Strange noise when moving

So next problem to arise from the car is this ......imagine your sat on a plane and is about to take off , the plane goes full throttle and you get that loud rushing engine noise which sounds awesome. Now imagine that noise coming from your supra.

So conditions for the noise.

Whenever moving ....the fast you go the louder it is this

I've tried braking, riding the break and handbrake to sort of clean then and no different, it only quietens because of the reduce of speed

I've turned engine off when moving and noise still persists so rules engine out

I've checked belts and engine bay , everything seems stable and tight,

Under car seem a fine and together nothing obvious

So lost for ends , a bit of a search reveals a few possible problems

Wheel bearing ....not the same sound

Propshaft... possible as it varies in speed as does sound

Brakes ... could be more than the tests I've done

Any ideas off people ?

leaking boost pipe? is it a turbo car? you would be very down on power if a boost pipe was leaking but it would produce the noise you're describing.

However it would be more related to rev's of the engine rather than speed of the car.

diff ? jack the back off the ground and run it ,to rule it out if anything have you checked your diff oil?

Check your viscous fan. Can you reach in and spin it with your hand, it its stiff when the engines cold then the viscous bit is probably gone.

Just seen you turned the engine off while moving!?

Is all your intake pipework tight/secure

leaking boost pipe? is it a turbo car? you would be very down on power if a boost pipe was leaking but it would produce the noise you're describing.

 

However it would be more related to rev's of the engine rather than speed of the car.

Yss its a turbo mate , All pipes seem secure and power is as normal, so doesn't seem to be that.

diff ? jack the back off the ground and run it ,to rule it out if anything have you checked your diff oil?

Haven't checked that bit will definitely do that when home,

Check your viscous fan. Can you reach in and spin it with your hand, it its stiff when the engines cold then the viscous bit is probably gone.

 

 

Just seen you turned the engine off while moving!?

 

Is all your intake pipework tight/secure

Will try that when home thanks , a large empty car park was used for turning engine off , rolled from about 20mph to a halt with engine off to make sure it wasn't engine and the noise still persists so definitely nothing internal to the engine and something that still moves or turns when moving .

Thanks for the ideas guys , Will write them down and try them when am home away with work currently.

I did go round the engine bay and move , pull , test everything to see if anything as loose and everything seemed secure and working as normal. So will try the ideas when home and hope it's nothing major

Is it a uk spec ?

Gearbox, diff, prop/ drive shafts? Making that woooosh sound?

Do burnouts in the car?

Is it a uk spec ?

Nope it's jspec

Gearbox, diff, prop/ drive shafts? Making that woooosh sound?

 

Do burnouts in the car?

Nope not a chance at 180 a tyre , it's also auto so wouldn't know how to haha

Nope it's jspec

 

 

 

Nope not a chance at 180 a tyre , it's also auto so wouldn't know how to haha

I was going to say egr recirc pipe if it was a UK spec.

Little update now am back home and first job was to check the car. So I jacked the car up on one side and span the wheel by hand and BINGO... the noise. So let that side down, jacked up the other side and again the noise when spinning the wheel. Apparently it had new Redstuff pads on within the last 3 months on the front so i can only assume (and also by google) that the discs are worn and need replacing. I should have gotten some pictures for the thread but how do i go about finding what size disks i need to buy?. I've checked the folder of paperwork the car came with and nothing on there so can assume it was bought from a private seller and the only pointer i have is the front look like 6 pot wilwood calipers. No other details wrote on them or paperwork.

If the wheels spun freely then it may just be debris or the pads wearing to suite the discs. Do the discs have a noticeable lip? I'd measure their thickness, then when you find out what disc you have you can check the thickness to the minimum (this is sometimes stamped on the disc somewhere btw)

Are the disk's one piece or a central bell and bolted on disc? If one piece ones if you measure the diameter that will give you a starting point.

I dont think its debris as i've tried to brake it out , span it both ways etc , it supposedly had new pads which they look chunky still ( but i have no idea if they are) but the discs do look past there best if am honest, both sides are doing the exact same noise pretty much which also might suggest pads are gone as probably fitted same time.

Quick pics i grabbed now trying to slot the phone through the rim haha, when i had them off there was no details stamped on them that i saw. Possibly worn off ?

http://imgur.com/a/1u3EO

Is it the angle of that picture or is the top of the calliper catching on the disc?

Also what disc's have holes like that in, just below the swept surface? (and what are those bolt heads you can see)

Is it the angle of that picture or is the top of the calliper catching on the disc?

Think it was just the angle

Also what disc's have holes like that in, just below the swept surface? (and what are those bolt heads you can see)

The bolts you see through are the ones holding the caliper to the car, With the wheel off today was still unable to remove the caliper as its well and truly stuck the bolt holding it. Rotor seems to be a 2 piece system and was about 1.4inch wide and 13inch top-bottom. so looking for some replacements or short notice garage to go to see what they think.

