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1000+ 2JZ build


Supra-love
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Looking for advice or recommendations on if or what I may need on top of my current list below.

 

This is just for block and head etc, turbo and fuelling after

 

All new ancillaries, from water pump, oil pump, seals, stem seals etc etc.

Racing gates timing kit

Manley pistons

Manley tuff rods

King race bearings

Arp mains

Ferret +1mm valves

Dual valve springs

Titanium retainers

Seats

Locks

All machine work

Balanced and polished oem crank

billet main caps full set

gsc stage 3 high lift camshafts

 

This build is looking to achieve a comfortable reliable running 1000+ bhp 2JZGTE engine

Edited by Supra-love (see edit history)
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I think they will come as standard with the Tuff rods but just make sure they have a set of ARP 625+ fasteners or similar as it looks like you'll be revving higher than stock? ARP 2000's won't like that for very long.

 

Wrist pin on the pistons as well, some Manley's come with smaller ones as standard and offer an extreme version as an option that you should opt for.

 

Some ARP head studs too :thumbs:

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JP only had bigger pistons and he had 1300whp I recall. I don't think a stroker is needed for 1khp. I Think it's a help for area under the curve but not a must.

 

There are masses of posts on here about how people have done it. Interesting ones are people using un opened engine with a stock intake manifold.

 

Head work makes it easier and cams are really needed.

 

There are so many posts online and here. But if you aren't building it swamps is right and speak to your builder.

 

Chris Wilson is also another name in the hat. Whifbitz sell some cool stuff, if your serious give Paul a ring and ask for a real general estimate to give you an idea.

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Yea will be adding oem head gasket set. With new stem seals etc.

 

Already got billet tensioner and welded sprocket.

 

Thanks, will look into dampener, and oil pump was going to be new oem

 

I only opted to go for billet main caps for safety, and 625s for rev ranges.

 

Polished balanced crank will be plenty good enough but what’s their limit?

Edited by Supra-love (see edit history)
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Few things you will need to add to your list

 

OEM head gasket

ATI damper

Billet timing belt bracket

PHR oil pump

 

No need for billet main caps at that power or the 625+ bolts

 

Rod bolts have less to do with power and more rev range. A built head means it’ll probably be revving way past 7.5k rpm and 625’s will be a must

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Rod bolts have less to do with power and more rev range. A built head means it’ll probably be revving way past 7.5k rpm and 625’s will be a must

 

Have my own supra going for a built head and bottom end in the next few weeks, engine builder I spoke to said no need for these, the shops I purchased all my parts from (different shops) all said the same, no need unless going massive power well over 1000bhp

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For the price of upgraded materials purely on bolts. Is it not worth doing anyway.

 

If it's down to just a few quid, and there are varying opinions, surely easier just to change the bolts and be covered.

 

Who you using Shane

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@ Noz

 

Mike Dean @ DeaneMsport is doing my build for me, local enough to me too here in Cork. Purchased all my stuff from Real Street. He well known over here for his builds, he did his brothers engine in his drift car, James Deane.

 

Each to their own really, if you want to spend the extra cash on those parts then that is totally up to you, 625+ bolts are about 500 quid, the billet main caps are probably the same, another 500 quid, then the machine shop charges to do a line bore etc doesn't be long adding up.

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@ Noz

 

Mike Dean @ DeaneMsport is doing my build for me, local enough to me too here in Cork. Purchased all my stuff from Real Street. He well known over here for his builds, he did his brothers engine in his drift car, James Deane.

 

Each to their own really, if you want to spend the extra cash on those parts then that is totally up to you, 625+ bolts are about 500 quid, the billet main caps are probably the same, another 500 quid, then the machine shop charges to do a line bore etc doesn't be long adding up.

 

Sounds like you're talking about 625 head studs? Again, the need for 625 rod bolts are because of the higher rev limit. You could be making 800hp and need them if you're revving to 9 grand.

