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Best BPU


Fulcrum2000
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Hi All

 

I know its probably been done on another post before to say the least but I am going to take my JDM to BPU level and I was wondering, assuming the turbos stay sequential what is the best affordable BPU set up for a JDM TT as in what bits work best together to achieve the most safe HP possible say within a couple of grand or so? Lets hear what HP etc everyone hit and how they did it and it will help me no end as the options seem limitless but all seem to achieve the same performance increases to within a few HP

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http://www.garagewhifbitz.co.uk/toyota/supra/bpu-performance-packs/garage-whifbitz-850.html

 

You could do it cheaper i'd of thought by putting your own kit together especially if you can pick

up second hand parts

 

You dont need an fmic to go bpu, a decent condition smic will cope no problem

 

My car had full exhaust inc decats, fmic, thor fcd, blitz sbcid boost controller, sparkplugs, but it was a UK spec so no restrictor ring req

 

As you have a j spec tt you could just de cat with a 1 bar restrictor ring, plugs and an fcd and you should see 370 hp ish dependent on the

condition of your turbos, smic etc

 

If you want 400 + you'll need a boost controller as well

Edited by Dnk (see edit history)
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You can go BPU for under £1k if you take your time. I have a JDM TT and got:

 

Decat pipes, restrictor ring and fuel pump from Whifbitz £355 delivered

Catback on this forum for £100 delivered

Chris Wilson FCD £85ish iirc

GReddy boost controller £300 (on order atm)

 

That should be around the 400ish

 

Injectors max out around 440bhp then its big twins or single!.. and ecu, brakes, fmic, mapping etc.

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For me I'm looking at the following.

 

2 x Decat pipes from TBdevelopments

Blitz Nur spec R cat back already fitted

CW FCD

CW SMIC

Plugs - Undecided

Fuel pump - Undecided

Boost Controller - This is where you seem to be able to spend serious money. A second hand greddy profec b spec 2 seems the best compromise to me. £400+ for a single loop controller seems very strong money. I'd be more than happy with a boost controller that can be set up with a laptop and then hidden behind the dash that's a bit more sensibly priced rather than £400 for a fancy LED screen. Not sure if such a beast exists. I understand the need for tuning but once you've got a nice progressive 0-1.2 bar then for me any boost controller just spoils the look of the interior. I haven't seen any "on display" location for a boost controller that I like the look of.

 

I'm also thinking of installing boost, AFR and oil temperature gauges.

Stack analogue gauges and AEM analogue AFR, all black surround/black face/white numbers.

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Can't go wrong with Tim's decat pipes (1st has a flexi like OEM and 2nd is a 3.5") or CW's SMIC :thumbs: They are the only ones I could considering fitting for BPU.

 

Fuel pump do it once and do it right. Fit a Walbro 450LPH as it's quieter than most and will flow enough should you want to go single in future.

Edited by Frank Bullitt
Bloody Auto Correct! (see edit history)
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For me I'm looking at the following.

 

2 x Decat pipes from TBdevelopments

Blitz Nur spec R cat back already fitted

CW FCD

CW SMIC

Plugs - Undecided

Fuel pump - Undecided

Boost Controller - This is where you seem to be able to spend serious money. A second hand greddy profec b spec 2 seems the best compromise to me. £400+ for a single loop controller seems very strong money. I'd be more than happy with a boost controller that can be set up with a laptop and then hidden behind the dash that's a bit more sensibly priced rather than £400 for a fancy LED screen. Not sure if such a beast exists. I understand the need for tuning but once you've got a nice progressive 0-1.2 bar then for me any boost controller just spoils the look of the interior. I haven't seen any "on display" location for a boost controller that I like the look of.

 

I'm also thinking of installing boost, AFR and oil temperature gauges.

Stack analogue gauges and AEM analogue AFR, all black surround/black face/white numbers.

 

You're certainly going about it the right way, good choice of quality parts there :thumbs:

 

Gauges, everyone is different with what they wan't, I'm more of a less clutter type of guy. I just went for boost gauge, and a dual SPA digital gauge with oil temp and oil pressure. AFR gauge a lot of people like to have, and originally I was going to go with EGT and AFR, but decided against it in the end. With AFR generally you use it right at the beginning to check you are fueling ok, then after that it's pretty pointless I think.

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I work in oil and gas so I certainly recognise how useful the right instrumentation can be. However I'm like you with clutter. Looking for gauges that are as subtle as possible. Hoping they will fit in a triple pod as I don't want to replace the clock or any vents

 

 

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I work in oil and gas so I certainly recognise how useful the right instrumentation can be. However I'm like you with clutter. Looking for gauges that are as subtle as possible. Hoping they will fit in a triple pod as I don't want to replace the clock or any vents

 

/QUOTE]

 

I've got a PLX multi gauge that's been sitting in the loft for years lol That was my original plan to have AFR, EGT, Oil temp, and Oil pressure. https://www.plxdevices.com/Automotive-Gauges-and-Sensors-s/108.htm

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If I had to start from scratch I'd go for:

 

TBdevelopments decats 3"

CW SMIC

CW FCD

Newer design Walbro

HKS EVC 6

 

I wish I went with the CW SMIC and kept my active spoiler setup as there was totally no need for my 3 row 4" Blitz LM FMIC.

