Help with boot rubbers

After the awesome ellis gifted me his spare boot rubbers I thought I'd tackle them today ! My rubbers were different to the ones ellis gave but then I noticed someone had added some extra padding to stop a previous squeak. I cut off the old rubber to be presented with two almost rounded screws I have neither the tools of know how to get them out now !! How much would a garage charge to get them out and replace ? I'm a bit stuffed as I am worried the surrounding area is going to get damaged in the process as it's a bit tight.

Have you tried Using a Hair dryer on max heat for a few mins to loosen them. If you have all the rubber off try a small pair of mole grips to get them out..

Should only be an hours labour. Then bolts have thread lock on them. I warmed my up with a soldering iron the in screwed them. If you have a set of easy outs (about £15 from half odds) they would do the trick. Just warm the bolts up first

I don't have any unfortunately, this is what they look like.

By the way Mike I believe Ellis car is a facelift and I think the boot rubbers are different on the prefacelift.

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I don't have any unfortunately, this is what they look like.

I had a similar issue with mine. Introduced a hammer to a flathead screwdriver a couple of times, and was able to get enough grip on the bolt to move it.

I had to drill one of mine out, but this needs doing with care

It's the heating bit I'm worried about, knowing my luck I'll bubble the paintwork !! Where's a good place to get a cheap soldering iron ?

just hold the soldering iron on the head of the bolt, it won't affect the paintwork.

mine were in a state like that when i changed some before, what i end up doing was cutting a slot on the screw with a hack saw blade or dremmel and used a slotted screwdriver, or theres tools like this which could work as well http://www.screwfix.com/p/trend-pro-grabit-screw-and-bolt-remover-2-pieces/21391 they drill in and bite into the screw head

just hold the soldering iron on the head of the bolt, it won't affect the paintwork.

I meant the hair dryer looks like I'm going to have to buy a soldering iron ! Will 40 watt one be good enough ?

In the past, I have successfully removed a partially rounded screw by using this stuff:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/mxbon-metal-epoxy-putty-4-minutes-50g-n48dl

Put a good blob of it on an unwanted socket, and press it into the screw. Allow it to harden and then remove the screw with a ratchet.

Soldering worked on first screw got a few turns then the head rounded second screw came out but I now have three rounded screws and no more money ! Just out of curiosity what would driving with no lower rubbers be like ?

Take a hacksaw blade and a flat blade to it

Don't have a hack saw I'll see if I can borrow one

Right got a screw removal kit it has three heads one is 3-5, another 6-10 and final 12-14. What size are the screws on the rubbers ?

Carefully flatten the flange around the edge of the rubber mounting plate under the screws. Use a PENCIL blowtorch with some Heath Robinson heat shielding to get the screw heads smoking hot. This will fully kill the Loctite. Use mini Mole Grips to get the remains out whilst they are still hot. DO NOT *NOT* try to drill the screws and use Easi Out type LH thread things on screws this small. They WILL snap off and leave pot hard metal in the remains of the screws. Leave the heads alone. I have seen home garage attempts to get these out result in half in holes in the rear hatch surround and TIG repairs needed...

Carefully flatten the flange around the edge of the rubber mounting plate under the screws. Use a PENCIL blowtorch with some Heath Robinson heat shielding to get the screw heads smoking hot. This will fully kill the Loctite. Use mini Mole Grips to get the remains out whilst they are still hot. DO NOT *NOT* try to drill the screws and use Easi Out type LH thread things on screws this small. They WILL snap off and leave pot hard metal in the remains of the screws. Leave the heads alone. I have seen home garage attempts to get these out result in half in holes in the rear hatch surround and TIG repairs needed...

Able to fit my car in yet Chris ? Could you do this for me ?

A minute with a small blow torch and the Loctite that is used on the bolts melts and they can then be easily removed. Changing the side rubber stops should only be a five minute job. An eternity if you don't heat the threads though.

A minute with a small blow torch and the Loctite that is used on the bolts melts and they can then be easily removed. Changing the side rubber stops should only be a five minute job. An eternity if you don't heat the threads though.

Indeed, indeed, indeed. Quite why Toyota Loctited the damned things I'll never know.