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Buckinghamshire rolling road recommendation


Tsia
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Does anybody have a recommendation for a rolling road in/around Bucks (or even better, Milton Keynes)?

 

Wasn't able to shake an R32 GTST (Pretty much stock) with S362 single setup and worried something is a bit wrong! :(

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Does anybody have a recommendation for a rolling road in/around Bucks (or even better, Milton Keynes)?

 

Wasn't able to shake an R32 GTST (Pretty much stock) with S362 single setup and worried something is a bit wrong! :(

 

Was it not mapped and dyno'd when built- what do you think the HP is and do you have all the necessary supporting mods

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Was it not mapped and dyno'd when built- what do you think the HP is and do you have all the necessary supporting mods

 

We got an estimate from the ECU, but not an actual dyno reading (road map).

 

Yes, it has all of the necessary mods, freshly built, rebuilt head, 800cc SARD injectors, Whifbitz manifold, turbosmart WGs, set to 1.2 bar of boost, there shouldn't be anything slowing it down at all.

 

ECU estimate (if my memory serves correctly) was 474 to the wheels.

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What is the ECU and who mapped it and am a bit baffled why it's only 1.2bar

 

It's a Link G4 Storm that was mapped by Lyndon - we've got some gearbox coolers on there, but it was to preserve the box. Still, even at 1.2 bar, it should've shown the Skyline the tail-lights. It's hard to tell when I don't drive it terribly regularly if it's a bit down on power.

 

Plan was to get the gearbox re-shimmed etc. and dial it up to 1.4 at some point in the future. Still running stock cams, mind, though I wouldn't imagine that'd be causing my issues either. Don't get me wrong, it feels fast, but this just got me a bit worried :)

Edited by Tsia (see edit history)
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Mine was originally running 607 hp and 500 ftlb of torque at 1.6 bar on stock auto box with twin coolers. It's not HP that ruins boxes it's heat and high torque figs but it's torque you need for acceleration. I would of thought you could go up to 1.4 bar.

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Mine was originally running 607 hp and 500 ftlb of torque at 1.6 bar on stock auto box with twin coolers. It's not HP that ruins boxes it's heat and high torque figs but it's torque you need for acceleration. I would of thought you could go up to 1.4 bar.

 

That's quite a bit more than I thought they took. I was planning to take a look over DavidPs autobox guide once I've recovered from the initial build, then go ahead and ask for the boost to be raised.

 

But still, I'd like to get it dyno'd properly and see what it's making :)

Edited by Tsia (see edit history)
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you need to get a proper map done mate a rolling road is just going to tell you what you already know! you have PM.

 

Can't see PM - Inbox may have been full, just cleared it out. I have no idea what it's making currently beyond what the ECU estimated - and I've got full confidence with the gent that mapped it. I have a feeling it may be a spot of boost leak, as I just checked the peak on my gauge and it's showing just below 1 bar, when it's set to 1.2, just didn't want to fire the engine up at this time of night and poke my head around to take a look. :)

 

(Defi gauge, hence me not being 100% confident that it's right.)

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Are you gonna get it re-mapped

 

I need to fire up the engine this evening to see what's up first - my primary concern is that I may have a boost leak at the moment. Like I said, I'm confident with the mapper, but if a re-map is what it needs to get the power down properly, then a re-map it shall have :)

 

It doesn't feel like power ever drops off a cliff, it seems to hold it well, which is why I'm slightly iffy with the boost leak, it just doesn't actually accelerate as fast as it should. I'd ideally like to get an idea of what's up before I give the garage that built it a call, as he's a bit far away and it's unfair to expect any kind of diagnosis over the phone.

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Right, no boost leak confirmed. Went out for a few pulls with the laptop connected and got strong, stable boost. As for the rest of the numbers on the log file, they're largely meaningless to me.

 

Time to get it on a dyno and see where it's letting up. I'm sure the 'oomph' is locked up there somewhere :)

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Did you have any joy getting it anywhere on a dyno ? Hope you get it sorted mate

 

Yeah it's going in to be dyno'd this week, depending on what days I can get off work. I'll post up results once I know.

