Best settings for HKS EVC on JSpec

Hi All

I now have everything required for BPU and at the same time the car is being fully serviced and having Valve seals done as its a tad smokey and these will lose me a little power and reliability too. Ok so when it come back one of the toys I bought under great recommendation from the good people on here was the very latest HKS EVC Boost Controller. I have read conflicting reports that under BPU you dont get the best first turbo performance but with this you can change the settings to make this happen and also be a smooth shift to second turbo and all the way up, however others say its UK cars that have this problem and with normal settings actually the JSpec is smoother and better off the line and into the second turbo.

So my question is this, do i need standard settings on a JSpec on the HKS to make it as good as can be or some jiggery pokery in the installation and if I only need settigns whats the best for all over power whilst being as smooth as it can be from first to second?

And also I have read on here there is a trick on raising first turbo pressure but when checking it only seems to benefit UK cars as this is the JSpec's 'party piece' it seems, is this true? I dont want to do any unrecommended install of the BCC unless there is some reason to do so as its a dear bit of kit in a dear bit of kit if you know what I mean so I am assuming plugging it in like it says on the tin is the best for a JSpec and its all about settings.

Subscribed! I have the Greedy controller so would be interested to see the responses as typically there doesn't seem to be much information around on what's the best setting etc...

And also I have read on here there is a trick on raising first turbo pressure but when checking it only seems to benefit UK cars as this is the JSpec's 'party piece' it seems, is this true?

First turbo mod is referenced here and in my opinion makes a big difference to a bpu car (mines a J spec). If you can get your boost controller to do what the pipes and valve do in the link below and raise the first turbo boost then I would do it, I unfortunately don't know how as I don't have a working boost controller and as you know am happy living without one.

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?4620-All-top-end-on-a-tuned-uk-spec/page5

This may help you?

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?338583-EVC-6-IR-2-4-Installation&highlight=controller

Hi again Scooter! Yes I read that thread but it all sounded a bit like boost blocks to me albeit carefully monitored but blocks nonetheless. My car had a full kit of those on it when I bought it, and was mentally fast, this is before any mods have gone on- but the boost gauge was reading (as much as I could see for the vibration as it had many other problems at the time) near 1.5. Obviously this was stupid for a jspec and I quickly had it removed and wanted to spend money restoring it and then professionally tuning it with the BCC. People on here are saying with the HKS you can indeed change first turbo as well as second which is why I paid near twice as much as I could have done for it instead of a greddy or whatever and it went into the garage this morning to have all the BPU parts put on and valve seals etc so I dont expect to see it for a couple of weeks but when I get it back it will have the BCC installed and I wont have a clue what numbers to dial in! Do you or anyone have any info on that or is it just a whole lot of trial and error? Also if you have the JSpec and old school BPU are you not suffering from the crash between first and second turbo on a big pull? I'm hearing various people saying JSpecs do and dont suffer from this on BPU with no BCC?

I'd have thought whoever was fitting it would have a bit of a clue on at least setting it up for the minimum, ie to not boost itself to destruction on the first pull?

Re the old school bpu then it wasn't really a crash but the normal restrictor ring bpu gives a bit 'hit' on the transition because it can go from 0-7-0.8 bar on one turbo to 1.2-1.3 on both.

The first turbo mod, nicely increases the first turbo boost (let's face it that's where we are most of the time on the road) so increases oomph there and so the boost transition is more 0.85 bar to 1.15 for me now, with no real dip/crash, even that's too much in the cold or damp really, it's hard to use close to full throttle without some traction loss, but it's not so bad at the start of the second turbo as before.

The main reason I like it is the shove in the low revs, a normal bpu car below 3500 rpm is not much if any different to a stock car in my experience.

It's a little like the auto's vs manuals on the drag strip the 1st to 2nd change is smoothed out in the auto's the manuals it's far more likely you'll break traction.

