Recommend me a clutch (6 speed)

So my clutch pedal is getting high and im now thinking of replacing the clutch when summer season is finished which should be in about 3 weeks time lol

My car is currently at BPU power however I do want to be in the 600 club at some stage so ideally go for a uprated one instead of a OEM clutch.

I have been looking at these so far (16093-2100 - Stage 2 Sprung Steelback Brass Plus Clutch - 675bhp/350wtq ) with a lighter flywheel

http://www.mkivsupra.net/vbb/showthread.php?325233-Competition-Clutches-Now-Available-To-Order&highlight=CLUTCH+KIT+OPTIONS

Has anyone had these fitted to the car, if so can you let me know what you think of them

I have also been looking at Whifbitz Spec clutches as well

I'm guessing its best to change the flywheel as well due to its age though the car has only done 67k, especially if im uprating the clutch ?

Last thing

Is there anything else ideally I would want to replace while the box is out ?

Thank you kindly

Clutches are rated on torque instead of horsepower so the one you've got above at 350wtq may be a bit low mate.

I upgraded my clutch at the 80k range of my mileage, flywheel was fine so I kept it. Only extra I did was have the transmission fluid changed.

The HKS LA seems to be a good clutch although I've heard a few people having trouble lately.

Clutches are rated on torque instead of horsepower so the one you've got above at 350wtq may be a bit low mate.

 

I upgraded my clutch at the 80k range of my mileage, flywheel was fine so I kept it. Only extra I did was have the transmission fluid changed.

 

The HKS LA seems to be a good clutch although I've heard a few people having trouble lately.

I see, bit hard until I start going the single route which wont be for a while so maybe i should go for the stock clutch for the time being until I know what power I will be running

I will have a look at the HKS though

cheers mate

Can't really comment on the clutch but if you can try and stick with the stock duel mass flywheel as it will drive with a nicer feel and can hold your power goals easily enough if in good condition. I have a chris Wilson updated clutch in mine but looking to have anymore power then the bpu I have. I would stay away from puk style clutches though as they are a night unless you want to drive flat out everywhere!

SRD fitted a spec stage 1 clutch to my car and still using the Oem dual mass flywheel, car is a pleasure to drive with no heavy clutch pedal or iffy bitting point and I'm at 618bhp with roughly 510 lb/ft and it handles the power well.

Avoid HKS LA Twin. Mine has fried itself after only 600 miles of bedding in driving for definite. Slipping on boost already even at lowest settings. Been horrible since the day it was installed.

I'll be looking at RPS Twin Carbon or the OS Giken Twin next for my power needs.

A spec clutch could be the way to go. I have one in my car very happy with it.

RPS fan here...

Expensive but worth it, hasn't missed a beat on mine after all the issues I had with Competition Clutch, which I recommend avoiding

Greg's experience with the LA twin is unusual. I know a few people who have it, (including myself) and have no issues. It's the quietest solid flywheel clutch you'll get, the pedal is light and it's nice and slippable.

Another top option if you don't mind a heavier pedal is an rps streetmax cover plate and a stock clutch disc. Held over 600ft/lbs on my car reliably. Also it uses the stock DMF which is a godsend as it eliminates the rattle from the gearbox when idling.

Perfect

Thanks for your comments guys, would be nice to keep the duel mass clutch but will inspect it when it's out.

Will be checking out all your recommendations

Did you guys do anything else while the box was out,replace any seals etc ?

Greg's experience with the LA twin is unusual. I know a few people who have it, (including myself) and have no issues. It's the quietest solid flywheel clutch you'll get, the pedal is light and it's nice and slippable.

The man has a fair point. I think mine is an isolated example but still it's never felt great since day 1 and now continues to malfunction. I'm convinced it's a manufacturing defect.

Might be worth replacing the gearbox seal too and assume you'll be using new release bearing, circlips etc when you change over mate? If not do it.

I'm going to stay well clear of competion clutches. I'm going to go hks or la twin plate.

I'm going to stay well clear of competion clutches. I'm going to go hks or la twin plate.

Wise choice with staying clear of competition clutches.

If you go twin plate I would highly recommend RPS, my triple is bloody awesome and its a soft pedal

Wise choice with staying clear of competition clutches.

 

If you go twin plate I would highly recommend RPS, my triple is bloody awesome and its a soft pedal

I have my old competition clutch on my desk to remind me everyday that I should have changed this. Live and learn.

Agreed with Paul, go RPS Carbon either Twin or triple and you won't regret it. Wish I bit the bullet on that given it'll take all the power you can throw at it and new strapless billet design is much better designed and more reliable.

