Dave Carroll Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Hi Guys As above really. My car misfired went pop now wont fire. Ive tested the crank angle sensor after ruling out fuelling and its out of spec (around 1280ohm cold reading iirc). Before investing 155quid in a brand new one, hoping someone might have a used one somewhere that might be good. So what do you guys have? Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Is it showing a code for the sensor? I have one somewhere but not home for 3 weeks - worth removing the old one and checking the star plate in the hole (they can and do come loose) need a mirror /torch and small screwdriver and a bendy neck or feed a small boy in Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Carroll Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 Car has a syvecs, i did check and there is seemingly no pulse coming from the sensor. I know its common for the teeth on the crank sprocket to come loose so i felt through the hole after removing the sensor and it seems solid enough (bit difficult to tell of course!) Ideally i could do with trying one sooner rather than later but if nothing else comes up I dont have a problem waiting a few weeks! As for checking the crank sprocket should it be fairly obvious if the crimp has failed or do i need to investigate more closely? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 There is only one connector a 2 pin near the alternator an pretty easy to see if any problem there - due to the very low voltage pulses generated the resistance is critical and the connection , trouble is the insulation resistance of the sensor is also critical and hard to check,so a new sensor is hard to avoid -thats how i got my spare -lol I think my new one was around 70 quid -ICP if i remember correctly no pulse at all is unusual and points to a connection or wire issue - way better than a random pulse ..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Carroll Posted February 16, 2018 Author Share Posted February 16, 2018 If the resistance of the shielding is a critical part of this sensor then that may explain my issue... the shielding on my sensor is completely ripped open in one area,looks like it has caught the rad fan at some point in the past. Coupled with it getting soaked in coolant at one point recently may well explain the issue. If you found a sensor for £70 I will take a look there as first port of call! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted February 16, 2018 Share Posted February 16, 2018 Yes the shielding is critical -the signal is so small that any stray voltage is huge in comparison and sends your ecu a wobbly -you can repair shieding but it needs special splices and is fiddly Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave Carroll Posted February 17, 2018 Author Share Posted February 17, 2018 I think a new sensor is a better choice. The sensor itself is out of spec anyway so I will order a new one and see how I get going. Will keep the old and repair as a spare for the track abuse the car will see again this year [emoji6] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jagman Posted February 17, 2018 Share Posted February 17, 2018 Given the original problem it's probably worth putting heat shrink sleeving on the new sensor wires , it's always handy to have spare sleeving kicking around the garage too . You can also use a blob of silicon to hold looms in place - a poor mans cable clamp ,but it does work as long as its oil free and allowed to harden Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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