Timing belt help

Partly through putting the engine back together from doing a head gasket change. We left the timing belt in place with the marks on for the timing cover.. thing is now when we’re putting it back together it won’t go back over the cam gears?

I know the tensioner is underneath the bottom timing cover but I wondered if there was a way to get the belt on without removing the crank and lower cover. Or am I going to have to bite the bullet and get the crank off!

Cheers

Is the tensioner outside the cover, from memory I think it is, look from beneath up by the alternator/oil pump gap, x2 10 or 12mm bolts. If they are visible then back them both out a tad and you might get the slack to pop it over. Really the tensioner should be retentioned properly with the 'hand grenade pin' though. Trying to find a pic to fill in the gaps of my hazy memory.

Also the cams may need a tweak rotation wise a fraction, once on give the crank a couple of clockwise rotations and recheck the timing marks.

Just found a pic, it bolts into the oil pump casing so is visible.....

Just what I needed! Thank you!! I’ll give that a try Monday, we were certain that there was a way without taking all the bottom cover off. Rain and light killed it off today though before we could look further!

Thanks again!

If it does pop back on, you could then clamp it in place on the cam gears, remove the tensioner completely and compress it (in stages) and fit a pin then refit and pull the pin (careful of hitting the rad) but all depends on access, and for me how much you have to back it off in the first place.

I would remove the tensioner completely, check it for leaks while you are there and compress it in a vice to re-set it. You can put a 1.5mm allen key through the hole instead of the pin it comes with from new.

I would do this over trying to just back it off a few threads. It will give you a false indication on if the bolts are tight that hold the tensioner on as you will be trying to compress the pin whilst tightening the bolts.

Personally, i would think its easier to fully remove and take less time. Will give you alot more freedom and movement on the timing belt to get it lined up to a point that you are happy. Then bolt the tensioner back in fully using the 2 x ‘m8 capheads and finally pull the 1.5mm allen key out thats keeping it compressed.

Jobs a good en

That is indeed the proper way

Its a bit awkward to get to but is removable no worries . You won't get enough slack by just removing the bolts and will probably damage something. Just remove it and as mentioned use an allen key to lock it, then rebolt it on

Decided on changing the belt tensioner and idler if the crank has to come off, and we’ve got a seal for that with the gasket kit so might as well do the lot! Save future hassle! Cheers for the replies !