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PHR Street Torque Kit on TT6 JDM


Samurai 20V
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Hi Chaps..

 

Sorry for the long thread. I have been toying with the future of my TT6 BPU in the last few months.

Just some background on my situation

 

- Exchange rate sucks in South Africa

- 95 Pump fuel, ethanol is available and the only reasonable solution to upping octane

- Severe lack of trusted tuners and fabricators.

 

Based on this, my current plan of action is tune the car on eth to extract the most out of the twins.

 

- Haltech Elite ECU (based on a reputable tuners recommendation) & Flex Sensor

- Walbro 450LPH pump

- Bosch 1000cc top feeds with rail & Tomei FPR.

 

Hopefully, this will keep me entertained for a while. For the future, I was considering the PHR Street Torque kit with Precision 6266.

Reasons for choosing this kit:

 

- With exchange rate, cost is better than a HKS T04Z kit out of Japan (I guess the cast manifold has alot to do with this though)

- I don't plan on exceeding 600hp, so a cast manifold is more suited to me, tubular will not be utilised to its full.

- Car usage is street, occasional drag and track use.

- I hear ppl having issues with the HKS cracking.

- Whiftbitz & SRD manifolds are top quality, but with the SA rand vs the GBP, cost is too high..

- PHR quality is deemed to be pretty good, I am looking for a bolt on application as not to have to fabricate.

 

Questions I have which I need help on

 

1. Do I need a ball bearing version or can I settle with journal bearing? With a cast manifold, can I get away with the journal considering spool up.

2. Do I go divided or open housing with what A/R?

3. Do I need the coating offered? I hear heat buildup with cast manifolds is an issue.

4. I have a TRD Single plate clutch, will it hold the potential power from this turbo?

5. If I decided not to do the ethanol setup, will I lose alot of power if I map on 95 only?

 

I would appreciate the help to decide.

 

Thanks in advance.

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Alot of guys here running the 2jz and Haltech Elite ECU/ Platinum Sport 2000 ECU with 95 octane (look up james deane 2jz), Please prepare yourself for Syvecs is the only good ECU out there

 

HKS mainfolds are top quality, enough heat cycles will cause any tubular manifold to crack eventually; a heavy turbo moving around on the manifold will also cause wear and tear , Vband manifolds are supposedly less prone to cracking as opposed to a T4/T6 setup, its all down to bracing, a cast manifold (OEM manifold is cast) will be near indestructible , 6boost do Vband manifolds

 

go divided for spool (Twin Scroll)

 

A/R is all about spool, to simplify it , if you think about trying to suck liquid through a straw, it will take a X amount of time and effort to suck the liquid through but you will soon come to the max volume of liquid you can retrieve, if you go the the other extreme of trying to use a straw 4 times the diameter, it will take more effort and time to suck the liquid through the straw but you will flow a higher volume of liquid , its all about compromise , either you want something responsive but less top end or something less responsive and more top end , the smaller the A/R the smaller the straw, vice versa, remember too small a straw and you will be frustrated, as a bench mark for a fast 2jz street car .82 A/R is a good starting point

 

As for turbo choice I would go with the latest technology

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Alot of guys here running the 2jz and Haltech Elite ECU/ Platinum Sport 2000 ECU with 95 octane (look up james deane 2jz), Please prepare yourself for Syvecs is the only good ECU out there

 

HKS mainfolds are top quality, enough heat cycles will cause any tubular manifold to crack eventually; a heavy turbo moving around on the manifold will also cause wear and tear , Vband manifolds are supposedly less prone to cracking as opposed to a T4/T6 setup, its all down to bracing, a cast manifold (OEM manifold is cast) will be near indestructible , 6boost do Vband manifolds

 

go divided for spool (Twin Scroll)

 

A/R is all about spool, to simplify it , if you think about trying to suck liquid through a straw, it will take a X amount of time and effort to suck the liquid through but you will soon come to the max volume of liquid you can retrieve, if you go the the other extreme of trying to use a straw 4 times the diameter, it will take more effort and time to suck the liquid through the straw but you will flow a higher volume of liquid , its all about compromise , either you want something responsive but less top end or something less responsive and more top end , the smaller the A/R the smaller the straw, vice versa, remember too small a straw and you will be frustrated, as a bench mark for a fast 2jz street car .82 A/R is a good starting point

 

As for turbo choice I would go with the latest technology

 

Thanks for the reply mate..

 

I don't have a mapper for Syvecs nearby to me, so Haltech Elite is next best..

 

I am leaning towards cast as its more than enough for my power goal, and as you say is far more durable.

 

Thanks for the explanation on A/R, simple enough..

 

A 6266 should be sufficient for 600hp, I guess DBB would be in keeping with the times and give a fast street setup..

 

Thanks again..

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Haltech Elite is just as feature rich as the Syvecs for the 2jz, but any modern ECU now is over kill for what a 2JZ needs to run it

 

Motec is still the Bench mark for other manufacturers to play catch up to

 

Go with your what your mapper is comfortable with :) I would also advise a complete new loom , looms in the cars are at coming up to 2 decades old now, due to engine heat, plastic connectors are getting frail and conductivity of wiring might be diminished , worth doing it right if you are going single or at least do ECU and loom before you go single , if budget is tight

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Haltech Elite is just as feature rich as the Syvecs for the 2jz, but any modern ECU now is over kill for what a 2JZ needs to run it

 

Motec is still the Bench mark for other manufacturers to play catch up to

 

Go with your what your mapper is comfortable with :) I would also advise a complete new loom , looms in the cars are at coming up to 2 decades old now, due to engine heat, plastic connectors are getting frail and conductivity of wiring might be diminished , worth doing it right if you are going single or at least do ECU and loom before you go single , if budget is tight

 

The mapper is recommending Haltech for future support and flexibility, the other local options are very primitive..

 

Motec mappers are available, but 600kms away from me.

 

Good idea on the loom, will see if the budget allows it..

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