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Crank pulley bolt wont budge


Dave
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tried the starter method a few times but it wont budge. so, just so ive got this right, got my socket bar wedged under the drivers side chassis as the engine turns clockwise [my brain has fried],should loosen the bolt ? been out there for couple of hours plenty of wd on it all week .think I need the locking bar and a large pole on the socket bar.

any thoughts.:(:(:(

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It required a 3m scaffolding pole and 4 strong men to shift the bolt on mine.

We broke 3 Snap-on impact sockets too.

Don't waste your time with a spring steel wrecking bar, the "spring" loses the torque needed to shift it.

 

got my sons off pretty easy with a long scaffold bar a locking bar [loaned from a club member ]

 

can you buy the tool from Toyota to lock the pulley ??

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I forgot to mention the locking bar.

 

It took the Toyota main dealers workshop 3-days to get mine undone, it was the tightest one they have had to deal with.

 

It wasn't until they stopped using their expensive/useless spring-steel breaker bars and used my stiff one fitted with a cheapie impact socket that did the trick.

 

When it cracked loose, it sounded like a rifle shot.

Edited by David P (see edit history)
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tried the starter method a few times but it wont budge. so, just so ive got this right, got my socket bar wedged under the drivers side chassis as the engine turns clockwise [my brain has fried],should loosen the bolt ? been out there for couple of hours plenty of wd on it all week .think I need the locking bar and a large pole on the socket bar.

any thoughts.:(:(:(

I used a decent battery powered impact gun had to do a bit more work needed had to take the radiator out i needed the room to extract the pully anyway

 

 

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how does this work ??https://www.amazon.com/Schley-SCH64300-Toyota-Harmonic-Holding/dp/B0051XDBBG

 

The two bolts clamp the piece into the recess on the crank pulley the you need to add your own breaker bar to the square hole and brace it against he floor or chassis, then you can attack the bolt with another breaker bar/ scaffold pole!

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The two bolts clamp the piece into the recess on the crank pulley the you need to add your own breaker bar to the square hole and brace it against he floor or chassis, then you can attack the bolt with another breaker bar/ scaffold pole!

 

Going to try and make a pulley holder from some 2x4 ,do you know what size the two small bolt holes in the pulley are ?

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Going to try and make a pulley holder from some 2x4 ,do you know what size the two small bolt holes in the pulley are ?

 

Think you will be very lucky to make one from wood and it working.

 

My first NA was a nightmare to get out, couple of "garages" tried and failed as did the famous starter method. I ended up making a tool out of 2 pieces of old angle iron, bolted it together in a y with the long leg sitting on the chassis legs. When they are as tight as that your locking tool needs to be flat against the pulley face, any movement and it will all start to twist twist and break. Also worth mentioning that you can drill the holes in the old pulley and re-tap with M10 if you screw the threads up. Once you have a decent locking tool and a long bar you will be fine, but be careful when it does finally crack it really does go. There is another way of locking it up by removing the big rubber cover on the back of the bell housing and locking up the flywheel, never used that method myself though as once I had built the as rough as tool I have since had no issues and its been used on several cars now.

 

Edit:

 

Here you are, a picture of the tool from back then

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?282646-Removing-Crank-Pulley-2JZGE/page2&highlight=pulley+shane

 

And, heres a thread where the ever helpful Scotter provided the dimensions I needed to make the tool, more then 10 years ago!

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?119864-Crank-pulley-question&highlight=pulley+shane

Edited by Shane (see edit history)
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I agree the threads might strip and/or bolts bend, I should be able to send you my all in one locking and puller tool but I absolutely hate loaning it out at all but especially by post. Seems a bit bar humbug/less helpful but I really would struggle to replace it.

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Think you will be very lucky to make one from wood and it working.

 

My first NA was a nightmare to get out, couple of "garages" tried and failed as did the famous starter method. I ended up making a tool out of 2 pieces of old angle iron, bolted it together in a y with the long leg sitting on the chassis legs. When they are as tight as that your locking tool needs to be flat against the pulley face, any movement and it will all start to twist twist and break. Also worth mentioning that you can drill the holes in the old pulley and re-tap with M10 if you screw the threads up. Once you have a decent locking tool and a long bar you will be fine, but be careful when it does finally crack it really does go. There is another way of locking it up by removing the big rubber cover on the back of the bell housing and locking up the flywheel, never used that method myself though as once I had built the as rough as tool I have since had no issues and its been used on several cars now.

 

Edit:

 

Here you are, a picture of the tool from back then

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?282646-Removing-Crank-Pulley-2JZGE/page2&highlight=pulley+shane

 

And, heres a thread where the ever helpful Scotter provided the dimensions I needed to make the tool, more then 10 years ago!

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?119864-Crank-pulley-question&highlight=pulley+shane

 

I wasn’t lucky the wood cracked where I drilled holes for the bolts damn

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