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Crank NO start!! Na-T Build


nowak
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Looking for any help.

Been stuck with this for about a month now[ANGRY][/ANGRY],

I build my na-t with a cheap gt35 then it decided to poop itself and spill hot oil all over the manifold causing it to burst into flames,

Luckly i had an extinguisher and managed to put it out before any major damage was done.

I got on with tidying the mess,

So i went with a new turbo holset hx52 11cm.

I then realised it wont clear my dizzy so i bought a 4 runner one.

After that i realised that my intake wont fit over the turbo, so i decided to go with ffim so i got a second hand speedtek one with a fuel rail and a throttle, then bought new seals for injectors and a new tomei replica fpr.

I got it all put together and now it wont START!!,

It cranks and cranks but nothing, i definatly get fuel in the rail as i had a leak and it pished everywhere, also i pulled the spark plugs and they are sparking, manualy plugged injectors to 12v and i can hear them clicking.

The strangest thing is... when i spray some electrical cleaner/brake cleaner into the manifold the car will start and will run fine..

Any idea what could be causing this?

Any help would be appriciated [sAD][/sAD]

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I'd say it's fuel related if you can get the car started with a squirt of brake cleaner but it won't fire without it. The stock ECU probably isn't going to like any changes made to the fuel system. If the injectors are still standard, the FPR might be upsetting it

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I have read on other forums that when changing to the 4 runner dizzy cap a timing adjustment is required (10degrees I think though cant remember if it is retarded or advanced). Might be worth checking the timing with a timing light as this may be the problem.

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Thanks for the ideas guys i might try standard fpr with the oem rail later, yeah i tried setting the timing to 10 degrees but no luck, and i cant put the old dizzy back on, also i have noticed the rpm guage doesnt move when am cranking but works ok once its running could that be the cam sensor?

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Does the new throttle body rotate in the same way as the OEM GE one? Otherwise the sensor could be on backward.

 

Yeah... i think so ha ill need to double check, also last night i checked and my injectors are not getting 12v power anymore and now it wont even start with a spray of break cleaner.

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Right when this happened to me it was an issue with the earth, where have you got the ignitor bolted? give the area a good clean to make sure its got a good earth. That's what my issue was. Also when you fit the 4runner the numbers are different. http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4921

 

try that it might work. pretty sure the timing should be 10deg BTDC

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Right when this happened to me it was an issue with the earth, where have you got the ignitor bolted? give the area a good clean to make sure its got a good earth. That's what my issue was. Also when you fit the 4runner the numbers are different. http://www.clubna-t.com/forums/showthread.php?t=4921

 

try that it might work. pretty sure the timing should be 10deg BTDC

 

I will have a look at the ignitor earth tomorrow, i pulled the fuse box out re tightend the power going into it and now i have power at the injectors but still no start, it sounds like its wanting to go but nothing, i also checked the tps and its fine, last thing i think could be causing this is the iacv which i dont have on my ffim.

When i was cranking the engine with 1 vacum port open there was no signs of life and as soon as i pluged the charcoal canister to the open vacum it sounded like it wanted to go but i couldnt get it to run. Would iacv be causing this?

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Cheers mate will have a look tonight at it

 

I reckon its the earth problem metioned earlier. It stops the injectors from opening. There is a couple of big ring tags soldered to some black cables that live under the inlet on a NA and these get left off. We spent a while on a car bought as a non runner a few years ago and eventually I realised that all the 5v rails for sensors like the map sensor etc were sitting high 10-12v high as measured between the sensor connector and true -ve at the battery. After hours and hours of fecking about we had it running in minutes once I had established the earth returns to the ECU were sitting high as the bolt had never been put back on the earth tag by the person who had taken the inlet off.

 

There was a photo floating around on here of this very car and the offending ground connections courtesy of DavidP.

 

If you have spark and you really want to satisfy yourself its a fuel problem then remove a bit of pipe work and hold a cloth moistened with a LITTLE petrol over the opening to the throttle body while someone cranks, it should burstinto life momentarily.

Edited by Shane
typo (see edit history)
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Or to eliminate the earth issue, turn on the ignition and pull the plug from the map sensor, none of the pins should read over 5 volts ish using the -ve battery connection as your meter ground. if you are seeing more than 5 from one of the pins here then its the cables under the inlet earth problem.

 

EDIT: Just looking back through my old posts and its all coming back to me now, what gave it away leading to the fix was that I had a voltage on what was meant to be the earth pin of the MAP sensor. So you should have 5V on one pin and a deffinite 0 volts on one of the other 2 if the earth is connected. HTH

Edited by Shane
amnesia (see edit history)
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Thanks mate thats a decent read will try your ideas tomorrow hopefully will get a minute in the garage, really appriciate it mate.

When i crank it now with all the vacum ports closed off there is a strong smell of unburned petrol so i think i am getting fuel.

Will keep you updated after i try them things tho

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Right... the car started! Shane you are a star i owe u a pint!, thanks everyone else for the input, it was the earth under the manifold that wasnt connected still have one more i need to find a place to secure it but for now i had it wired stright to the - battery terminal, will try and get some pictures posted tomorrow for anyones referance

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