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The mkiv Supra Owners Club

Camber Adjustment


lewis hill
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Hi lads im trying to get some negative camber but the stock arms dont seem to want to give me anything. I have read they can give you up to -3 degree? Anyone know how to do this? Ive had my supra for 3 weeks now but as soon as i get the wheel on i'll be putting a post on new members cars :)

 

Thanks in advance :)

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Find you nearest 4 wheel lazer alignment shop, http://www.wheels-inmotion.co.uk

 

Yeah i went to one but from what we could see it only really changed the toe, the camber barely moved but ive read you can get -3 so wondering if there is a special way to do it as you can use both arms to change toe so not sure how to do camber. I know you cant do one without the other.

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Hi lads im trying to get some negative camber but the stock arms dont seem to want to give me anything. I have read they can give you up to -3 degree? Anyone know how to do this? Ive had my supra for 3 weeks now but as soon as i get the wheel on i'll be putting a post on new members cars :)

 

Thanks in advance :)

 

 

Front or rear? Presumably front! The stock adjusters won't give 3 degrees unless the car is so low as to be on the bump stops, with a chronic roll centre height and chronic camber change in bump and roll. The correct way to achieve the figures you are after is with a combination of slightly longer bottom arms and slightly shorter top arms, like NISMO supply for Skylines for track usage. Or fabricate some.

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Front or rear? Presumably front! The stock adjusters won't give 3 degrees unless the car is so low as to be on the bump stops, with a chronic roll centre height and chronic camber change in bump and roll. The correct way to achieve the figures you are after is with a combination of slightly longer bottom arms and slightly shorter top arms, like NISMO supply for Skylines for track usage. Or fabricate some.

 

Oh sorry I meant to say rear camber! Okay well I can't seem to find anything out there that isn't £700-1000 lol I work for a steel firm so could maybe fabricate something. I'm guessing you can't really touch the oem parts? Think I remember reading they are cast? I did try moving top and rear arm but camber didn't really change much but the toe did move quite a lot.

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Whilst it's sod all to do with me professional curiosity makes me ask why the hell you would want to try and get 3 degress camber on the rear....? :) *PLEASE* don't say it's to make the top of the tyre clear the arch, I am depressed enough today!

 

Ahhhahaha. poss best you turn a blind eye to this thread Chris :D

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When we were setting my car up we easily got to 2 degrees on the rear, that was on the Eibach

pro sport lowering springs 30 mm front 25 mm rear

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

Whilst it's sod all to do with me professional curiosity makes me ask why the hell you would want to try and get 3 degress camber on the rear....? :) *PLEASE* don't say it's to make the top of the tyre clear the arch, I am depressed enough today!

 

Run forest run :D

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I never cease to be amazed at the ingenuity used to wreck a well handling car in the interest of "style" or that dreadful Americanism "stance".... 3 degrees of rear camber will make the thing all but un-drivable, and assuredly dangerous, especially in the wet, plus inner edge tyre wear will be horrendous.

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Haha well I had -4 and -5 camber on rear of my 350z and it wasn't even that bad to be honest. Still put power down and handled pretty good in wet conditions. Well I've lowered it on be coilovers and tried to fit my 350z wheels on the supra but it stuck out by 50mm :D so probably going to put 4" dishes and a bit of camber. I couldn't seem to get much but maybe I should lower it a lot more then try again, I had it lowered maybe 40mm over stock and could only get the toe to move.

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When we were setting my car up we easily got to 2 degrees on the rear, that was on the Eibach

pro sport lowering springs 30 mm front 25 mm rear

 

- - - Updated - - -

 

 

 

Run forest run :D

 

 

How low was you when you got -3? Just wondering if sitting too high is not helping as i know it cambers anyway as you lower it

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Told you to look away Chris :scare:

 

-4 degrees on a 350Z and you recon it handled well?!?! Id love to see that up against my brothers 350Z which is seriously well setup and even I have been impressed by the way that handles on track.

 

Well that's completely different if we're comparing it to a car for the track lol I haven't and won't rag my cars round a track, I meant around the streets it handled well when cornering and that. Obviously won't be anywhere near as good as perfect set up but still didn't spin out on me or anything. Seemed to hold the road quite well I thought :)

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like I said your camber bolts are seized pfft

 

Haha well I'm trying to get as much of an aggressive set up as possible. The bigger the dish the better! I don't really see the point in some of these custom ccw's with like 1-2" dish. I was at a shop that does tracking yesterday and their machine told you where to change camber and toe. The bolts were not rusted so easy to undo, put them to max settings. We could only really change the toe. Unless the machine is telling the wrong info.

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Prob best taking to to somewhere that knows what they are doing then, rather than being instructed what to undo and move. The lasers or camera system should really only be used to validate the settings that are being input to the car.

 

I believe Wheels in Motion has already been suggested in this thread. They are prob the best guys for the job in your area.

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