 

It's odd - it felt like a decent amount of power when I got the car back, but then I had been without it for quite a while. Mechanically, it's smooth as butter. Boost comes on nice and early, holds it well, sounds beautiful... but all of that is no good if it doesn't actually move very fast :D

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It doesn't feel like power ever drops off a cliff, it seems to hold it well, which is why I'm slightly iffy with the boost leak, it just doesn't actually accelerate as fast as it should. I'd ideally like to get an idea of what's up before I give the garage that built it a call, as he's a bit far away and it's unfair to expect any kind of diagnosis over the phone.

 

I'm a lot closer to you than MKA&T. If it's down on power pop over and I'll check it for you. There is a hell of a lot more in there to be had in your setup. You may have just got used to it as it is. It has run long enough without issue now for the wick to be turned up.

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Yeah it's going in to be dyno'd this week, depending on what days I can get off work. I'll post up results once I know.

 

It's odd - it felt like a decent amount of power when I got the car back, but then I had been without it for quite a while. Mechanically, it's smooth as butter. Boost comes on nice and early, holds it well, sounds beautiful... but all of that is no good if it doesn't actually move very fast :D

 

Let me know how you get on as I need mine putting on the rollers for a fine tweak and maybe upping the boost . Any idea who they are using for mapping at Marlins now.

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I'm a lot closer to you than MKA&T. If it's down on power pop over and I'll check it for you. There is a hell of a lot more in there to be had in your setup. You may have just got used to it as it is. It has run long enough without issue now for the wick to be turned up.

 

YHPM :)

 

Let me know how you get on as I need mine putting on the rollers for a fine tweak and maybe upping the boost . Any idea who they are using for mapping at Marlins now.

 

No idea - I wasn't planning on getting it remapped there, just dyno'd. I'm curious what it's making and to see if it's actually 'down' on power, or if it's all in my head (and that Skyline is faster than he's letting on... although there's no reason he'd under-egg the power, I've known him a fair while.)

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Took the car to Marlins to get it dyno'd - thankfully it's not looking like a major issue. My boost is peaking at 0.6 bar (wastegate pressure) and misfiring a bit at high RPMs (they think it's the spark being blown out). Still made a comfortable 388bhp, which is somewhat reassuring considering the lack of boost. AFRs are very rich, but that's to be expected when the car isn't getting as much boost as it thinks it should be getting. Will have a chat to the mapper about taking a look at this and get the plugs checked in the week :)

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The rich AFR may be down to the misfire.

 

Does the Link maintain the direct fire ignition or convert to wasted spark and what plugs you running?

 

0.6bar is very low, didnt you say you were seeing 1.2bar, if so where did you get this figure from?

 

Also, you would run leaner a lower boost not richer, you richen the mixture up as you add more boost but mainly to keep things cool and help prevent det ;)

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The rich AFR may be down to the misfire.

 

Does the Link maintain the direct fire ignition or convert to wasted spark and what plugs you running?

 

0.6bar is very low, didnt you say you were seeing 1.2bar, if so where did you get this figure from?

 

Also, you would run leaner a lower boost not richer, you richen the mixture up as you add more boost but mainly to keep things cool and help prevent det ;)

 

I have no idea how it does the ignition, and I'll need to find out what the plugs are, it's been too long since I got the part list together :)

 

0.6 bar is the wastegate pressure - it just looks like the controller isn't kicking in, as the ECU is set to a 1.2 bar limit. I am getting an odd hissing sound as if air is escaping from the wastegates for about 20 seconds after the engine is switched off, so i'm waiting for it to cool down to make sure a hose hasn't popped off or something. The whole thing was mapped at 1.2 bar, so it'll be fuelling accordingly... only it's only getting 0.6. Oddly, I had run the ECU logging software which had shown a stable 1.2, but now I'm thinking it might just be showing target pressure or something? Really unsure at this point, and I'm not familiar enough with the software to be able to tell.

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