Lower boot rubber removal

Anyone got any good tips for removing the lower boot rubbers?

The screws holding the in are welded so I pulled off the rubber which has left a small metal plate and the 2 screws.

I thought maybe mole grips but being as there's not much room to work with and the heads are round would they just slip off? The threads cross head on the screws are s bit rounded anyway seeing as they've even in there since the early 1900's

Any help would be appreciated

People normally stick a soldering iron on tye screw head for a fee seconds. But if you've already rounded it, this may not work. Next stop is either cut a slot in the head, or drill it out.

I used small mole grips. If the screw is already rounded there arent that many options left anyway

I'm wondering if the old hammer and screw driver method using it like a chisel might work to get it spinning

Did mine last year. Us a soldering iron or the gas soldering irons apply heat to get the loctite to break down and then you should be able to unscrew them with pliers or small mole grips. May take a couple of goes as the loctite cools down pretty quick

I'd be careful using a hammer. Maybe you could use a fine saw blade and cut a horizontal line in the screw head if there is enough material. Mole grips should work though.

Did the mole grips, grip alrite on the screw head? They aren't in the best location are they. It's always the quick jobs that end up taking the time haha

The top ones were done in 1 min but the bottom ones are just buggers

I used a pair of pliers and kept the heat on but yeah worked. Just make sure you watch the heat cause you may cause paint damage

Soldering iron for some heat and Junior hacksaw blade to cut/extend one of the Phillips slots to accept a large flat headed screw driver worked for me. Had to really push in and tweak the screws bit by bit, slow and sure is the way, a lack of patience will cost you!

Lol not my strongest suit but it'll have to be to get this sorted I think

Cut the rubber away then pencil torch the bolt to free the thread lock and mole grip off ...... 10 min job.

Do the mole grips get a decent grip on the head though as the plate behind the bolt looks like it could get in the way

I'm sure that comes off with the rubber, it's the way I did it and had no issues.

Found this online showing the backing plate and the screws. With the plate there it doesn't give much room to get something on the screw heads

You MUST, MUST *MUST* heat the screw heads smoking hot with a pencil blow torch, using scrap metal to protect the paint. Only when the Loctite Toyota used for some reason on these is killed will you undo them. Hammers are NOT an appropriate tool. Pull or cut away all the rubber block and use heat BEFORE even putting a screwdriver near them. Use a TOP QUALITY screwdriver that fits perfectly. In your case the later sounds too late, n=but still apply heat. A soldering iron has not got a cat in hell's chance of heating them enough.

Bugger! Sounds like a right pain in the ass for something so simple. The designer must has been blind to make it like this

Ah yes, looking at your picture I remember now, if you've screwed the heads then you may have to Dremmel the lip off the backing plate to get some purchase with the mole grips, they need to be HOT though before they'll come out.

Maybe Dremmel a flat fresh groove in the screw for a BIG flat screwdiver but only attempt to remove when HOT.

Will be a nice job for the weekend

Buy or borrow a pencil blowtorch, cheap as chips on Ebay and they often double as a powerful soldering iron for when you are away from mains power. They are dead easy to get out ONCE VERY HOT!!!

I'm wondering if the old hammer and screw driver method using it like a chisel might work to get it spinning

DO NOT DO THIS the metal it is sat on is very thin and it doesn't take much bashing to push it in and push the wing out on the other side !!!!!

Okey doke, will take note.

I've got a pen blow torch / soldering iron coming tomorrow so hopefully with enough heat they'll come out alrite

DO NOT DO THIS the metal it is sat on is very thin and it doesn't take much bashing to push it in and push the wing out on the other side !!!!!

Thanks to everyone for their assistance. I managed to use the pen blow torch and got the screws out with a bit of force but wouldn't have done it without the guidance provided so thank you

Best £7.99 I have spent (at Bobby Dyas) lately. Got them out in 5 minutes flat with 20 -30 seconds heating.

Thanks also to the rest of the forum for excellent advice!