Crank pulley bolt snapped my breaker bar!

Yes you heard correctly.

Before the breaker bar method, I tried using my impact gun on it, rated to 1600nm of breaking impact, you'd think it would have taken it off in no time. Nope, not even a mm of movement. I then used a heat gun to try loosen it up and gave the impact another go, still nothing!

Failing that I've then got the whole engine off the stand and put it on the floor in my garden, locked the crank pulley, got my breaker bar with a 3-4ft pole, and it snapped the front end off it! WTF!

What the hell can I do to get this f***ing thing off?!

Gym.

Last time I have used 39" long 3/4 drive Power/breaker bar from Trident and good quality 22mm impact socket. Trident is cheaper than Snap On / Mac Tools and in my opinion do the job perfectly.

Mine required a 3m scaffolding pole on a breaker bar and heat and the weight of 4 men to shift it, breaking 3 x 22mm impact sockets before it cracked like a rifle shot.

Last time I have used 39" long 3/4 drive Power/breaker bar from Trident and good quality 22mm impact socket. Trident is cheaper than Snap On / Mac Tools and in my opinion do the job perfectly.

My breaker was only a 1/2 drive, but I've never had it fail on any bolt I've opened, my last crank pulley bolt came off with half the force I've been using on this one! I may have to invest in a 3/4 chunky breaker bar.

Mine required a 3m scaffolding pole on a breaker bar and heat and the weight of 4 men to shift it, breaking 3 x 22mm impact sockets before it cracked like a rifle shot.

How much are they bloody torqued by, I thought they were only around 200ft/lbs, but the sounds of it, 2000ft/lbs! What breaker bar do you have? I might need to get the same one !

I tried a Snap-on spring steel 1/2" breaker bar , but it just wound up like a spring, it was my non bendy one that did the trick, can't remember it's Marque?

I tried a Snap-on spring steel 1/2" breaker bar , but it just wound up like a spring, it was my non bendy one that did the trick, can't remember it's Marque?

Any chance you could find for definite tomorrow please? I'm getting a blow torch on it tomorrow, see how that plays out, if doesn't work then another breaker bar is in order.

Frayed knot, it's in the boot of the Supra in the lock-up in the next town.

I wouldn't worry about a label, just buy a non-bendy breaker-bar that tickles your fancy and suits your wallet.

I broke a really cheap ebay jobbie today, shattered the head trying the starter method, gonna actually spend a bit of money on one now! lol

The 3 x 22mm impact sockets that I broke on mine, 2 were Snap-on and the other a top Brand? That emptied the lads tool boxes at the local Mitsubishi Main Dealers workshop and I resorted to popping around the corner to a car bits shop where all he had was a non branded cheapie which I bought in desperation. It amazed us all and did the job, after I went back and bought the last of his stock replacing the ones I had broken.

3/4 or 1 inch sliding T Bar and heavy wall tubing for leverage. Breaker bars are inherently weak due to the forked end. Secret is locking the crank solid, so the torque you apply is undoing the bolt, not winding up give in stuff that's not solid.

A 1 inch impact gun run on the correct ID air line off a big enough regulator will undo it, (or take the head off it....).

3/4 or 1 inch sliding T Bar and heavy wall tubing for leverage. Breaker bars are inherently weak due to the forked end. Secret is locking the crank solid, so the torque you apply is undoing the bolt, not winding up give in stuff that's not solid.

 

A 1 inch impact gun run on the correct ID air line off a big enough regulator will undo it, (or take the head off it....).

Thanks Chris. I think that's the main reason it was the front end that snapped off mine. I have the crank locked solid, as the sumps are now off, rather than just using a locking tool on the pulley.

I will try get my hands on a 3/4-1inch T-Bar to stop the risk of snapping it again, I don't think any 1/2 drive is going to cut it on this one.

Be carefull with heating it too much as seal might melt

You won't need any heat unless some moron has Loctited the bolt in.

I just did mine and I have the proper locking tool and a decent Snap on breaker bar and that was bending on its own I bought a scaffold type pole and that was still a chew to get the bolt out.

As mentioned above never use heat on the crank pulley, you run the risk of seriously damaging the front crank seal. (Not a problem if you're changing it though)

I used a halfords 3/4 breaker bar with a 5ft scaffold bar over it for leverage. Breaker bar held up ok. And as mentioned, if the motor is not in the car the key is to making sure its rock solid stable and the crank is locked solid.

Ive done a few pulleys. but Ellis's one was a bit of a bitch, but the trusty Toyota crank locking tool and Halfrauds professional breaker bar got the job done

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Ive done a few pulleys. but Ellis's one was a bit of a bitch, but the trusty Toyota crank locking tool and Halfrauds professional breaker bar got the job done

I used a halfords 3/4 breaker bar with a 5ft scaffold bar over it for leverage. Breaker bar held up ok. And as mentioned, if the motor is not in the car the key is to making sure its rock solid stable and the crank is locked solid.

Ive done a few pulleys. but Ellis's one was a bit of a bitch, but the trusty Toyota crank locking tool and Halfrauds professional breaker bar got the job done

 

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Ive done a few pulleys. but Ellis's one was a bit of a bitch, but the trusty Toyota crank locking tool and Halfrauds professional breaker bar got the job done

Is this the breaker bar you lot are talking about? Doesn't seem to be too badly priced.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=318447&productId=525171&storeId=10001

Is this the breaker bar you lot are talking about? Doesn't seem to be too badly priced.

 

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductMobileDisplay?catalogId=10151&langId=-1&categoryId=318447&productId=525171&storeId=10001

That's the one yes. Far better made than the ebay crap ones.

I haven't managed to snap it yet anyway!

Decent breaker bar and lock the pulley solid, that's all you should need. Contemplated using one of my 1/2 inch bars but went with a 3/4 instead. They are torqued to 330ft lbs I think

Decent breaker bar and lock the pulley solid, that's all you should need. Contemplated using one of my 1/2 inch bars but went with a 3/4 instead. They are torqued to 330ft lbs I think

 

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Yeah I've ordered one of the Halfords 3/4 drive bars after the recommendations, and if it snaps it also has the lifetime guarantee so an easy replacement . We will see how it goes on the weekend!

Don't forget you also need either a 3/4 inch drive socket or a 3/4" female to 1/2" male adapter. Get an impact adapter if you go that route!

Don't forget you also need either a 3/4 inch drive socket or a 3/4" female to 1/2" male adapter. Get an impact adapter if you go that route!

One step ahead of you Chris, also on order !

Hoorahhhhh, halfords breaker bar the thing was off in no time!