Yes I will ask the guy who is fitting it on set up he is apparently asking an auto electrician tuning guy to help with it and I've already said it cant go above 1.2 safely as this is the accepted figure for JSpec it seems. If it is 'off' I assume it will revert to standard 1 bar BPU on the restrictor and only increase when the BCC is active? I considered the traction aspect and have 275s already on the back and Changed the suspension all round for Teins which will later on in the year be uprated to go 'Active' which will hunker down the shocks through the GPS when the accell gets serious and increase grip even more. All this stuff has cost me a fortune but I am determined to get this car as good as it possibly can be running through the autobox and then go through the interior and upgrade that and finally a respray, then I can start spending some money on silly things like food.....

Yes 'off' should definitely be safe I'd also recommend at least logging the boost at that setting as you don't want it to be at something like 0.8 before upping with the controller. I'm sure it'll be fine, and someone with help with the fine tuning. I recall reading there are settings one upwards so logic says if your off setting is say 1bar then set it to 1 and see what happens, does it have an audible alarm you can set, if so even better, you can set this at 1.1bar and then up it gradually?

I think what I'm trying to get over is there isn't really a 1 bar restrictor ring as such, it'll be ball park but it dependant on other factors, cat back exhaust perhaps even decat pipe diameter etc etc etc so you'll need to measure/record and not presume what your base/'off' setting boost is.

I have an independent boost gauge which is extremely accurate already plumbed in so I should be able to see exactly whats going on, I'm using the standard WB Restrictor so when I get the correct settings for this I will let you guys know. Where are you guys mounting these by the way in the dash, there seems to be so little room left as standard, and the clock has already been replaced by an AFR gauge on mine, I dont want it on a little mount on the top of the dash either as it will just get plundered. I've seen one dash with it mounted above the stereo but I dont think that looks the best either

If you want the boost controller set-up the best way it can be you should read through the 2nd link Scooter posted up (my thread) and send the guy who is installing the boost controller those HKS diagrams I posted.

Those are specifically designed for the Supra, and work a treat.

There is a lot of different things you can set up on the EVC, you need to take your time with it but it is quite simple to use when you start getting into it.

Cheers Rob, just to clarify, for my 93 JSpec is it the diagram with the writing on or the one without? Also I take it this BCC allows you to control both first and second turbo without any kind of independent jiggery pokery?

You will use the 1st diagram as that is for the newer 3 port valve, but I posted up the one with the writing aswell to translate the Japanese wiring so gives you more of an idea on what’s what.

You don’t control the turbos separately, plumbing in the EVC as shown in the 1st diagram this allows turbo no.1 to boost around just under 1bar which then makes the transition between turbo no.1 and no.2 a lot smoother. Honestly when you get the car back you will see it’s simple to set up, just make sure the plumbing is done correctly.

So it affects overall boost but you plug it into the first turbo and then when this reaches certain boost the second kicks in and the BPU allows the second to run at higher power too, yes? Sorry I actually thought it would plug into both and then be mapped to provide a certain level of boost to both, it just seemed logical. I will print that out and pass it on to the mechanic and go from there. So if he was to follow the manual I guess it just wouldnt fit? That seems a bit short sighted of HKS! But thanks so much to you and Scooter for this I will get it plumbed in and see whats what when it comes back and then stick the Active suspension on and that will be about the limit you can get out of BPU I think for actual useful power. Then its all down to the cosmetics of bodywork and interior which will be nice too.

Scooter, does the 1st turbo mod work with an ebc or is this instead of running one? I thought the job of the ebc was to bring boost on quicker and set it at a value you want.

Scooter, does the 1st turbo mod work with an ebc or is this instead of running one? I thought the job of the ebc was to bring boost on quicker and set it at a value you want.

 

/QUOTE]

 

Instead, I think it might over complicate things as well as a boost controller, although if you have a more simple controller that can't alter the 1st turbo boost then I think you could try it?

 

My shorten story is I bought a car with a boost controller, knew it wasn't boosting quite right, went back to basics ie unplumbed it (so it was just a boost gauge) and fitted a restrictor ring. It boosted to 1.15 ish after a couple of restrictor ring open ups but then I was disappointed with the low down grunt so gave this old and forgotten mod a try and love it.

