Jump to content
The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Breaking issues


TRD-Rob
 Share

Recommended Posts

Can anyone help ? I've done a j-spec to uk break swop a while back and the pedal seems to have a lot of play :( I've checked the break servo and master cylinder and both seem to be working fine.

 

Only thing that doesn't look right is the piston seems to be a bit far out.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you still have the stock rubber hoses clamp each one off near the caliper in turn. Be careful not to damage the hose, proper brake hose clamps are cheap. See if clamping one in particular brings the pedal back up. That's the caliper that may have air in it. How much pedal travel are you getting and how EXACTLY have you been bleeding the system?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't make sense of that pic, is that the caliper on a really small diameter disc? When you fitted the larger calipers you also fitted the larger discs as well?

 

This is just what was in the kit,are the uk and j-spec two different thickness in disc ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

We have had all for wheels off and bled the breaks starting from furthest away,I start by pumping the peddle a couple of times then I hold pressure on the pedal whilst my mates cracks the bled nipple slightly to release any air,tightens up again once peddle is to the floor.we repeat 4-5 time on each corner.

 

Can you please explain what clapping the hose off will do ?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's what I feared and is incorrect. NEVER have pressure in the system when you open a bleed nipple to do a manual bleed. Open the nipple one turn. have your helper SLOWLY press the pedal RIGHT DOWN to the floor. Have them hold it there whilst you tighten the nipple. have them SLOWLY release the pedal again. Repeat until no air exits. Do all four calipers. be sure to keep the reservoir topped WELL up whilst bleeding.

 

If still there's air in the system try it with the ABS pump jumpered to continually run. I myself have never had to do this, but it's an option.

 

Sometimes levering all the pistons right back into the calipers with the bleed nipple wide open will dislodge trapped air.

 

Finally there's a chance the master cylinder seals and valves have had it. That's a strip, air line blow out, and rebuild with a repair kit job.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I can't make sense of that pic, is that the caliper on a really small diameter disc? When you fitted the larger calipers you also fitted the larger discs as well?

 

You're looking at the reflection of the outer half of the caliper in a pretty uniform & shiny disk with the part that is unbrushed by the pads being the small strip of rust. Rear face of the wheel spokes are to the right of picture.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 months later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue. You might also be interested in our Guidelines, Privacy Policy and Terms of Use.