Rusty Supras

In the yard where my unit is located, theres been this Supra parked for a week or so, in for welding (surprisingly) My question is, Ive been around big Toyotas for a while now and they almost never rust, so why would one end up like this?!

definitely live somewhere salty! maybe the owner is the little mermaid

Could of had a bodykit previously and water has accumulated in the recesses

My bet would be a poor fitting body kit causing rubbing.

Wow never seen anything like that on a supra before

Ive seen similar with cars that have been stood for years parked on grass but usually attacks underneath

Tenner says it had Veilside skirts and spats!

The supra does gather dirts in those areas, even worse if you run without wheel liners.

The front wing needs unbolting from underneath and cleaning now and again, likewise the rear areas gather the same dirt/ dust/ mud rusting the rear quarter and vertical seams.

When the car gets wet the gathered dirt gets saturated is in constant contact with the body, and will if never cleaned will probably end up like that I would imagine.

Nice.

Cleaning, treating, underseal with wax oil, additional wax oil coatings are your friends.

The average Joe who just uses a car as a car probably never ever thinks about doing these type of things, and nearly all rely on the annual mot for peace of mind.

As the supra seems to fair well during annual inspections, it could be many years for things to accumulate.

The owner is on here mate, I mentioned it to your bro the other day that I know who it is.

Might be along at some point to shed some light on it.

Personally, I would want to re-shell that car. No doubt there are many areas on the shell that will rot through similarly within a few years.

Body kits, random holes for screws and pop rivets, badly made repairs, the list goes on. If it's seen regular UK winter usage on salted roads, that too won't help. Steel bodied cars rot. But you can do a lot to minimize it, like not nailing on none stock panels that abrade the paint and need holes drilling that have bare edges that soon fester. To me that shell looks uneconomically repairable, at least to a standard that will last.

A lot of Supras will have had sill welding by now and rusty tailgates. Unsurprising when they are close to qualifying as vintage cars.

I have some very minor surface rust on the sill (Front of driver side, rear on passenger and also the front edge of my drive door has it too. No sign of dmaage apart form on the sill where he plastic skirt/trim meets the metal so maybe a stone got trapped and scratched it or something. It's the floorpan you need to worry about though

I have some very minor surface rust on the sill (Front of driver side, rear on passenger and also the front edge of my drive door has it too. No sign of dmaage apart form on the sill where he plastic skirt/trim meets the metal so maybe a stone got trapped and scratched it or something. It's the floorpan you need to worry about though

Would you recommend lifting the carpet and spraying some rust proofer on the inside? Seen that done in a few videos online in older cars.

tenner says it had veilside skirts and spats!

Would you recommend lifting the carpet and spraying some rust proofer on the inside? Seen that done in a few videos online in older cars.

In my experience, the floor pans don't really rust on the inside. It's the sills, arches, lower wings, windscreen & pillars, and the bootlid around the glass, and the radiator crossmemeber that seem to be the main culprits.

I would recommend getting any Supra professionally underseal and cavity waxed.

In my experience, the floor pans don't really rust on the inside. It's the sills, arches, lower wings, windscreen & pillars, and the bootlid around the glass, and the radiator crossmemeber that seem to be the main culprits.

 

I would recommend getting any Supra professionally underseal and cavity waxed.

^^ Inside should be fine unless you've had a leaky window seal for a few years - but it'd most likely be fine even if there's been a damp floor carpet. On my floorpan there's surface rust pretty much on the floorpan just below the rear vents/infront of the rear wheels and on the sill seam too - doesn't help that the sills have been pancaked -_-

Taking it to a bodyshop next month actually to get sorted, going to get him to dry it out, grind off the brown stuff, straight up the sill seams, cure it, dry it some more, treat it, paint it & stonechip it it because the underside is really clean apart from the minor surface stuff so would prefer to preserve how it looks rather than cover it up with waxoyl. He said not to worry too much about the sills just below the doors because it'll take years to become a hole and there's a risk of taking bits off, grinding stuff off and causing more problems with hidden rust. But I'm thinking of getting a full glass out respray done on it perhaps so we shall see

Sitting in some puddle/ soil for a long time? Unless water got in from leaks

my car has been waxoyled every 3 years from new, it has to be done with high pressure on hot day if possible,you have to heat the can in very hot water and also add 20% white spirit to give maximum dispersance.

