Warning Engine ecu failure

Found out after a long while that my engine ecu was leaking.All kind of things can happen,and there are no error codes from ecu itself.Some Symptoms is rough cold start,sudden stall now and then and if you have automatic transmision you could suddently experience hard engagement when put into drive or revers,specially when cold.These engine control modules are old now and those brown capacitors inside will soner or later start leaking and destroy the ecu making it unrepairable.I tried to buy a new unit for automatic supra but was told that dont sell them anymore. Read article for different symptoms https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

Interesting page, thanks for sharing

Had a similar issue on a friends supra. Auto NA with all sorts of idling/running and changing gears. Discovered there was an issue with ECU when I went to put the ecu in diagnostic mode and the engine warning light flashed randomly before dying completely.

Yep I had this

Think mine might be playing up my auto box won't shift into OD and the revs change but only slightly between 700-1000 ,as mines a 93 auto na do you think that the section on 93-94 LS400 would be the same ?

Found out after a long while that my engine ecu was leaking.All kind of things can happen,and there are no error codes from ecu itself.Some Symptoms is rough cold start,sudden stall now and then and if you have automatic transmision you could suddently experience hard engagement when put into drive or revers,specially when cold.These engine control modules are old now and those brown capacitors inside will soner or later start leaking and destroy the ecu making it unrepairable.I tried to buy a new unit for automatic supra but was told that dont sell them anymore. Read article for different symptoms https://www.clublexus.com/forums/ls-1st-and-2nd-gen-1990-2000/656360-all-my-crazy-lexus-issues-solved-ecu-leaking-capacitor.html

See my other post

Yes big chance,if ecu have never been refurbished.see if you can borrow another ecu.If not i would rebuild it anyway before it is to late!

does anybody offer this service with a guarantee and insurance? ?

When I had an issue with my 2000 Volvo (CEM) there was a guy in London who repaired it and had it on a test rig to power it up and test it's integrity etc. I know this is still going strong over 4 years later.

Now I suspect to some extent all ECU's are similar with capacitors etc but that a guy like this might need to have a few damaged ones (and a known good one?) to get into the specifics of the Supra ones.

The thing with the Volvo's is that there was obviously a sufficient issue/high enough number of cars sold that this guy had a whole business based around it and it wasn't model specific, the Supra has no real issues (these threads are the start of some for sure) and a very small production run so it's not a great business opportunity unless the repairs are straight forward for someone like the Volvo guy to expand into?

I sent the guy an email just to see if he has any contacts that deal with Toyota's can't hurt to try if anyone has a Volvo issue I can thoroughly recommend him.

http://volvodiagnostic.com/

Plenty of places seem to do ECU repair in the UK via a quick Google search.

Also this link if anyone seems really stuck, not sure if they still do it as they are US based but its Supra specific:

https://www.driftmotion.com/2JZ-ECU-Cap-Service-p/dm2861.htm

Can probably replace themy your self as long as your handy with soldiering iron and have the correct value capacitors. As for damage to track could fix them using wire links if there not massivEly defective.

Problem is the board is a multi layer, so if the electrolyte from the old caps has penetrated into a sub layer and done track damage resulting in a none conductive tack down there it's effectively scrap. Best to re cap BEFORE any start leaking, but interfering with a complex old board is fraught with possible issues. If it were *MY* ECU i would re cap it, but if I did someone else's, despite having a good deal of experience with surface mount boards and excellent de soldering and soldering gear, I wouldn't offer any sort of warranty and it would be on at "your risk" basis. At least the electrolytics appear to be wire leaded, which makes replacement less dangerous from the lifting of tiny tracks with the de soldering heat perspective.

Problem is the board is a multi layer, so if the electrolyte from the old caps has penetrated into a sub layer and done track damage resulting in a none conductive tack down there it's effectively scrap. Best to re cap BEFORE any start leaking, but interfering with a complex old board is fraught with possible issues. If it were *MY* ECU i would re cap it, but if I did someone else's, despite having a good deal of experience with surface mount boards and excellent de soldering and soldering gear, I wouldn't offer any sort of warranty and it would be on at "your risk" basis. At least the electrolytics appear to be wire leaded, which makes replacement less dangerous from the lifting of tiny tracks with the de soldering heat perspective.

