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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Additional bits while having valve stem seals done.


ripped_fear
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Hi guys.

 

As most of you know Im currently getting my new supra up to scratch and am replacing the cooling system. This was going to happen next year, but a leaky water pump forced me to push this forward.

 

Now next year I want the valve stem seals done as I get a little smoke on start up, being no mechanic I want to do have all the bits that make scene while it has this job done, so what would people advice. Want to future proof the car basically.

 

What parts would people advice? head gasket? ARP head studs? etc etc. Trying to compile a list so I can set a target of what I need to save.

 

Any input welcomed

 

Thanks

 

Jake

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I just got the VSS done because I was installing cams , I would recommend doing Tbelt , valve cover seals , cam seals (two of them, they are cheap and will be coming off too)

 

As an option

Cams

Vernier Pulleys

Breather setup i.e. fitting Dash AN fittings to you valve covers

 

Because you have to strip alot to get at the VSS I did

 

Unorthodox Racing Cam Gears

Cam Seals

Valve Cover Seals

Valve Stem Seals

Outer Cam Valve cover Bolt set SS

Valve Cover Washer Seals X 16

Tomei Poncams 264 Duration

Billet Valve Covers

Billet 3 port Breather tank with -10 Braided hoses

Gates Racing Kevlar TBelt

Billet Timing Belt Tensioner Bracket

TENSIONER ASSY, CHAIN, NO.1

IDLER SUB-ASSY, TIMING BELT, NO.1

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You don't need to remove the head to change the stem seals, and you wouldn't want to anyway, could cause you further problems.

 

Im interested to hear why it can cause further problems if you remove the head?

 

Genuinely

 

I contacted a tuner on here a while ago who told me the complete opposite, they said doing it with the head ON can cause issues if something went wrong and is a risky way to do it, the only way to do it properly is to remove the head.

Thats the reason i removed the head on my last one to do them

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I got mine dont in Sit-u , it is a PITA and the risk is dropping the valve into the combustion chamber resulting in the requirement to take the head off

 

Basically , if it is not broke dont touch it , people have had issues when the seal is disturbed on the block , the head has been in situ over a decade ; but it is most likely down to the mechanic not installing the head correctly again

 

Reason why Owners are deterred from disturbing the block

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Hi Jake

 

When I did the valve stem seals on mine I also did the following

 

Repaced vvti unit

Cam seals

Cam cover seals

Cam cover breather tubes

Spark plugs

Checked valve cam gaps so you made need shims. I was lucky all mine were well in spec

Vvti actuator seal

Replaced all the coil pack connectors and even a coil pack

All the vacuum tubes.

I only have the standard twin set up at BPU so replaced the BOV hoses as well.

 

There is probably other stuff but cant think at the moment. Obviously yours is not VVTI so you wont have to do some of it

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Brilliant guys, these are the lists I wanted :) Thing such as the crank pulley and cam belts, tensioner etc are going to be happening anyway. Im not going the whole hog and doing a complete re-build but if your going into the engine may aswell do the bits while your in there.

 

Thanks guys. Anymore keep it all coming.

 

Would also like to say I wont be doing the job myself im planning to send it to SRD.

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Head off to do it 100 % properly

 

In which case head studs and head gasket may aswell be done too then i guess :)

 

This is the list so far then of parts that seem applicable to mine,

 

Valve Cover Seals

Valve Stem Seals

Timing belt

Timing belt tensioner

Cam seals

Cam cover seals

Cam cover breather tubes

Spark plugs

All the vacuum tubes.

Crank pulley

ARP head studs

Head gasket

Edited by ripped_fear (see edit history)
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I'd get it checked for flatness while its off and fly cut the face

 

:thumbs: Thanks

 

Just go fully built srd stage engine :cool: then single :)

 

I would mate but not got enough money to go that far yet. Plus single will not be happening yet. I have more important things to do with that sort of money for now.

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In which case head studs and head gasket may aswell be done too then i guess :)

 

This is the list so far then of parts that seem applicable to mine,

 

Valve Cover Seals

Valve Stem Seals

Timing belt

Timing belt tensioner

Cam seals

Cam cover seals

Cam cover breather tubes

Spark plugs

All the vacuum tubes.

Crank pulley

ARP head studs

Head gasket

 

 

For how much this will cost in labor you might as well do Srd head refresh as you get most of that in the package and prob be cheaper labor

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Absolutely no need at all to remove the head. There are a few ways it can be done to keep the valves in position whilst removing the spring to access the seal. As mentioned, anything relating to cams and their drive, so cam pulleys if you wanted to, uprated cams, belt and tensioner kit, crank pulley etc. Also an ideal time if you're planning to tidy/paint the belt covers, polish the tensioner, fit shiny pulleys etc.

 

Things like cam cover seals etc are a given, you wouldn't use the old ones anyway.

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If you decide to take the head off.. its the more expensive option anyway but the better one IMO, if you decide to do that, do the other things the others have listed but get the head skimmed to make sure its 100% flat and get the head flowed as well, upon checking the valve seats replace if needed. Use high quality head gaskets (no cheapo ebay jobbies) and head hardware such as ARP etc.

 

The last thing you would want to do it build it back up only to find it needs to come apart again which will cost you more time and money.

 

Remember the car will only be as reliable as the lowest quality part, so buy the best you can afford.

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