Until you go 600 I'd stick to stock clutch/flywheel. I did 106,000 miles on the factory clutch (85k under my own boot) with 330bhp hub so when it finally needed replacing, I went factory clutch. Seeing the factory clutch is throw away cheap why wouldn't you until you need something a little bit more special? There is no point going for the harsher snap change, stiffer pedal and noisier flywheel until you have to.

Available now: Uprated MKIV TT clutches.

I use the stock, brand new driven plate, as it is correctly

balanced, doesn't judder and will hold all but mega torque

highly modded engines or cars used for drag racing.

I modify a stock brand new cover to give more clamping force.

The reason I tooled up to do these is some of the aftermarket

US clutches I have fitted SEEM to be built from used cover

assemblies with reground friction surfaces, and a stronger

spring. I have had hellish trouble getting these to fully

release, because due to this seemingly thinner cast iron

friction face, the geometry of the clutch goes to pot, and

being a pull type clutch (the hydraulics pull the bearing

away from the engine, rather than the more normal push type)

it is a lot harder to effect a cure.

For 455 pounds plus VAT , you get a brand new driven

plate, a brand new modded cover, and a brand new release

bearing. I would rather fit myself so any complaints are down

to me, I see a lot of clutches damaged by people without the right gear

(a ramp and transmission jack, plus correct circlip tools and fitment)

or clutches fitted to patently *uggered flywheels. I will do a supply

only if you feel competent to tackle the job or are using a bona fide garage to

fit the clutch

Toyota use a dual mass flywheel (the flywheel is in 2 parts, an inner and

outer assembly, damped in the middle) which is now showing signs

of wear causing a lot of rattle when idling or on very light

throttle openings. For God knows what reason they are charging

about £400 + VAT for a new one, they look more like they should be

over 500 to me, but don't say anything :-) The very similar LUK dual

mass flywheel on Maseratis is nearly £1000 + VAT.... So if the flywheels

old enough or abused enough to be scored it should be replaced.

Fitting by myself will cost £175 + VAT.

Reply privately if interested please. [email protected]

The man has a fair point. I think mine is an isolated example but still it's never felt great since day 1 and now continues to malfunction. I'm convinced it's a manufacturing defect.

 

Might be worth replacing the gearbox seal too and assume you'll be using new release bearing, circlips etc when you change over mate? If not do it.

 

/QUOTE]

 

 

Cheers Sheefa, yea def will be getting new release bearing , clips etc if they don't come with the new clutch but I will do the seal too ..Rather do as much as I can while the box is out.

 

Available now: Uprated MKIV TT clutches.

 

 

I use the stock, brand new driven plate, as it is correctly

balanced, doesn't judder and will hold all but mega torque

highly modded engines or cars used for drag racing.

I modify a stock brand new cover to give more clamping force.

The reason I tooled up to do these is some of the aftermarket

US clutches I have fitted SEEM to be built from used cover

assemblies with reground friction surfaces, and a stronger

spring. I have had hellish trouble getting these to fully

release, because due to this seemingly thinner cast iron

friction face, the geometry of the clutch goes to pot, and

being a pull type clutch (the hydraulics pull the bearing

away from the engine, rather than the more normal push type)

it is a lot harder to effect a cure.

 

For 455 pounds plus VAT , you get a brand new driven

plate, a brand new modded cover, and a brand new release

bearing. I would rather fit myself so any complaints are down

to me, I see a lot of clutches damaged by people without the right gear

(a ramp and transmission jack, plus correct circlip tools and fitment)

or clutches fitted to patently *uggered flywheels. I will do a supply

only if you feel competent to tackle the job or are using a bona fide garage to

fit the clutch

 

 

Toyota use a dual mass flywheel (the flywheel is in 2 parts, an inner and

outer assembly, damped in the middle) which is now showing signs

of wear causing a lot of rattle when idling or on very light

throttle openings. For God knows what reason they are charging

about £400 + VAT for a new one, they look more like they should be

over 500 to me, but don't say anything :-) The very similar LUK dual

mass flywheel on Maseratis is nearly £1000 + VAT.... So if the flywheels

old enough or abused enough to be scored it should be replaced.

 

Fitting by myself will cost £175 + VAT.

 

Reply privately if interested please. [email protected]

 

Cheers Chris, Will look into yours for sure, shame your located so far from me

Cheers Chris, Will look into yours for sure, shame your located so far from me

There are roads to Shropshire. Some coloured blue to. London to CW in a Supra 2.5hrs. Set off at 5am and you'd be back for supper.

I`m on my second centreforce dual friction and love it, drives like stock and handles all that i throw at it.perfect for bpu or like me 650bhp.