Fuchs Titan Race Pro S oil

What colour should this be? I bought 10W-50 and it's a very dark red colour, I thought oil was always a golden colour? I bought this as a top up for my current oil which I'm certain is the same (brand and viscosity), but now I'm not so sure as I don't recall the oil being so dark

I bought some of this recently and it was also a red colour. I've never used it before though so I just presumed it was normal?

Its normal yes, ive used this oil for the last 10 years or so and when i recently stripped my engine down it was in great condition inside.

Interesting, I guess I wasn't paying that much attention last time I topped up, although I could have sworn it was golden and clearer

Does the colour vary between viscosity?

I think its because it's ester based oil? I've also been using it for the last year or so!

I think its because it's ester based oil? I've also been using it for the last year or so!

Esters are pretty much all water clear with some diesters having at most a very light brown tinge.

The colour is predominantly from the additive package. The detergents are very dark brown and the overbased additive (carbonates to neutralise by products of combustion) are jet black. These are where the oil colouration comes from and the more additive added to the base oil then the darker the oil will be. Additive packages are supplied by many companies all to meet a specific engine maker or industry specification. So differences are probably arising when an oil company, Fuchs in this instance, switch between approved additive package suppliers.

I'd used the Silkolene (Now Fuchs) Pro S since owning my car in 2004, but recently switched to the Millers Oil. The annoying thing with the dark colour of the Pro S is that its hard to tell the discoloration of the oil, but with the Millers Oil it's your typical light oil colour so easier to check visually when you've done a few thousand miles on it. I've also been told it's a better quality oil, but how true that is I don't know.

What was surprising was the effect a proper engine flush did before putting in the new Millers Oil. Littlenum and I were taken aback at the difference in the smoothness sound of the engine! Was certainly impressive.

How did you do a proper engine flush?

I recently did an oil change on a 139k V8, I dropped the oil out, put in some cheaper stuff with a new filter, ran up to temp, then dropped that out and changed the oil filter again and put the good stuff in.

Oil is now nice and clear

How did you do a proper engine flush?

 

I recently did an oil change on a 139k V8, I dropped the oil out, put in some cheaper stuff with a new filter, ran up to temp, then dropped that out and changed the oil filter again and put the good stuff in.

 

Oil is now nice and clear

With 5 litres of engine flush mate

I was going to do the same as you with cheap oil, but the oil guy recommended the engine flush. Honestly we were very surprised at the result

Which engine flush did you use?

Which engine flush did you use?

I honestly can't remember, the next time we do it I'll take a photo of the bottle for you.

Engine flush was when I was in the oil formulating business is essentially a mix of white spirit and oil. Its important you don't rev an engine or go for a drive with the flush oil as its really thinned down by the white spirit. A couple of minutes on tick over will grab most of the removable varnish and grime. Its good practice to do an engine oil flush afterwards so your final fill will be undiluted engine oil. From memory, the formulation was 30% white spirit in base oil with some anti wear additive. If I was ever going to do a flush on my own car I'd probably go for 20% spirit to engine oil.

It has to be said though, you should never use engine flush unless you have a problem with emulsion, varnish or sludge to get rid of. Flush oil, only if you must and use with extreme care!

Esters are pretty much all water clear with some diesters having at most a very light brown tinge.

 

The colour is predominantly from the additive package. The detergents are very dark brown and the overbased additive (carbonates to neutralise by products of combustion) are jet black. These are where the oil colouration comes from and the more additive added to the base oil then the darker the oil will be. Additive packages are supplied by many companies all to meet a specific engine maker or industry specification. So differences are probably arising when an oil company, Fuchs in this instance, switch between approved additive package suppliers.

Is there any issue mixing the oil for a top up? It is the same brand and type as I used before, I just don't recall it being so dark

Nope - we worry too much

What colour should this be? I bought 10W-50 and it's a very dark red colour, I thought oil was always a golden colour? I bought this as a top up for my current oil which I'm certain is the same (brand and viscosity), but now I'm not so sure as I don't recall the oil being so dark

mine is same, dark red

Is there any issue mixing the oil for a top up? It is the same brand and type as I used before, I just don't recall it being so dark

All oils that carry the same API/SAE OEM specs can be mixed. The only potential issue comes with effects on seals of moving between base oils with diesters tending to swell materials more than mineral oils or PAO based oils. Its highly unlikely you'd ever have a problem but good practice is to top off with the same oil that is in the sump. Easy on a Supra as the engine takes 6 litres so long as you buy 5l at a time there will be 4l available for top up.

Though, I've never even topped up my Supra once in 18 years.

I am not a fan of "flushing oils" good advice from rider. Good petrol such as the Shell V-max keeps the top end clean, even part synth oils look after the bottom end, have friends who have used flushing oils and then suffered burning oil.

My oil post my NA/T conversion is Silkolene. Pro.R.15w-50.ester fully synth, it was darkish golden colour and it stays that colour as i fitted a thermostatic oil cooler which maintains the oil temp at it's optimum working temperature, ( 90C), this is as important as the oil quality. Herbie.