cainhead Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Need some help. Just finished installing my single turbo and trying to start it for the first time. Start motor is turning all okay and when I release the key I can hear the turbo spinning but just won't fire. All air lines are connected and not touched the fuel system as new injectors and ecu will be getting fitted in next two weeks. The 2nd decat is not connected as yet, but not sure that would effect it. Only thing I can think of is the MAF sensor is faulty, it did take a bit of a knock whilst trying to adapt intake pipe to fit. Any suggestions really appreciated as feeling a little gutted after I have really taken my time with this. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Homer Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Hi mate, hope you're well Car spec please - TT engine or NA-T conversion? Auto or manual? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Hi mate, hope you're well Car spec please - TT engine or NA-T conversion? Auto or manual? All good cheers if not a little frustrated with this turbo. Car is a na converted to UKTT manual and the new turbo is Greddy T88 34D Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike2JZ Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 The turbo itself being installed shouldn't be causing an issue, go back to basics and see if you are getting spark and fuel. Does it sound like the engine is trying to fire, or literally just the crank spinning and nothing else? Are you using a standalone ecu? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 The turbo itself being installed shouldn't be causing an issue, go back to basics and see if you are getting spark and fuel. Does it sound like the engine is trying to fire, or literally just the crank spinning and nothing else? Are you using a standalone ecu? Ecu is still standard not changed just yet as injectors and fuel rail is being done altogether in two weeks, so can't think why that would have a problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
berg Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 not touched the fuel system as new injectors and ecu will be getting fitted in next two weeks. Have you touched fuel pump or is it that as it was before too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Haven't unplugged the crank sensor by mistake have you? Plug runs up next to the altenator, has a plastic tag which secures it's wires to the block as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Have you touched fuel pump or is it that as it was before too? No not been anywhere near it. That's what I can't work out nothing to do the fuel system has been touched Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Haven't unplugged the crank sensor by mistake have you? Plug runs up next to the altenator, has a plastic tag which secures it's wires to the block as well. Would it still turn if I had, will maybe run out and check shortly Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 12, 2016 Share Posted June 12, 2016 Would it still turn if I had, will maybe run out and check shortly my bet is crank sensor. it would turn over but would not fire as the ECU does not know where the crank is. As said runs by the alternator. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted June 12, 2016 Author Share Posted June 12, 2016 Well, I guess that's why I'm a member on here, people's knowledge and help is what's makes it worth it. It was the crank sensor not plugged in. Simplest of things sometimes. Hole hearted thank you to all, I now officially have gone single and have a massive smile on my face. If any of you who replied are at the ace cafe meet I owe you a beer. Now to get the new rail injectors and ecu fitted. Going to leave that one to the professionals. One other question you might be able to help with, I have rigged up the wastegate as per figure 1 in the picture and the other vacuum lines as per the fitting instructions. Can anyone see if there would be any issues with this. Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Swampy442 Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 A T88? Do people still use them?! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
T2 MSW Posted June 13, 2016 Share Posted June 13, 2016 Well, I guess that's why I'm a member on here, people's knowledge and help is what's makes it worth it. It was the crank sensor not plugged in. Simplest of things sometimes. Hole hearted thank you to all, I now officially have gone single and have a massive smile on my face. If any of you who replied are at the ace cafe meet I owe you a beer. Now to get the new rail injectors and ecu fitted. Going to leave that one to the professionals. One other question you might be able to help with, I have rigged up the wastegate as per figure 1 in the picture and the other vacuum lines as per the fitting instructions. Can anyone see if there would be any issues with this. Cheers Glad to hear its fixed on the plumbing front I would go with figure 1 as you have done. Simple reasons being Is if there is ever a problem with the boost controller you can simply disconnect the NC connections and leave the top port on the wastegate vent to atmosphere and still run the level of boost you have on the wastegate spring. Ive had this happen at a track day and was happy to just disconnect the controller until I could get it fixed and still enjoy the day at 1.1 bar. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cainhead Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 Glad to hear its fixed on the plumbing front I would go with figure 1 as you have done. Simple reasons being Is if there is ever a problem with the boost controller you can simply disconnect the NC connections and leave the top port on the wastegate vent to atmosphere and still run the level of boost you have on the wastegate spring. Ive had this happen at a track day and was happy to just disconnect the controller until I could get it fixed and still enjoy the day at 1.1 bar. Again thanks for the help and advice Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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