 

I changed from 2.5" to 3" decats, didn't really notice a difference if I'm honest but you might aswell go for the biggest.

 

This is where I noticed the biggest gain. I use to run the Blitz Dual SCB Spec-R with ID meter and changed to the HKS EVC 6-IR colour, plumbed it up following the specific HKS install drawings for the 2JZ-GTE. By far one of the best things I have done, the car flys off the mark and very easy to set up IMO.

 

I'm not sure on the Greedy if it's a 3 port solenoid and if you can set it up the same way but I'd definitely look into the HKS.

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If I had to start from scratch I'd go for:

 

TBdevelopments decats 3"

CW SMIC

CW FCD

Newer design Walbro

HKS EVC 6

 

I wish I went with the CW SMIC and kept my active spoiler setup as there was totally no need for my 3 row 4" Blitz LM FMIC.

 

I changed from 2.5" to 3" decats, didn't really notice a difference if I'm honest but you might aswell go for the biggest.

 

This is where I noticed the biggest gain. I use to run the Blitz Dual SCB Spec-R with ID meter and changed to the HKS EVC 6-IR colour, plumbed it up following the specific HKS install drawings for the 2JZ-GTE. By far one of the best things I have done, the car flys off the mark and very easy to set up IMO.

 

I'm not sure on the Greedy if it's a 3 port solenoid and if you can set it up the same way but I'd definitely look into the HKS.

 

Rob, could you post up a diagram or an explanation on how you plumbed in your ECV 6 please, been a lot of debate between us midlands lot on how it should be done, and I'd be very interested to see how you successfully did it :)

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Rob, could you post up a diagram or an explanation on how you plumbed in your ECV 6 please, been a lot of debate between us midlands lot on how it should be done, and I'd be very interested to see how you successfully did it :)

 

Yes no worries, I'll do an update when I was asking about it months ago instead of cluttering up the OP's thread mate.

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I'm not sure a controller (on a J spec) adds anything really, other than the option of having a higher risky/occasional boost setting does it?

 

All I'm saying is if you are happy at the 1.1-1.15bar range at WOT then a restrictor ring and a file is all you need, boost control wise!

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This is where I noticed the biggest gain. I use to run the Blitz Dual SCB Spec-R with ID meter and changed to the HKS EVC 6-IR colour, plumbed it up following the specific HKS install drawings for the 2JZ-GTE. By far one of the best things I have done, the car flys off the mark and very easy to set up IMO.

 

 

Does this setup mean you get over 0.7 bar on the first turbo?

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Does this setup mean you get over 0.7 bar on the first turbo?

 

Yes, when I had my boost gauge rigged up when setting the controller I was seeing around 1bar 1st turbo.

 

Its interesting you are finding the car better after changing from the Blitz. I had looked at adding the HKS EVC 6 to my own setup but the cost put me off. I didnt see the benefit over the likes of an innovate SCG-1 or similar

 

A night and day difference from the Blitz, well worth it IMO.

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Yes, when I had my boost gauge rigged up when setting the controller I was seeing around 1bar 1st turbo.

 

 

This is a definite benefit, I don't think all boost controllers effect the first turbo in the same way. I have modified the stock pipe work to give more 1st turbo boost (0.8-0.9) and it does make a massive difference, not just in the low down pick up but also it smooths the transition to the second turbo and 1.1-1.2Bar. Mine is not in any way 'on the fly' adjustable but it's a few quid for some 't' pieces and hose, possibly worth the OP considering if starting from scratch?

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Well it obviously puts more pressure on it and there was some talk/worry of the fueling map being able to cope but I think in general it's safe. I haven't pushed the pressure too much and am only doing 3-5K miles a year so can deal with some possible reduction in turbo life. All these things have some risk.

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Well both turbo's are under this stress at high rpm as they both are working, I spose it's just the first one is now under high boost for far longer and might wear prematurely.

 

I found an old thread and linked to it in a new one but can't find it again now, my search powers are normally strong!

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Why am I only hearing about this 1st turbo mod now?! It sounds like a really good mod. Any downsides?

 

It's been around for years, IIRC you change some vacuum hoses and fit a bleeder valve.

 

It was a long time ago when I come across the set-up so can't really remember, hopefully Scooter will be able to give you more information.

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It's a t piece with a bleed screw fitted to the pipework from the vsv near the rear of the turbo's.

 

I think what it does in very layman terms is divert some of the boost away from the thing that switches/bleeds boost to the second turbo, thus the first turbo continues more than normal and flows more boost to get to the same point. Still can't locate the thread!

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