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First ever dyno experience. 3.1 L full BPU


Yarco
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Engine Type - JDM TT6

 

Engine Spec - 3.1 litre, over sized Mahl 86mm pistons and fully forged bottom end. Standard reconditioned head.

 

Turbo - Whifbitz standard twins

 

Fuel Used - Shell V-Power

 

Exhaust - 3" Apexi N1. Full Decat.

 

Transmission - V160

 

ECU - Standard (Apexi FC Power ECU waiting to go in)

 

Mapped By - Clive Atthowe Tuning (power run only)

 

Dyno Used - Dastek

 

Power figure - 393.9 at the fly. 352.4 at the wheels

 

Torque figure - 325.1 lbft

 

Boost Pressure - 1.1 bar

 

I've just had my engine rebuilt by Whifbitz and after running it in for 1100 miles I was advised to get a power run and check. Happy with the results considering I couldn't of picked a worse day to do a power run, 32.6c ambient temperature lol! I will run 1.2 bar when I'm out on the road and can play around with the boost controller.

 

Anyone know what the typical HP difference is from a hot day to a normal day, +/- 30hp say?

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Edited by Yarco (see edit history)
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Engine Type - JDM TT6

 

Engine Spec - 3.1 litre, over sized Mahl 86mm pistons and fully forged bottom end. Standard reconditioned head.

 

Turbo - Whifbitz standard twins

 

Fuel Used - Shell V-Power

 

Exhaust - 3" Apexi N1. Full Decat.

 

Transmission - V160

 

ECU - Standard (Apexi FC Power ECU waiting to go in)

 

Mapped By - Clive Atthowe Tuning (power run only)

 

Dyno Used - Dastek

 

Power figure - 393.9 at the fly. 352.4 at the wheels

 

Torque figure - 325.1 lbft

 

Boost Pressure - 1.1 bar

 

I've just had my engine rebuilt by Whifbitz and after running it in for 1100 miles I was advised to get a power run and check. Happy with the results considering I couldn't of picked a worse day to do a power run, 32.6c ambient temperature lol! I will run 1.2 bar when I'm out on the road and can play around with the boost controller.

 

Anyone know what the typical HP difference is from a hot day to a normal day, +/- 30hp say?

 

I don't know an actual figure, but know that the difference in feel on a really cold morning is really noticeable on mine. Yours, and other BPU graphs show my run to be all over the place. you have nice smooth delivery curve whereas mine is all over the place higher in the rev range. Make a great noise when they are on the rollers don't they.

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I don't know an actual figure, but know that the difference in feel on a really cold morning is really noticeable on mine. Yours, and other BPU graphs show my run to be all over the place. you have nice smooth delivery curve whereas mine is all over the place higher in the rev range. Make a great noise when they are on the rollers don't they.

 

I've only ever seen rolling road tests on YouTube and ye any supra is going to sound nice. My car is particularly loud so expected it to bring the house down. However the place I took it to had one of these special sound proof rooms. It was amazing you couldn't here anything until it got near the red line and I was standing outside the room but only 3 feet from my car, crazy! I was reading my GReddy boost controller manual last night and it says if you set your "start boost" too close to your "target boost" you can get boost spikes resulting in an unstable boost curve. Try lowering you "start boost" level, might smooth out the boost delivery :). My old civic type r suffered a lot with heat soak so I assume on a cooler day with a touch more boost I should achieve an extra 20-30hp I guess.

Edited by Yarco (see edit history)
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I've only ever seen rolling road tests on YouTube and ye any supra is going to sound nice. My car is particularly loud so expected it to bring the house down. However the place I took it to had one of these special sound proof rooms. It was amazing you couldn't here anything until it got near the red line and I was standing outside the room but only 3 feet from my car, crazy! I was reading my GReddy boost controller manual last night and it says if you set your "start boost" too close to your "target boost" you can get boost spikes resulting in an unstable boost curve. Try lowering you "start boost" level, might smooth out the boost delivery :). My old civic typed suffered a lot with heat soak so I assume on a cooler day with a touch more boost I should achieve an extra 20-30hp I guess.