Couple more pictures for you all..

http://imgur.com/EXP3i9G

http://imgur.com/N4svqo9

http://imgur.com/Itg38Nu

http://imgur.com/LbWiDfS

Some videos,

https://www.dropbox.com/s/oecov9op6sa56lc/2017-08-13%2018.58.05.mp4?dl=0

https://www.dropbox.com/s/lrgq2ckv7bpwpnu/2017-08-13%2018.48.27.mp4?dl=0

I'd be inclined to take the pads out and make sure all the pistons move freely in both calipers, the ones in the photos

are 4 pots not 6

Also go on the Wilwood site as i'd guess they came from there possibly, their page gives dimensions/diagrams

for all the discs they sell

The pads in your photos have plenty of material on them so it shouldn't be down them causing the noise

If you have no paperwork can you contact the previous owner ? if not then its a case of take the discs

off and measure them then match them up.

Diameter, width, mounting hole diameter and pcd and number of holes

I had a search on the Wilwood site http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorList1.aspx

These look pretty close visually including handed veins and grooves in the disc

face also match as does the casting shape around the mounting holes

13.06 diameter

1.38 width

Rotor bolt circle 8 x 7.00, yours has 8 holes so just if the diameter is right

I'm not sure but the numbers could also be on the rotor so i'd be getting some brake cleaner

on yours and giving the face just outside of the mounting holes a good clean and you might

find the part numbers that are handed left and right

3584 and 3585

I had a search on the Wilwood site http://www.wilwood.com/Rotors/RotorList1.aspx

 

These look pretty close visually including handed veins and grooves in the disc

face also match as does the casting shape around the mounting holes

 

13.06 diameter

 

1.38 width

 

Rotor bolt circle 8 x 7.00, yours has 8 holes so just if the diameter is right

 

I'm not sure but the numbers could also be on the rotor so i'd be getting some brake cleaner

on yours and giving the face just outside of the mounting holes a good clean and you might

find the part numbers that are handed left and right

 

3584 and 3585

Cheers for that dnk, I'd love to get the rotor and caliper off but the bolt that holds the caliper is well and truly rusted or stuck tight, even with shock spray and others it's stuck so had to do what I can with them on.

I was able to get the width and diameter ,

As mentioned there is 8 mounting holes but not sure how to measure if it's 8x7 or the 8 x 7.6 , but the only option with the measured dimensions is 8x7 ,

I've cleaned the rotor with brake cleaner 3 times and nothing comes up or is visible , looks like I'll have to get it up in a shop for them to loosen the caliper bolts,

Not enjoying that each rotor is £206...havent got the money for this lately dam it haha

How does one test if all the pistons are free to move etc ?

Measuring the 7.00 is easy mate but you really need the disc off to be accurate, are the caliper bolts as bad on the other side ?

The hub bolt PCD is 114.3 mm or 4.5" red arrow

The disc bolt PCD is 177.8 mm or 7.0" yellow arrow

Use a flat blade screwdriver or prybar and carefully ease the pistons back into the caliper body, carefully

Easy to do with the pads removed.

3.30 in the video shows how you can ease the pistons back with the pads in, just be careful what you lever against

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brUoqhiOGyc

if all four move freely then they should be fine, but you can take one pad out and use a thicker tool to

push each piston individually back into the caliper body and it should be obvious if one piston is stiffer

than another. do one pair of pistons at a time on each caliper being careful not slip and damage the

outer seals, you could put a flat thin piece of wood or metal across the piston face to make it easier

After you refit everything PUMP THE BRAKES UP BEFORE YOU DRIVE OFF

3.30 in the video shows how you can ease the pistons back with the pads in, just be careful what you lever against

 

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=brUoqhiOGyc

 

if all four move freely then they should be fine, but you can take one pad out and use a thicker tool to

push each piston individually back into the caliper body and it should be obvious if one piston is stiffer

than another. do one pair of pistons at a time on each caliper being careful not slip and damage the

outer seals, you could put a flat thin piece of wood or metal across the piston face to make it easier

 

 

 

 

After you refit everything PUMP THE BRAKES UP BEFORE YOU DRIVE OFF

Right wheels off other side and caliper nuts are weld tight on this side too , got the pads out and rotated the disc and the noise is still there and it's spinning freely , which is now making me think it could be the wheel bearing ?

Take the front pads out and THEN spin the wheels, if the noise is still there it's almost certainly hub bearings or something fouling the discs them selves. Wheel spacers give hub bearing a terrible time, does it use them? Don't forget the rear brakes and hub bearings, same thing, try with pads in and pads out, drag should be VERY similar.

Take the front pads out and THEN spin the wheels, if the noise is still there it's almost certainly hub bearings or something fouling the discs them selves. Wheel spacers give hub bearing a terrible time, does it use them? Don't forget the rear brakes and hub bearings, same thing, try with pads in and pads out, drag should be VERY similar.

Pads are out an noise persists , no wheel spacers on, And disc appears to rotate freely through the caliper.

https://www.dropbox.com/s/j0d9hegdm8453nr/2017-08-14%2012.40.56.mp4?dl=0

The video part isn't working, are you spinning it by hand? that's all you need to do.

The video part isn't working, are you spinning it by hand? that's all you need to do.

Its working for me just then, yep by hand and still noise