 

Afaik all a boost controller would do for me now is allow me to have a 1.2 or 1.3 etc setting which I personally don't feel I need.

So it affects overall boost but you plug it into the first turbo and then when this reaches certain boost the second kicks in and the BPU allows the second to run at higher power too, yes? Sorry I actually thought it would plug into both and then be mapped to provide a certain level of boost to both, it just seemed logical. I will print that out and pass it on to the mechanic and go from there. So if he was to follow the manual I guess it just wouldnt fit? That seems a bit short sighted of HKS! But thanks so much to you and Scooter for this I will get it plumbed in and see whats what when it comes back and then stick the Active suspension on and that will be about the limit you can get out of BPU I think for actual useful power. Then its all down to the cosmetics of bodywork and interior which will be nice too.

I'm thinking of putting mine back to how Rob's plumbed it, and many thanks to him for spending the time sorting it out for us all to copy

Fulcrum the reason why the HKS install instruction are generic, is exactly because of that, it's a generic BC that can be fitted to any turbo car. If you follow the guide Rob has done, then that's the best option I feel. Then you will need to set up the BC afterwards. Don't rely on a boost gauge for an accurate reading, as a lot over read, my DEFI does by 0.1 of a bar.

I see, I am a bit of a noob to tuning and am paying people who are infinitely more capable than me to do such things but I must admit my interest is piqued by it all. I'm sure like most BPU guys once I get it to be the animal that is I will just stick with it but its nice to know how it all goes step by step. I will probs post some pics etc when it comes back so anyone considering it can see the differences physically and in performance as I have them from an app at stock on mine for comparison. Still not sure why only connecting the first turbo would be the way forward but I will just instruct the mechanic to connect it like Rob and then my understanding is when I adjust it for say 1.15 and so on it will just do it as a whole working with the TT of the car naturally.

I see, I am a bit of a noob to tuning and am paying people who are infinitely more capable than me to do such things but I must admit my interest is piqued by it all. I'm sure like most BPU guys once I get it to be the animal that is I will just stick with it but its nice to know how it all goes step by step. I will probs post some pics etc when it comes back so anyone considering it can see the differences physically and in performance as I have them from an app at stock on mine for comparison. Still not sure why only connecting the first turbo would be the way forward but I will just instruct the mechanic to connect it like Rob and then my understanding is when I adjust it for say 1.15 and so on it will just do it as a whole working with the TT of the car naturally.

Well it's all a bit hit and miss to be honest. I have a couple of friends that strongly advise against doing it, but all I know is how well my car felt boosting previously, so I'm willing to try it again.

Also, can I ask why you've chosen to go Tein suspension? As they really aren't that good, well the old ones aren't, and I can't imagine as a company they've changed that massively with a new range :/ Do you have a link to them?

Now suspension was where I went against the advice of many a forum. There's a good few better shocks than Tein out there for a Supe I totally agree and have used several myself, but then you hit the minefield of set up for purpose which is always a compromise. Now where Tein is (I think) unique is it can be upgraded to not only be active but automatic active with a special kit. This means when I buy and install this my car will be adjust in fractions of a second to all speeds all Gs and (if I want) can be set to anything from soft and 'GT' down to rock hard track all from the dashboard with one button. Combine this to fight Supes lack of traction and it is supposed to be PHENOMENAL mate. There's various demo vids of it online adjusting almost faster than the eye can see and its so good its apparently banned in amateur and pro race meets now. Might be a gimmick but I really dont think so. And of course, it only fits Tein shocks so that was the first step.

All In its pricey with shocks it compares with the big boys of the shock world price wise, but lets face it we all get a set of shocks, fit them somewhere in the middle of hard and soft and live with it or pay a tuner to set them up to the best possible way they can be, with these its like a tuner running alongside you and constantly altering them for ever speed of bend and condition apparently. I've made myself pretty brassic paying for all my BPU stuff including the BCC at the mo so it'll be a few months before I buy the motors etc for them but when I do I will post about it on here as I havent found anyone with a Supe sporting these yet loads of other (lesser) sports cars though that are raving about them. At the end of the day if I fit them and they're naff at least everyone here can once again learn from my special brand of stupidity!