 

My piggy back takes care of the boost on mine and to be honest, the boost was the only stable bit of the runs, take a look at my plots and you can see one of them was power vs boost, so I don't think that's my issue. Pretty sure its a combination of timing map and possibly plugs. Out of interest, what did they charge you for your runs? I paid £78.

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My piggy back takes care of the boost on mine and to be honest, the boost was the only stable bit of the runs, take a look at my plots and you can see one of them was power vs boost, so I don't think that's my issue. Pretty sure its a combination of timing map and possibly plugs. Out of interest, what did they charge you for your runs? I paid £78.

 

Right ok you have a piggy back ECU that sorts your boost and no boost controller? I like being able to adjust boost on the go, especially to check for spikes and boost creep. I love my boost controller, hardly anyone else has it. I paid £66 for a power run, it varies wherever you go, generally around £50 from what I'm led to believe. Well worth it, not just for power figures but to make sure fueling is right and no det ;)

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Right ok you have a piggy back ECU that sorts your boost and no boost controller? I like being able to adjust boost on the go, especially to check for spikes and boost creep. I love my boost controller, hardly anyone else has it. I paid £66 for a power run, it varies wherever you go, generally around £50 from what I'm led to believe. Well worth it, not just for power figures but to make sure fueling is right and no det ;)

Yes my piggy back control a boost solenoid in the same way as a ebc, I have a control that means I can adjust from 0.9 to 1.2 at will. I can adjust other related parameters but via laptop. Yes like you the purpose of the run was to make sure everything was safe.

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Yes my piggy back control a boost solenoid in the same way as a ebc, I have a control that means I can adjust from 0.9 to 1.2 at will. I can adjust other related parameters but via laptop. Yes like you the purpose of the run was to make sure everything was safe.

 

lol I've just posted a thread in "Supra chat" but I've just seen your signature box. Can you tell me if I need a crash helmet when I'm on the strip at Santa Pod? i.e will I exceed 120 mph with the power I have? This is my first drag strip experience too, hence why I had the power run to make sure everything is tickety-boo. ;)

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How come you have not fitted the apexi ecu and had a full map mate? Take it you still have stock injectors,

 

Had to run the engine in with a stock ecu. The apexi unit I have will work better if I chuck in some cams at the same time so I'm waiting to see what comes up in the for sales section.

 

Ye stock injectors for now. :)

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Hi mate depending what size your after I have some sard 650 in a rail with fittings and lines if any good?

 

Pm me your asking price mate. I won't be in position to buy them for a month or maybe two depending on what you want for them. :)

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  • 6 months later...
Guest tonytee325is

image

 

 

 

I know this is something new to the discussion. I want to know if anyone can help with this intake manifold I have put on my 1jz . Since I put it on it spoils so late, 4500/4800 full boost and it just doesn't feel nice.... So I'm putting the original manifold back on...

 

Can anyone help me with this?

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Guest tonytee325is

Previously the car made 260 wkw at 1 bar boost and now 1.2 bar and the intake it makes 320wkw with the 2jz injectors but the drivability isn't there so it makes more power but it's slower

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86mm piston is stock size. You won't get 3.1 displacement, even not with 87mm (which is the biggest you can get).

 

Some Supras do have a 3.1 displacement though, including SteveM's Wangan car and various other high end Supras I've seen in Japan. I can't imagine anyone makes a stroker to gain 0.1 litres capacity, so it must come down to piston design/bore :shrug:

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  • 3 weeks later...
Steve's Wangan has 87mm pistons. That gives 3067cc.

 

I have 86.5mm pistons, which gives 3032cc

 

They are 87mm pistons and Whifbitz and others on this forum said my displacement should be around 3.1. The stock Supra is called a 3litre but it's actually 2997, hence the round up.

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The correction factor is, I believe, on the dyno sheet. 102.4%.. So knock 2.4% off your power figure. Personally I think rolling roads, unless hub dynos, are for fun only, as is claiming 455 BHP on stock twins...

 

 

When I bought my GTS-t Skyline it had at least three different rolling road print outs, different dates at different rolling roads. All were 480 plus BHP. For fun I stuck it on my pal's engine dyno as a another RB engine had just come off and it was all set up. Real BHP? 368.

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