teddan Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 I am going to do the first start up of my new built engine. I will refill oil direct over the cams, remove oil feed line for the turbo. Then crank the engine until I have get oil pressure and oil from the turbo feed line. How do you do it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 That's exactly how I did it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ibby Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Time stamp video! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TBDevelopments Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Pull efi fuse. Crank engine until you get pressure. Continue for another 30seconds to prime. Then fire it up and hold at 2500rpm for 30mins. Get someone contantly looking for leaks. Let it cool down completely. Then 50 road miles and drop the oil Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 8, 2015 Share Posted February 8, 2015 Make absolutely sure there's no pre load on the clutch release bearing, take the Getrag bellhousing covers off and check the release bearing can be pushed easily away from the clutch fingers with a screwdriver or similar. This assumes you have a push type clutch. I prefer to get initial oil pressure with the plugs out. Less starter motor strain. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teddan Posted February 8, 2015 Author Share Posted February 8, 2015 I am running a rps triple carbon disc. I will check to make sure there is no load from the clutch Thanks tim for the Start up procedure. Soon time for start up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teddan Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 how long time does it take before the oil should show up? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 30 seconds to a minute of starter churning with the plugs out, but give the starter a rest and time to cool if it takes a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teddan Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 thanks chris! I have some problem with the clutch. I cant move the realese bearing.... and I don't understand how it can be sssablled wrong. How can I adjust it? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 I need more info than "can't move it". How are you trying to move it? Is it a pull or push clutch? Is there free play at the pedal (can you push it a bit with no effort before it goes hard)? I am not familiar with that clutch, send a link to the assembly instructions if you like. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teddan Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Thanks Chris for helping out here!!! I tried to pull the release bearing with help of a screwdriver in the same direction as it will go when I puch the clutch. I can move ot the other direction easily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 What happens when you press the pedal? You probably won't be able to lever the bearing in its thrust direction hard enough, and I don't advise you to even try doing that. So long as it will come away from the pressue plate fingers easily, that's all you should attempt to do. Use the pedal and the hydraulics to move it into the clutch fingers! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teddan Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 When I press the pedal it seems to be ok. First I have a gap of approx 10mm before it will became harder to push down. It seems to be ok. I think as was just thinking wrong here.. I did a picture. green arrow=easily to push with my hand, Red= not possible to push with the screwdriver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 That seems fine. The force in the red arrow's direction will be severe, in order to depress the clutch diaphragm fingers, you'd need a big bar in there, don't try it, you may bend or break something. Put it in gear, get someone to depress the clutch pedal fully, and check you can tur the prop, with both rear wheels off the ground. use normal safe working practices if getting under the car, a friend of mine died last November, just around the corner from me, by not taking proper care and a car slipped and fell on him. Very nasty! Made me re think some of the habits I had got into, I can tell you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teddan Posted February 11, 2015 Author Share Posted February 11, 2015 Sorry to hear Chris! Thanks so far for the help. I really appriceate that! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 11, 2015 Share Posted February 11, 2015 No worries, anyone from Volvo land can't be all bad Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teddan Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 No worries, anyone from Volvo land can't be all bad Damn, those volvos are like a plague in this country. I only seen them in my mirrors Could it be possible to pressure the engine with oil from turbo oil feeding hose? I know that you can do it from the oil pressure sensor hole in the engine block. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Wilson Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Yes, there are commercial pre oilers available, or you can cobble one up with a brake bleeder set up driven from air in a spare wheel or a compressor. Any more digs at Volvos and I'll start charging for info I have run them as my daily driver for 35 years. By the time the cops have rubbed their eyes and thought "That can't be some old geezer in a Volvo hanging the arse out, it must be diesel on the road", I'm gone.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TheTurtleshead Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 By the time the cops have rubbed their eyes and thought "That can't be some old geezer in a Volvo hanging the arse out, it must be diesel on the road", I'm gone.... Excellent! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teddan Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 Engines started had a to high oil pressure.. around 7,5 bar. I will add a another pressure sensor to see if it show the same. Otherwise there where no problems. Thanks guys! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Engines started had a to high oil pressure.. around 7,5 bar. I will add a another pressure sensor to see if it show the same. Otherwise there where no problems. Thanks guys! I'm seeing the same for a cold start. that's not high bud. Or do you mean once warmed? I'll see over 100PSI, then it'll drop after 5 minutes or so. Settles out around 30psi. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bignum Posted February 12, 2015 Share Posted February 12, 2015 Engines started had a to high oil pressure.. around 7,5 bar. I will add a another pressure sensor to see if it show the same. Otherwise there where no problems. Thanks guys! That sound about right, especially on a newly built engine and cold oil, what sort of weather are you having over there atm? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
teddan Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Had 7,5 bar when the engine was cold and running Millers competetion mineral running in oil, 10w40.. My oil gauge was pushing the bottom of it's scale..that made me a little bit nervous. tempereture is about -1 degree and snowing.. crap! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scott Posted February 13, 2015 Share Posted February 13, 2015 Had 7,5 bar when the engine was cold and running Millers competetion mineral running in oil, 10w40.. My oil gauge was pushing the bottom of it's scale..that made me a little bit nervous. tempereture is about -1 degree and snowing.. crap! That's spot on, don't worry about that. Get it warmed up and you'll soon see it fall Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.