What would you charge Chris just in case mine is fooked ,will remove it an have a look .

Is there a replacement for the OEM ECU like a standalone one ?

Just emailed these guys in case Chris don't do it ,[email protected]

I'd have to ask you trust me to do one and see how long it took, but I can't see it going over 2 hours plus the caps, which won't be much. I have facilities for testing the ESR and value of the old caps to see if they are actually bad, but they need removing first to test them, so you might as well fit new whatever their condition.

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Is there a replacement for the OEM ECU like a standalone one ?

 

Just emailed these guys in case Chris don't do it ,[email protected]

Apexi did a standalone, but only for the *manual* TT models, Jap spec only. Not sure if it's still available.

I'd have to ask you trust me to do one and see how long it took, but I can't see it going over 2 hours plus the caps, which won't be much. I have facilities for testing the ESR and value of the old caps to see if they are actually bad, but they need removing first to test them, so you might as well fit new whatever their condition.

 

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Apexi did a standalone, but only for the *manual* TT models, Jap spec only. Not sure if it's still available.

pulled mine today and found this just one capacitor leaking can get a 2nd hand one for £110 .so could you give a ball park figure ?

pulled mine today and found this just one capacitor leaking can get a 2nd hand one for £110 .so could you give a ball park figure ?

Problem with a second hand unit is that it will still have old caps and you are potentially facing the same problem. If Chris can do it, you would be best off getting your board cleaned and replacing all caps rather than just the one that has leaked.

This is becoming quite a common problem on older ECUs. I did the ecu on my hilux surf, and i have also done one on a 1JZ ECU, and it seems inevitable that it will become more common on 2JZ ECUs as they get older. I have also seen videos on youtube of people replacing electrolytic capaciotors on old computers and hifis for the same reason. The problem is the parts are pennies to buy and it doesn't take long to do, so the actual cost to repair would only be a few pounds, but as Chris said, the cost of offering any sort of warranty would be prohibitive. might be worth asking a mate who knows how to solder to swap all the capacitors on the board.

This is becoming quite a common problem on older ECUs. I did the ecu on my hilux surf, and i have also done one on a 1JZ ECU, and it seems inevitable that it will become more common on 2JZ ECUs as they get older. I have also seen videos on youtube of people replacing electrolytic capaciotors on old computers and hifis for the same reason. The problem is the parts are pennies to buy and it doesn't take long to do, so the actual cost to repair would only be a few pounds, but as Chris said, the cost of offering any sort of warranty would be prohibitive. might be worth asking a mate who knows how to solder to swap all the capacitors on the board.

Yes I'm asking around .

The board needs cleaning, gently and carefully with 99 or 100% isopropyl alcohol (IPA) to see if the electrolyte has already burnt through the tiny tracks on the surface. that's a BAD leak and the electrolyte may well already be in inner layers of the board, doing damage. Once it gets into sub layers cleaning doesn't really get it out, it just carries on doing its damage Clean it up and look with a good light and magnifying glass to see if the tracks you can see are still intact. That looks like its been leaking for ages! I have a couple of good ECU's here, I'll have a look inside to see what the caps are like and perhaps have a play at swapping them out, but I am mad busy right now.

Had another supra in the workshop today with cold start mirefire issue. ECU had a cold solder, new ECU and she purred away again. Had a 1JZ the other week that wouldn't rev over 3k, blew a diode on the ECU

Most ECU failures I've seen have been right after that car has been sat outside for a long time and not been used.

Dave if it helps, I think I've got an NA manual ECU I can send you.

let me get this straight..........i was always worried my heater matrix would blow......now i have to worry about the ecu blowing up? and it cant be fixed nor replaced with an after market one?

let me get this straight..........i was always worried my heater matrix would blow......now i have to worry about the ecu blowing up? and it cant be fixed nor replaced with an after market one?

Not blowing up, the caps (due to age) may start to leak. These things aren't made to last forever, unfortunately. If you want the expense then you can go standalone.

Would a ecu from Aristo 2jzgte with partnumber 89661-30560 would fit.talked with a guy that said he used this in his jdm 2jzgte supra.so what could be the difference.dont know if this item is still in stock though.