that it might be possible to use two such drivers to light the LEDs based on temperature AND load (which I think would be more representative of whether you are "thrashing it" or not.

 

Imagine two variable voltage outputs, one from the oil temp sender and one from the MAP sender linked in a 10x10 temperature / load matrix using AND gates (yes, you would need 100 or them - bit of a pain, that).

 

This wouldn't be quite as "bling" because the output would be a single LED and/or buzzer that says "WHOA!!" when you go into a no-go region.

 

Since load is a direct measurement of how hard you are pushing (whereas RPM isn't) this could be the ultimate guide to when it was safe to go for it.

 

Thoughts?

load versus temp warning map.doc

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Ahh kinda like the variable rev limit that I think the BMW's have these days. I've been asking AEM to implement this as a firmware upgrade, but having some kind of light arrangement around the rev-counter to let you know where the current "rev limit" is, is a great idea.

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What about transmission fluid temps? these take even longer than oil temps to get up and go.

But I agree, oil temps are the ones to go for.

 

Doesn't the ECU in the autos already manipulate the gearbox-changeover revs according to engine temps?

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This wouldn't be quite as "bling" because the output would be a single LED and/or buzzer that says "WHOA!!" when you go into a no-go region.

...or of course you could use it to cut fuel (not sure of any inherent running-lean risks with doing this) and effectively have a BMW-like rev limit.

 

It would have to be easily turn-off-and-onable though, in case of a malfunction.

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Digsy, some good points and suggestions there, do you know how the map sensor actually works? im not that familar with it, i think from what people have said its a definate go ahead with getting the readings from the oil temps so will look into getting a sump plug made up with a threaded hole for sender units to be screwed into.. unless anyone suggests other wise??

 

Also having a rev limit was an suggestion also so you cant rev over the area that is still lit up, but will have to look into that as well to see how to get that to work..

 

Aero dave.. Very close to the finish of the active spoiler box, should be the end of the week, just need to test it on someones car as mine has been removed so any volunteers please?? :p

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Guest Usmann A

The map sensor works by having a constant 5V applied to a cermaic element within the circuitry, and thus the pressure exterted upon the ceramic tile then sends a 0-5V feed to the EMS, directly proportional to the ceramics electron transfer VS molecular state I would assume.

Its alot more depthy to how it ACTUALLY converts the ceramic pressure to a V signal(ie transducer of some sort)

I will find out more on the above.... I have some info on it here somewhere ..... :complain:

 

Ive worked with alot of PTC,NTC devices but they are temperature related, ie the temps of that certain substance affect thier conductability and thus used as switching device. But this is a tad different ... :rtfm:

 

I see what you are trying todo, and what Digsy says seems to be a good foundation for this device to work. Good Luck! :cool:

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Aero dave.. Very close to the finish of the active spoiler box, should be the end of the week, just need to test it on someones car as mine has been removed so any volunteers please?? :p

 

Mine at the end of May? Naturally if it blows the car up I shall expect a replacement TT Aerotop sourced from Japan as compensation :D

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