Now suspension was where I went against the advice of many a forum. There's a good few better shocks than Tein out there for a Supe I totally agree and have used several myself, but then you hit the minefield of set up for purpose which is always a compromise. Now where Tein is (I think) unique is it can be upgraded to not only be active but automatic active with a special kit. This means when I buy and install this my car will be adjust in fractions of a second to all speeds all Gs and (if I want) can be set to anything from soft and 'GT' down to rock hard track all from the dashboard with one button. Combine this to fight Supes lack of traction and it is supposed to be PHENOMENAL mate. There's various demo vids of it online adjusting almost faster than the eye can see and its so good its apparently banned in amateur and pro race meets now. Might be a gimmick but I really dont think so. And of course, it only fits Tein shocks so that was the first step.

 

All In its pricey with shocks it compares with the big boys of the shock world price wise, but lets face it we all get a set of shocks, fit them somewhere in the middle of hard and soft and live with it or pay a tuner to set them up to the best possible way they can be, with these its like a tuner running alongside you and constantly altering them for ever speed of bend and condition apparently. I've made myself pretty brassic paying for all my BPU stuff including the BCC at the mo so it'll be a few months before I buy the motors etc for them but when I do I will post about it on here as I havent found anyone with a Supe sporting these yet loads of other (lesser) sports cars though that are raving about them. At the end of the day if I fit them and they're naff at least everyone here can once again learn from my special brand of stupidity!

Very interesting! Had a look into it last night, and it certainly does look good mate, so I can see why you want to try it! Even I for a split second was tempted lol If only the system would fit better shocks, as I just can't persuade myself to fit a set of Teins, as the internal valving is not good/shit, and life span isn't great either, but, that system is certainly a good persuader.

I have the Tein Mono Sport coilovers and they are fabulous, much better than the super streets I had. I also have the EDFC so can adjust the damping from the comfort of my seat. I have looked at the active setup and thought what a great idea! I will probably go down that route at some point. Although my EDFC works well so I will see how you get on.... Lol. The Teins had some issues a few year's back with build quality, mainly around the shocks rusting and some valve failures. My front super streets failed, still got them and still meaning to send them back and get them repaired. The reason I stuck with them was because I chatted to a few people in the club who had the Mono Sport / Mono Flex and they loved them. People like Jamie P had them and was pleased with them and I know the way he drives so thought if it was good enough for him I would give them another go. I have been pleased with mine. I good upgrade is to replace the stock ARB's for Whifbitz one's. These are actually good quality and value. Stops a lot of body roll when going hard into corners.

Which Teins did you get?

Yes In my distant (echo echo) youth I got through a ton of cars - in fact I tried to count how many cars I've actually owned and stopped at 45 through shock (and I got a bit sleepy) - and one of the things I always used to naively do was bang racing springs on them, had some awful experiences with preludes and MR2s on sh1t springs especially - I know they get a bad rap but I've never had any problems with Teins. They're defo not the best out there but the difference between them and the top enders is quite small in my experience and they're better than Toyboater originals too as well as being half the price. Plus they now have a guarantee on them so if any go they will replace any individual unit free you need which is reassuring. When I saw this amazing active kit and then the full auto active I just thought it was made for the Supra with its occasionally hilarious traction and to be able to turn it off or adjust it in car is well worth investing in when I have sorted out the power I want. I will defo put a thread on here when I get it sorted so if anyone else wants to know the difference in handling they can ask anything without investing their magic beans first.

For me I didnt want to set it up to be a track car because I live in lincolnshire and the roads look like they've been strafed by a Messerschmitt but I also didnt want it set up like a big ol' Caddy flopping about either so it seemed the right way to go. I'll kep you posted!