The tailgate seams, the sills, the bonnet seams, the inside of the doors and inside the wings above the liners, on top of the fuel tank etc,are the key areas, the high pressure creates an oily mist which gets everywhere in the enclosed sections, you fit plugs at various points to inject and other holes to watch the oily mist expel. The car will smell for 2 or 3 weeks, BUT it will never rust,even if you have all the body kits fitted, also when dry waxoyl will not spoil your clothing if you touch it, it will not attack rubber or plastic items. On the exposed high wash areas on the flat underbody etc i use waxoyl underseal which dries hard and will not wash off.

You can change all parts on your car but not the body if it gets "cancer" rust, which occurs on the inside and when you see it break through onto the outside it's too late.

Apologies for dramatysing this but i hate rust and have a waxoyl toddy before i go to bed. Herbie.

i hate rust and have a waxoyl toddy before i go to bed. Herbie.

There are as many against Waxoyl as there are fans of the stuff. Its rigidity is seen as its Achilles heel as it is prone to cracking and then trapping water under a lifting seal. I now prefer to spray tacky grease inhibitors over Waxoyl.

Great thread for the unaware.

Interesting as I am sure everyone wants to protect, what for some is their pride and joys.

I treated and protected mine as soon as I got it, same as i have all of my previous ones.

It took me a good few weeks to do properly ensuring the car was dry stored first, ensuring most if any moisture was eradicated before starting.

I treated any areas that required it, used primer to cover any treated areas, top coated, spray on underseal in difficult to reach places, covered wheel arches, inner wings, all underside, inner and outer sills, rubberised stone chip on lips.

I still got the back end to do under the fuel tank.

I used.

Shutez spray on underseal (spray)

Tetra Shutez stone chip (spray)

Waxoyl underseal with added waxoyl (brush)

I plan to spray thinned waxoyl as a flexible covering layer come summer time, which should finish it off and be easy come top up time.

I have no doubt it won't stop anything that's already got in (that you can't see), but will be extremely effective in combating/ preventing future issues hopefully.

It's hard work and takes a lot of time, but has given me peace of mind.

I don't tend to use my car in wet weather and also dry store it, but if I need to I'm happy in the knowledge I've done some rust prevention.

Nb. I would be interested to hear what other people have done, as I just did my best with research personal experience.

Ultimate job on an ultra rare race Volvo 242 uploading now:

http://www.gatesgarth.com/Kroeber242_Thumbnails/kroeber.html

I would just LOVE to own that car!!

Chemically stripped bare shell, full prime and paint, and re-assemble.

Surface Processing (SPL) in the UK do this with a phospheric chemical dip straight afterwards. Unless you live in Arizona a totally bare metal shell will rust again before you have had your dinner.

http://www.surfaceprocessing.co.uk/technical-process.html

No joy on the first link Chris, but the second one shows how it's done properly.

God knows how much that would cost, but if I were ever building something special from scratch it's got to be worth the investment.

Thanks for the share

I always seem to have trouble with edited links, try this please:

http://www.gatesgarth.com/Kroeber242_Thumbnails/kroeber.html

My experience on waxoyl is based on treating my supra and my merc, every 5 years, from both cars being new 20 years ago, i have no rust, easy time tested proof how well it works. Both cars have always lived out in the open and have been through tons of road salt in all the winters.

It is easy to apply, a couple of hours on a warm day with a good supply of compressed air and a £25, 5 lit tin of the original waxoyl. It is not just oil suspended in a drying wax, there is a chemical effect on steel which lasts for a long time, which stops the oxygen working with the iron in steel, the fe02 is blocked. Oil rigs, farmers, etc have been using this for 50 years or more.

Some other manufacturers try to mimik the original waxoyl, but they cannot buy, time, to prove their worth.

I am not a waxoyl salesman, i just want other members to have the benefit of my experience as i have benefitted from many other member's experience on my NA/T project and other technical problems etc. Herbie.

Practical classics did a comparison of the various waxoyl products, and several outperformed it. However, my local guy charges less than half the amount a regional specialist does that uses POR products. And I helped out, so I know all the heat shield, trays, liners etc were removed, and the chassis cavities were done. I can afford to get it done twice as often as the other products, so I'm happy to keep using it.