Edited by Style (see edit history)
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Ya sorry I was referring to the 625+ head studs

 

I was also advised to go for thicker piston wrist pins

 

 

These wrist rings mate?

 

https://www.realstreetperformance.com/866-22mm-x-2-250-x-230-9310-steel-wrist-pin-je-pistons-straight-wall-chamfered-edge.html

 

They also recommended these head bolts for me

 

https://www.realstreetperformance.com/arp-main-stud-kit-toyota-supra-mkiv-2jzgte.html

Edited by Supra-love (see edit history)
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My current list now looks like this.

 

CP Pistons Toyota 86.5mm 10.0 9.1.1.

Je Pistons .230" Wall 9310 2.250" Length .866" Width Wrist Pins.

Brian Crower HD Heavy Duty BC625+ H Beam Rods.

ACL Race Rod Bearing SET STD Size.

ACL Race Main Bearing SET STD Size.

ACL Thrust Washerz

Real Street Performance Billet Steel Main Cap set.

ARP Main Stud Kit.

PHR Oil Squirter Block-Off (Delete)

ARP Headstuds.

OEM 2JZ GTE Supra Complete Engine Gasket Kit.

Brian Crower Stage 3+ Cams 276 276.

Ferrea Dual Valvesprings & Titanium Retainers Kit.

Ferrea High Pressure Dual Valve Springs.

Ferrea High Pressure Titanium Retainer.

Ferrea 6mm Valve Locks Keepers.

Ferrea Intake & Exhaust Valve Guides.

Ferrea Exhaust Valve Guide STD.

Ferrea Intake Valve Guide STD.

GSC 6mm Valve Seal Kit.

PHR Billet Adjustable Locking Cam Gear BLACK.

Powerhouse Racing PHR Modified Oil Pump.

ATI Super Damper Crank Pulley.

Gates Serpentine Belt for ATI 918562 Harmonic Dampener.

PHR Performance Thermostat 155F 68C.

Oem water pump.

Gates racing cam belt kit, with billet tensioner and welded sprocket

 

Hopefully I’ve covered everything now

Edited by Supra-love (see edit history)
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You should delete these from your list lol no need for this, just looks like an expensive machined part at a stupid price

PHR Oil Squirter Block-Off (Delete)

 

removing the factory oil squirters we increase oil pressure which can greatly benefit bearing life. On short run vehicles or motors with billet pistons, cooling effects from oil squirters are minimal, whereas bearing life becomes critical.

 

$151 for the set.

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Chris Wilson commented on these a few years back

 

''Obviously the less oil is being lost past bearing clearances and through squirters and via oil pump wear on the rotors and housing, the higher the potential pressure. BUT given the flow of the stock pump is more than adequate to run the squirters AND allow as high an oil pressure as needed and more, (and *more* pressure is not usually any benefit), why lose the piston crown oil cooling? Seems someone thought "Let's CNC some cheap parts, sell them for a huge profit", *THEN* trying to think up a raison d'etre for them.''

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Chris Wilson commented on these a few years back

 

''Obviously the less oil is being lost past bearing clearances and through squirters and via oil pump wear on the rotors and housing, the higher the potential pressure. BUT given the flow of the stock pump is more than adequate to run the squirters AND allow as high an oil pressure as needed and more, (and *more* pressure is not usually any benefit), why lose the piston crown oil cooling? Seems someone thought "Let's CNC some cheap parts, sell them for a huge profit", *THEN* trying to think up a raison d'etre for them.''

 

Perfect thanks for that mate!

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What compression ratio are you thinking of running? Crappy fuel in the UK means you're kind of limited to 8.5 - 9.0:1 if want to run a good amount of boost. E85 / methanol etc. will obviously help with this but it all depends on how readily available that stuff is to you. 99 RON V-Power over here is like 93 octane in the states in case you're asking Real Street etc. for advice on the subject.

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