Supra project

My car is currently in body shop for work , not the normal simple respray , but a more complex job , panel blending , some custom stuff , carbon work , air brush work , bare metal strip and sill repairs - it could be of interest in the project section for those wanting to see how bodywork progresses and then in the engine modification area post bodywork .

It may even put people off going down this route due to the cost and complexity involved :blink: It's never easy or fast or cheap!!!!

Lots is done already and on the home straight ..

Care to elaborate a little more with some photos?

Interested in this. Be good if you can find the time to put a thread together

Care to elaborate a little more with some photos?

The car started as a stock auto TT , from here it had a rebuilt engine , bottom end , cams and the usual engine upgrades internally , single turbo ( precision 67) boostlogic manifold , injectors , pumps , fmic and so forth .

Next was a boostlogic gearbox , rebuilt and included new billet sprags , Kevlar clutch pack and such .

U.K. brakes , coil overs added , then a custom leather complete interior, roof and all.

The mandatory 3 piece rims , deep dish added .

So now at low boost 1.1 bar mapped up to around 520 hp and similar torque .

At this point I decided to run much much higher boost , so I spent a few years doing research, many papers read and as much info I could get talking to people who have been in the very high boost area at a professional level.

During this time I collected the necessary parts and and data collection equipment-

Some things have been started already , such as the twin intercooler system both air and water(charge cooler),and a twin coolant stat system , other bits I will explain as I go .

Much is based on CHT data , so 6 thermocouples are monitoring this for thermal loading .

Now I’m doing the body work , over the years one sill developed holes and needed doing so I thought sod it , I will address the whole car , go wider rear , new front , skirts and so forth ....

So then the car was stripped to a million bits , wings off , glass off , and much bare metal ......

bodywork progressed - now decide to custom paint with air brush work and carbon fibre work ,coloured clear coat over carbon, soda blasting work , the bare metal dictated the use of epoxy primer work (the correct way of doing this )

So plenty of things that people may be interested in ...pictures will need putting in sequence

Interested in the boost levels you plan to run and what you would refer to as "high", also if you are changing turbo again, ive just replaced my turbo after 6 years running between 1 and 1.6 bar with mainly trackdays and found that the exhaust housing had distorted badly causing the exhaust wheel to erode and give massive lag, so heat can be a serious issue when upping the boost, i don`t plan to run a blanket on my new turbo and will manage the heat in other ways hopefully to run around 2bar on my next remap.

In your case it’s not so much the boost level as the duration on boost , road use you cannot maintain the boost as you get arrested quick smart , on track it’s repeated boosting for longer durations - heat builds in the turbine housing .

Boost level max is dictated by the speed of the turbo , and it’s design (map) - to go higher you need to alter the compressor efficiency - this means shaping the airflow into the compressor and injection of water - I would like to exceed 3 bar

In multistage compressors shaping is done by altering angle of attack on each stage , but our compressors only have one “stage” and it’s centrifugal

Previously:

Inside :

The car had corrosion in the passenger side sill, the rest of the underneath was in good order , I got a new sill from Toyota , but they only do a repair section for insert welding , so I got a complete sill from Keron , which extended beyond the area of corrosion , this was stripped , inspected and insert welded to the original structure.

Why only one side corroded - I think it’s probably down to being the kerb side of the car so gets more water and crud ,plus cars lean this side due the road camber and makes a water trap .

If supra buying - a good area to check as it’s not an easy repair.

At some point , I had to choose what colour I want to go with , so after some time I decided to go with an old school design - years ago it was popular to go two colours , I remember an old Rover p5b coupe that a neighbour had Purple over silver .

It is very very difficult to do two colours on a car and not all cars suit it ......

So a few hours google images for inspiration ... and I found a design I liked , and stole it

This design requires airbrush work to fade colours, and shading to get a 3 D effect and also putting into the headlight and across front , through rear lights and across.

Look forward to your progress on this Adam. Spotted my old carbon arches on your car.

Yep , they have been fitted and blended along with the rear /sills and arch gaps sorted , I used some aerospace products for this , the downside is ,it cannot now be put back to stock - carbon work in progress

Here for the pics, looking forward to seeing progress

Who did the upholstery on the car?

The door cards look to be nicely done.

Got any more interior shots?

I will pop some pics up as I go of the more interesting or unusual things , most things have been done before , so you have to think outside the box to "custom " build projects

Loving that interior Adam. Nice man

The interior came from a show car , it's a bit in your face as it is leather everywhere, must have cost a small fortune originally - but it is well made . Contrast stitching is a red/purple

I'm not 100% that the cream colour goes with the OEM black plastics , originally the black plastics were done in cream , and it was way too pimp - I'm experimenting with carbon , specifically adding dye to the top coat epoxy layers and tinting it - so it's black carbon but with a purple sheen in light - I've got rolls and rolls of carbon , some if different colours - so trying different combos

It's a nice effect with dyed topcoats but takes forever to do

Car in epoxy coat - this coat is a bit like spraying a “glue” coat , it is also non porous - with bare metal it is needed to rust proof , and should go on as fast as possible , normal filler/primer or high build primers are porous , so corrosion can build up under your top coats - Fail

This is what you get new replacement panels finished in or factory puts on prior to primers .

The whole car was done and then into primer and guide coats

Car in epoxy coat - this coat is a bit like spraying a “glue” coat , it is also non porous - with bare metal it is needed to rust proof , and should go on as fast as possible , normal filler/primer or high build primers are porous , so corrosion can build up under your top coats - Fail

This is what you get new replacement panels finished in or factory puts on prior to primers .

The whole car was done and then into primer and guide coats

I think youll still end up with rust being a problem. Especially where your sill had filler over bare metal. Should be filler over epoxy for a air tight seal

Front aligned and test fitted