View Full Version : My build design - but I know diddly!!!
Hello, firstly, I don't know much about stereo installs, so I'll need some help.
I'm gonna do my own build in place of my rear seats (it was Zoe's idea - now I gotta do it on the cheap as well so it's down to me!!).
1. Is my wiring OK?
Clicky for diagram. (http://homepage.ntlworld.com/tbourner/misc/install.JPG)
2. What kind of gauge wiring and what connectors do I need for each bit? I obviously need phono type on the leads to the amps, and I'm guessing just open wires from the amps to the speakers, dunno about the back of my stereo though.
3. Haven't bought the 4 speakers yet (or a 4Ch amp), what kind of size can I expect to fit in the standard door spaces? Assuming I'll be able to make up a bigger block for them.
4. Gonna be taking my sub out of the box it's in, but how important is the enclosure size it's going into? And how important is material? Rigidity? Air tightness? I think I'd prefer punch than rumble (closed box?), but I'm not that bothered it's only for me so does it effect the sound that much?
5. Lastly, slightly unrelated, gonna be getting some black carpet to put down on the bare metal under the new box, what's the best way to get it stuck down, and bending it into funny shapes? It'll also be used to cover the box but that'll be a bit easier.
Cheers.
superstar dj
05-02-05, 17:29
::stereo installs are great fun ,if your into bdsm! your wiring diagram looks ok,ideally you want your stereo to have low level outputs (phono plug type)to obtain the best sound.you should be able to fit 6"6.5" speakers in both locations the backs are easy the fronts require a touch more work ,just take it slow.tweeters in the dash can be replaced but you will destroy them when oyu take out the old ones! sub box size is important just check your sub manufacturers web site ,sizes etc should be on it. i always use evo stik contact adhesive just do a little at a time though cos once it contacts its a bich to get of again.also a good 5 channel amp would do you nicely rather than 2 seperate ones ,taking up less space.good luck :burp:
2002vvti rz-s tiptronic
Cool, How about gauge of wiring, to save me just buying an amp wiring kit for silly money - I could get some from work, but dunno if it's specialist or not i.e.: multi core or will single do? (I'm guessing multi). What gauge for power to amp/signal to amp/signal to speakers/signal to sub?
Also could I put the HPFs next to my amps (at rear seat back position) for the front tweeters? Or would the cable end up being too long?
If you're taking your rear seats out is there much point having 4 speakers? You may as well have 2 in the front then just amps & subs in the rear IMO. Also be aware that you should change the car from standard 4 seater to 2 seater on the reg document and it will affect your insurance. Can you tell I was going to go this route? :D
Mad Hatter
07-02-05, 12:27
bolt a baby seat over thee amps lol reg it as a 2 + 1/2 seater ...
though considering that its not a permanent change to the vehicle (meaning its easily removed) you don't have to inform the dvla.
Yeah the way I'm doing it is to have 3 bolts holding it down to the seat belt bolt hole underneath, and the 2 side points where the rear of the seat attaches to. So it'll be firm enough but just 3 bolts to remove and swap with the seats if needed.
I'm also going to carpet underneath, over the bare metal so it looks nice when you take the box out!!
Ahh I had a big FG install in mind :)
So did I originally, but that went out the window when I realised how much time I'd need to put in!!
Mad Hatter
07-02-05, 20:54
out of interest bud, just looked at your diag ...
your grn (earth) ... i wouldn't run that all the way back to the battery just make or use an earth point in the boot it will save you alot of time and hassle and it does the same job neatly.
with your door speakers + tweeters why are only the tweeters on hpf ? if you have a sub or two in the system run all the in car speakers through the hpf on the amp .. makes life easier and will not make the car one big sub as the bass from the fronts will respond quicker than the boot IF you can hear it from them at all ... just a thought bud
Mad Hatter
07-02-05, 21:04
when i get a mo i'll pm you with a few optional answers to your questions bud
out of interest bud, just looked at your diag ...
your grn (earth) ... i wouldn't run that all the way back to the battery just make or use an earth point in the boot it will save you alot of time and hassle and it does the same job neatly.
with your door speakers + tweeters why are only the tweeters on hpf ? if you have a sub or two in the system run all the in car speakers through the hpf on the amp .. makes life easier and will not make the car one big sub as the bass from the fronts will respond quicker than the boot IF you can hear it from them at all ... just a thought bud
Yeah I wouldn't have run an earth all that way would just find a suitable bolt or something! I may have a busted amp because it kept switching off in my old car, but I think it could also have been a bad earth as it was worse when it was cold.
As for speakers I may go with the idea of just having the 2 front speakers, that way I can use the high output channels of my 4 channel (busted?) amp for them, and the low OPs bridged for the sub. So I'd only need the HPF on the tweeters right? That's how it was in my old car and sounded OK.
Also does nobody still know what wiring I need for each bit? i.e.: gauge and no. of cores?
I wouldn't run tweeters on a dedicated channel UNLESS you intend going competition level, since you don't need that level of control on the tweeters really... a decent crossover should be fine... use the other 2 channels for the rear...
16 gauge is usually sufficient for speakers...
I personally ran a 0 guage power cable to the back... just so I wouldn't ever have to do it again since it is a bit of a bugger getting it in...put it into a distribution block at the back of the car.
Gav
No I didn't mean a seperate channel, but split the 2 channels I'm using for the front speakers at the amp end, and have long leads up to the speakers in the front doors. (just so I can have snazzy looking HPFs next to the amp!). But would the leads to the tweeters be too long?
On my 4 channel I'll use the other 2 channels for the sub and not bother with rears.
Would look snazzy with the x-over next to the amp yeah... cable length shouldn't be a problem since they are high level outputs..
Gav
OK cheers everyone. It's going well so far but is a very slow process for me because I never have much time to spend on it.
Next question is what's the best way to go through from head unit to boot kinda area? Over the transmission tunnel somewhere or round the sides?
Mad Hatter
09-02-05, 13:52
You wont need to split channels and as the guys say unless your doing a massive install then you really have no need to dedicated channels for the tweeters ...
If you have the tweeters linked to the fronts (as most are if you buy the together), you run both the fronts and rears off the HPF on the amp, the tweeter will only responde to the hz range its designed to so you won't need a second hpf between the fronts and the tweeters, unless you really want to get exact with the speaker ranges.
Ah ok, just use the crossover that comes with the speakers and put it next to the amp for added bling then!! :D
Next question is what's the best way to go through from head unit to boot kinda area? Over the transmission tunnel somewhere or round the sides?
Anyone? :cool:
SupraJames
10-02-05, 13:02
ive run amp power cables along the sides and into the boot, from head unti like RCA and remote straight down the middle under the little storage box and under the back seats, you can see about an inch of cable, but that is easily solved with some spare black carpet and some velco..!!
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